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Home » Articles » A hundred styles of women's dresses

The ensemble of the free jacket, skirt or pinafore with a blouse


The ensemble of half-wool fabric, lining and blouse of colourful fabric (sizes 46 - 52). In the first variant (skirt with blouse and jacket) blouse from the same fabric as the lining in the jacket. In the second variant (sundress with a blouse and jacket) blouse to match the lining. Stand-up collar with borders, cardigan with a carved line from the shoulder to the pocket. Hip jacket without side seams. In pockets sewn into the flaps, turning back. Vtachnoy sleeve, long. The skirt is straight, with soft Darts.

Blouse with set-in sleeves, trehchetvertki. Front cutout is closed, from the shoulder soft folds, zipper back on Rurikovich hinges. Sundress one-piece with scoop neck and leaflets (Fig. 341, a). 

Drawing style lines of the jacket on the pattern (Fig. 342) 

Style was developed on the pattern of the basic drawing dresses. 

 Backrest and shelf. Patterns of the back and shelves to fold, combining the depth of the armhole and the side sections. To free fit for jacket to give 6 - 7 cm: 48 + 6 = 54 cm Therefore, the stacked pattern on the chest should be equal to 54 cm This feature can be performed if the semicircle of the hips does not exceed 50 - 52 cm If taken the measure of the semicircle of the hips greater than the width of the folded pattern, the pattern shelf cut from the hem to the end of the shoulder tuck and push when cutting to the desired width, i.e. to increase the free fit at the hips. Length of jacket 75 cm

To build a collar from the depth of the neck down to postpone 6 see Point 6 to connect the top of the neck continuing the line to the width of the cut - Rostock plus 1 - 1.5 cm, i.e., 8 - 9 see point 8 and 9 at a right angle to postpone the width of the collar (5 - 6cm). From the top of the neck to the right to defer 12 - 14 cm (unfastened part of the collar). Point 5 - 6, 12 - 14 connect the line to split in half and the dividing point down to postpone 2 see Point 5 - 6, 2, 12 and 14 to connect a smooth line. Entry of fasteners from the point 6 to the right to defer 4 seePoint 12 - 14, 4 connect, continuing a line parallel to the middle shelf to the bottom. From the end of the shoulder tuck down a straight below the waist line on the 8 9 see point 8 - 9 down to postpone the width of the valve pocket, i.e. 6 cm, and the left the length of it (20 - 25 cm). From point 6 to a line parallel to the top. At the end of the valve to draw the Cape as shown in Fig. 342. Then, from the width of the valve, i.e. from point 6 down to postpone the length of the burlap pocket (6 cm) and draw a line parallel to the top. Segment from 8 - 9 up to the side of the slice is a line of entry into the pocket.

Pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines.
 


Obtaining the modified pattern and the cut of the jacket (Fig. 343) 

caused to the lines On the pattern to cut the barrel to line the entrance to the pocket. 

 Backrest and shelf (Fig. 343, a). When the width of the fabric 130 - 140 cm in the middle of the pattern of the back to put to bend the common thread. 

 The flank (Fig. 343, b) carve out together with the burlap pocket. When cutting between a back and a shelf to put the pattern of valves (item 3). 

 Slot to the sleeve (Fig. 343,). From the bottom of the sleeves through the elbow up to the length of the delay slots (12 cm), and from the point 12 to the right widths for 3 - 4 see the Lining to cut out a basic pattern with tselnokrajnimi collar at the escape of the collar and the side less than 1.5 - 2 cm sleeve Lining to carve out the top part 1.5 - 2 cm for binding long sleeves, and hem - 2 - 3, see

the Tailoring of the jacket 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back and forepart cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns.

3. Tack the facing to the entrance of the pocket, folded it and the product inside out, equalizing the slices. To pristroit the facing in the corners to make the notch, bend it inside out, straighten the seam, priotity. To the facing to pritchet burlap pocket. 

4. Tack and pritchet side by raised lines on the inner seam. Press the seam to the middle of the shelves. 

5. Tack the gasket to the valve. To oblachat loop, pin, cross stitches, priotity, sew the lining fabric to match the product of concealed stitches (Fig. 343, d).

6. Tack the relief valve to the seam, enclosing the front of the valve to the front of the unit, and to fasten the valve on the entrance line to the pocket. 

7. In the back from the shoulder cut of the armhole to collect in the blades on a string suture needle over the chain, pulling slightly, and cotuit (Fig. 343, a). Tack the gasket. 

8. Sew lower collar in the middle, the seam resuturing. Baste and sew the shoulder seams, simultaneously vracheva lower collar in Rostock.

9. Sew upper collar in the middle, the seam resuturing and tack to the product, Posiva in the corners, then pricecat from the products, seam resuturing. Remove the collar on the front side, straightening the seam, releasing the chute to escape from the top of the collar and the shelf from the product by 0.2 - 0.3 cm to Cover the bottom of the collar, podborta, the bottom of the product to be removed with a wetted pad.

10. Baste and sew front seam of sleeves and resuturing. Tack the gasket to the sleeve (Fig. 343, in) (strip can be cut out of calico, cotton, court of the transverse filaments of a width equal to the width of the sleeves on the bottom, and a length equal to the length of the slots, i.e. 12 cm) so that the edge strip held above the bottom of the sleeves is 0.3 - 0.4 cm Upper edge of the strip to sew a secret cross stitches. To cover up sleeve hem. Baste and sew elbow seam of sleeve, prepositive the top half of the sleeve at the elbow, at the same time grind down the slot of the sleeve.When smachivanie elbow seam, align the edges of the bottom of the sleeves. Elbow seam resaturate, then press the slot in the side of the upper half of the sleeve. Priotity hem sleeves, hemmed edges slots manual stitches.

11. Sew the front and elbow seam of sleeve lining, equating sections, and to press it towards the upper half. Remove the top sleeve inside out and attach the elbow seam of the lining sleeves to the elbow sleeves top seam, from the armhole down to 8 - 10cm and up at 8 - 10 cm Surplus lining to fix to the outside seam, slightly propositiva. Then remove the sleeve on the front side, straighten the lining inside the sleeves, prometti at the top and bottom edges, step back 2 - 3 cm.Bend the cut sleeves on the bottom, not pulling along the length of the lining, and to sew hidden stitches from the elbow joint. To iron the sleeve.

10. Sew details of lining the same sequence as the jacket. To put the lining on the mannequin or figure wrong side up, then put on the jacket, to spread the lining and pin. Tack the lining at the back, armhole, neckline, side, sweep hem to the product, pulling it, and sew hidden stitches priotity.

11. Assemble the top part of the sleeve on two lines, votati in the armhole for the sleeve, starting from the front seam to vacate from the elbow joint. Before setting sleeves sucurity fit in the top part. Bend the cut lining at the top part of the sleeves and inside hem, propositiva surplus. To iron the jacket. 

Drawing style lines of the dress pattern (Fig. 344) 

Style was developed on the pattern of the basic drawing dresses. 

 The front panel. To move the shoulder Darts in the side cut to the depth of the armholes to the waist line to divide into three parts and the upper point of division to connect with the end of the shoulder tuck.

From the waist line on the first line tuck down delay 8 - 9cm, and side cut - 10 cm, plotting points to connect. From the lines to delay the width of the leaves, i.e. 5 cm, and draw a line parallel to the top.
 


Obtaining the modified pattern and the cut of the sundress (Fig. 345) 

 Back panel to make the pattern the main dress, increasing the cut sprout cut at the shoulder and mid-back of 8 cm and the cut of the armhole by 1 cm the Middle of the pattern to put to sgio tissue common thread. To sprout to otkroite obtachku for the processing of 3 cm wide and 

the seam at the shoulder to give a slice 2 cm, side cut 3 cm at the neck of the sprout 0.5 cm 

 Front panel (Fig. 345). In the lines to make the undercut from the side of the cut by the end of the shoulder tuck, not dorezaya 0.5 cm Tuck to close, whereby the opening of the new tuck on the side cut. To increase the width of the neck at the shoulder cut at 8 cm, in the middle of the front for 10 - 12 see Draw the neckline by connecting the dots 8, 10 - 12. 

Cut-out openings to increase by 1 cm For processing armholes and neck to otkroite piping 3 cm wide and

to Carve out the leaves on a 4 - 5 cm longer than the pattern and twice the width plus 1cm for the seam. 

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 345. 

Sewing sundress

1. To celebrate the middle of the front and rear panels of the cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. Baste and sew Darts on front and back panels of the sundress. 

4. To process the leaf. 

5. Baste and sew the shoulder and side seams, resuturing.

6. Sew the ends of obcutek on the shoulder. Tack the facing to the neckline, folded it and the product inside out, to equalize the slices to pricecat. Fold the facing towards the wrong side, straighten the seam, releasing the roll from the main part by 0.1 - 0.2, see Second section of piping to stitch on the machine and sew a sundress concealed stitches.

7. Sew the ends of obcutek in the shoulder and side seams, tack and pricecat the facing to the armhole, adjusting the slices. Fold the facing inside out, straighten the seam, releasing the roll from the main part. The second section of piping to stitch on the machine and to sew hidden stitches. 

8. To hem the bottom, to iron. 

Drawing style lines on the pattern and cutting the tops (Fig. 346) 

 Back to carve out the pattern of the basic drawing blouses. The middle of the pattern to put the fold of the fabric at common thread. The seam at the shoulder to give a cut of 1.5 - 2 cm, lateral - 2 - 3 cm to Lengthen the back of the waist line on the side and cut the middle of the backrest at 15 - 16 cm For the armhole plus 1 cm, at 0.5 cm sprout 

 Shelf (Fig. 346, a). The fabric is folded in half face inside, peregnul it on the bias yarn (a scarf). To bend the fabric to put the middle of the pattern. At neckline to give an allowance of 5 cm 

Allowance for seams and supplies shown in Fig. 346, and. 

Tailoring blouse 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back and forepart cushioning seam.

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. To prepare the for loops rulik, cut it to size loops (3.5 - 4 cm). On the back to the left slit of the clasp on the front side to tack and fix the hinges, equating edging edge loops slit of the clasp (Fig. 346, b). 

4. Sew the ends of obrazek. Tack and pritchet them to sprout and neckline zipper. Fold the facing towards the inside, straightening the hinges and sweep processed the clasp.

5. To assemble the Assembly at the shoulder cut shelves or for fitting to lay soft folds. Throat to handle the allowance given at the nest (5 cm). Baste and sew the shoulder seams. The ends of obcutek Rostock secure hand stitches. 

6. Sew the side seams. 

7. Sew sleeves, metati and vacate the sleeve in the armhole. Hem bottom of sleeves podkralas the facing. Hemming the bottom of jeans to iron.



Category: A hundred styles of women's dresses | Added by: 20.10.2017
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