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Home » Articles » A hundred styles of women's dresses

The original dress is cut with a draped figure podraza

Dress (Fig. 73) is made of a plain light fabric (sizes 46 - 52). The bodice dips in front, below the waist line notched undercut. Instead of darting at bodice and skirt laid in soft folds. Back telekrona with a seam in the middle, in which verboten to the waist lock "lightning". 


The sleeve dresses one-piece, neck straight ("boat"). This dress is good to wear a scarf. 


The fabric consumption for a size 48 dress 2 metres in width 140 cm If the fabric is narrow, then the middle of the front skirt will have a seam. 


Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 74)


The style developed at the pattern drawing on the basis of tselnokrajnimi sleeve without a gusset. 


 3аднее panel (Fig. 74, a). Rostock to expand at the shoulder cut into 4 cm, and the depth of sprout to increase 8 cm to Make the cut, as shown in Fig. 74. 


 The front panel (Fig. 74 b). From the depths of the neck to defer up 5 - 6 cm from the top of the neck left shoulder cut 4, see Points 4, 5 and 6 to connect a smooth line. Waist from the middle of the front cloth to defer to the left 6 - 7 cm down 8 cm - 10 cm From a point 8 - 10 delay to left 7 - 8, see plotting points connect the straight lines. The length of the Cape in the middle of the front should be 4 see Wireline tuck to move to shaped line, i.e. from point 6 to 7 to postpone left 4 cm, and make a tuck. From the end of the pulley-block of the tuck to cause the cutting line of the pattern to the end of the shoulder tuck.From the end of the pulley-block tuck on the shelf down to defer 5 see Point 5 to connect the dotted line with the reference point of the width of the shoulder. A second line of tackle Darts on the skirt divided into three parts, a lateral cut from the waist to the hips split in half. Plotting points to connect.


The lower part of podreza and line the bottom of the skirt is divided into three parts, and the resulting points connect with a straight line. 


The parts are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines.


Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 75) 


 Back panel (Fig. 75, a) to find without side seams along with a front panel of the skirt. 


 Shelf (Fig. 75, b). From the second line of the tuck at the waist and shaped to the undercut shelf to cut (Fig. 75, b). For the formation of soft folds for applying lines to make a slit pattern to the end of the shoulder Darts and to the point of the shoulder, not dorezaya by 0.5 cm Shoulder tuck to close, whereby the opening of the new tuck into notched undercut. The pattern for the cut to take away the 3 - 4 cm When cutting the middle of the shelves (part 1) to put to the bend of the fabric. On the skirt make the cut pattern from figure podraza in the side cut and bottom line, not dorezaya 0.5 cm.


Designed for cutting of fabric folded double the grain lines face inward. From the fold of the fabric the middle of the front cloth of the skirt (Fig. 75, a) to push the top 2 cm for the formation of soft folds, and then by following the lines of the cut pattern to take 3 cm Lateral cut of the rear cloth of the dress (Fig. 75, a, item 3) to connect with a side edge front cloth skirts (item 2) by aligning reference points on the hip line. The middle of the back of the cloth will have an oblique direction threads of the fabric.After connection of the side sections (from the bottom to the checkpoint) in two subsequent sections (part 2) pattern to take so that the side sections of the skirt parts 2 and 3 from the reference point up to the waist in contact (Fig. 75, a). The depth of the folds will be about 5 - 6 cm.


The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 75. 


 Note. When cutting dresses on carved shaped lines recommended allowance of fabric on the seams to increase.
 


Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back and shelves, the waist seam cushioning. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns. 

3. On the back sweep, and sew Darts and a seam in the middle of the back. 

4. For applying lines of the bodice and skirt to lay soft folds. 

5. To connect the bodice (detail 1) with a skirt (item 2) through podraza waist. 

6. Baste shoulder seams, making the fit on the shoulder backless. 

7. Baste the bottom seam of sleeve and side seam, pre-slightly pulling the sleeve under the armhole, and make a fitting.

8. On the fitting, adjust the shoulder and side seams line Pedraza and width fittings. Due to the allowance of cloth given during cutting, the width and length fittings can be changed. To clarify the position and depth of the soft folds on the bodice and skirt. The excess fabric across the width of the product to take in the carved line. 

9. After trying on all the changes to move from the right side of the product on the left.

10. Cut the scalloped edge of the bodice podraza (item 1) caused the line to bend inward and prometti, impose on the front side of the skirt (part 2), combining the traps and checkpoints, and connect with her slanted stitches over the edge, picking up on the needle in the crook of part 1, the two lines. First remove basting and sew from the inside by stitches of part 2 (Fig. 75). 

11. Sew shoulder seams in the shelf seam stitching to press in the back side. 

12. Sew the bottom seams of the sleeves, pulling the fabric under the armhole. 

13. Sew the side seams on the shelf, the seams of the stitching to press in the direction of the shelves.

14. To vacate "lightning". The seam in the middle of the back to the length of "lightning" resuturing. One side of the seam allowance cut to mid-back. The underneath of the product to make a face "zipper" so that means it was grinding against the seam and tack with a little tension, "lightning". 

On the edge of the clasp to lay the finishing line of the desired width. Seam stitching for a length of "lightning" to strut, which grinds rare stitching.

15. Treating neck cross facing. Sew piping Rostock and the neck at the shoulder seams, stitch resuturing. Tack the facing face to the front of the unit, equating sections, and pritchet at neckline seam with the width of 0.5 cm Seam primaqiune to resaturate. Fold the facing towards the back to release the roll from the side products by 0.1 - 0.2 cm, sweeping up and priotity. The second section of piping to bend towards the inside by 0.5 cm and stitch, departing from the fold of 0.2 cm 

to sew the Facing to the canvas zip and attach to the product after 5 - 6 cm.

16. To handle the bottom of the sleeves podkralas the facing. 

17. Hem the bottom of the dress and ironed.



Category: A hundred styles of women's dresses | Added by: 20.10.2017
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