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Home » Articles » A hundred styles of women's dresses

Tselnokrajnimi dress with draped collar

Dress of artificial silk, taffeta, brands, reps, etc. (sizes 46 - 52), cutting above the waist line bodice with double-breasted closure. 

Chetyrehchastnaya skirt, flared from the Darts on the waist line in soft pleats. 

Sleeve one-piece, short with gusset. 

Collar large, one-piece with softly falling folds. 

A dress of this style it is recommended that high women. 

On the graceful figure it is possible to dress with petticoat. 


Drawing style lines on the pattern (Fig. 112) 

the Style developed by the pattern drawing tselnokrajnimi bodice with attached short sleeve and gusset. 


 The rear panel (Fig. 112, a). One-piece collar you can slightly lag. It is necessary to increase the width of the cut sprout at the shoulder cut at 2 cm From the waist line in the middle of the back and side cut to defer up to 5 - 6 see Point 5 - b to connect. Tuck on the waist line divide into two. To do this, from the middle of the back of the cloth at the waist line the right to postpone 6 see the depth of the Darts 2 cm Distance between the recesses 6, see

For rascles wedges chetyrehstennoy skirts from the end of the tucks to apply cut lines to the bottom of the skirt and at the waist, not reaching the lateral cut and the middle of the back, to postpone 0.5 cm of the Bottom of the skirt from the side of the cut to 5 cm raskleit on 


 the Front panel (Fig. 112, b). For the gap of the collar to the left at the shoulder slice from the top of the neck to postpone 2 see to build a collar, you need to draw a line from the neckline through the point 2, continuing it to the width of the cut of the Rostock plus 1 - 1.5 cm, i.e. 10 cm. From point 10 the right to defer 12 - 15 cm, while from point 2 the width of the escape of the collar 15 - 18, see Points 15 - 18, 12 - 15 connect, continuing the line by 2 cm, the resulting point is connected to point 10. 


Traveling tuck to split into two, with a depth of 2 cm to reduce it by 2 cm, then lay the waist line of 6 cm and build a second tuck, is equal to the first. 


From the waist line on the side cut up to delay 5 - 6 cm, obtained point to connect with the traveling end of the first tuck to the middle of the front on the waist line.


Double-breasted closure shelves to hold the line from the end of the pulley-block darting to the intersection with the middle of the front cloth, continuing it to the right by 10 cm and Then to connect with the middle of the front on the waist line, as shown in Fig. 112 b. Point 10 to connect with the unfastened part of the collar, i.e. point 15 - 18. 


From the end of tackle Darts on the skirt to apply cut lines to the bottom and waist, not reaching the lateral cut and the middle of the front of 0.5 cm side cut down to raskleit dress 5 cm 


pattern pieces are numbered and show the direction of the grain lines. 


Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting (Fig. 113) 

 Back (Fig. 113, a). When cutting the middle of the pattern to put the fold of the fabric. 

 The shelf (Fig. 113, b) be cut out of the pattern. The middle of the front must pass the common thread. 

 The rear panel of the skirt (Fig. 113, in). To receive the flared gussets a pattern for applying lines to cut from the bottom of the Darts, then waist to the side and cut the middle of the rear cloth skirts, not dorezaya 0.5 cm Fabric folded in half face inside, the direction of the grain lines on the pattern should coincide with a partial thread on the fabric. 

 The front panel of the skirt (Fig. 113, g) be cut out of the obtained pattern is similar to rear panel. 

The seam and stocks is shown in Fig. 113.
 


Tailoring 

1. To celebrate the middle of the back and forepart cushioning seam. 

2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns.

3. Baste and sew lower collar in the middle, the seam resuturing. To make nadziejko in the corner of the shoulder shelves on the width of the seam allowance given in the cutting. The middle of the collar pin to the middle of Rostock. Baste shoulder seams, collar votati in Rostock. Then sew shoulder seams, collar vracheva at the same time in Rostock. From the notch line to be reduced by 0.2 - 0.3 cm from the cut edge, sew on the front and collar. Shoulder seam to press in the back side, seam primaqiune of the collar toward the collar.

4. Baste and sew the collar in the middle, the seam resuturing. Tack the collar to the bottom, folding inside out, propositiva in the corners. Top collar to pritchet on the bottom, the seam resuturing. Remove the collar on the front side, straightening the seam, releasing the roll from the top of the collar 0.2 - 0.3 cm. 

5. Baste and sew the side tuck and side seam. To votati gusset, combining control point to votate and astrocity her bodice.

6. To handle the bottom of the sleeves, sew the ends of the piping, stitch resuturing. To sew on the machine a single section of piping, the seam priotity, tack the facing folded it face with face sleeves, pritchet, the bend facing towards the inside, to cover up, releasing the roll from the sleeve, then sew hidden stitches. 

7. Instead of Darts at the back to collect double rare Assembly line. 

8. Baste and sew soft tucks on the skirt from top to bottom, to fix in the end cross the line, to press towards the middle. 

9. Sew the skirt seams, bend and sweep, the upper cut her and priotity.

10. Tack the skirt to the bodice, pin the middle front and back - panels to the middle shelves and back. To pristroit line width of 1 - 0.5 cm 

11. Hem the bottom of the dress. Finishing sew on buttons and iron.



Category: A hundred styles of women's dresses | Added by: 20.10.2017
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