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Home » Articles » According to the laws of beauty

Brief biography of the costume

3 part of

the Territory that was occupied by the Ancient Rus, is famous for its variety of nationalities, tribes and races. This language diversity that differentiate it from other countries who are not affected in clothing, although in General it is possible to find a certain unity.
The first extant data on it belong to the period between the VIII and XII centuries. They show that Russian clothes were simple in style and somewhat similar to the primitive tunic of the ancient Egyptians and Romans. Women, for instance, wore a long canvas shirt-corocito wide straight cut, belted at the hips, and embroidered at the edges. Robe is the main item.
Men's clothing consisted of a linen shirt with long and wide sleeves, wide trousers with a gusset at step, and coat, coarse wool girt with a sash. Around the legs wrapped pieces of cloth. Then put the leather soles, straps which cross over on the foot, tying their knot. 
On the shoulders was thrown a cloak, reinforced with pins. In X - XIII centuries it was called the cloak or Corse. The first was a short Cape, Corse - a long mantle.
In the second half of the ELEVENTH century, in the Russian apparel all more clearly begins to show a class difference. The dress of princes, nobles, warriors and other layers of the upper class is changing. There begin to appear the old Russian elements. So, to replace a short coat come longer or tightly closed kaftans with colour trim at the edges. The cloak is made of the expensive material. On one shoulder or in front of the neck it is attached a buckle. It served as a sign that the owner of the cloak has a very high position. 
The people, jealously keeping the old customs remained in the same clothes.
Only at the end of the THIRTEENTH century, partial changes were made and the main features of Russian costume. This process, however, occurred so slowly that the existing clothes continued to persist for a long time. A female wardrobe is replenished, from the FOURTEENTH century, a dress, buttoned in the front next to small buttons, belted high so dushegreyku and colored handkerchief around his neck. Remarkable headpiece. Everyday - high hard cap (bun), a smart kokoshnik. The shoes served shoes with ties or without them.
In the XVI - XVII centuries of a noble woman definitely order a shirt with baggy sleeves at the top. Coats with fur trim. 
And again new - women's Kaftan. He made somewhat wider for men, closes with a large silver or pewter buttons and shawl belts. Diversity and headgears. Appear hat Fox fur, brocade, satin or damask, trimmed with fur; in fashion fur hood. 
It seems that, as now, the then Russian women differed extraordinary ingenuity, if it came to their appearance.
They are inventing new jewelry, including copper and silver earrings, as it is now, some of his tricks are brought to the absurd. This applies in particular to blush and white, which they often simply abused. Newfangled then the makeup was applied so thick that the impression that all women smeared with flour. The cheeks were painted using a special brush in a bright red color. Also painted eyebrows and eyelashes.
In all probability, this custom Belitsa and reddening has become so widespread and enduring that it even reflected in the notebooks of N. V. Gogol. There we find the remark that every man "imputes his duty before a wedding, among other gifts, to bring the bride to his drawer with whitewash and blush".
Do not think that men of that time remained conservative and did not react to new trends. If we didn't mention them until now, just because paying homage to the eternal Russian chivalry, in this case, first talk about women's fashion, and then men. In short, you guessed it, the clothing of the representatives of the "stronger sex" is also not remained stagnant and gets a few other, more recent features.
Chemise, or shirt, is now going with a narrow collar with stitched under the arms with gussets of red taffeta. These clothes were made of cloth, Holma or silk (depending on nobility and wealth) and embroidered on the collar, sleeves and bottom with colored silk. The preference was given to long wide pants gathered into the braid.

Category: According to the laws of beauty | Added by: 30.06.2018
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