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Home » Articles » According to the laws of beauty

Brief biography of the costume

Part 5

We now turn to men's clothing. What happened to her?
One of the predecessors of the modern men's suit is the jacket, which appeared in the first half of the SEVENTEENTH century in France and spread in the EIGHTEENTH century in all countries of Western Europe. In Russia, he came at the beginning of the EIGHTEENTH century, when the privileged sectors of society took Western European costume.
The camisole was sewn a long, knee length, with sleeves and without, and had to fit the case. Cotton shirt with lace jabot (collar), lace cuffs, embroidery and lace is intended to create the illusion of wealth and luxury. More colorful than was the camisole, the greater the impression of superiority, he had to inspire others. Occasionally camisole in some parts of the cut were changed and were made from different materials: silk, velvet, cloth. This type of clothing was responsible aesthetic demands of the aristocracy and lasted until half of the EIGHTEENTH century (Fig. 9).

To replace him came another costume that was caused, primarily, by reason of a rational nature. The fact that the addicted to riding to the French aristocracy felt a certain inconvenience when they had to bend a long and wide floors of the coat, fasten the back, and after walking to unfasten them. This complicated procedure gave rise to the idea of creating a costume more suitable for riding.
So there was a coat. It has been known since 1770-ies. Its origin is obliged to French fashion and initially was a men's suit with stand-up-collar, beneath which descended on the shoulders of the Cape. Front collar opened the chin. Coat did cut out the front floors and with long tails in the back.
As we have said, it was intended for street or riding. Then gradually disappeared balerinki, and about 1790 they began to appear two kinds of coats: one day as costume - English, with short tails, who wore the trousers in slinky; the second as an evening or dressy suit - French, with long tails, which were worn with culottes (narrow, short, knee pants), long stockings and shoes.
For tails to use light and heavy fabrics of green, blue and brown colors, they are decorated with braid. Collars made of black velvet. Buttons were sewn Golden.
When people wore culottes and knee-high socks, a suit would be divided into separate parts, which correspond to the articulation of the human body. Not to say that such clothing was very convenient and efficient. But these considerations did not bother the creators of fashion. Most importantly, what they wanted, chic and Shine.
In Russia, the culottes were worn in the early EIGHTEENTH century under Peter 1. They are almost completely out of fashion in the 40-ies of the XIX century. The coat we had circulated since the beginning of the NINETEENTH century.
And since were talking about the tails in Russia, one curious detail, discovered during excavations of ancient cemeteries on the Angara and the Lena. It appears that there is at the turn of the stone and bronze ages, that is, more than four thousand years ago, lived hunters and fishermen, who wore the costume in the form of a tailcoat cut at the front, bib.
Tails have been taking advantage of until 1810. Nowadays, it is recognized almost in all countries of the world. Its purpose is purely ceremonial - for different kind of techniques, ideas, ambassadors, etc. But mostly it is a theatrical and concert costume.
As time went on, and the dress coat there were competitors - charms and coat.
Charms casual English origin - became widespread in the EIGHTEENTH and NINETEENTH centuries. At first he was a double-breasted closure with buttons or hooks. His back, like the coat was made of a few parts with cutoff and an accentuated waistline. The name "charms" and then spread to other, similar cover, types of clothes, uniform, coat. In modern fashion with charms to call only women's coat with a dramatically high waistline.
Frock coat appeared at the end of the EIGHTEENTH century and its origin is also required English fashion. Coat - sort of charms - was initially made with high standing collar and cords on the chest. He was a variety of styles, single breasted, double breasted, long and short hollow.
Korotkobazny single-breasted frock coat with narrow collar and small lapels became fashionable in 1825. And a year later declared himself the double-breasted coat with rounded floors.
In Russia he became popular with the 30-ies of the XIX century as a day suit.
Simultaneously with the coat, the charms and the coat occur long pants that were made of lighter fabrics.
The year 1780 was marked by the appearance of vests, borrowed from the English fashion. The abundance of their styles and colors have made a picturesque variety to the clothing. Vests became the subject of a special panache secular men.
In his novel "the Grandet" Balzac describes interesting collection of amazing jackets that belonged to the young Charles:
"Among them were gray, white and black, the colors of a scarab beetle, with Golden shimmer, glitter, divorce, dual, with shawl lapels, collars, standing and turn-down, with a wide neckline or buttoned to the top, on the gold buttons."
Over time coats, redingotes, coats as well as pants and jackets have undergone a number of modifications in the forms, the decoration, the ornaments, they began to acquire that rational elegance that suits the tastes of the nascent bourgeois aristocracy.

Category: According to the laws of beauty | Added by: 30.06.2018
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