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Home » Articles » According to the laws of beauty

Brief biography of the costume

6 part

Later, during the French revolution of 1789, begins active development of a more democratic, more simple types of clothing, designed for the General population and free from any deliberate artificiality, pretentiousness and nobility. 
However, a change of clothes in the era of capitalism is not only social change but largely commercial considerations Industrialists and traders, deriving from new fashion profits.
Overlooking the French, English and German men's fashion 1874 - 1884 and, you can find various styles of suits and coats, varying in different silhouettes and a variety of decorative finishes and decorations. They leave the impression of deliberate beauty, diversity, contrived artificiality. This garment meets the tastes of the fashionable dandies and intellectuals of the city aristocracy, especially in a suit pursuing the same goal - to prove themselves.
However, the second half of the NINETEENTH century was marked by some transformation of costume. Men's clothing is more simple and monochromatic. Immortal silhouette: less emphasizes the waist line, varies the width of the breast, shoulders and also the width of the pants. To replace the bright colors of the vests come more deaf. Is more common coat, the tails remain exclusively with ceremonial clothes, and since 1850, only they are sewn from black fabric and are worn with the uniform fabric and color pants.
Men's closet filled up by a new kind of suit - a tuxedo, spread initially in England, then throughout Europe. He resembled a jacket, but differed from it in the fact that instead of doing lapels shawl, which had polowsky at the top and bottom poluchiloc form and ending a little above the waist line of the oval bend. Sometimes in tuxedos persisted form of the jacket lapels are also trimmed with silk. The cuffs of the tuxedo had a silly little Cape with one button. The length for the average height was equal to 78 inches.
As a more convenient and neccesserily clothing tuxedo, slightly fitted back and front, is gaining more fans and significantly displaces the long coat. 
The beginning of the twentieth century presents us with the following picture of men's clothing.
If in the past, down jackets were flared, length 88 cm, with an average growth, in 1908 - 1910 this rascles disappears due to a sharp shortening of the blazers by as much as 10 centimeters. They become poluprilegayuschy, with the seam in the middle of the back and a fairly long slit. Jackets with a back and two slots on the sides were not successful. The jackets are much longer jackets (96 inches in average height) are in fashion and are worn with grey trousers. Side lapels and collars of the costumes sometimes are narrow or wide silk braid.Single-breasted jackets fastened with four buttons. Pants poluchilosi forms had 24 centimeters in the knees and 22 - 23 at the bottom.
As for the aesthetic features of this men's suit, it is most accurately determined its magazine "fashion Gentleman". He wrote: 
"Blazers, coats and tuxedos are considered to be aesthetic only because that used to them eyes. Themselves on its own from an artistic point of view they are absurd unbearable, as by the cut, and a dull, dark, drab colors. There is neither pattern nor colouring. Democratic leveling has led to a "uniform". 
It remains to add that the clothing of that time had a lot of constructive defects and was unfit for human labor.
The development of society, changing aesthetic views, traits of rationalism, which gradually became fashion, demanded the immediate revocation of the ruling outfit, with all its quaint decorative appendages and pretentiousness. There is an urgent need to create a more simplified, convenient and elegant costume. Such steel is mainly a jacket and long pants varied different silhouettes and complemented with jackets with a variety of necklines, collars, saliami and tie. This European suit the new type was the basis of men's clothing of the NINETEENTH century.His appearance has outlined some progress in parkostroyeniya male costume. Although a fashion pioneer was France, but in men's fashion becomes the main legislator at the time, England. Women's clothing becomes more moderate and restrained form. This is evident from jackets, coats, dresses of those years, the silhouette and shapes which have already become more elegant and feminine, but far from clear and concise.
Russian nobility, merchants, city officials sought to distinguish in clothing, excited the envy of your peers. Servile imitation of foreigners, particularly the French, has made a fashion stir. Aristocratic women's clothing at the time was full of quirkiness and sophistication of jewelry. Meanwhile, in traditional clothes, especially in a male dominated poverty, the uniformity of the cut and style. The main parts of the male costume in Russia continued to be the shirt-blouse with embroidered pattern on the collar and hem. It was worn over trousers and girded braided belt.The suit was supplemented with pants tucked in wrapped onecame feet. Shoes were sandals, best, boots. In the cold still continued to prevail grey cloth coat, a sheepskin coat and fur jacket sheepskin. Pride and glory was considered a fur coat. More expensive clothes cherished, passing from generation to generation. National Russian clothes decorated with various embroideries, applique patterns, beading. All of the decorations clearly manifested the colorful richness of Russian national ornament.
In late 1840, in Russia there are blazers, but they only become popular in the fifties. Initially, they were made very short (a little below the hips), which gave them a resemblance to the single-breasted coat, but with a slightly low waist, and chest and side pockets. Only in the 1860-ies, the blazers began to sew with a smooth back. Wore them with pants other contrasting colors.
At the same time, in the late 40-ies of the XIX century, declared itself the jackets - a new kind of suit. In silhouette they were tight, loose, without an accentuated waist line, long and short. Styles - single breasted and double breasted. With the advent of the jackets for the first time introduced a side pocket on the chest. 
In 50-ies are in fashion for short and long fitted coats, different coats with open clasp. And B0-ies already invented fold-over clasp. In those same 60 years, along with the blazers start to sew jackets.

Category: According to the laws of beauty | Added by: 30.06.2018
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