AND THE INDISPUTABLE BET
Reflecting largely recognized tastes a certain time, the aesthetic of the clothes is constantly evolving, being subject to the laws of dialectic: quantitative change inevitably results in a qualitative leap. For example, originated in the same trend as the reduction in the width (bottom) pants. The reader, probably, remembers that in the late 40's-early 50-ies of all the accepted width was considered to be 28 - 30 inches. Fashion designers changing fashion trends have gradually reduced the width to 21 - 23 inches. Now its adhere to.It's not just narrower than, say, twenty years ago. This is something new.
The reader may object: it is in a more distant past, such pants were in fashion. Think of it, it was considered pretty wide, came to be considered narrow. Why give old for new, and even beautiful?
And then it shows the fallacy of such reasoning. The fallacy is not through ignorance, but because of ignorance of the merits. The fact that in the past, skinny pants in weight, not vaccinated, though many wore them. Why? Yes, because they were not enough beautiful, they are not in harmony with the silhouette and proportions of the jacket, looked more mechanical appendage to it, rather than thought-out piece of the ensemble. They didn't fit with coat. In the people them have nicknamed "pipes".
The situation is different now, when modern jacket and coats with their top silhouette lines of the shoulders, waist, length, volume transformed and meet natural proportions chelovecheskoi figures, when found unity lines and the harmonic combination between them and the pants.
This style found aesthetic recognition. Moreover, it creates the illusion of grace.
Without abandoning the artistic treasures of the past, from the ideals of beauty that man has created in all previous ages, drawing in them inspiration and using all the valuable, interesting, promising that we, however, are changing the old ideas about beauty. N. G. Chernyshevsky on this occasion wrote: "Change in the content of our desires, and the beautiful fades, performing his job, now bringing so much aesthetic.enjoyment, as they could accommodate the present day; tomorrow is a new day, with new needs, and only a new great can meet them."
So, the concept of beauty, as people's tastes, change, improve, evolve. Sometimes it seems that fashion is a big leap. But it's not. It is this leap, prepared by internal tendencies and laws of development of fashion. That's why, as a rule, rationality and aesthetics new directions quickly gain popularity and a large number of supporters. This is quite understandable, because to dress fashionably means to strive for the culture and the clothing, although in principle these concepts are not adequate.
But, changing, fashion has not only supporters. There are cases where individuals, and not only separate, openly Express their disagreement with the new lines, styles, in short, with the new fashion. We are not talking about specialists-designers who are qualified to criticize a professional point of view certain fashion items, trying to eliminate the shortcomings of the aesthetic or rational nature. We are talking about the adherents of the old, outdated mods that do not wish to notice the present and in the present those changes which appeared in the clothes.Let us recall the fervor with which collapsed several years ago skinny pants. Those who wore them, even offended, calling scum, dudes, etc. Called indiscriminately. Because it is often true fashionista at heart, manners, consumer view of the world remained outside the criticism as wore bell bottoms and a man of progressive, intelligent, sensible, useful under attack just because of the fact that dressed fashionable. No-no this trend is "meet on clothes" is evident now.
Meanwhile, who thinks that the new aesthetic trend in clothing is based on a complete denial or sweeping the overtones of all the old, deeply mistaken. At the time, this is well said Vladimir Ilyich Lenin in a conversation with Clara Zetkin:
"Beautiful need to save, take it as a sample, to proceed from it, even if it is "old". Why we need to turn away from the truly beautiful, to abandon him as a starting point for further development, only on the grounds that it is "old"? Why should we bow down before the new, as before God, to whom we must surrender just because "this is new"? Nonsense, sheer nonsense! There is a lot of hypocrisy, and of course unconscious of the homage to art fashion, dominant in the West."
In fact, none of the modelers in a head did not come to reject single-breasted or double-breasted suit, coat, cap or hat only there on the basis that they wore back in the old days. On the contrary, these uniforms have become part of everyday life, have become traditional and generally accepted. Over time they naturally change to adapt to new conditions and new demands of fashion, but do not disappear. Aesthetic search does not boil down to the denial of these forms, and to the improvement, the enrichment of a more rational lines, beautiful lines, a great variety of styles, textures and colors of fabrics. That's why the wrong people adamant about giving their sympathy to the jackets with the Grenadier shoulders and pants half-meter width, in which they see the standard of beautiful clothes. Anything else is perceived as outright sedition and bad taste. But being so zealously protected by the adherents of the outdated fashion, the time came to replace other shapes and lines and, of course, also aroused different opinions, including negative ones. The standard of taste should be aesthetic norms, not dear to the heart memories of the once fashionable styles.
Special group of old adherents (and opponents modern) fashion are those who believe that doing it for ideological reasons. It honestly deluded people. They think that fashion reflects not only the tastes, but it seems that even the "cans" idea some time.
Again here is an example with narrow pants.
When they started to come into Vogue, in the country house received a letter from Vladivostok. The authors wrote that never refuse to wear slacks because they were "born with the first volley of "Aurora". Indeed, under the influence of the revolutionary romance in those years, came into fashion wide leg pants. Dressing this way, people were paying tribute to the heroic revolutionary sailors. But wide-leg trousers appeared after a volley of "Aurora", but much earlier in 1911. Just some time they became fashionable.And surely even in those years, many noticed that the baggy pants that gather dust and dirt, it's not very convenient. But no one came to mind to change them, because they responded to the tastes of the masses in the same way as leather jacket, tunics, boots - the essential clothing of those years. However, it is not the width of the pants expressed the ideas of the revolution. Therefore, to remain faithful to her ideas is not to give preference to the then mod.
Sometimes fashion deny because individuals turn to her very headstrong. Such waivers in the "vote of confidence" model have had to listen to the author of these lines. After lectures for scientific workers of the Academy of Sciences of the USSR, I was approached by a scientist who expressed a fervent critical remarks about contemporary fashion. Their claims to her, he was accompanied by plenty of examples. The interlocutor was indignant tight trousers worn by the companions of his son, those that restrict movement and barely stretched.Your anger my opponent drew and ties, painted with monkeys, paint colorful socks, pants combined with quiet shades, etc, etc, commenting on how he thought against modern fashion, man basically talked about, utrirovannoe her, the reductio ad absurdum. But it is not necessary to break spears. Indeed, the excesses, the lack of taste, not a measure of extravagance has never met with General approval. We all know that they turn into ugliness, even the most perfect idea of things.
In 1931 in a conversation with the young drummers, known in the literature, Gorky said: "We do not dress as they should dress. You need to wear more color. What these grey and black coats? Need blue, green, red, blue, below... shone rainbow. It is uplifting. Our costumes do not meet the domestic mood, the scope of creativity that lives the country...".
Gorky's words serve as a great response to the arguments of the adherents of the old fashion in our days.
Soviet modeling is based on understanding an important principle, the meaning of which is that clothing is one of the art forms. Along with other means, it affect a person's upbringing, shaping his appearance from childhood to old age. In the common culture of our Soviet life, she occupies a prominent place.
Modern bourgeois aesthetics, divorced from real life of the broad masses of workers, has a negative effect on the culture of clothes. It requires an external glamor, gloss, is a means of advertising and shameless profiteering. It is theoretically and practically the same class - the class of exploiters. Is even when engaged in so-called mass clothing. Designed for retarded psychology that looks close to the clothes of the rich, such a suit must show General prosperity, the notorious "equal opportunities" for the capitalists and workers.In fact, this "consumer goods", only enriches the rich.
I remember in connection with this exhibition of fashion in Moscow in the autumn of 1962, presents the largest Italian firms. Many silhouettes of men's clothing did not like Moscow fashion designers, cutters and the public. They were full of elements of extravagance and pretentiousness. Their lines and shapes of natural data distorted male figures, and over-tightening did these costumes are impractical to wear. One of my colleagues during the demonstration models has rightly observed: "this outfit more femininity than masculinity".
Speaking of aesthetics in the clothing, it should be borne in mind is not external its brilliance and genuine beauty, caressing eyes, delight and joy.
The reader may ask: is it possible to observe all advice? Yeah, maybe. Even when buying ready-made dresses, if the show should taste. Not to mention the custom tailoring that allows it to drill down to consider the details. No wonder he enjoys wide popularity. Call a few numbers. In the Russian Federation alone there are 14 thousand workshops of individual tailoring, which employs 400 thousand people, 30 thousand less than at the enterprises of mass tailoring. Every second adult person in the Republic using their services.It is curious that the Studio produced 2.5 times more women's dresses than light industry.
And how many women sew for themselves and their loved ones! It is a pity that this issue is not yet statistical data. They are of undoubted interest.
Preference for individual tailoring shows not only the pursuit of beauty, customization of clothing, but also of increasing material level of workers. It's no secret that clothing made in the Studio costs a bit more expensive than ready. And as long as people still seek to sew to order, and the percentage of such "individualists" in the best sense of the word is growing, so grew our income, so the desire for beautiful backed by physical possibilities.
How many capitalist countries can boast of such a large number of customers? Unlikely. The West can't afford it the vast majority of workers. In the Studio of individual tailoring, by the famous masters refer only to the representatives of the rich classes, the ruling elite, the so-called "cream of society", whose pockets bulged from the thick checkbooks.