DEFECTS IN CUTTING AND THEIR SOLUTIONS
Design defects are divided into three groups depending on their type and nature. The first group includes those that are caused by inaccuracy of a common shape design product. The second group includes such as a mismatch of clothing the figure in a static, third - mismatch clothing the figure in a movement of the person.
Defects caused by the creation of product form.When developing the main construction is the right choice and the distribution of increments in accordance with fashion and the original individual data pieces, and determining configurations of parts and lines of division.
Incorrect determination of the magnitude of increases in the main structural zones leads to distortion of the shape. The distribution of the allowances is determined by the amount of increase to the poluobhvat chest (GHG). With the increase of the increase to the poluobhvat chest percentage increase to the width of the openings is reduced. The magnitude of increases is also determined by taking into account the depth of openings: the greater the depth, the less the percentage of increase is given by the width of the openings.
Also, the design must be considered and method of forming. It is wrong to create soft voluminous shapes with rigid Darts and reliefs. In contemporary fashion it is very important to choose the location of the side seams, the depth and the location of folds, folds and assemblies. Incorrect positioning recesses, undercuts, reliefs occurs because in determining their position is not taken into account the overall shape and direction of the silhouette lines.
Defects clothing the figure in a static state. The main features of good planting articles in the figure are the equilibrium position of shelves (front) and back, no creases, warps, wrinkles and the horizontal position of the line of the hem, and the loose parts of the parts below the hip line, fall casual; structural and decorative lines running along parts are placed vertically. However, the defects. Their causes are different.
The discrepancy between the size of the backrest and shelves to the dimensions of the shape on surfaces leads to disruption of the balance of parts.
So, if you cropped the shelves before the product is pinched up shelves go of one another, the collar in the front behind the neck, from the neck to the side seam are oblique creases. For defect elimination it is necessary to extend the upper part of the shelves or move it upwards along the side seam, correct the line of the openings (Fig. 437 a).
When too long in front of the shelves diverge at the bottom, the side seams angled towards the back, slanting creases going from the armhole to the lower loop, back collar behind the neck. For defect elimination it is necessary to shorten the shelf in the top or slipping it down along the side seam (Fig. 437 6).
Shelves the product can disperse or to go one after another and a number of other reasons such as the inaccuracy of the connection shoulder and side sections, the inaccuracy of the paving edges, the error in the determination of solution a chest tuck. Shelves go down on one another in that case, if the top side of the cut shelves set below the top side of the cut backs. To remedy the defect of the shelf move along the side slice (Fig. 437). If the top of the neck is shifted in the direction of the armhole, the shoulder cut is moved to the side of the neck (Fig. 437 g).
Cropped back leads to the fact that it is broken up, the collar behind the neck, side seams shifted back. For defect elimination it is necessary to lengthen the back to top or move it up along the side seam, correct the line at the arm openings and the neck (Fig. 437 a).
If too long the back of the product is turned towards the shelves, the bottom of the product adheres to feet, side seams offset to the side of the shelves. To remedy the defect should be trimmed back to the top or slipping it down along the side seam (Fig. 438 a).
Shelves at the bottom diverge, if the top side of the cut shelves placed above the top side of the cut backs. To remedy the defect, the shelf is lowered down (Fig. 438). If the top of the neck shelves is shifted to the side of the neck, the defect is eliminated by moving the shoulder cut shelves to the side of the openings (Fig. 438 g).
If insufficient solution chest Darts, it is necessary to increase; if the product is tapered at the hip line, it is necessary to expand.
An imbalance of the sleeve is a consequence of many reasons. So, if you incorrectly determined the position of nasechek on the sleeve or armhole, this leads to a deviation of the sleeve forward or back. If the sleeve is set back, on the front of the roll formed transverse creases. For defect elimination it is recommended to shift the notch of the sleeve in the clockwise direction (Fig. 439 a).
If the sleeve is deflected forward and the elbow roll has transverse creases, it is necessary to shift nadziejko on the sleeve counterclockwise (Fig. 439 b).
Loose horizontal folds at the top of the sleeve caused by the increased height of the crown or narrow crown sleeves. For defect elimination it is necessary to reduce the height of the crown and to expand the sleeve (Fig. 440 a). Insufficient height of the crown leads to the appearance of oblique creases running from the top of the crown. To remedy the defect increase the height of the crown (Fig. 440 b).
If the front seam of the wrench towards the upper part of the sleeve means, the top of the elbow of the cut bottom of the sleeve is set below the top elbow section of the upper part of the sleeve. It is necessary to eliminate the lower part of the sleeve to move the elbow cut up (Fig. 441 a). Viverravidae the front seam to the side bottom of the sleeve occurs when the top of the ulnar edge of the lower part placed above the top elbow section of the upper part of the sleeve. The defect is eliminated by moving the ulnar edge of the lower part of the sleeve down (Fig. 441 b).
Inaccuracies build the neck lead to the following defects. If the collar behind the neck around, then increased the size of the neck, both in width and depth. Eliminate this defect by reducing the size of the neck (Fig. 442 a). The collar behind the neck at neckline backless with excessive depth. For defect elimination it is necessary to reduce the depth of the neck of the backrest (Fig. 443 a). The collar behind the neck on the side with the excessive width of the neck. Lack correct reduction of the width of the neck (Fig. 443 b) . The collar presses on his neck at the site of the back long at the back at the top.To fix this, you need to remove the back neckline and shoulder sections (Fig. 442 6).
The inconsistency of the size and shape of a garment of the figure on separate sites leads to the appearance of longitudinal, oblique and transverse creases and folds.
Horizontal folds under the collar at the back are formed by excessive elongation of the middle part of the back from the neckline to the line of openings or too large inclination of the shoulder sections. The disadvantage can be eliminated by increasing the depth of the neck and lower bevel of the shoulder sections of the backrest (Fig. 444 a, 6).
The oblique creases on the back under the armhole towards the shoulder blades, emerge from the insufficient inclination of the shoulder sections and are eliminated by increasing the slope of the shoulder sections of the back and, if necessary, deepening the armhole (Fig. 445, b). Slanted creases at the armhole shelves (forehand) going to the neck, occur when an excessive length of the side of the shelves and the lack of solution a chest tuck. To remedy the defect increases the slope of the shoulder cut shelves, deepen the armhole, shorten the side seam, increase the solution a chest tuck (Fig. 445 b).
Fan shaped creases at the waist line the middle seam of the back, side and Princess seams at the fitted products occur when excessive deflection of the sections at the waist. Corrects by reducing the deflection, and the introduction of additional joints to maintain the width of the scarf at the waist (Fig. 446). Transverse creases along the waistband on the back panel of the skirt can be when there is insufficient deflection of the upper edge of a panel or an excessive increase in back and side Darts. The lack of resolve, widening the upper section of the rear panel and reducing the solution tucks (Fig. 447 a).
Slack in the area of the hips on the side skirt might work if you increase the side tuck. To correct the lack of save solution side tucks and in accordance with the shape increase the fluids in the rear or front Darts (Fig. 447 b).
The above defects are the most common. There are others, but their influence on the fit of the finished product is less important.
Defects of clothing on the figure in motion. To create products that are comfortable to wear, it is necessary for the construction to take into account the changes in the size of the shapes that occur when driving. Convenience of clothing in motion is ensured by proper selection and distribution increases, the shape and size of the items. Selection and distribution increases should be based on properties of the tissues. In the products of inelastic materials freedom of movement is ensured only at the expense of increases, so their value is higher than in clothes made of elastic materials.
Most rational addition to poluobhvat chest in light clothing gain is equal to 5-6 cm With the yield increase clothing is comfortable, but too wide of the product is also impractical. Convenience of clothing in motion also depends on the correct ratio of depth of the armhole and the height of the top part. So lightweight clothing with the increase in depth of openings PSPR equal to 4 to 6 cm, most comfortable environment provides a sleeve, the height of the crown of which does not exceed 12-13 seeWhen PSPR equal to 6-8 cm, the most convenient height of the top part of the sleeve is equal to 8-10 cm and in PSPR more than 10 cm height of the crown should be 3-8 see more
There are different defects in the movement. First of all, the difficulty in securing hands forward. This defect arises if the back is tapered in the shoulder girdle or the lower part (Fig. 448 a, b) openings, if the tapered top part of the sleeve (Fig. 449 b) in the event of incorrect registration of the openings of the shelf (Fig. 449). The defect can be eliminated by increasing the width of the backrest, the extension sleeve on the crown and re-openings of the shelves (Fig. 449).
Difficulty in lifting anything happening and then, if the increased depth of the armhole and tapered the top part of the sleeve (Fig. 450). Corrects the introduction of gussets in the lower part (Fig. 450 b), the extension lifts the shoulders or a decrease in the depth of the openings due to the margin in the lower part (Fig. 450). In the absence of the lower margin of the upper contour (Fig. 450 g) or reduce the height of the top part of the sleeve (Fig. 451).