PROCESSING SIDE AND SHOULDER SECTIONS
, the Processing of the side sections.Or in front of shelves stacked with back right sides inside, stack the slices and metiaut, combining the control line, grind off the weld width of 1-1,5 cm, joint Width can be increased. In products with flared hem of the skirt and sew the side sections, with lines parallel to the cuts to the bottom line bending, and the area of bending the bottom line are laid so that after the operation of bending the bottom seams of a grinding match. The side sections of the overcast and rautureau. Depending on model the side seams in the products of wool and silk fabrics can be press.In this case, it cuts both overcast together, so the same process side seams in the products of cotton fabrics.
Treatment of the shoulder sections. A shelf, or in front, and a back fold, right sides inside, the adjustment sections, smatyvay, Posiva back, stepping back from the neck 1.5-2 cm, and done at a distance of 3-4 cm from the cut edge of the armhole. The size of the landing depends on the figure of the customer and the availability of tuck on the back. Flatlock perform from the side of the front two or one line with the paving edges. When grinding the shoulder cuts with the edge it is placed from the front (shelves) so that one edge of the edges coincide with the shoulder cut and the other for its edge by 0.1-0.2 cm fell under the stitching.
When connecting the shoulder sections of two lines they should be located from one another not more than 0.1-0.15, see products sleeveless shoulder seams sew one line. Weld width of 1-1,5 cm Shoulder seams rautureau or iron depending on the model.
COUPLING the COLLAR WITH the NECK AND handle
Processing of the collar. The top collar is folded with the lower right sides inside and metiaut, equating the slices at the ends and go with planting the top of the collar on the corners and pins, sew a seam width of 0.5-0.7 cm Sections of seams in the corners are cut, leaving a seam allowance of 0.2-0.3 see the Collar turn on the front side, corners and joints straighten and spawn, forming the edge of the top collar with a width of 0.1-0.2 see the Finished collar priorivet (Fig. 516).During the processing of a collar with a lining of cotton fabric strip are laid on the underside of the upper collar and grind the collar on the strip or the lower collar. The upper collar straightened so that he was freer strip and the bottom of the collar. Collar with pointed ends and collar in the products of fat tissue grind only on departure. In the products of wool, silk and knitted fabrics kremenovich seam grinding scribbled on the bottom collar.If the upper and lower collars stachivaya in the neck at the same time, collar neckline umatyvaet and prostrachivajut at a distance of 0.5-0.6 cm from the edge of the lower collar, the upper collar having looser lower by 0.1-0.3 cm depending on the tissue.
Processing of a collar, consisting of two oluwarotimi. The processed part of the collar to the method described above, put the ends back and fasten hand stitches or machine stitching at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge (Fig. 517).
Processing and finishing removable collar. If the upper collar is cut separately from the bottom fold with the bottom, right sides inside, stack the slices, smatyvay and grind on all sides, leaving the cut front hole 2.5-3 cm for screwing out of the collar. Cut seams in corners are cut, leaving a seam allowance of 0.2-0. see the Collar turn on the front side, corners and joints straighten, spawn and priorivet (Fig. 518 a).
If finishing collar one-piece, fold it along the middle face inward and grind the ends of the collar and the rack, leaving the rack neobychnym cut a hole with a length of 2.5-3 cm at the Left edge of the strut hole zastrugivajut on the machine or manually sew hidden stitches. Cut the rack not to grind, and a buttonhole or to turn over (Fig. 518 b) depending on the tissue.
Coupling the fold-over collar with neckline products with flaps. Umatyvaet collar in the neckline up to the notch defining a ledge. Make the landing collar above the shoulder seams. Podbot folding with a shelf, right sides inside, the adjustment sections, smatyvay. Grind the ledges on the part of podborov (seam width 0.7 cm). At the same time stachivaya the collar to the shoulder seam or the inner edge of podborta. About the shoulder seam on the seam allowance of the upper collar netscout, the upper collar and folded down the back into the neck stachivaya one lower collar.The other end of the collar in the area from the shoulder seam to the ledge stachivaya as well, not taking the thread (Fig. 519). After vrachevanie collar side turn on the front side, the corners of the sides straighten, unbend collar. In the area from the ledges up to the shoulder seams seam vrachevanie collar features between the shelf and podborom, and the area between the shoulder seams, seam vrachevanie the bottom of the collar are bent to the side of the collar.Slice the rack of the upper collar in the area between the shoulder seams, bends so that the bent edge of a closed line of vrachevanie the bottom of the collar, and scribbled it at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the bent edge. Collar priorivet.
The connection of the collar with the neck in products with zipper top. In products from fine fabrics with zipper top when connecting the collar with the neck of podborta or allowances for processing the sides, replacing podborta do narrow so that the inner edge of podborta or mating side of the shelves overlap point of the ledge not less than 1.5-3 cm Before connecting the collar with the neck of the bead to be processed.The collar is folded with the product, aligning the front side of the lower collar against the face of the product stack the slices and metiaut, making the fit of the lower collar area of the shoulder joints (at a distance of 1.5-2 cm to the side of the neck backless and 3-4 cm to the side of the neck shelves). Stachivaya collar in the neck from the bottom of the collar (Fig. 520). The seam is bent towards the bottom of the collar. The cut stands the top of the collar to buckle at 0.5-0.7 cm and scribbled on the inside a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edges, closing the seam vrachevanie the bottom of the collar.
In articles made of thick fabrics and knitted fabrics, the cut of the neck top of collar previously overcast. Allowance of the upper collar scribbled on the device neck without bending the cut inside, positioning the line at a distance of 0.4-0.5 cm from the serged edges.
Coupling the fold-over collar neckline with piping. The inner sections of the piping bend towards the inside of 0.5-0.7 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.2 cm from the bent edge. The ends of obcutek pritachivajut to the inner edges of podborov. Iron seams to the side of podborov. The collar is applied on the front side of the product down the lower collar, then placing the facing from the top of the collar face down, by bending the inner edge of podborov on the front side, the slices are equal, primetyvajut and stachivaya collar in the neckline with a facing (Fig. 521). Joint width of 0.7-1 cm.The corners of the boards turn out, the seam vrachevanie collar scribbled on the facing, then folded in the direction of the product facing the closed seam and priorivet collar. The inner edge of the piping attached to the shoulder seams by machine stitching parallel to the shoulder seam, and the back and the front - manually hidden stitches between the middle front and back and shoulder seams.
Processing and connecting with the neck collar stands. Collar bend along the middle, fold inside out and grind the ends of the seam width 0.5-0.7 cm (Fig. 522 a). In collars-racks with tie ends simultaneously with the grinding tips to grind and equity edge to nasechek defining the beginning and end of vrachevanie the stand-up collar at the neck (Fig. 522b). The seams, in corners cut, leaving a seam allowance of 0.15-0.2, see the Collar turn on the front side, straighten seams and priorivet.When connecting with the neck of the inner part of the stand fold front side with the underside of the product and stachivaya from the collar seam width 0.7-1 cm Seam folded in the direction of the collar. Cut the outer part of the rack bends at 0.5-0.7 cm and scribbled on the inside a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edge. Closing line of vrachevanie interior of the rack (Fig. 522). Collar priorivet. In turn-down collars with combined stand at first connect collar.Of the rack folded, right sides inside, between them put machined collar (Fig, 522 g), equating sections with the outer sections of the rack primetyvajut and grind the ends of the racks with simultaneous pritachivajut collar. Combine this collar with the neckline the same as collar.
Treatment of the neck pokrainini obrazkami products without collar.Part of the piping sew a seam with a width of 0,5-0,7 see the Seams rautureau. The inner sections of obcutek bend towards the inside of 0.5-0.7 cm and zastrugivajut at a distance of 0.1 cm from the bent edge. If the product is handled clasp from the neck of the front or the back, the ends of the piping pritachivajut to obtachku (podborta or allowances for processing the zipper) seam width 0.7 cm, the Stitches are bent in the direction of obcutek fasteners (podborov).The facing applied to the front side of the product face down, the adjustment sections, and the seams grinding obrazek combine with the shoulder seams of the product and grind the cut of the neck seam width 0.7 cm Seam on the concave line and in the inner corners netscout, not reaching to line 0.1-0.2, see the Facing folded seam folded in the direction of the piping and scribbled on the front side piping at a distance of 0.1-0.3 cm from the seam grinding. Then the facing folded to the inside of the product, spawn, forming in the direction of the piping edge with a width of 0.1-0.2 cm (Fig. 523).The inner edge of the piping attached to the shoulder seams machine stitches parallel to shoulder seams and to the back, and the front - by hand with hidden stitches.
Treatment of neck edging seam with bias binding. Neck edging seam treated with closed sections double folded bias binding. The bias tape cut out at an angle of 45' to the warp width depending on the width of Kant (Kant's twice the width plus 1-1,5 cm). In products without clasps around the neck to join the middle sections of the back so that when further processing of the ends of the edging came in a seam. The average seam allowance is attached in the upper part of the product line across the border at a distance of 0.3-0.4 cm from the slices of the seam. The ends of the edging can go to strings, the length of which depends on the model (Fig. 524 a, b).In products with closure treated podborany, okantovany of the neck is performed before the machining of the sides. After processing, the sides of the upper sections of podborov bends inward so that the bent edge overlaps the line of the neck edging of 0.1-0.2 cm, and fix them with machine stitch from the front side of the product on the binding line of the neck (Fig. 524).