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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Blouse fabric in pinstripe with a single cut collar, passing in the bar

 Drawing lines style. The drawing of the pattern of this blouse (Fig. 49) take the blouse pattern without seam allowance on Board and it is applied to the line of cut (Fig. 50). 
Tuck the top of the shoulder of the slice was transferred to a side cut. For this side cut from the armhole to the waist line divide into three equal parts. Top breaking point connects a straight line with the top of the upper tuck. This line pattern is cut and diluted, while combining the upper dart. 

 Construction drawing of the collar. To construct a line of vrachevanie of collar from point B down the midline of the shelves lay 10 - 12 cm and put the point A. connect point a with a dotted line with a dot V and continue this line up. From the point W on this line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2cm and put a point A. 
VA = 18 : 3 + 2 = 8 cm 
From point A left and right, restore the perpendiculars to the line AA. From the point A the left of the perpendicular lay of 0.5 cm and put a point A. Point A connect a smooth line with a point W. 

 The middle line of the collar. From the point A right perpendicular lay 8 cm and put a point A. From the point Apostasy perpendicular to the line AA, which lay 0.8 cm, and put a point A. Point A and A connect a smooth concave line. 

 The line of departure. From the chest to the left and right delay to Get 2 see points 2 and 2'. From the chest line down the midline of the front lay 12 - 14 cm and put a point A. From the point A lay left and right 2 cm and connect the resulting points by straight lines from points 2 and 2' on the line of the chest.
Through the point V hold right horizontal line, which lay 5 cm, and put a point A. Point A connect the dotted line with a dot A. From the point A up on the dotted line delay 0.6 cm and put a point A. The distance between the points A and A divide in half, from the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points A and A. 

 Lines of the end collar. From the point I left on a horizontal line delay of 1.5 cm and put a point A. Point A connect the dotted line with a point 2 on the chest. From the point A down on the dotted line delay of 0.5 cm and put a point A. Point A, B, A connect straight lines. The distance between the points A and 2 divided, from the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0,3 cm Obtained point connect a smooth line with points A and 2.
Point V connect the dotted line with a point 2'. The dotted line between these points is divided from the dividing point to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points V and 2'. 

 Line primaqiune valve. From the waist line on the right side of the front tucks down lay 3 and 12 - 14 cm From the left point spend a horizontal line, on which lay the segments is equal to 3 cm, and connect them with a straight line. 

 The layout pattern and cutting fabric (Fig. 51). When the width of the fabric 90 cm on a blouse 1 m 80 cm of fabric.
Detail pattern of backrest is placed on the fabric, folded in half, the middle line to the bend of the fabric. For the remainder of the width of the back fabric.placed the details of the patterns of sleeve and valves. For the front fabric fold the width in half, the fold on the right side. The pattern of the shelves..stack (the middle line) to the fold of the fabric. On the shelf lay pattern pieces on the collar. 
The upper part of the collar cut out completely, and the bottom to conserve fabric, you can stitch parts. Seam do as shown in the figure. 

 Sewing. Smatyvay valves and umatyvaet them in the front tuck. Smatyvay tuck, side, shoulder seams, cut the sleeves, umatyvaet sleeve in the armhole. Details of the collar smatyvay average cut umatyvaet in the neck. Doing the fitting, after the elimination of all faults start sewing. Valve grind and stachivaya in the front tuck. Tuck bent to the side mid front, and zametyvayut priorivet. Sew the remaining tuck, zametyvayut, priorivet. Grind all cuts, seams rautureau and overcast. Stachivaya sleeves, on-seam overcast both cut together. Have to hem the sleeves and bottom of blouse.Sew the middle sections of the lower and upper collar, seams rautureau. The upper collar namachivajut on the bottom line of departure and ends and grind. In the corners make the notch, the seams are cut, turn the collar on the front side, on the edge of spawn and priorivet. The lower collar umatyvaet and stachivaya in the mouth to 0.6 cm from the slices. The seam is bent toward the bar. Slice the top of the collar to buckle towards the inside by 0.5 cm and sew hidden stitches to the seam of vrachevanie the bottom of the collar.
The collar and the valve can be made of finish fabric.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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