The drawing of the pattern of this blouse (Fig. 37) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Before the creation of the drawing pattern, to make a preliminary calculation.

 Blouse width is equal to the measure of poluobhvat chest plus 4 cm for loose fit (48 + 4 = 52 cm).

 Back width is equal to the measure of the width of the back, plus 1.5 cm (18 + 1,5 = 19,5 cm).

 The width of openings equal to 1/4 of the measure poluobhvat chest minus 1 cm (48 : 4 - 1 = 11 cm).

 The width of the front equal to the width of the blouse minus the width of the back and armholes (52 - 19,5 - 11 = 21.5 cm).

 Construction drawing patterns backless. On the left side of the sheet of paper 5 centimeters from the upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the back to the waist line plus 20 cm (38 + 20 = 58 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 38, a).
Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line.

 Length of the back to the waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay measure the length of the back to the waist line (38) plus 0.5 cm and put a point T (38 + 0,5 = 38.5 cm).

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 19.5 cm (according to preliminary calculation) and put a point A.
From the point A down perpendicular.

 The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right of the line AA lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a point E.
AA = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm
From the point E raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.2 cm, and put a point E.
AA = 18 : 10 + 1,2 = 3 cm.
Angle AAA divide in half, from point A line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.1 cm and put a point E.
AA = 18 : 10 - 0,1 = 1.7 cm
Point A, A, And connect a smooth concave line.

 Shoulder cut. From the point A down on a vertical line lay 1.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 0.5 cm for the upper shoulders or 2.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P.
Through the points P and A hold a straight line, on which lay the measure the shoulder length plus 1.6 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 cm for landings and put a point P.
AP = 13,5 + 1,6 + 0,5 = 15,6 cm

 Depth of the armhole. From a point P on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm and put a point G.
PG = 48 : 4 + 7 = 19 see
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm (48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6.5 cm (48 : 4 + 6,5 = 18.5 cm).
Through the point G to the left, spend a horizontal line to the intersection with line EN, the point of intersection represent G. From the point G to the right is carried out a horizontal line of arbitrary length.

 The width of the openings. From the point G to the right along a horizontal line delay period equal to 1/2 of the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point G (11 : 2 = 5.5 cm).
From the point G lowered perpendicular to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection with the line of waist and line the bottom indicate T and N.

 The upper section of the sleeve. Line UP continue to the right. From the point P this line to the right lay the cut is equal to the measure of the length of the sleeve (16 cm), and put a point P.
From the point P with a radius equal to the segment PP, conduct the arc. From the point P down in an arc lay 1/4 measurements sleeve length plus 1 cm and put a point P (16 : 4 + 1 = 5 cm).
Point P P and connect with a straight line.

 The waist line. From the point T the left on line T lay 2.5 cm and put a point T.
Point T and G connect the dotted line.

 Line podraza sleeves. From the point G down the line GT lay 1/8 measurements of poluobhvat chest minus 1 cm and put a point G.
GG = 48 : 8 - 1 = 5 cm.
Point G and G join with a straight line.

 Line the bottom of the sleeves. Point G and P connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half HP, from the points of division at right angles to the dotted line lay 1 cm, getting the point 1. Then point P, 1, G connect a smooth line.

 The side cut. Point G T and connect with a straight line.

 Construction drawing patterns shelves. On the right side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist line plus 20 cm (43 + 20 = 63 cm), and put the points In and N (Fig. 38, b).
From the points In N to the left and hold the horizontal line.

 The depth of the armhole. From a point down the line BH lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest and put the point G.
SH = 48 : 2 = 24 see
From point G to the left, spend a horizontal line.

 The width of the shelves. From a point to the left along a horizontal line delay period, equal to the width of the front (21.5 cm by prior calculation), and put a point A.
From the point I lowered down the perpendicular to the intersection with the line of the chest, the point of intersection designated by the letter G.

 The width of the openings. From the point G left on a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the width of the openings (see preliminary calculation) and put a point G (11 : 2 = 5.5 cm).
From the point G lowered perpendicular to the intersection line at the bottom. The point of intersection with the line of waist and line the bottom indicate T and N.

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From a point to the left along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a dot B.
W = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm
From a point down the vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point W.
W = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm.
Points B and F connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half WV, point dividing the join the dotted line with point B. From point b on this line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point W.
W = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see
Through the points B, V and W hold a smooth line.

 The center of the chest. From the point G to the left on a horizontal line lay the measure of center of the chest (9.5 cm) and put a point G.
From the point G raise up perpendicular to the line GH, the point of intersection of this line with the line AB indicate W.

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point V down the vertical line delay measurements height chest (27 cm) and put a point G.

 Shoulder cut to tuck. From the point B down on a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point W. Point V and B connect by a straight line.
From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 4 cm and put a point P.
HP = 48 : 4 + 4 = 16 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 3.5 cm (48 : 4 a + 3.5 = 15.5 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 4.5 cm (48 : 4 + 4,5 = 16,5 cm).
From the point P to the left hold horizontal line on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P.
PP = 48 : 10 = 4,8 cm
Point P connect the dotted line with a dot W. From the point P right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of VB, minus 0.3 cm and put a point P.
PP = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm

 Line tuck. Point G P and connect with a straight line. From the point G on this line lay the cut is equal to the segment FG, and put a point P.

 Shoulder cut top cut sleeves. Point P connect a straight line with a point P and continue this line to the left. From the point P on this line lay the measure of the length of the sleeve (16 cm) and put a point P. From the point P radius equal
PP, conduct the arc. From the point P down in an arc lay 1/4 measurements length sleeves and put a point P (16 : 4 = 4 cm).
Point P and P connect a smooth line.

 The waist line. From a point down the line BH postpone the measure length of the front to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put a point T (43 x 0.5 = 43.5 cm). From the point G down the vertical line delay period equal to GT (drawing back), and put a point T.
Point T connect a smooth line by point T. From the point T right at the waist lay 2.5 cm and put a point T. Point T connect the dotted line with a dot G.

 Line podraza sleeves. From the point G down the line GT lay 1/8 measurements of poluobhvat chest minus 1 cm and put a point G. Point G G and connect with a straight line.

 Line the bottom of the sleeves. Point G and P connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half HP, from the points of division at right angles to the dotted line delay period equal to 1 see Get point 1. Then point P, 1, G connect a smooth line. Point G T and connect with a straight line.

 Line the bottom of the blouse. From the point C down the vertical lines of the delay value of the segment TN (drawing back) and put a point N. Point N and N connect a smooth line.

 Side cut backless. To calculate the width of the scarf at the hip line to measure the poluobhvat hips add 2cm for loose fit, from the obtained value is subtracted poluobhvat hips obtained when creating drawings backrest and shelves between the points N, N on the back and H N on the shelf. The result is distributed equally between the front and back (25 + 27 = 52 cm; 53 + 2 = 55 cm; 55 - 52 = 3 cm; 3 : 2 = 1.5 cm).
The drawing back from the point N hold right horizontal line, which lay 1.5 cm, and put a point N. Point N and T connect the dotted line, dotted line, divide in half, from the points of division to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points T and N.

 Side cut shelves. Line N continue to the left. From the point N on this line lay 1.5 cm and put a point N. Point N and T connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half IN from the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points T and N.

 The construction of the Darts at the waist , see Fig. 53 in the first article of the section "Dresses".

 Construction drawing of the pattern gussets. Spend two mutually perpendicular lines, point of intersection denoted by letter G (Fig. 38). From the point G to the left and right on a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) minus 0.5 cm and dots G and G.
GG = GG = 11 : 2 - 0,5 = 5 cm.
Point G and H make tick marks on the vertical line down the radius equal to the distance GG (drawing back). The resulting point connect the straight lines with dots G and G. Through G and G spend a vertical line, on which lay the segments equal to the segment GH (drawing back), and dots G and G. Point G G and connect with a straight line. From points G, H in the direction of the vertical line delay of 0.5 cm (for all sizes). The resulting points are linked by straight lines with points G and G.

 The layout of the pattern and cutting fabric. Pattern pieces laid on fabric, aligning the direction of the grain lines in the drawing direction of the grain lines of the fabric. To cut parts of the pattern give the seam (Fig. 39).

 Sewing. Before you start smachivanie blouse, you must undercut the sleeves on the front and the back well be swept off to the edge of it rubs off.
Smatyvay tuck. After that, the front and the back fold right sides inwards and smatyvay shoulder sections and sleeve sections of the shelves and back along the lines of the seam. Chop undercuts shelves and back; from the end of the undercut shear and smatyvay the side sections along the lines of the seam.
The highest point of the gusset pinned to the side cut, pin the corners of the gusset (point G and H, see Fig. 38) to the corners of podraza blouse, then primetyvajut the gusset from the side of the blouse, excluding the side seam, otherwise it will tighten the gusset. Further primetyvajut the side sections of the gusset to the undercuts sleeves and do the fitting. In the process of fitting it is necessary to ensure that the shoulder seam and the sleeve seam has been removed.
After correcting all the flaws start to sewing blouses: sew Darts, zametyvayut them and iron, sew shoulder and side sections, the seams rautureau and overcast.
Gusset begin to vacilate from its highest point. The lateral cut should not fall into the seam vrachevanie. gussets. He lifted and begin to tacuati by basting one side of the gusset from the side of the blouse; on the corners of the foot of the machine is lifted, leaving the needle in the fabric.
The second side gussets easier to tacuati, ranging from sleeves. Stachivaya the kerchief from the sleeve of the blouse, in the corners of the foot of the machine is lifted, leaving in the tissue the needle, and turn the shirt so that it is easy to tacuati.
You need to ensure that the corners no folds. For strength in the corners can be placed under the stitching a piece of fabric. Seam rautureau on both sides of the iron or to one side; then primetyvajut allowances of the side seam to the crotch so that the side seam is not pulled.
To protect fabrics from fraying at the corners of the gusset, you can stitch again from the wrong side of the hand stitches of thread out of fabric articles, or other threads, well-chosen color. The same can be done from the front side.