BLOUSE

Styles of blouses are very diverse (Fig. 31). When selecting the style of blouse you need to consider its purpose and texture of fabric. 

For work and study practical and comfortable blouse in classic style, in the form of men's shirts. They are suitable for silk, wool, polyester, staple, cotton, satin. The fabric can be dyed or printed. Very popular figures in stripe, plaid, polka dots, geometric pattern. 

In constructive and decorative design applied business blouses and Flirty, strap, pockets, folds, tucks. Finishes are bows, metal buttons and cuff links.

Dressy blouses are sewn from nylon, nylon, velvet, brocade, silk and lace fabrics. Blouse decorated with ruffles, lace, ruffle, frill, embroidery. 

BLOUSE WITH SET-IN SLEEVES 

The drawing of the pattern of this blouse (Fig. 32) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

 Draw the pattern of the back and shelves. On the left side of a sheet of paper, 7 cm from upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the back to the waist line plus 20 cm, and put points A and N (Fig. 33, a). 

Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 The width of the blouse. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm and put the point B. 
AB = 48 + 5 = 53 cm 
From point To lowered down the perpendicular to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection represent N. 

 Back length to the waist line. From point A down the line an lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put the point T. 
at = 38 + 0,5 = 38,5 cm 
From point T to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line VN, the point of intersection represent T. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right of the line AB lay the measure of the width of the back plus 1.5 cm and put a point A. 
A = 18 a 1.5 = 19.5 cm 

 Width of the openings. From the point A right on a horizontal line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 0.5 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 48 : 4 + 0,5 = 12,5 cm
Point A and A omit the perpendiculars to the line AB of arbitrary length. 

 The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 
From point A raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.8 cm, and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 10 + 0,8 = 2,6 cm 
Angle AAA divide in half, from point A line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.3 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 10 - 0,3 = 1,5 cm
Point A, A, And connect a smooth concave line. 

 The shoulder cut of the back. From the point A down on a vertical line lay 2.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 1.5 cm - for high shoulders, 3.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. 
the Point P A and connect with a straight line, on which lay the measure the shoulder length plus 1.6 - 2 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 cm on landing, and put a point P. 
AP = 13,5 + 1,6 + 0,5 = 15,6 cm 

 Build Darts from the shoulder cut , see Fig. 196. 

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm and put a point G.
PG= 48 : 4 + 7 = 19 see 
For hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm (48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6.5 cm (48 : 4 + 6,5 = 18.5 cm). 
Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection with a line represent an H, with a line 
width of openings - G and line VN - G. 

 Cut the armhole of the back. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2cm and put a point P. 
GP = GP : 3 + 2 = 19 : 3 + 2 = 8,3 see
Angle PGG divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.5 cm and put a point P. 
GP = 12,5 : 10 + 1,5 = 2.8 cm 
Line GG divided in half, the point of division denote G. 
Point P, P, G, G connect a smooth line. 

 The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm and put a point P. 
HP = 48 : 4 + 5 = 17, see 
From point hold P left horizontal line, which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P.
PP = 48 : 10 = 4,8 cm
From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 cut GP and put a point P. 
GP = GP : 3= 17 : 3 = 5.7 cm 
Point P and P connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half PP from the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 cm, getting the point 1. 
Angle PGG divide in half, from point G line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm and put a point P. 
GP = 12,5 : 10 + 0,8 = 2,1 see 
the Point P, 1, P, P, G connect a smooth concave line. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From the point P up the line NOW lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest, plus 1.5 cm and put a dot B. 
GV = 48 : 2 + 1,5 = 25,5 cm 
For the hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 0.5 cm (48 : 2 x 0.5 = 24.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest, plus a 2.5 cm (48 : 4 + 2,5 = 26.5 cm). 
From the point P up the line GA delay value of the segment HV, and put a point W. Points B and F connect with a straight line. 
From the point B to the left of the line VV lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a point W.
WW = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 
From point B downwards in a vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2cm and put a point W. 
WW = 18 : 3 + 2 = 8 see 
Point W and W connect the dotted line, divide it in half. The point dividing the join the dotted line from point B. From point B on this line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point W. 
WW = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see 
Point W, V, W connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G left on a horizontal line lay the measure of center. chest, you end G.
From the point G raise up perpendicular to the line VV, the point of intersection with this line indicate W. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point V down the vertical line delay measurements height chest (27 cm) and put a point G. 

 Shoulder cut line tuck. From the point V down postpone 1 cm and put a point W. Point V W and connect with a straight line. 
Point W and P connect the dotted line. From the point P right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length, minus the amount cut VV, minus 0.3 cm and put a point W. 
PV = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm
Point G W and connect with a straight line, the continuation of which point G delay value of the segment BG, and put a point W. Point V P and connect with a straight line. 

 The line side of the slice. From the point G to the right of the line GG lay 1/3 of the width of the openings, and put a point G. 
GG = 12,5 : 3 = 4.2 cm 
From the point G lowered perpendicular to the line of the bottom, the point of intersection with the line of the waist and bottom respectively designate T and N. 

 The calculation of the depth of the tucks at the waist. If the shirt needs to be slim, you need to make Darts. To determine the value of the solution tucks need to find the difference between the width of the scarf on the chest (with allowance for the free fit) and the width of the scarf at your waist line (in this case: 53 - 38 = 15 cm). If to distribute this difference on the tucks, the blouse is close-fitting waist line. To measure the poluobhvat waist, you can add 2 - 4 cm in a free fit (38 + 2 = 40 cm), then subtract the resulting value from the width of the product (53 - 40 = 13 cm).
The value of the solution front tuck 0.25 General solution (13 x 0,25 = 3,25 cm). The value of the solution side tuck is 0.45 General solution (13 x 0.45 = 5,85 cm). The amount of solution back tuck equal to 0.3 of the General solution (13 x 0.3 = 3.9 cm). 

 The side cut. To calculate the width of the scarf at the hip line to measure the poluobhvat hips add 2cm for loose fit (for all sizes), from the obtained value subtracted the width of the blouse received when creation of the drawing between the points N and N (53 + 2 - 53 = 2 cm).
The resulting value is distributed evenly between the front and back (2 : 2 = 1 cm). From the point N left and right postpone 1 cm and put points N and N. 
From the point C left and right at the waist lay on the half of the depth of the solution side tuck and dot T and T. 
Point T and T connect straight lines from point G and continue the lines up to the line of openings.
Point T, N and T, N connect the dotted lines, the distance between the points divided in half, points in the direction of line sides raise perpendiculars. which lay at 0.5 cm plotting points connect the dots T, N and T, N smooth lines. 

 The length of the shelves to the waist line. From point B down the line VN lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put a point T (43 x 0.5 = 43.5 cm). Point T and T connect a smooth line. 

 The bottom line of the front. A vertical line VN continue down from point N down the line delay value of the segment TC, and put a point N. Point N and N connect a smooth line. 

 Line Board. From points V and N right conduct horizontal lines, which lay at 2 - 2.5 cm and connect the resulting points with a straight line. 

 Making Darts on the back. The distance between points G and H divided in half, the point of division denote G. From the point G lowered perpendicular to the intersection line at the bottom. The point of intersection with the waist line represent T, with the bottom line - N. From the point C left and right at the waist lay on the half of the depth of the back Darts and dots T and T. From the point G down the line GN lay 3 to 4 cm from the point N up lay 4 - 5 cm Obtained point linking is slightly concave lines with dots T and T. 

 The design of the tuck on the shelf. Through the point G down, spend a vertical line. The point of intersection with the center line of waist and line the bottom indicate T and N. From the point C left and right at the waist lay on the half depth front tuck and dot T and T. From the point G down on a vertical line lay 5 cm from the point N up on a vertical line lay 5 see plotting points connect smooth lines with dots T and T. 

 Draw the pattern straight sleeves. On the left side of the paper spend a vertical straight line, on which lay scoop sleeve length (58 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 33, b). 
Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 Sleeve width. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the measure of the circumference of the hand plus 7 cm and put a point In (29 + 7 = 36 cm). 
From point To lowered perpendicular to the line of the bottom, the point of intersection represent N. 

 The height of the top part of the sleeve. From point A down the line an lay 3/4 of the depth of the armhole of the back and put the point O. 
AO = 19 : 4 x 3 = 14,4 cm
From a point On the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line VN, the point of intersection represent A. 
Line OE divided into six equal parts, the points of division denote O, O, O, O, O. Through each point of division conduct a vertical line to the intersection with the line AB. The point of intersection denote A, A, A, A, A. 
From the point A up the line OA lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 1 cm and put a point A (14,4 : 3 - 1 = 3.8 cm). 
From the point A down the line AO lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 1.8 cm and put a point A (14,4 : 3 - 1,8 = 3cm).
From the point A down the line AO lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 1.3 cm and put a point A (14,4 : 3 - 1,3 = 3.5 cm). 
From the point A up the line OA lay 1/6 of the height of the top part of the sleeves and put a point A (14,4 : 6 = 2.4 cm). 
Line OE divided into three equal parts, the right point of division denote A. 

 Line of lifts the shoulders. Point On, A, A, A, A, A, A, A connect a smooth line. 

 The middle line of the sleeve. Line AO continue downward, the point of intersection with the bottom line indicate N. 

 Line the bottom of the sleeves. The distance between the points N, N divided in half, the dividing point is lowered down the perpendicular, on which lay a 1 cm Distance between points N, N divided in half, the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 see plotting points connect smooth line with points H, N and N. 

 Sleeve length 3/4. From point A lay down measure the length of the 3/4 sleeves (44 - 46 cm) and put a point R. From point R to the right hold the horizontal line to the intersection with the line VN. The point of intersection represent R. Further construction drawing of a 3/4 sleeve similar to the construction drawing long sleeves. 

 Length short sleeve. From point A down the line lay length scoop short-sleeves (25 - 26 cm) and put a point L. From point L to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line VN. The point of intersection represent L, the point of intersection with the line AN indicate L. The distance between points L and L divided in half, the dividing point down a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm Distance between points L and L divided in half, the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm plotting points connect smooth lines with points L, L, L.