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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Blouse with short cap sleeves


The drawing of the pattern of this blouse (Fig. 40) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat neck  18 Breast height  27
Poluobhvat chest  48 Back width.  18
Poluobhvat waist  38 Shoulder length  13,5
Poluobhvat hips  53 The center of the chest  9,5
Back length to the waist line  38 Sleeve length  6
Front length to the waist line  43    


Before the creation of the drawing pattern, to make a preliminary calculation. 

 Blouse width is equal to the measure of poluobhvat chest plus 4 cm (48 + 4 = 52 cm). 

 Back width is equal to the measure of the width of the back, plus 1.5 cm (18 + 1,5 = 19,5 cm). 

 The width of the openings is 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest minus 1 cm (48 : 4 - 1 = 11 cm). 

 The width of the front equal to the width of the blouse minus the width of the back and armholes (52 - 19,5 - 11 = 21.5 cm). 

 Building a drawing pattern back. On the left side of the sheet of paper 5 cm from the upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the back to the waist line plus 20 cm (38 + 20 = 58 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 41, a). 
Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the width of the back (19.5 cm on a preliminary calculation) and put a point A. 
From the point O lowered down the perpendicular. 

 The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a point A.
AA = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 
From point A raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.2 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 10 + 1,2 = 3 cm 
Angle AAA divide in half, from point A line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.1 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 10 - 0,1 = 1.7 cm 
Point A, A, And connect a smooth concave line. 

 Shoulder cut. From the point A down on a vertical line lay 1.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 0.5 cm for the upper shoulder, 2.5 cm, for shoulders and put a point P.
A point P and connect by a straight line on which the points lay A measure the shoulder length plus 1.6 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 cm for planting, and put a point P. 
AP = 13,5 + 1,6 + 0,5 = 15,6 cm 

 Depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 9 = 21, refer 
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9.5 cm (48 : 4 + 9,5 = 21.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8.5 cm (48 : 4 + 8,5 = 20.5 cm).
Through the point G to the left, spend a horizontal line to the intersection with line an. The point of intersection designated by the letter G. From the point G to the right is carried out a horizontal line of arbitrary length. 

 The width of the openings. From the point G to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point G (11 : 2 = 5.5 cm). 
From the point G lowered perpendicular to the line of the bottom, the point of intersection with the line of waist and line the bottom indicate T and N. 

 The upper section of the sleeve. Through the points P and A carried out right straight line. From the point P this line to the right lay the measure of the length of the sleeve (6 cm) and put a point P. 
From the point P radius equal PP, conduct the arc. From the point P down in an arc lay 1/4 measurements length sleeves and put a point P (6 : 4 = 1.5 cm). 
Point P and P connect a smooth line. 

 Cut the armhole of the back. From point G up the line HE lay 1/3 of the value of the distance GP plus 1 cm and put a point G. 
GH = GP : 3 + 1 = 21 : 3 + 1 = 8 see 
From the point G hold right horizontal line, which lay 2 cm, and put a point P.
Point P and P connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half PP from the dividing point to the left raise up perpendicular, which lay 0.5 cm, put a dot of 0.5. Angle GGG divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 2.4 cm and put a point P. 
HP = 11 : 10 + 2,4 = 3,5 cm 
Point P, 0.5, And P, P, G connect a smooth line. 

 The waist line. From the point T to the left of the line lay 2.5 cm and put a point T. 
Point T G and connect with a straight line. 

 Construction drawing patterns shelves. On the right side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the front plus 20 cm, and put the points In and N (Fig. 41, b). 
Through the points and H to the left, hold the horizontal line. 

 The depth of the armhole. From a point down the vertical line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 2cm and put a point G. 
VG = 48 : 2 + 2 = 26 cm 
For the hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 1 cm (48 : 2 + 1 = 25 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 3cm (48 : 2 + 3 = 27 cm). 
From point G to the left, spend a horizontal line.

 The width of the shelves. From a point to the left along a horizontal line lay the width of the front (21.5 cm on a preliminary calculation) and put a point A. From the point A lowered perpendicular to the line of the chest, the point of intersection represent G. 

 The width of the openings. From the point G left on a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point G. 
GG = 11 : 2 = 5.5 cm 
From point G lowered perpendicular to the line of bottom. The point of intersection with the bottom line indicate N. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From a point to the left along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a dot B. 
W = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 
From a point down the vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point W. 
W = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7,5 cm 
Point B and W connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half VW, the point of division is connected to the point B. From point b on this line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point W. 
W = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see 
Point B, V, W connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G to the left on the line lay GG measure the distance between the highest points of the breast (9.5 cm) and put a point G. 
From the point G raise up perpendicular to the line WA. The point of intersection represent V. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point U down the perpendicular lay the measure of the height of the breast (27 cm) and put a point G. 

 Shoulder cut to tuck. From the point B down on a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point W. Point V and B connect by a straight line. From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6 cm and put the point P. 
HP = 48 : 4 + 6 = 18 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5.5 cm (48 : 4 + 5,5 = 17.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6.5 cm (48 : 4 + 6,5 = 18.5 cm). Through the point P to the left hold horizontal line on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). Point P and V connect the dotted line. From the point P right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of VB, minus 0.3 cm and put a point P. 
PP = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10.2 cm 

 Line tuck. Point G and P connect a straight line on which the points lay G cut GW and put a point P. 

 Shoulder cut top cut sleeves. Point P connect a straight line with a point P and continue this line to the left. From the point P on this line lay the yardstick length sleeves and put a point P (PP = 6 cm). From the point P radius PP hold an arc. From the point P down in an arc lay 1/4 measurements length sleeves and put a point P. 
PB = 6 : 4 = 1.5 cm 
Point P and P connect a smooth line. 

 Cut armholes. From the point P up the line HE lay 1/3 cut GP and put a point G.
GG = GP : 3 = 18 : 3 = 6 cm 
From a point to the left G spend a horizontal line where you lay (point H) 1.5 cm, and put a point P. Point P and P connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half PP from the dividing point to the right to line PP raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 cm, getting the point 1. Angle GGG divide in half, from point G line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 2.1 cm and put a point P. 
HP = 11 : 10 + 2,1 = 3,2 see 
the Point P, 1, P, P, G connect a smooth concave line. 

 The waist line. From a point down the vertical line lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put a point T (W = 43 x 0.5 = 43.5 cm). From the point G down the vertical lines of the delay value of the segment GT (drawing back) and put a point T. T point and T connect a smooth line. From the point T right at the waist lay 2.5 cm and put a point T. Point T G and connect with a straight line. 

 The bottom line is. From the point C down the line GN delay value of the segment TN (drawing back) and put a point N. Point N and N connect a smooth line. 

 The calculation of the width of the blouse at the hips. To measure the poluobhvat hips add 2cm for loose fit and subtract the amount of poluobhvat hips, obtained during the building of the drawing patterns of the back and shelves. The result is distributed equally between the front and back (53 + 2 = 55 cm; 55 - 25 - 27 = 3 cm; 3 : 2 = 1.5 cm). 

 Side cut backless (see Fig. 41, a). From the point N right lay 1.5 cm and put a point N. Point N and T connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half TN, from the points of division upon the earth perpendicular to the line TN, which is Obtained delaying 0.5 cm point connect a smooth line with points T, N.

Cut the side shelves (see Fig. 41, b). From the point N lay to the left of 1.5 cm and put a point On. Point On connect a smooth line with a point N and the dashed line with the point T. The dotted line NT divide in half, from the dividing point to the left to line TN raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points T and N. 

 Draw Darts at the waist , see Fig. 53 in the first article of the section "Dresses"

 The layout pattern and cutting fabric. Pattern pieces laid on fabric, aligning the direction of the grain lines indicated in the drawing, with the direction of the grain lines of the fabric. They outline the pattern with chalk, making the seam (Fig. 42).



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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