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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Bra


The various styles of bras. In Fig. 3 shows a bra with cups and wide set straps. 
For bras recommended thick cotton or silk fabric: damask, satin, satin, etc.
the drawing pattern of the bra must be removed following measurements (in cm): 
Poluobhvat chest............ 48 
under Poluobhvat chest... 40 
Length straps................. 38 

 draw a pattern bottom part of the bra. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest and put the point G, (48 : 4 = 12 cm). Through the points G and to the right And spend a horizontal line (Fig. 4, a). 
From the point G to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat under the chest plus 1 cm and put a point G 
(40 + 1 = 41 cm). Through the point G spend a vertical line down. The point of intersection with the lower line indicate A. 

 The cutout for the cups. From the point G left on a horizontal line delay of 1.5 cm and put a point G. From the point G the left on line GG lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat breast plus 3 inches and put a point G (GG = 48 : 4 + 3 = 15 cm). 
The distance between the points G and H divided in half, the point of division denote G (15 : 2 = 7.5 cm). From the point P drop the perpendicular, which (from the point G) lay 1/8 measurements of poluobhvat chest, plus 1.5 cm and put a point G. 
GG = 48 : 8 + 1,5 = 7,5 cm 
Point G, G, G connect a smooth concave line. 

 Line front the cut. From the point I left postpone 1 cm and put a point A. From points G and G lay down 1 cm and connect the resulting points 1 and 1', and points 1 and A straight lines.

 Line clasps. From point A up the line AG lay 4 cm and put a point A. 

 Line the upper edge. Point A and G connect the dotted line. Cut AS divide in half, from the points of division upon the earth perpendicular to the line AG, which lay 2 see Point 2 solinet a smooth line with points A and G. 

 Draw a pattern bottom of the Cup (Fig. 4, b). On the left side of the drawing, spend a vertical line, on which lay the 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest minus 1 cm and put the G-spot and G. 
GG = 48 : 4 - 1 = 11 cm. 
Through the points G and H hold right horizontal line. From the point G to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm and put a point G. 
GG = 48 : 4 + 5 = 17, see 
point G spend a vertical line down. The point of intersection of this line with the bottom indicate G. 

 Line the bottom of the Cup. Line GG divided in half, the point of division denote G. From the point G down perpendicular to the bottom line, the point of intersection represent G. Line GG divide in half, from the points of division down delay 0.5 cm and put a point G. Through the point G right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line GH. The point of intersection with this line indicate G. Point G, G, G, G connect straight dotted lines. The obtained segments divided from the points raise perpendiculars, on which lay 1 see plotting points connect smooth lines with dots G, H, G, G.

 Construction drawing of patterns the upper part of the calyx (Fig. 4). On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the 1/8 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 2cm and put the points In, B. 
W = 48 : 8 + 2 = 8, see 
Through the points In B to the right and spend a horizontal line. 
From a point In the right on a horizontal line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm and put a point W. 
W = 48 : 4 + 8 = 20 cm 
Through the point U spend a vertical line down. The point of intersection with the bottom line indicate W. 

 Line the top of the cups. Line W divided in half, the point of division denote V. From the point M drop the perpendicular on the bottom line. The point of intersection with the lower line indicate W. Line W divided into three equal parts. The lower point of division denote V. Through the point V right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line VV. The point of intersection with this line indicate W. Point V, W, U connect straight dotted lines. Segments VW and VV divide in half, from points lower down the perpendiculars, on which lay 0.5 cm and Then connect the resulting points with a smooth line with points V, W, W. From the point B down the line VV postpone 1 cm and put a point W. Through the point to the left W spend a horizontal line, on which lay 1.5 cm and put a point W. Point V connect a straight line with a point W.
From a point down the vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point W. Through the point V hold right horizontal line, which lay 1.5 cm and put a point W. Point V connect with point B a straight line. 
Point W, V, W connect a smooth line. 

 Place of primaqiune straps. From the point V right lay 2 cm and put a point W. From the point A right on the line AH lay 7 cm and put a point A (see Fig. 4,a). 

 The layout pattern and cutting fabric. Fabric fold double common thread, pattern pieces are laid out, combining the lobe filament fabric with the direction of the grain lines in the drawing. To cut without adding to the seams. Cut out cups with padding and lining. 
Cut out strips of fabric: 
1) strap width 4 cm, length 38 cm (two pieces); 
2) to process the buckle width 4 cm, length 6 cm (two pieces); 
3) for loops with a width of 2 cm, length 4 - 6 cm (three pieces);
4) for processing the upper sections of the bra - oblique strips of width 2.5 - 3 see the Upper section of the bra can be sheathed with braid. For vrachevanie cups cut slanting strips of width 2.5 - 3 cm, length 28 - 32 cm 

 Sewing. Grind off the front sections of the bra, the seams rautureau. Front side seam rasstraivaet 1 - 2 mm from the grinding. Details of top smatyvay gasket parts lining smatyvay separately. Instead of laying you can attach a thin layer of foam. Medium-sized slices of cups to grind, strip-side seam cut to machine stitching, the seams rautureau. Details cups the uppers and lining are folded wrong side inside, smatyvay. Then, in an oblique direction of the lower part of the calyx vystragivajut on the machine. Ready a Cup stachivaya in the lower part of the bra.Seam rautureau on both sides, a little cut, and then weld the cuts closed oblique stripe, which is scribbled at 1 mm from the edge. The width of the strip in ready-made 1 - 1.5 cm.
To the right side of the clasp of the bra from the front side primetyvajut already processed loop, then place face on the front side of the bra strap under the loop, all the details smatyvay the zipper and sew on the machine. Then the bar bent towards the inside, spawn and prostrachivajut. Similarly treated and the left side of the zipper (but without loops). Then primetyvajut treated straps, grind off part of the oblique stripes and handles the upper section of the bra.The lower section of the bra can bend and hem same fabric or to process an equity strip of cloth or braid.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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