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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Cap Bathrobe

The drawing of the pattern of this robe (Fig. 18, the figure on the right) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat neck  18 Breast height  27
Poluobhvat chest  48 The center of the chest  9,5
Poluobhvat hips  53 Back width.  18
Back length to the waist line  38 Shoulder length  13,5
Front length to the waist line  43 The gown  105


 Draw the pattern of the back and shelves. On the left side of the sheet of paper 5 centimeters from the upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the robe (105 cm), and put points A and N. Through points A and N right spend a horizontal line (Fig. 19). 

 The width of the robe. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 6 cm (allowance for loose fit) and put a point B. 
AB = 48 + 6 = 54, see 
point To spend a vertical line down the point of intersection with the bottom line indicate N. 

 Back length to the waist line. From point A down the line an lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put a point T (38 + 0,5 = 38.5 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line VN, the point of intersection represent T. 

 Line of the hips. From T point down the line an lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right is carried out in a horizontal line, the point of intersection with the line VN indicate B. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right of the line AB lay the measure of the width of the back plus 1.8 cm and put a point A. 
A = 18 + 1,8 = 19,8 cm

 The width of the openings. From the point A to the right of the line AB lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 0.7 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 48 : 4 + 0,7 = 12,7 cm 
Through A and A spend a vertical line.

 The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right along the line AB. lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.8 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 3 + 0,8 = 6,8 cm
For shapes with fatty deposits in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra the width of the neck backless increasing at 0.5 cm From point A raise up perpendicular to the line A at which point A up delay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.8 cm, and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 10 + 0,8 = 2,6 cm 
Angle AAA divide in half, from point A line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.3 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 10 - 0,3 = 1.5 cm 
Point A, A and connect a smooth line. 

 Shoulder cut. From the point A down on a vertical line lay 2.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 1.5 cm - for high shoulders, 3.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. the Point P A and connect with a straight line on which the points lay to the right A measure the shoulder length plus 1.6 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 cm for planting, and put a point P. 
AP = 13,5 + 1,6 + 0,5 = 15,6 cm 

 Build Darts from the shoulder cut of the back, see Fig. 196. 

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm (48 : 4 + 8 = 20 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm (48 : 4 + 7 = 19 cm). Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of an outline G, with a line width of openings - G and line VN - G. 

 Cut the armhole of the back. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2cm and put a point P. 
GP = 19,5 : 3 + 2 = 8.5 cm
The angle at the point PGG divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.8 cm and put a point P. 
GP = 12,7 : 10 + 1,8 = 3.1 cm 
Line GG divide in half and put a point G. Point P, P, P and G connect a smooth line. 

 The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5.5 cm and put a point P. 
HP = 48 : 4 + 5,5 = 17,5 cm 
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm (48 : 4 + 5 = 17 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6 cm (48 : 4 + 6 = 18 cm).
Through the point to the left P spend a horizontal line on which the points lay P 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance GP and put a point P. Point P and P connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half PP, from the points of division at right angles to the dotted lines to the right lay 1 cm, getting the point 1. Angle PGG divide in half, from point G line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.1 cm and put a point P. 
GP = 12,7 : 10 + 1,1 = 2,4 cm
Point P, 1, P, P and G connect a smooth line. 

 Line sides. From the point G to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the width of the openings, and put a point G (12,7 : 3 = 4.2 cm). Through the point G spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line. Point of its intersection with the line of the waist, hips and bottom respectively designate T, B and N. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From the point P up the line NOW lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 2cm and put a dot B. GV = 48 : 2 + 2 = 26 
For the hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 1 cm (48 : 2 + 1 = 25 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 3cm (48 : 2 + 3 = 27 cm). 
From the point P up the line GO aside an amount equal to HV segment and put a point W. Points B and F connect with a straight line. From the point B to the left along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.8 cm and put a point W. 
WW = 18 : 3 + 0,8 = 6,8 cm 
From point B downwards in a vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2cm and put a point W. 
WW = 18 : 3 + 2 = 8 cm.
Point V and V connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half WV, point dividing the join the dotted line from point B. From point B on this line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point W. 
WW = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see 
Point W, W and W connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G line GH to the left lay the measure of center of the chest (9.5 cm) and put a point G. Through the point G spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line VV. The point of intersection represent V. 

 She car chest. From the point V down the vertical line delay measurements height chest (27 cm) and put a point G. 

 Shoulder cut line tuck shelves. From the point B down on a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point W. Point V W and connect with a straight line. Point P and V connect the dotted line. From the point P right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of VB, minus 0.3 cm and put a point W. 
PV = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm
Point G and V connect a straight line on which the point G up delay period equal to the segment HV, and put a point W. Point V P and connect with a straight line. Tuck the top of the shoulder cut can be translated into a lateral cut. Translations of Darts, see below. 

 Product width at the hip line. To calculate the width of the scarf at the hip line to measure the poluobhvat hips add 3 - 4 cm for loose fit. From the obtained value subtracted the width of the robe is obtained when constructing the drawing, shelves and back between the points B and B (53 + 4 = 57 cm, 57 - 54 = 3 cm). The resulting value is divided equally between the shelf and the backrest (3 : 2 = 1.5 cm). From the point B left and right lay at 1.5 cm and dots B and B. 

 Line of the side cut backless. Through G and B spend a straight line, the intersection of this line and the bottom line represent N, waist T. 

 The line side of the slice shelves. Through G and B spend a straight line, the intersection of this line and the bottom line represent N, waist T. 

 The waist line the shelves. From point B down the line VN lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put a point T (43 x 0.5 = 43.5 cm). Point T and T connect a smooth line. 

 The hips of the shelves. From the point B lay down a segment equal to segment TC, and put a point B. Point B and B connect a smooth line. 

 Line the bottom of the shelves. A vertical line VN continue down. From the point N down the line delay value of the segment TT and put a point N. Point N and N connect a smooth line. 

 Line Board. Through the point V hold right horizontal line, which lay 3 to 4 cm, and put a point O. From point N hold right horizontal line, which lay 4 to 5 cm, and put a point O. Point O and connect with a straight line and continue the line up to 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with a point W. 
The location of the pocket shown in the drawing figures. 

 The construction of the sleeve robe is the same as building straight sleeves for blouses with set-in sleeves the only difference is that to measure the circumference of the hand add 7 and 8 cm (see Fig. 33, a, b).



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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