The drawing of the pattern of this robe (Fig. 18, the figure on the right) must be removed following measurements (in cm):
Poluobhvat neck |
18 |
Breast height |
27 |
Poluobhvat chest |
48 |
The center of the chest |
9,5 |
Poluobhvat hips |
53 |
Back width. |
18 |
Back length to the waist line |
38 |
Shoulder length |
13,5 |
Front length to the waist line |
43 |
The gown |
105 |
Draw the pattern of the back and shelves. On the left side of the sheet of paper 5 centimeters from the upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the robe (105 cm), and put points A and N. Through points A and N right spend a horizontal line (Fig. 19).
The width of the robe. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 6 cm (allowance for loose fit) and put a point B.
AB = 48 + 6 = 54, see
point To spend a vertical line down the point of intersection with the bottom line indicate N.
Back length to the waist line. From point A down the line an lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put a point T (38 + 0,5 = 38.5 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line VN, the point of intersection represent T.
Line of the hips. From T point down the line an lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right is carried out in a horizontal line, the point of intersection with the line VN indicate B.
The width of the backrest. From point A to the right of the line AB lay the measure of the width of the back plus 1.8 cm and put a point A.
A = 18 + 1,8 = 19,8 cm
The width of the openings. From the point A to the right of the line AB lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 0.7 cm and put a point A.
AA = 48 : 4 + 0,7 = 12,7 cm
Through A and A spend a vertical line.
The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right along the line AB. lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.8 cm and put a point A.
AA = 18 : 3 + 0,8 = 6,8 cm
For shapes with fatty deposits in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra the width of the neck backless increasing at 0.5 cm From point A raise up perpendicular to the line A at which point A up delay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.8 cm, and put a point A.
AA = 18 : 10 + 0,8 = 2,6 cm
Angle AAA divide in half, from point A line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.3 cm and put a point A.
AA = 18 : 10 - 0,3 = 1.5 cm
Point A, A and connect a smooth line.
Shoulder cut. From the point A down on a vertical line lay 2.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 1.5 cm - for high shoulders, 3.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. the Point P A and connect with a straight line on which the points lay to the right A measure the shoulder length plus 1.6 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 cm for planting, and put a point P.
AP = 13,5 + 1,6 + 0,5 = 15,6 cm
Build Darts from the shoulder cut of the back, see Fig. 196.
The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm and put a point G
PG = 48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm (48 : 4 + 8 = 20 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm (48 : 4 + 7 = 19 cm). Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of an outline G, with a line width of openings - G and line VN - G.
Cut the armhole of the back. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2cm and put a point P.
GP = 19,5 : 3 + 2 = 8.5 cm
The angle at the point PGG divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.8 cm and put a point P.
GP = 12,7 : 10 + 1,8 = 3.1 cm
Line GG divide in half and put a point G. Point P, P, P and G connect a smooth line.
The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5.5 cm and put a point P.
HP = 48 : 4 + 5,5 = 17,5 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm (48 : 4 + 5 = 17 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6 cm (48 : 4 + 6 = 18 cm).
Through the point to the left P spend a horizontal line on which the points lay P 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance GP and put a point P. Point P and P connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half PP, from the points of division at right angles to the dotted lines to the right lay 1 cm, getting the point 1. Angle PGG divide in half, from point G line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.1 cm and put a point P.
GP = 12,7 : 10 + 1,1 = 2,4 cm
Point P, 1, P, P and G connect a smooth line.
Line sides. From the point G to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the width of the openings, and put a point G (12,7 : 3 = 4.2 cm). Through the point G spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line. Point of its intersection with the line of the waist, hips and bottom respectively designate T, B and N.
The cut of the neckline shelves. From the point P up the line NOW lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 2cm and put a dot B. GV = 48 : 2 + 2 = 26
For the hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 1 cm (48 : 2 + 1 = 25 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 3cm (48 : 2 + 3 = 27 cm).
From the point P up the line GO aside an amount equal to HV segment and put a point W. Points B and F connect with a straight line. From the point B to the left along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.8 cm and put a point W.
WW = 18 : 3 + 0,8 = 6,8 cm
From point B downwards in a vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2cm and put a point W.
WW = 18 : 3 + 2 = 8 cm.
Point V and V connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half WV, point dividing the join the dotted line from point B. From point B on this line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point W.
WW = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see
Point W, W and W connect a smooth concave line.
The center of the chest. From the point G line GH to the left lay the measure of center of the chest (9.5 cm) and put a point G. Through the point G spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line VV. The point of intersection represent V.
She car chest. From the point V down the vertical line delay measurements height chest (27 cm) and put a point G.
Shoulder cut line tuck shelves. From the point B down on a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point W. Point V W and connect with a straight line. Point P and V connect the dotted line. From the point P right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of VB, minus 0.3 cm and put a point W.
PV = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm
Point G and V connect a straight line on which the point G up delay period equal to the segment HV, and put a point W. Point V P and connect with a straight line. Tuck the top of the shoulder cut can be translated into a lateral cut. Translations of Darts, see below.
Product width at the hip line. To calculate the width of the scarf at the hip line to measure the poluobhvat hips add 3 - 4 cm for loose fit. From the obtained value subtracted the width of the robe is obtained when constructing the drawing, shelves and back between the points B and B (53 + 4 = 57 cm, 57 - 54 = 3 cm). The resulting value is divided equally between the shelf and the backrest (3 : 2 = 1.5 cm). From the point B left and right lay at 1.5 cm and dots B and B.
Line of the side cut backless. Through G and B spend a straight line, the intersection of this line and the bottom line represent N, waist T.
The line side of the slice shelves. Through G and B spend a straight line, the intersection of this line and the bottom line represent N, waist T.
The waist line the shelves. From point B down the line VN lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put a point T (43 x 0.5 = 43.5 cm). Point T and T connect a smooth line.
The hips of the shelves. From the point B lay down a segment equal to segment TC, and put a point B. Point B and B connect a smooth line.
Line the bottom of the shelves. A vertical line VN continue down. From the point N down the line delay value of the segment TT and put a point N. Point N and N connect a smooth line.
Line Board. Through the point V hold right horizontal line, which lay 3 to 4 cm, and put a point O. From point N hold right horizontal line, which lay 4 to 5 cm, and put a point O. Point O and connect with a straight line and continue the line up to 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with a point W.
The location of the pocket shown in the drawing figures.
The construction of the sleeve robe is the same as building straight sleeves for blouses with set-in sleeves the only difference is that to measure the circumference of the hand add 7 and 8 cm (see Fig. 33, a, b).
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