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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Cloak for cutting the yoke with Raglan sleeves

The drawing of the pattern of this Cape (Fig. 157) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat neck  18 Back width.  18
Poluobhvat chest  48 Shoulder length  13,5
Back length to the waist line  38 Length of cloak  103
Front length to the waist line  43 Sleeve length  58
Breast height  27    


 A preliminary calculation. Before the creation of the drawing pattern cloak with sleeves are Raglan cut, to make a preliminary calculation. 

 The width of the cloak on the chest equal measure of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm (48 + 8 = 56 cm). 

 Back width is equal to the measure of the width of the back plus 2,5 cm (18 of + 2.5 = 20.5 cm). 

 The width of the openings is 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 2 cm (48 : 4 + 2 = 14 cm). 

 The width of the front equal to the width of the cloak on the chest minus the width of back and width of the armhole (56 - 20,5 - 14 = 21.5 cm). 

 Construction drawing patterns backless. On the left side of a sheet of paper at a distance of 7 cm from the upper edge spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the cloak (103 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 158). Through points A and N to the right is carried out horizontally. 

 Length to the waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 2cm and put a point T (38 + 2 = 40 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line. 

 Length to the hip line. From point T down on a vertical line lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right spend a horizontal line. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the width of the back (on a preliminary calculation) and put a point A1 (AA1 = 20.5 cm). 

 The width of the openings. From the point A1 to the right on a horizontal line lay the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point A2 (A1A2 = 14 cm). Through the points A1 and A2 is carried out vertical lines down. 

 Line neck backless. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point A3. 
AA3 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7,5 cm 
For shapes of the body fat in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra the width of the neck increased by 0.5 cm Through the point A3 is carried up the vertical line on which the point A3 postpone 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm, and put a point A4. 
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 1 = 2.8 cm 
Angle АА3А4 divide in half, from point A3 at the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.3 cm and put a point A5. 
А3А5 = 18 : 10 - 0,3 = 1,5 cm
The points A4, A5 and connect A smooth concave line. 

 Shoulder cut. From point A1 down in a vertical line lay 4 cm - for normal shoulders, 3 cm high to the shoulder, 5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. the Point A4 and the P connect a straight line. 

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9.5 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 9,5 = 21,5 cm 
For the hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest, plus 10 cm (48 : 4 + 10 = 22 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9 cm (48 : 4 + 9 = 21 cm).
Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line, the intersection of this line with the line G1 of an outline, with the line of openings - G2. 

 The rise of the neck backless. From points A and A4 up vertical lines lay to 0.8 cm and put the points A6 and A7. Points A7 and A6 connect a smooth concave line. 

 Line of the armhole of the back. From the point A7 at the line А7А6 lay 2.5 cm and put a point A8. From the point G upwards in the vertical line delay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 4 cm and put a point P1. 
ГП1 = 48 : 10 + 4 = 8,8 cm
Line ГГ2 divide in half and put a point G3. Points A8 and L1, P1 and T3 connect the dotted lines. Cut А8П1 divided into four equal parts, the points of division denote O, O1, O2. From point O1 to lines А8П1 raise a perpendicular of length 0.5 cm and put a point O3. 
Cut П1Г3 divided in half, the dividing point down upon the earth perpendicular to the line P~GZ a length of 1.8 cm and put a point O4. Point A8, O3, O2, O4, G3 connect a smooth line. 
Through the point G3 spend a vertical line to the bottom line, the point of intersection with the line of the waist, hips and bottom denote T1, B1, H1. 

 The middle line of the back. From T point to the right waist postpone 1 cm and put a point T2. Points A6 and T2 connect by a straight line and continue it down. The intersection of this line and the bottom line is denoted H2. 

 Slot. From the point of H2 up lines Н2А6 lay 20 to 25 cm and put a point S. Through the points W and H2 is carried out to the left of the horizontal line, on which lay 3 to 4 cm and put points SH1 and ø2. Points SH1 and R2 connect in a straight line. 

 The side cut. From the point H1 to the right on a horizontal line delay value of the segment НН2 and put a point H3. Point N3 G3 and connect a straight line. 

 The bottom line. From the point H3 up lines Н3Г3 delay of 0.5 cm and put a point H4. Dot H4 connect a straight line with a point of H2. 

 Line of the yoke. From the point G1 up lay 3 to 4 cm and put a point K. from the point K to the right spend a horizontal line to the line of openings. 

 The back half of the sleeve. From point P up raise up perpendicular to the line А4П, which from the point P lay 2 cm, and put a point P2. Point A7 and A2 connect in a straight line and continue the line a distance equal measure the shoulder length plus 1 cm, and put a point P3 (of 13.5 + 1 = 14.5 cm).
From the point A1 to the right of line A1A2 lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest minus 2 cm and put a point P4. 
А1П4 = 48 : 10 - 2 = 2.8 cm 
From point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest or minus 3 cm and put a point P5. 
Г2П5 = 48 : 4 - 3 = 9 see 
Points P4 and P5 connect by a straight line and continue that line down. Points P3 and P5 connect the dotted line, the dotted line is divided in half, the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.4 cm, and put a point P6. Points P3, P6 and P5 connect a smooth line. 

 Sleeve length. From a point P3 on the extension of the line П3П6П5 lay scoop sleeve length (58 cm) and put a point A7. 

 Sleeve width at the bottom. From the point P7 to the line П5П7 down, raise a perpendicular, on which lay the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the model (15 cm), and put a point P8. Cut П7П8 divide in half, from the points of division upon the earth down a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points P7 and P8. 

 Line of the armhole sleeve. From the point P5 to the line П4П7 raise up and down perpendicular. From point O2 with a radius equal to the segment О2Г3 doing on the perpendicular going from point P5, the cut and put a point P9. Points P9 and O2 connect as a dotted line, divide the dotted line between these points into three equal parts. From the bottom of the dividing point to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1.8 cm and put a point O5. Point O2, O5, P9 connect a smooth concave line. 

 Elbow cut. Points P9 and P8 connect the dotted line. From point P3 down the line П3П5П7 delay measurements length sleeves to the elbow plus 2cm and put a point L (32 + 2 = 34 cm). From point L upon the earth perpendicular to the line П4П7 to the intersection with the dashed line, the point of intersection with the dotted line denoted L1. The line LL1 continue to the left by 1 cm and put a point L2. Points P9, L2, P8 connect a smooth line. On the line of the elbow can be cut to make a tuck. The depth of the tuck 1.5 - 2 cm, length 5 - 6 cm On the drawing the tuck shown by the dotted line. 

 Construction drawing patterns shelves. On the right side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure length of cloak plus 5 cm (103 + 5 = 108 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 159). Through points A and H to the left, hold the horizontal line. 

 The depth of the armhole. From point A down the line an lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm and put a point G. 
AG = 48 : 2 + 5 = 29 see 
For hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 4 cm (48 : 2 + 4 = 28 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 6 cm (48 : 2 + 6 = 30 cm). Through the point G to the left, spend a horizontal line.

 The width of the shelves. From point A to the left along a horizontal line lay the width of the front (on a preliminary calculation) and put a point A1 (AA1 = 21.5 cm). 

 The width of the openings. From the point A1 to the left on a horizontal line lay the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point A2 (A1A2 = 14 cm). Through the points A1 and A2 hold the vertical line until intersection with the line of the chest, the point of intersection denoted G1 and G2. 

 Side cut. Cut Г1Г2 divide in half and put a point G3. Through the point G3 spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection denoted H1. From the point G3 down on a vertical line lay a distance equal segments Г3Т1 and Г3Б1 (drawing back), and put the points T and B. 

 Line neckline shelves. From point A to the left along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point A3. 
AA3 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm 
From point A down the line an lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.5 cm and put a point A4. 
АА4 = 18 : 3 + 2,5 = 8,5 see
Points A3 and A4 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half А3А4, point dividing the join the dotted line with point A. From point A along the dotted line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.6 cm and put a point A5. 
АА5 = 18 : 3 + 1,6 = 7,6, see 
Point A3, A5, and A4 connect the smooth concave line. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point G to the left on a horizontal line delay distance equal to the measure of the center of the chest plus 1 cm, and put a point G4 (with 9.5 + 1 = 10.5 cm). Through the point G4 spend a vertical line to the intersection of the line AA1. The point of intersection indicate the A6. From the point A6 down the vertical line delay measurements height chest (27 cm) and put a point G5. 

 The line of the shoulder cut and tuck. From the point A6 down on a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point A7. Points A7 and A3 connect in a straight line. From the point G1 up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8.5 cm and put a point P. 
Г1П = 48 : 4 + 8,5 = 20.5 cm. 
For a hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm (48 : 4 + 8 = 20 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9 cm (48 : 4 + 9 = 21 cm).
Through the point P to the left hold horizontal line on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P1 (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). Points A1 and A7 connect the dotted line. From the point P1 to the right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of А3А7, minus 0.3 cm and put a point P2. 
П1П2 = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2, see 
Through the points G5 and P2 hold a straight line on which the point G5 lay the cut is equal to the right side of the tuck, and put a point P3. 

 Line of the armhole shelves. From the point A3 down the concave line А3А4 lay 3.5 cm and put a point A8. Through the point A8 left spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line А6Г5, the point of intersection denoted A9. From the point A9 down in a vertical line lay 4 cm and put the point a10. Point a10 and A8 combine a smooth and slightly arched line. From point P3 down the line П3Г5 lay a distance equal to the segment А7А10, and put a point A11. From the point G1 up on a vertical line lay 1/4 of the distance Г1П plus 1 cm and put a point A12. 
Г1А12 = 20,5 : 4 + 1 = 6,1 cm
Points A12 and A11, connect the dotted line, divide it in half, the point of division denote A13. From the point A13 to the left, raise a perpendicular of length 0.4 cm and put a point A14. Points A12 and G3 also connected with a dotted line, divide the segment in half А12Г3, from the points of division down, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1.3 cm, and put a point A15. Points A11, A14, A12, A15, G3 connect a smooth line. 

 Front half sleeves. From the point P1 to the left on a horizontal line postpone 1 cm and put a point P4. From the point G3 to the left in horizontal lines lay 2 cm and put a point G6. Points P4 and T6 connect by a straight line and continue that line down. From point P1 on the line П4Г6 make a notch with a radius equal to the distance П3П5 (drawing back), and put a point P5. Points P1 and P5 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half П1П5 from the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular of length 0.5 cm and put a point P6. From the point P1 to the right shoulder lay the slice of 2.5 cm and put a point A7.Points P3, P7, P6, P5, connect a smooth line, continue the line down to scoop sleeve length (58 cm) from point P1 and put a point P8.

 Sleeve width at the bottom. From the point P8 upon the earth perpendicular to the line П4П8, which from the point P8 lay the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the model (15 cm), and put a point P9. Cut П8П9 divided in half, the dividing point upward raise a perpendicular of length 0.5 cm and join the received point with points P8 and P9 a smooth line. 

 Line of the armhole sleeve. From point P5 restore perpendicular to the line П4П8. From point A14 radius equal to the distance А14Г3, make a notch on the perpendicular going from point P5, and put a point a10. Point a10 and the A14 join the dotted line, cut А10А14 divided into three equal parts, from the bottom of the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1.5 cm, and put a point A16. Points A14, A16, P10 connect a smooth concave line. 

 Elbow cut. Points P10 and P9 connect the dotted line. From point P1 down the line П1П8 delay measurements length sleeves to the elbow plus 2cm and put a point L. From point L upon the earth perpendicular to the line П4П8 to the intersection with the dotted line П9П10, the point of intersection denoted L1. From the point L1 to the left line LL1 postpone 1 cm and put a point L2. Points P10, L2, P9 connect a smooth line, 

 the waist Line shelves. From point A down the line an lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist plus 2 cm and put the point T1. 
The points T1 and T connect a smooth line. 

 The hips. From point T1 down the midline of the shelves lay the value of the segment TB and put the point B1. Points B1 and B, connect a smooth line. 

 The bottom line is. From the point G3 down the line Г3Н1 delay value of the segment Г3Н4 (drawing back) and put a point of H2. The points N2 and N, connect a smooth line. 

 Line pockets. Line А6Г4 continue to the waist line and put a point T2. From the point T2 to the left on the waist line lay from 2 to 5 inches and put a point T3. Through the point of T3 down to the hip line is carried out with a dotted vertical line parallel to line an. From the point T3 down the line lay 3 - 5 cm and put a point T4. From the point T4 lay down 15 - 17 cm and put a point T5. From point T5 to the left, hold the horizontal line on which lay 2.5 cm, and put a point T6. Points T6 and T4 connect with a straight line.From points T6 and T4 to the left, raise the perpendiculars, in length equal to the width of the leaves (2.5 - 3 cm), and connect the resulting points with a straight line.

 Line coquette shelves. From point G up lay 2 - 3 cm and put a point K. from the point K to the left, spend a horizontal line to the line of openings. 
Tuck the top of the shoulder cut, can be converted into slice yoke.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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