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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Coat fabrics with water-repellent impregnation on insulation laying


The drawing of the pattern of this coat (Fig. 179) must be removed following measurements (in cm):
 

Poluobhvat neck  18 Shoulder length  13,5
Poluobhvat chest  48 Breast height  27
Poluobhvat waist  38 The center of the chest  9,5
Back length to the waist line  38 Length coat  107
Front length to the waist line  43 Sleeve length  58
Back width.  18 Sleeve length to the elbow  32


 Construction drawing backrest and shelves. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the coat (107 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 180). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 The width of the coat. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest, plus 10 cm and put a point At (48 + 10 = 58 cm). Through the point In spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection denoted H1. 

 Back length to the waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 2cm and put a point T (38 + 2 = 40 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line, the point of intersection with the line ВН1 denote T1. 

 Line of the hips. From point T down on a vertical line lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right is carried out in a horizontal line, the point of intersection with the line ВН1 denote B1. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the measure of the width of the back plus 3 cm and put a point A1.
AA1 = 18 + 3 = 21 see 

 the Width of the openings. From the point A1 to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat breast plus 3 inches and put a point A2.
A1A2 = 48 : 4 + 3 = 15 cm 
Through the points A1 and A2 hold down the vertical line. 

 The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right along the line AB. lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point A3. 
AA3 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm, 
Through point A3 is carried out perpendicular, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.2 cm, and put a point A4. 
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 1,2 = 3 cm.
Angle АА3А4 divide in half, from point A3 at the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck and put a point A5 (18 : 10 = 1.8 cm). The points A4, A5 And connect a smooth concave line. 

 Shoulder cut. From point A1 down in a vertical line lay 2.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 1.5 cm - for high shoulders, 3.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. the Point A4 and the P connect a straight line, which from the point A4 to the right lay the measure the shoulder length plus 3 inches to tuck and put a point P1 (13,5 + 3 = 16,5 cm). 

 The depth of the openings. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest, plus 10 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 10 = 22 cm 
For the hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 10.5 cm (48 : 4 + 10,5 = 22.5 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9.5 cm (48 : 4 + 9,5 = 21.5 cm). Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line. The intersection of this line and EN denote G1, with a line width of openings - G2 and line ВН1 - G3. 

 Cut the armhole of the backrest. From the point G lay cut up 1/3 PG and put a point P2 (22 : 3 = 7.3 cm). Angle П2ГГ2 divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.8 cm and put a point P3. 
ГП3 = ГГ2 : 10 + 1,8 = 15 : 10 + 1,8 = 3,3 cm, 
Cut ГГ2 divide in half and put a point G4 (15 : 2 = 7.5 cm). Points P1, P2, P3 and G4 connect a smooth line. 

 The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm and put a point P4. 
Г2П4 = 48 : 4 + 8 = 20 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm (48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8.5 cm (48 : 4 + 8,5 = 20.5 cm). 
Through the point P4 to the left hold horizontal line on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P5 (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). Heat from G2 upwards on a vertical line lay 1/3 cut Г2П4 minus 1 cm and put a point P6. 
Г2П6 = Г2П4 : 3 - 1 = 20 : 3 - 1 = 5,7 see
Points P5 and P6 connect the dotted line, divide this line in half, from the points of division at right angles to the dotted lines to the right postpone 1 cm and put 1 point. Angle П6Г2Г4 halve, from a point G2 on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.3 cm and put a point A7. 
Г2П7 = 15 : 10 + 1,3 = 2.8 cm 
Points P5, 1, P6, P7 and G4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From the point G3 up lines H1B lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm and put the point B1. 
Г3В1 = 48 : 2 + 5 = 29, see
To hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 4 cm (48 : 2 + 4 = 28 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 6 cm (48 : 2 + 6 = 30 cm). From the point of G2 up lines Г2А2 lay cut Г3В1 and put a point B2. Points B1 and B2 connect by a straight line. From the point B1 to the left of the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point B3. 
В1В3 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7,5 cm 
From the point B1 down in a vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.5 cm and put a point Q4. 
В1В4 = 18 : 3 + 2,5 = 8,5 see
Points B3 and B4 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half В3В4, point dividing the join the dotted line with the point B1. From point B1 on the line to the left lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.9 cm and put a point B5. 
В1В5 = 18 : 3 + 1,9 = 7,9 see 
Point B3, B5, and B4 connect the smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From point G3 along the line Г3Г1 to the left lay the measure of center of the chest, plus 1.5 cm and put a point G5 (9,5 + 1,5 = 11 cm). Through the point G5 spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line В1В2. The point of intersection represent B6. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point B6 lay down the measure of the height of the breast (27 cm) and put a point G6. 

 Shoulder cut line tuck. From the point B6 down in a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point V7. Point B3 connect by a straight line with the point V7, continue the line to the left 3 inches and put a point B8. Point B8 connect a straight line with a point G6. Point B8 and A5 connect with a dotted line. From the point P5 to the right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of В3В8, minus 0.3 cm and put a point B9.
Point G6 and B9 connect a straight line on which the point G6 up lay cut В8Г6, and put a break point B10. Point B10 and G6 connect with a straight line. 

 Making a lateral cut. From the point of G4 is lowered perpendicular to the line of bottom. The point of intersection of the perpendicular with the line of the waist, hips and bottom indicate T2, B2, H2. From the point T2 to the left and right waist lay on 2 - 2,5 cm and put points T3 and T4. Points T3 and T4 connect the straight lines with the point G4 and a smooth, slightly concave lines with the point B2. From the point H2 to the left and right hem lay at 3 cm and put the points H3 and H4. Points N3 and N4 connect the straight lines with the point B2. 

 The waist line of the front. From point B1 down in a vertical line lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist plus 2 cm (43 + 2 = 45 cm) and put a point T5. Points T5 and T4 connect a smooth line. 

 The hips of the shelves. From point B1 lay down the amount of cut Т1Т5 and put a point B3. The points B3 and B2 connect a smooth line. 

 Line the bottom of the coat. Line В1Н1 continue down. From the point H1 down the line delay value of the segment Т1Т5 and put a point H5. Point N5 and N3 connect a smooth line. 

 The design of the front raised lines. A vertical line В6Г5 continue to the bottom line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of the waist, hips and bottom denote T6, B4 and N6. From the point T6 to the left and right lay for 2 cm and put points T7 and T8. From the point G5 lay down 5 cm and connect the resulting point of straight lines with points T7 and T8. Points T7 and T8 connect smooth, slightly concave lines with the point of B4. From the point h6 to the left and right hem lay at 3 cm and put points H7 and H8. The points H7 and H8 connect the straight lines with the point of B4. 

 Making raised lines on the back and Darts from the shoulder cut. The distance between the points G, G1, divide in half and put a point G7. From the point of G7 is lowered perpendicular to the line of the bottom, the crossing point of it with the waist, hips and bottom denote T9, B5 and N9. From the point T9 to the left and right waist lay 2 cm and put points T10 and T11. Points T10 and T11 connect the straight lines with the point G7, and a slightly concave line with point B5. From the point H9 to the left and right lay for 3 cm and dot H10 and H11, which connect straight lines from point B5.
From the point A4 to the right shoulder lay the cut value cut В3В8 (drawing shelves) and put a point A6. From the point A6 to the right of the line delay value of the depth of the tuck (3 cm) and put a point A7. The distance between the points A6 and A7 divide in half and put a point A8. Points A8 and G7 connect with a straight line. From the point A8 down the line А8Г7 lay 8 - 9 cm and put a point A9. Points A6 and A9 connect a smooth line. The points A9 and A7 connect a smooth line and continue the line up. From the point A9 in the line delay value of the segment А6А9 and put a point a10.Point a10 and A1 connect by a straight line.

 Line Board. From the point B4 to the right hold horizontal line on which lay 3 cm, and put a point Q11. The bottom line is continue to the right from the point H5 to 3.5 - 4 cm and put a point H12. Point B11 H12, and connect with a straight line. 

 Construction drawing of the pattern sleeve. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay scoop sleeve length plus 2 cm (58 + 2 = 60 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 181). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 Sleeve width. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the width of the openings (drawing backrest and shelves) multiplied by three, minus 3 inches and put a point B. 
AB = 15 x 3 - 3 = 42 cm 
Through the point In spend a vertical line to the intersection with the lower line, the intersection point denoted H1. 

 The cut of the top part of the sleeve. From point A down the line an lay 3/4 of the depth of the armhole of the backrest (GHG) and put the point O. 
AO = (PG : 4) x 3 = (22 : 4) x 3 = 16,5 cm
Through the point On the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line ВН1, the intersection point of the outline O1. The line OO1 is divided into six equal parts, the points of division denoted O2, O3, O4, O5 and O6. Through each point of division conduct a vertical line to the intersection with the line AB. The point of intersection with the line AB denoted A1, A2, A3, A4 and A5. From the point O2 up lines О2А1 lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 1 cm and put a point A6 (16,5 : 3 - 1 = 4.5 cm). From the point A2 down the line А2О3 lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 2.5 cm and put a point A7 (16,5 : 3 - 2,5 = 3 cm).From the point A4 down the line А4О5 lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 2.2 cm and put a point A8 (16,5 : 3 and 2.2 = 3.3 cm). From the point A6 up lines О6А5 lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 2.5 cm and put a point A9 (16,5 : 3 - 2,5 = 3 cm). Point O, A6, A7, A3, A8, A9 and A1 connect a smooth line.
Line А3О4 continue downward, the point of intersection with underline denote H2. 

 The line of the elbow. From point A down the line an lay scoop length sleeves to the elbow plus 3 inches and put a dot L (32 + 3 = 35 cm). Through the point L, hold right horizontal line. The point of intersection of this line with the line ВН1 denote L1 and line А3Н2 - L2. 

 The middle line of the sleeve. From the point D2 to the right lay 2.5 cm and put a point H3. Points H3 and L2 connect with a straight line. 

 Line of front roll and front cutoff sleeves. From the point H3 to the right lay the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the model (15 cm) and put a point H4. Points H4 and O1 connect the dotted line. From the point of intersection of the dotted line and the elbow to the left postpone 1 cm and put 1 point. From H4 point up along the dotted line lay 2 see Points 2, 1 and O1 connect straight lines. 
From the point H4 to the left lay the value of the cut О6О1 and put a point H5. Point N5 and O6 connect the dotted line. From the point H5 on the dotted line up lay 2 cm, put a dot 2'. 

 Line elbow cut sleeves. From point L to the right along a horizontal line delay 2 see Point 2" connect a straight line with a point O. From a point H3 to the left lay the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the model (15 cm) and put a point h6. Point h6 and 2" connect a smooth line. 

 Line elbow tuck. From a point 2" down the line 2"h6 lay 2 cm and put a point L3. From point 2" to the right on the elbow lay 6 - 7 cm and connect the resulting point direct from L3. 

 Line the bottom of the sleeves. Point h6 and 2 connect the dotted line, dotted line, divide in half, through the point of division spend down perpendicular to the line Н₆2 length 0.4 cm and connect the resulting point to a smooth line with points N6, 2' and 2.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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