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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Coat fabrics with water-repellent impregnation (with two layers of batting)


The drawing of the pattern of this coat (Fig. 182) must be removed following measurements (in cm):
 

Poluobhvat neck  18 Breast height  27
Poluobhvat chest  48 The center of the chest  9,5
Back length to the waist line  38 Length coat  103
Front length to the waist line  43 Sleeve length  58
Back width.  18 Sleeve length to the elbow  32
Shoulder length  13,5    


 Construction drawing shelves and back. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the yardstick length coat plus 2 cm (103 + 2 = 105 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 183). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 The width of the coat. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 12 inches and put a point At (48 + 12 = 60 cm). Through the point In spend a vertical line to the intersection with the lower line, the intersection point denoted H1. 

 Back length to the waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 2cm and put a point T (38 + 2 = 40 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line, the intersection of this line with the line ВН1 denote T1. 

 Line of the hips. From point T down on a vertical line lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right is carried out in a horizontal line, the point of intersection with the line ВН1 denote B1. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the measure of the width of the back plus 3.5 cm and put a point A1.
AA1 = 18 a + 3.5 = 21,5 cm 

 Width of the openings. From the point A1 to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 4 cm and put a point A2. 
A1A2 = 48 : 4 + 4 = 16 see 
Through the points A1 and A2 hold down the vertical line. 

 A medium cut backless. From T point to the right waist postpone 1 cm and put a point T2. Through points A and T2 hold a straight line, the point of intersection with the line of the thighs and the bottom line denotes B2 and H2. 

 The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right along the line AB. lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point A3. 
AA3 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm.
Through point A3 is carried out a vertical line up, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.2 cm, and put a point A4. 
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 1,2 = 3 cm 
Angle АА3А4 divide in half, from point A3 at the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck and put a point A5 (18 : 10 = 1.8 cm). The points A4, A5 And connect a smooth concave line. 

 Shoulder cut. From point A1 down in a vertical line lay 2.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 1.5 cm for the high shoulders, 3,5 - sloping shoulders and put a point P. the Point A4 and the P connect a straight line, which from the point A4 to the right lay the measure the shoulder length plus 3 inches to tuck and put a point P1 (13,5 + 3 = 16,5 cm). 

 The construction of tuck from the shoulder cut of the back , see Fig. 196 in the section "Simulation"

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest, plus 10 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 10 = 22 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 10.5 cm (48 : 4 + 10,5 = 22.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9.5 cm (48 : 4 + 9,5 = 21.5 cm). 
Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line. The intersection of this line and EN denote G1, with a line width of openings - G2 and line ВН1 - G3. 

 Cut the armhole of the backrest. From the point G lay cut up 1/3 PG plus 2cm and put a point P2 (22 : 3 + 2 = 9.3 cm). Angle П2ГГ2 divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.8 cm and put a point P3. 
ГП3 = 16,0 : 10 + 1,8 = 3.4 cm 
Cut ГГ2 divide in half and put a point G4. Points P1, P2, P3 and G4 connect a smooth line. 

 The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm and put a point P4. 
Г2П4 = 48 : 4 + 8 = 20 refer 
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm (48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8.5 cm (48 : 4 + 8,5 = 20.5 cm). 
Through the point P4 to the left hold horizontal line on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest and put the point P5 (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). 
From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/3 cut Г2П4 and put a point P6. 
Г2П6 = Г2П4 : 3 = 20 : 3 = 6,7 cm
Points P5 and P6 connect the dotted line, divide this line in half, from the points of division at right angles to the dotted lines to the right postpone 1 cm and put 1 point. Angle П6Г2Г4 halve, from a point G2 on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.3 cm and put a point A7. 
Г2П7 = 16,0 : 10 + 1,3 = 2.9 cm 
Points P5, 1, P6, P7 and G4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 Line of the side cut. From the point G to the right of the line lay 1/3 of the width of the armhole plus 1 cm and put a point G5 (16,0 : 3 + 1 = 6.3 cm). Through the point G5 spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection with the line of the waist, hips and bottom denote T3, B3 and N3. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From the point G3 up lines H1B lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm and put the point B1. 
Г3В1 = 48 : 2 + 5 = 29 see 
For hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 4 cm (48 : 2 + 4 = 28 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 6 cm (48 : 2 + 6 = 30 cm). From the point of G2 up lines Г2А2 delay value of the segment Г3В1 and put a point B2. Points B1 and B2 connect by a straight line. From the point B1 to the left of the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point B3. 
В1В3 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7,5 cm 
From the point B1 down in a vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.5 cm and put a point Q4. 
В1В4 = 18 : 3 + 2,5 = 8,5 see
Points B3 and B4 connect the dotted line, divide the dotted line between these points in half, point dividing the join the dotted line with the point B1. From point B1 on the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.9 cm and put a point B5. 
В1В5 = 18 : 3 + 1,9 = 7,9 see 
Point B3, B5, and B4 connect the smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G3 to the left in horizontal lines lay the measure of center of the chest plus 1 cm and put a point G6 (with 9.5 + 1 = 10.5 cm). Through the point G6 spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line В1В2. The point of intersection represent B6. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point B6 lay down the measure of the height of the breast (27 cm) and put a point G7. 

 Shoulder cut line tuck. From the point B6 down in a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point V7. Points B7 and B3 connect by a straight line. Points P5 and B7 connect the dotted line. From the point P5 to the right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of В3В7, minus 0.3 cm and put a point B8. 
П5В8 = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm 
Point G7 and B8 connect the straight line on which the point G7 lay up cut Г7В7, and put a point B9. Points B9 and A5 connect with a straight line. 

 The waist line of the front. From point B1 down in a vertical line lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist plus 2 cm (43 + 2 = 45 cm) and put a point T4. Points T3 and T4 connect a smooth line. 

 The hips of the shelves. From point B1 lay down the amount of cut Т1Т4 and put a point B4. Points B3 and B4 connect a smooth line. 

 Line the bottom of the coat. Line В1Н1 continue down. From the point H1 down the line delay value of the segment Т1Т4 and put a point H4. Points N3 and N4 connect a smooth line. 

 Construction of the line side. From points B4 and H4 hold right horizontal lines, which are set aside for 3 to 4 cm, and connect the resulting points with a straight line. 

 Construction drawing of the pattern sleeve , see Fig. 181.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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