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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Coat jacket semi-fitted silhouette with set-in sleeves


The drawing of the pattern of this coat (Fig. 172) must be removed following measurements (in cm):
 

Poluobhvat neck  18 Breast height  27
Poluobhvat breast  48 The center of the chest  9,5
Back length to the waist line  38 Length coat  103
Front length to the waist line  43 Sleeve length  58
Back width.  18 Sleeve length to elbow  32
Shoulder length  13,5    


 Draw the pattern of the back and shelves. On the left side of the paper spend a vertical straight line, on which lay the measure of the length of the coat (103 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 173). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 The width of the coat. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm free customized fit, and put a point At (48 + 8 = 56 cm). Through the point In spend a vertical line, the point of intersection with the lower line indicate H1. 

 Back length to the waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 1 cm and put a point T (38 + 1 = 39 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line, the intersection of this line with the line ВН1 denote T1. 

 Line of the hips. From point T down on a vertical line lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right is carried out in a horizontal line, the point of intersection with the line ВН1 denote B1. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line delaying the measure width of back plus 2cm and put a point A1.
AA1 = 18 + 2 = 20 cm 

 Width of the openings. From the point A1 to the right of the line AB lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 2.3 cm and put a point A2. 
A1A2 = 48 : 4 + 2,3 = 14,3, see 
Through the points A1 and A2 hold down the vertical line. 

 The level of the blades. From point A down the line an lay 4/10 measurements of the length of the back to the waist line and put a point At (38 : 10 x 4 = 15.2 cm). Using the right point spend a horizontal line to the intersection with a vertical line going from point A1. The point of intersection denoted U1. 

 A medium cut backless. From point A to the right by the line AA1 delay of 0.5 cm and put a point A0. Point A0 connect a smooth line with a point of U. 
For the hunched figures lay 1 cm, for figures with a flat back construction of the cut backs are starting from point A. 
From point T to the right on a horizontal line lay 2 cm and put a point T2. Through the point T2 and spend a straight line to the intersection with the bottom line. The point of intersection with the line of the thighs and the bottom line denotes B2 and H2. The waistline, hips and bottom is carried out perpendicular to the line of УН2. 

 The deflection of the middle line of the back at the waist line. From the point T2 to the right on the waist line lay 1 - 1.5 cm and put a point T3. Point T3 connect a smooth line with points y and B2. 

 Line slots. From the point of H2 line of the bottom coat continue to the left by 5 - 8 cm and put a point W. From point D2 up lines Н2Б2 lay 20 to 40 cm and set point SH1. From a point SH1 to the left upon the earth perpendicular to the line Н2Б2 on which they lay 5 - 8 cm, and put a point ø2. Point ø and ø2 connect with a straight line. 

 The cut of the neckline backless. From the point A0 to the right along the line AB. lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point A3. 
А0А3 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm.
From point A3 up raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.2 cm and put a point A4. 
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 1,2 = 3 cm 
Angle А0А3А4 divide in half, from point A3 at the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck and put a point A5. 
А3А5 = 18 : 10 = 1,8, see 
Points A4, A5, A0 connect a smooth concave line. 

 Shoulder cut. From the point A4 down in a vertical line lay 2.5 cm (for normal shoulder length), 1.5 cm (high shoulder), 3.5 cm (sloping shoulders) and put a point P. the Point A4 and the P connect a straight line,which from the point A4 to the right lay the measure the shoulder length plus 2 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 - 1 cm for planting and put a point P1 (13,5 + 2 + 1 = 16.5 cm). 

 The construction of tuck from the shoulder cut of the back , see Fig. 196 in the section "Simulation"

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9.5 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 9,5 = 21,5 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest, plus 10 cm (48 : 4 + 10 = 22 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9 cm (48 : 4 + 9 = 21 cm). 
Through the point G is carried out in a horizontal line, the point of intersection with the line an denote G1, with a line width of openings - G2 and line ВН1 - G3. 

 Cut the armhole of the back. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2cm and put a point P2. 
ГП2 = GP : 3 + 2 = 21,5 : 3 + 2 = 9,2 see
Angle П2ГГ2 divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.7 cm and put a point P3. 
ГП3 = ГГ2 : 10 + 1,7 = 14,3 : 10 + 1,7 = 3,1 see 
Line ГГ2 divide in half and put a point G4, the Points P1, P2, P3, G4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The auxiliary line side cut. From the point G to the right of the line lay 1/4 of the width of the openings, and put a point G5 (14,3 : 4 = 3.8 cm). From the point G5 is lowered perpendicular to the intersection line НН1, the point of intersection with the bottom line is denoted H3. From point G5 up raise up perpendicular to the line of openings, and put a point G6. From the point H3 to the right along the hem of the coat lay the value of the cut НН2 plus 1.5 - 2 cm and put a point H4. Points H4 and G6 connect with a straight line. The point of intersection with the line of waist and hips refer T4 and B3. 

 Design side cut backless. From the point T4 to the left at the waist lay 1.5 - 2.5 cm and put a point T5. Point T5, connect a smooth line with points G6 and B3. 

 Side cut shelves. From the point H3 to the left lay a 2 - 2.5 cm and put a point H5. Point N5 and G6 connect the straight line points of intersection with the line of waist and hips refer T6 and B4. 

 The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm and put a point P4. 
Г2П4 = 48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm 
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm (48 : 4 + 7 = 19 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm (48 : 4 + 8 = 20 cm). 
Through the point P4 to the left hold horizontal line on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P5 (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). 
From the point of G2 up vertical. line lay 1/3 of the line Г2П4 minus 1 cm and put a point P6. 
Г2П6 = Г2П4 : 3 - 1 = 19,5 : 3 - 1 = 5,5 see
Points P5 and P6 connect the dotted line, divide this line in half, from the points of division at right angles to the dotted lines to the right postpone 1 cm and put 1 point. Angle Г4Г2П6 halve, from a point G2 on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.2 cm and put a point A7. 
Г2П7 = 14,3 : 10 + 1,2 = 2.6 cm 
Points P5, 1, P6, P7, G4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From the point G3 up lines H1B lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 4.5 cm and put the point B1. 
Г3В1 = 48 : 2 + 4,5 = 28.5 cm.
To hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 3.5 cm (48 : 2 a + 3.5 = 27.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 5.5 cm (48 : 2 + 5,5 = 29.5 cm). 
From the point of G2 up on the continuation of the line Г2А2 delay value of the segment Г3В1 and put a point B2. Points B1 and B2 connect by a straight line. 
From the point B1 to the left of the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point B3. 
В1В3 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7,5 cm 
From the point B1 down the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.5 cm and put a point Q4. 
В1В4 = 18 : 3 + 2,5 = 8,5 see
Points B3 and B4 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half В3В4, point dividing the join the dotted line with the point B1. From point B1 on the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.9 cm and put a point B5. 
В1В5 = 18 : 3 + 1,9 = 7,9 see 
Point B3, B5, B4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G3 to the left in horizontal lines lay the measure of center of the chest plus 1 cm and put a point G7 (the 9.5 + 1 = 10.5 cm). Through the point G7 spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line В1В2. The point of intersection represent B6. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point B6 down the line lay's measurements height chest (27 cm) and put a point G8. 

 Shoulder cut line tuck. From the point B6 down in a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point V7. Points B7 and B3 connect by a straight line. Points P5 and B7 connect the dotted line. From the point P5 to the right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of В3В7, minus 0.3 cm and put a point B8. 
П5В8 = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm 
Point G7 and B8 connect the straight line on which the points lay-up 8 piece, equal Г8В7, and put a point B9. Points B9 and A5 connect with a straight line.

 The waist line the shelves. From point B1 down in a vertical line lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist plus 1 cm (43 + 1 = 44 cm) and put a point T7. Points T7 and T6 connect a smooth line. 

 The hips of the shelves. From point B1 down in a vertical line delay value of the segment Т1Т7 and put a point B5. Points B5 and B4 connect a smooth line. 

 Line the bottom of the shelves. Line В1Н1 continue down. From the point H1 down on a vertical line delay value of the segment Т1Т7 and put a point h6. Point N6 and N5 connect a smooth line. 

 Design side cut shelves. From the point T6 to the right of the line Т6Т7 lay 1.5 - 2.5 cm and put a point T8. Point T8 connect a smooth line with points G6 and B4. 

 Line tuck. Line В2Г2 continue up to the hips. The point of intersection with the waist line denoted T9. From the point G2 down the line postpone 1 cm and put a point T10. From the point T9, the line continues down to 12 - 14 cm and put a point T11. From the point T9 to the left and right waist postpone 1 cm and put points T12 and T13. Points T12 and T13 is connected to the point T10 and T11 smooth lines. 

 The location of the pocket and the dimensions indicated on the drawing (see Fig. 164).

 Line side can be any shape. 

 Construction drawing of the pattern sleeve cm Coat jacket straight cut with set-in sleeves.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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