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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Coat jacket straight cut with set-in sleeves


The drawing of the pattern of this coat (Fig. 169) must be removed following measurements (in cm):
 

Poluobhvat neck  18 Shoulder length  13,5
Poluobhvat chest  48 The center of the chest  9,5
Back length to the waist line  38 Length coat  103
Front length to the waist line  43 Sleeve length  58
Back width.  18 Sleeve length to elbow  32
Breast height  27    


 Draw the pattern of the back and shelves. On the left side of a sheet of paper at a distance of 10 cm from the upper edge spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the coat (103 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 170). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 The width of the coat. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 10 cm free customized fit, and put a point At (48 + 10 = 58 cm). Through the point In spend a vertical line, the point of its intersection with lower line indicate H1.

 Back length to the waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 1 cm and put a point T (38 + 1 = 39 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line, the intersection of this line with the line ВН1 denote T1. 

 Line of the hips. From point T down on a vertical line lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right is carried out in a horizontal line, the point of intersection with the line ВН1 denote B1. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the measure of the width of the back plus 3 cm and put a point A1.
AA1 = 18 + 3 = 21 see 

 the Width of the openings. From the point A1 to the right of the line AB lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest, plus a 2.5 cm and put a point A2. 
A1A2 = 48 : 4 + 2,5 = 14.5 cm. 
Through the points A1 and A2 is carried out vertical lines down. 

 The level of the blades. From point A down the line an lay 4/10 measurements of the length of the back to the waist line and put a point At (38 : 10 x 4 = 15.2 cm). Using the right point spend a horizontal line to the intersection with a vertical line going from point A1, the intersection point denoted U1. 

 A medium cut backless. From point A to the right by the line AA1 lay 0.5 cm to tuck and put a point A0. Point A0 connect a smooth line with a point of U. 
For slouching figures of the value of the solution tucks increased by 1 cm, for figures with a flat back tuck eliminate.
From point T to the right on a horizontal line postpone 1 cm and put a point T2. Through the point T2 and spend a straight line to the intersection with the bottom line. The point of intersection with the line of the thighs and the bottom line denotes B2 and H2. 

 The waistline, hips and bottom of the coat is carried out perpendicular to the line of УН2. 

 Cut neck backless. From the point A0 to the right along the line AB. lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point A3. 
А0А3 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm, 
Through point A3 is carried out a vertical line on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.2 cm, and put a point A4. 
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 1,2 = 3 cm 
Angle А0А3А4 divide in half, from point A3 at the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck and put a point A5. 
А3А5 = 18 : 10 = 1.8 cm 
Points A4, A5, A0 connect a smooth concave line.

 Shoulder cut. From point A1 down in a vertical line lay 2.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 1.5 cm - for high shoulders, 3.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. the Point A4 and the P connect a straight line, which from the point A4 to the right lay the measure the shoulder length plus 2 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 - 1 cm for planting and put a point P1 (13,5 + 2 + 1 = 16.5 cm). 

 The construction of tuck from the shoulder cut of the back , see Fig. 196 in the section "Simulation"

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest, plus 10 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 10 = 22 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 10.5 cm (48 : 4 + 10,5 = 22.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9.5 cm (48 : 4 + 9,5 = 21.5 cm). 
Through the point G is carried out in a horizontal line, the point of intersection with the line an denote G1, with a line width of openings - G2 and line ВН1 - G3. 
 Note. Measure the depth of the openings, it is possible to control an additional measure; it is removed from the drawstring at the waist to the underarm, minus 4 cm (for demi-season coat). 

 Cut the armhole of the backrest. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance of PG + 2 cm and put a point P2. 
ГП2 = GP : 3 + 2 = 22 : 3 + 2 = 9,3 see 
Angle П2ГГ2 divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.7 cm and put a point P3. 
ГП3 = 15 : 10 + 1,7 = 3.2 cm 
Line ГГ2 divide in half and put a point G4. 
Points P1, P2, P3, G4, connect a smooth line. 

 Side cut backless. From the point G to the right .the line lay 1/3 of the width of the openings, and put a point G5 (14,5 : 3 = 4.8 cm). From the point G5 is lowered perpendicular to the line НН1, the point of intersection with the line of the waist, hips and bottom denote T3, B3, H3. From point G5 restore perpendicular to the line Г1Г3 to the intersection with the line of openings, and put a point G6. From the point H3 to the right along the hem of the coat lay the value of the cut НН2 + 1 cm and put a point H4. Through the points H4 and G6 hold the line side of the cut backs. 

 The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm and put a point P4. 
Г2П4 = 48 : 4 + 8 = 20 refer 
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm (48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8.5 cm (48 : 4 + 8,5 = 20.5 cm). 
Through the point P4 to the left hold horizontal line on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P5 (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). 
From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the line Г2П4 minus 1 cm and put a point P6.
Г2П6 = Г2П4 : 3 - 1 = 20 : 3 - 1 = 5,7 see 
the Points P5 and P6 connect the dotted line, divide this line in half, from the points of division at right angles to the dotted lines to the right postpone 1 cm and put 1 point. Angle ГГ2П4 halve, from a point G2 on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.2 cm and put a point A7. 
Г2П7 = 15 : 10 + 1,2 = 2.7 cm 
Points P5, 1, P6, P7, G4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 Side cut shelves. From the point H3 to the left of the line lay 2 - 3 cm and put a point H5. Point N5 and G6 connect the straight line points of intersection with the line of the waist and hips represent the T4 and B4. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From the point G3 up lines H1B lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm and put the point B1. 
Г3В1 = 48 : 2 + 5 = 29 see 
For hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 4 cm (48 : 2 + 4 = 28 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 6 cm (48 : 2 + 6 = 30 cm).
From the point G2 on the line Г2А2 delay value of the segment Г3В1 and put a point B2. Points B1 and B2 connect by a straight line. 
From the point B1 to the left of the line В1В2 lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point B3. 
В1В3 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7,5 cm 
From the point B1 down the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.5 cm and put a point Q4. 
В1В4 = 18 : 3 + 2,5 = 8,5 see
Points B3 and B4 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half В3В4, point dividing the join the dotted line with the point B1. From point B1 on the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.9 cm and put a point B5. 
В1В5 = 18 : 3 + 1,9 = 7,9 see 
Point B3, B5, B4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G3 to the left in horizontal lines lay the measure of center of the chest plus 1 cm and put a point G7 (the 9.5 + 1 = 10.5 cm). Through the point G7 spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line В1В2. The point of intersection represent B6. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point B6 lay down the measure of the height of the breast (27 cm) and put a point G8. 

 Shoulder cut line tuck. From the point B6 down in a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point V7. Points B7 and B3 connect by a straight line. Points P5 and B7 connect the dotted line. From the point P5 to the right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of В3В7, minus 0.3 cm and put a point B8. 
П5В8 = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm 
Point G8 and B8 connect the straight line on which the points lay-up 8 piece, equal Г8В7, and put a point B9. Points B9 and A5 connect with a straight line.

 The waist line the shelves. From point B1 down in a vertical line lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist plus 1 cm (43 + 1 = 44 cm) and put a point T5. Points T4 and T5, connect a smooth line. 

 The hips of the shelves. From point B1 down in a vertical line delay value of the segment Т1Т5 and put a point B5. Points B5 and B4 connect a smooth line. 

 Line the bottom of the shelves. Line В1Н1 continue down. From the point H1 down the line delay value of the segment Т1Т5 and put a point h6. Point N6 and N5 connect a smooth line. 

 Line side. From the point B4 down in a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a break point B10. From point 10 tangent to the arc of neck hold smooth line, continue to the right by 0.5 cm and put a point Q11. From the point B11 to the right spend a horizontal line. From the point B11 on the line lay 3 cm and put a point B12. From the point h6 to the right hold horizontal line on which lay 3.5 - 4 cm, and put a dot H7. Point H7, B12 connecting a straight line and continue that line up to 0.5 cm the resulting point connects a straight line with a point Q11. 

 Draw the pattern of the sleeves of the two halves. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay scoop sleeve length (58 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 171). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 Sleeve width. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the width of the openings (drawing backrest and shelves) multiplied by three, minus 5 cm and put the point B. 
AB = 15 x 3 - 5 = 40 cm 
Through the point In spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line. The point of intersection denoted H1. 

 The height of the top part of the sleeve. From point A down the line an lay 3/4 of the depth of the armhole of the backrest (GHG) and put the point O. 
AO = 22 : 4 x 3 = 16,5 cm 
Through the point On the right spend a horizontal line, the point of intersection with the line ВН1 denote O1. 

 The line of the elbow. From point A down the line an lay scoop length sleeves to the elbow plus 2cm and put a point L (32 + 2 = 34 cm). Through the point L, hold right horizontal line. The point of intersection with the line L1 represent ВН1. 

 Auxiliary lines okata sleeves. The line OO1 is divided into six equal parts. The points of division denoted O2, O3, O4, O5, O6. Through each point of division conduct a vertical line to the intersection with the line AB. The point of intersection with the line AB denoted A1, A2, A3, A4, A5. 
From the point O2 up lines О2А1 lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 1 cm and put a point A6 (16,5 : 3 - 1 = 4.5 cm).
From the point A2 down the line А2О3 lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 2.5 cm and put a point A7 (16,5 : 3 - 2,5 = 3 cm). 
From the point A4 down the line А4О5 lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 2 cm and put a point A8 (16,5 : 3 - 2 = 3.5 cm).
From the point A6 up lines О6А5 lay 1/6 of the height of the top part of the sleeves and put a point A9 (16,5 : 6 = 2.8 cm). 
Line О6О1 divided into three equal parts, the right breaking point indicate O7. 

 The middle sections of the sleeve. Line А3О4 continue down. The point of intersection with the lower line denote H2. From the point A3 to the left along the line AB. postpone 1 cm and put a point a10. From the point A3 to the right of the line AB lay 1.5 cm and put a point A11.
From the point O4 to the left of the line OO1 delay of 0.5 cm and put a point A8. From the point O4 to the right on the same line delay of 0.8 cm and put the point E9. From the point D2 to the right lay 2 cm and put a point H3. 
Points A11, A8 and H3 connect a smooth line, getting a medium cut the front halves of the sleeves. 
Point a10, A9 and H2 connect a smooth line, get a medium cut rear halves of the sleeve. 

 Line the bottom of the front halves of the sleeves. From the point H3 to the right lay the width of the sleeve at the bottom (16 cm) and put a point H4. Points H4 and O1 connect the dotted line.
From the point H4 to the left of the line delay value of the segment О6О1 and put a point H5. From the points N4 and N5 up lines lay 2 cm of the Point 2, 2, H3 connect a smooth line. 

 The lower section of the front halves of the sleeves. From the point of intersection of the dotted lines with the left line LL1 postpone 1 see Point 1 connect a smooth line with points 2 and O1.

 Line the bottom of the rear halves of the sleeve. From the point H2 to the left of the line lay the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the model (16 cm) and put a point h6. The distance between the points H2 and h6 are divided in half, the dividing point down a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm, and put a dot H7. Point H2, H7, h6, connect a smooth line. 

 The lower section of the rear halves of the sleeve. From point L to the right of the line LL1 lay 2 cm and put a point L2. The L2 point connects a straight line with a point On a smooth line and point N6. 

 Line elbow tuck. From the L2 point down the line Л2Н6 lay 2 cm and put a point L3. From the point L2 to the right of the line LL1 lay 6 - 7 cm and put a point L4. Point L4 connect a straight line with a point L3.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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