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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Coat straight cut jacket with sleeves polarella


The drawing of the pattern of this coat (Fig. 176) must be removed following measurements (in cm):
 

Poluobhvat neck  18 Shoulder length  13,5
Poluobhvat chest  48 Length coat  103
Back length to the waist line  38 Sleeve length  58
Front length to the waist line  43 Sleeve length to elbow  32
Back width.  18    


 A preliminary calculation. Before the creation of the drawing pattern, to make a preliminary calculation. 

 The width of the coat at the chest line is equal to the measure of poluobhvat chest plus 11 cm (48 + 11= 59 cm). 

 Back width is equal to the measure of the width of the back plus 3 cm (18 + 3 = 21 cm). 

 The width of the openings is 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 3.5 cm (48 : 4 a + 3.5 = 15.5 cm). 

 The width of the front equal to the width of the coat at the chest line minus the width of back and width of the armhole (59 - 21 - 15,5 = 22.5 cm). 

 Construction drawing patterns backless. On the left side of a sheet of paper at a distance of 5 cm from the upper edge spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the coat (103 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 177). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 Back length to the waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 1 cm and put a point T (38 + 1 = 39 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line. 

 Length to the hip line. From point T down on a vertical line lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right spend a horizontal line. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the width of the back (on a preliminary calculation) and put a point A1 (AA1 = 21 cm). 

 The width of the openings. From the point A1 to the right on a horizontal line lay the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point A2 (A1A2 = 15.5 cm). Through the points A1 and A2 hold down the vertical line. 

 The level of convexity of the blades. From point A down the line an lay 4/10 measurements of the length of the back to the waist line and put a point At (38 : 10 x 4 = 15.2 cm). Using the right point spend a horizontal line to the intersection with a vertical line going from point A1. 

 The middle line of the back. From point A to the right by the line AA1, set aside 1 cm (hunched figures lay 1.5 cm) and put a point A0. From the point T to the right on a horizontal line postpone 1 cm and put the point T1. Points A0 and connect a smooth line. From the point y through the point T1 is carried out in a straight line to the intersection with the bottom line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of the hips and bottom denote B1 and D1. Waist line, hips, thighs, bottom is carried out perpendicular to the middle line of the back УН1. 

 Line of the neck backless. From the point A0 to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point A3.
А0А3 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7,5 cm 
For shapes of the body fat in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra the width of the neck increases at 0.5 cm 
From point A3 raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm, and put a point A4. 
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 1 = 2.8 cm 
Angle АА3А4 divide in half, from point A3 at the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.3 cm and put a point A5. 
А3А5 = 18 : 10 - 0,3 = 1,5, see 
Points A4, A5, A0, connect a smooth line. 

 The shoulder cut of the back. From point A1 down in a vertical line lay 4 cm (for normal shoulders), 3 cm (high shoulders), 5 cm (for sloping shoulders) and put a point P. the Point A4 and the P connect a straight line, which from the point A4 to the right lay the measure the shoulder length plus 1 cm for planting, and put a point P1 (of 13.5 + 1 = 14.5 cm). 

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest, plus 10 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 10 = 22 cm 
For the hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 10.5 cm (48 : 4 + 10,5 = 22.5 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9.5 cm (48 : 4 + 9,5 = 21.5 cm). 
Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection with the line an denote G1, with a line width of openings - G2. 

 Cut the armhole of the back. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance of PG and put a point P2. 
ГП2 = GP : 3 = 22 : 3 = 7,3 cm 
Angle П2ГГ2 divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 2 cm, and put a point P3. 
ГП3 = 15,5 : 10 + 2 = 3.6 cm. 
Cut ГГ2 divide in half and put a point G3.

 The reduction of the length of the shoulder cut. From the point P1 to the left at the shoulder cut lay 5 cm and put a point P4 (П1П4 = 5 cm). 
Points P4 and P2 connect the dotted line, dotted line, divide in half, from the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 cm, and put a point 1. The point P4 1, P2, A3, G3 connect a smooth line. 

 Line of the side cut. From the point G3 to down spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line. The point of intersection with underline denote H2. From the point D2 to the right bottom line delay value of the segment НН1 plus 2cm and put a point H3. Point N3 G3 and connect a straight line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of the waist and hips represent the T2 and B2. 

 Construction drawing patterns back half of a sleeve. From the point A1 to the right of line A1A2 lay 1/3 of the width of the armhole plus 0.3 cm and put a point A7. 
А1А7 = 15,5 : 3 + 0,3 = 5.5 cm.
From the point of G2 up lines Г2А2 lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest minus 4 cm and put a point G4. 
Г2Г4 = 48 : 4 - 4 = 8 see 
Point A7 connect the dotted line with the point G4 and continue this line down. 

 The height of the top part of the sleeve. Points P1 and G4 connect the dotted line. From the point P1 at the line delay value of a segment of PG minus 1.5 cm and put the point O. 
П1О = PG - 1,5 = 22 - 1,5 = 20,5 cm
The dotted line between points P1 and divided in half, the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 2 cm, and put a point O1. From points P4 and P1 raise perpendiculars, on which lay 1 cm, and put the points O2 and O3. Points O2, O3, O1, connect a smooth line. 

 Sleeve length. From the point On down the line lay scoop sleeve length plus 5 cm and put a point O4. 

 The width of the sleeve hem. Line the bottom of the sleeves is carried out through the point O4 is perpendicular to the line А7О4. From the point O4 on this kind of line otlamyvayut the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the model (15.5 cm) and put a point O5. From the point O5 is lowered perpendicular, on which lay 1 cm, and put a point A6. Point O6 and O4 connect a smooth line. 

 The line width of the sleeve under the armhole. The line width of the sleeve under the armhole is carried out through the point perpendicular to the line of А7О4. 

 Line of lifts the shoulders. From point 1 to the left upon the earth perpendicular to the line П4П2, where from point 1 delay 0.5 cm, and put a point O7. From the point P2 to the left upon the earth perpendicular to the line П2П4, which from the point P2 lay 1.5 cm, and put a point A8. From point A8 make a notch on the line widths of the openings with a radius equal П2Г3 plus 0.5 cm (П2Г3 measured in a straight line) and put a point E9. The points A9 and A8 connect the dotted line, dotted line, divide in half, from the points of division drop the perpendicular, on which lay 1.7 cm, and put a point A10. Point O2, P4, A7, A8, A10, A9 connect a smooth line.The points A9 and A6 connect the dotted line.

 The lower section of the rear halves of the sleeve. From a point O3 on down the line sleeves scoop lay-length sleeves to the elbow plus 2cm and put a point L (32 + 2 = 34 cm). The line of the elbow is carried out through the point L perpendicular to the line of А7О4. The point of intersection with a dotted line L1 denotes О6О9. The line LL1 continue to the left by 1 cm and put a point L2. Point A9, A2, A6, connect a smooth line. 

 The creation of the drawing pattern of the front. On the right side of a sheet of paper, stepping 7 cm from the right slice, spend a vertical line, on which lay the yardstick length coat plus 5 - 6 cm (103 + 5 = 108 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 178). Through points A and H to the left, hold the horizontal line. 

 The depth of the armhole. From point A down the line an lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 5.5 cm and put a point G.
AG = 48 : 2 + 5,5 = 29.5 cm 
For hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 4.5 cm (48 : 2 + 4,5 = 28.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 6.5 cm (48 : 2 by 6.5 = 30.5 cm).
Through the point G to the left, spend a horizontal line. 

 The width of the front. From point A to the left along a horizontal line lay the width of the front (on a preliminary calculation) and put a point A1 (AA1 = 22.5 cm). 

 The width of the openings. From the point A1 to the left on a horizontal line lay the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point A2 (A1A2 = 15.5 cm). From points A1 and A2 is lowered perpendicular to the line of the chest. The point of intersection with the line of the chest represent G1 and G2. 

 The auxiliary line side cut. The distance between the points G1 and G2 divide in half and put a point G3. From point G3 is lowered perpendicular to the line of the bottom, the point of intersection denoted H1. 

 The curved neckline of the front. From point A to the left along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point A3. 
AA3 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm 
From point A down the line an lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.5 cm and put a point A4. 
АА4 = 18 : 3 + 2,5 = 8,5 see
Points A3 and A4 connect the dotted line, divide А3А4 cut in half, from point A through point division is carried out by a dotted line, at which point A delay of 1/3 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.8 cm, and put a point A5. 
АА5 = 18 : 3 + 1,8 = 7,8, see 
Point A3, A5, and A4 connect the smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G to the left on a horizontal line delay distance equal to the measure of the center of the chest plus 1 cm, and put a point G4 (with 9.5 + 1 = 10.5 cm). Through the point G4 spend a vertical line to the intersection of the line AA1, the point of intersection designated by the letter A6. 

 Breast height. From the point A6 lay down the measure of the height of your chest plus 1 cm and put a point G5 (27 + 1 = 28 cm). 

 The line of the shoulder cut line tuck. From the point A6 down on a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point A7. Points A7 and A3 connect in a straight line. 
From the point G1 up lines Г1А1 lay cut the amount of GHG (drawing back) minus 1 cm and put a point P. 
Г1П = GHG - 1 = 22 - 1 = 21 see
Through the point P to the left carried out a horizontal line on which the point P to the left lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P1 (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). Points A1 and A7 connect the dotted line. From the point P1 to the right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length minus the distance between the points A7 and A3, minus 0.3 cm and put a point P2. 
П1П2 = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm 
From point G5 through the point P2 draw a line equal to the right side of the tuck, and put a point P3. Points P3 and P1 connect the dotted line. 

 The reduction of the length of the shoulder cut. From the point P1 to the right of the line П1П3 lay 5 cm and put a point P4. Points P3 and P4 connect a straight line. 

 The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point G1 up lines Г1А1 postpone 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest and put the point P5 (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). 
Points P5 and P4 connect the dotted line, the dotted line is divided in half. From the dividing point to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 cm, and put a point 1. Angle П5Г1Г3 divide in half, from the point G1 on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.2 cm and put a point P6. 
Г1П6 = 15,5 : 10 + 1 = 2.6 cm
Points P4, 1, P5, P6, G3 connect a smooth line. 

 The line side of the slice. From the point H1 to the left on a horizontal line lay 3 - 5 cm and put a point of H2. Point H2 G3 and connect a straight line. From point G3 down the line delay value of the segment Г3Н3 (drawing back) and put a point H3. Point N3 connecting a smooth line with the H-point. 

 The waist line. From the point G3 down the line Г3Н3 delay value of the segment Г3Т2 (drawing back) and put the point T. From the point And lay down the measure of the length of the front to the waist plus 1 cm and put the point T1 (43 + 1 = 44 cm). T point T1 and connect a smooth line.

 Line of the hips. From points T and T1 down the line Г3Н3 and an lay the amount of cut Т2Б2 (drawing back) and put the points B and B1. Points B and B1 connect a smooth line. 

 The creation of the drawing pattern of the front halves of the sleeves. From the point A1 to the left of the line A1A2 lay 2/3 of the width of the openings minus 1 cm and put a point A8. 
А1А8 = 15,5 : 3 x 2 - 1 = 9.4 cm, 
From the point G1 to the left of the line lay 2/3 of the width of the openings, and put a point G6. 
Г1Г6 = 15,5 : 3 2 = 10,4 see 
Points A8 and G6 connect the dotted line and continue this line down. 

 The height of the top part of the sleeve. Points P1 and G6 connect the dotted line. From point P1 down on the dotted line delay value of the segment П1О (drawing back) and put a point O. the Dotted line between points P1 and is divided from the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1.7 cm, and put a point O1. From point P4, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm, and put a point O2. Point O2, P1, O1, connect a smooth line. 

 Sleeve length. From the point of O2 down the line lay scoop sleeve length plus 5 cm and put the point O3. 

 The width of the sleeve hem. The line width of the sleeve hem is carried out through a point O3 is perpendicular to the line А8О3. From the point O3 along this line lay the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the model (15.5 cm) and put a point O4. The distance between the points O3 and O4 are divided in half, the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 cm, and put a point 1. Point O3, 1, O4, connect a smooth line. 

 The line width of the sleeve under the armhole. The line width of the sleeve under the armhole is carried out through the point perpendicular to the line of А8О3. 

 Line of lifts the shoulders. From the point 1 to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm, and put a point O5. From the point P5 to the right raise up perpendicular to the line Г1А1, which lay 1.5 cm, and put a point A6. From the point A6, make a notch on the line width of the sleeve under the armhole with a radius equal П5Г3 plus 0.5 cm (П5Г3 measured in a straight line) and put a point O7. Points A6 and A7 connect the dotted line, divide this line in half, from the points of division upon the earth perpendicular to the line О6О7, which lay 2 cm, and put a point A8. Point O2, O5, O6, A8, A7, connect a smooth line.The point O7 and O4 connect the dotted line.

 The line of the elbow. From point P1 down the line lay scoop length sleeves to the elbow plus 2cm and put a point L (32 + 2 = 34 cm). The line of the elbow is carried out through the point L perpendicular to the line of А8О3. The intersection of this line with the dotted line О7О4 denoted by the letter L1. 

 The lower section of the front halves of the sleeves. From the point L1 to the left of the line postpone 1 cm and put a point L2. Point O4, O7 L2 and connect a smooth line. 

 Construction drawing patterns on the sides and collar , see Fig. 161.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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