The drawing of the pattern skort (Fig. 119) must be removed following measurements (in cm):
Poluobhvat waist |
40 |
Poluobhvat hips |
52 |
Distance from waist to floor front |
100 |
Distance from waist line to floor at the side |
101 |
Distance from waist line to floor rear |
100 |
Distance from floor to bottom edge of skirt |
35 |
Seat height |
28 |
Construction drawing. Take a sheet of paper equal to the length of the skirt plus 10 - 12 cm, width equal to poluobhvat hips plus 60 cm
Width of the skirt. At the bottom of the sheet of paper carried out a horizontal line where lay the cut is equal to the measure of poluobhvat hips plus 2cm for loose fit, and put the points H and H1 (Fig. 120). Through the points H and H1 spend a vertical line upwards.
Line sides. From the point N to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat hips and put a point H2 (52 : 2 = 26 cm). Through the point N2 is carried out a vertical line upwards.
The length of the skirt. From the point N up vertical lines lay the measure of the length of the skirt (100 - 35 = 65 cm) and put the point T. From the point H2 upward on a vertical line lay the measure of the length of the side skirt (101 - 35 = 66 cm) and put the point T1. From point N1 up vertical lines lay the measure of the length of the skirt (100 - 35 = 65 cm) and put a point T2.
The waist line. Points T, T1, T2 connect the dotted lines.
Seat height. From point T1 down the line lay measurements seat height + 2 cm and put a point W (28 + 2 = 30 cm). Through point W to the left and right spend a horizontal line. The intersection of this line and TN denote SH1, the point of intersection with the line Т2Н1 - ø2.
Line of the hips. Point W up the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of the seat height and put B (28 : 3 = 9.3 cm). Through point B to the left and right spend a horizontal line, the point of intersection of this line and TN denote B1, with a line Т2Н1 - B2.
The calculation of the solution tucks at the waist. To determine the value of the solution tucks at the waist to measure the poluobhvat hips add 2cm for loose fit and subtract the measure of poluobhvat waist (52 + 2 - 40 = 14 cm).
The size of the front Darts equal to 0.2 of the total solution of all Darts (14 x 0.2 = 2.8 cm).
The value of the solution side tuck is 0.45 of the total solution tucks (14 x 0.45 = 6.3 cm).
The amount of solution back tuck of 0.35 of the total solution tucks (14 x 0.35 = 4.9 cm).
Side tuck. From the point T1 to the left and to the right along the dotted line lay on the half of the depth of the side tucks and put points T3 and T4. The resulting points are linked by dotted lines with the point B. the Dotted lines divide in half, from the points of division inside tuck restore these lines perpendiculars, on which lay 0.5 cm, then a smooth line connecting the points obtained points B, T3 and T4, B.
Tuck front cloth. The dotted line between points T4 and T2 divided in half, through the point of division is carried down a vertical line with a length of 12 - 14 cm and put a point T5. From the dividing point to the left and to the right along the dotted line lay on the half depth front tuck and put points T6 and T7. Points T6 and T7 connect slightly concave lines with the point T5. The dotted line from tuck to points T4 and T2 encircle a solid line.
Tuck back the cloth. Line NT continue up to 2 cm and put a point T8. Points T8 and T3 connect the dotted line. The dotted line between these points is divided in half and put a point T9. From the point T9 to the left and to the right along the dotted line lay on the half of the depth of the back Darts and put points T10 and T11. From the point T9 down, spend a vertical line parallel to line T, to the line BB1, the point of intersection denote B3. Point B3 connect the smooth slightly concave lines with points T10 and T11.
Folds. Line Ш1Ш2 continue left and right. From a point SH1 to the left, and from point R2 to the right of the line lay the width of the folds 14 and 18 cm and dots SH3 and Ш4. Through SH3 and Ш4 spend a vertical line, the point of intersection of these lines with the lines of the waist, hips and bottom indicate, respectively, T12, B4, D3 and T13, B5, H4.
The width of the rear halves of the pants along the line of the step. From the point of SH3 to the left of the line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 1cm and put a point Ш5 (52 : 4 + 1 = 14 cm). Through the point Ш5 down, spend a vertical line, the point of intersection with the bottom line is denoted H5. The distance between the points Ш5 SH3 and divide into three equal parts, from the left of the dividing point down a perpendicular, on which lay 0.8 cm, and put a point Ш6. Angle Б4Ш3Ш5 divide in half, from the point of SH3 on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips minus 1.5 cm and put a point Ш7. Point B4, Ш7, Ш6, Ш5 connect a smooth concave line.
Width of the front halves of the pants along the line of the step. From the point Ш4 right on the line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat hips or minus 3 cm and put a point sh8 (52 : 4 - 3 = 10 cm). Through the point sh8 down, spend a vertical line, the intersection of this line and the bottom line is denoted h6. The distance between the points Ш4 and sh8 divided into three equal parts, the right point of division denote Ш9. Angle Б5Ш4Ш8 divide in half, from point Ш4 line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips minus 1.7 cm and put a point Ш10. The points B5, Ш10, Ш9 and sh8 connect a smooth line.
Note. Skirt pants on line of the side seam, you can make the bottom wider. From the point H2 to the left and to the right lay 2 - 6 cm and put the points H7 and H8. The points H7 and H8 connect straight lines from point B.
Folds down to make a 1.5 cm already.
The layout pattern and cutting fabric. At raskroe it is necessary to put the pattern pieces so that the lobe thread has been along the lines of Т8Н and Т2Н1.
Sewing. First smatyvay seam between points T12 and T13 Ш5, sh8. Pave the basting on the pleats between the points T8, SH1 and T2, R2. Then smatyvay side, step cuts and Darts. Pleated disperse. On the left hand side cut leave not swept up at a distance of 15 - 18 cm from the waist line.
Doing a fitting. If the pants sit well on the figure, proceed to the grinding. First lay a line between points T12 and T3 Ш5, sh8, seams rautureau. Sew Darts, side stepping and cuts, all rautureau. Hem hem. Then navigate the line between the points T8, SH1 and T2, R2, folds and disperse priorivet. Handle fastener and sew the corsage. Pockets can be patch or Welt.
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