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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Drawings of collars

Collars are an important detail of dresses, blouses, costume. Their shape is very diverse. Collars can be made from the main fabric or of a fabric finish. The same dress can be done a few different collars that you can change. The collar should match the cuffs and pockets.

 Attached collar with rounded ends. Collar designed for a closed neck (Fig. 184, a).

 The length of the collar.Spend a horizontal line, on which lay a bushel of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm, and put points A and A1 - (18 + 1 = 19 cm). Through points A and A1 hold down vertical lines (Fig. 184, b).

 The width of the collar. From point A down the vertical line lay the width of the collar (8 cm) plus 2 cm, and put a point N (8 + 2 = 10 cm). Through the point N to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with a vertical line drawn through point A1. The point of intersection denoted H1.

 Line vrachevanie. From point A down the vertical line delay of 2 cm and put a point A2. Points A2 and A1 connect the dotted line. Divide the dotted line between these points in half, from the points of division to the line A1A2 raise a perpendicular of length 1, see the resulting point, connect a smooth line with points A2 and A1.

 The line of departure. From point N1 up vertically, lay 2 cm and put a point of H2. The distance between the points D2 and A1 divide in half, through the point of division to the right, hold the horizontal line on which lay 1 see the Points A1, 1, N2 and N, connect a smooth line.

 Adjacent stand collar. Collar designed for a closed neck (Fig. 185, a).

 The length of the collarDraw a horizontal line on which lay a bushel of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm, and put points A and A1 - (18 + 1 = 19 cm). Through points A and A1 is carried out vertical lines down (Fig. 185, b).

 The width of the collar. From point A down the vertical line lay the width of the rack (4 cm) and put the H-point. Through the point N to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with a line drawn through point A1. The point of intersection denoted H1.

 Line vrachevanie. From point N1 up vertical lines lay 2 cm and put a point of H2. From the point N to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point H3. Point H, H3 and H2 connect smooth convex line.

 The top line of the collar. From point A down the vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point A2. From the point A1 to the left on a horizontal line delay of 1.5 cm and put a point A3. Point H2 and A3 connect the straight line, continue the line up on 1 see Point 1 connect smooth curved line with point A2.

 Attached collar with pointed ends and counter. This collar is intended for a closed neck (Fig. 186, a).

 The length of the collarDraw a horizontal line on which lay a bushel of poluobhvat neck plus 3 cm, and put points A and A1 - (18 + 3 = 21 cm). Through points A and A1 hold down vertical lines (Fig. 186, b).

 The width of the collar. From point A down the vertical line lay the width of the collar (7 cm) plus 2 cm, and put a point N (7 + 2 = 9 cm). Through the point N to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with a line drawn through point A1. The point of intersection denoted H1.

 Line vrachevanie. From point A down the vertical line lay 1 see the resulting point, connect a smooth line with the point A1.

 Line stand. From point A1 down the line А1Н1 lay 2.5 cm and put a point A2. From the point A2 to the left hold horizontal line on which lay 2 cm, and put a point A3. Point A3 is connected to the point A1 in the smooth concave line.

 The line of departure. Points A3 and D1 connect by a straight line. From the point N up vertically, lay 1 see Point 1 connect a smooth line from the point N1. The line of departure can be done rounded, this line is in the drawing shown by the dotted line.

 Turn-down collar. This collar is designed to open the neck (Fig. 187, a).

 The length of the collarDraw a horizontal line on which lay a bushel of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm, and put points A and A1 - (18 + 1 = 19 cm). Through points A and A1 is carried out vertical lines down (Fig. 187, b).

 The width of the collar. From point A down the vertical line lay 8 cm and put the H-point. Through the point N to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with a vertical line drawn through point A1. The point of intersection denoted H1.

 Line vrachevanie. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point A2. From point A1 down vertical lines lay 2 see Point 2 connect a smooth line with points A2 And A.

 the Line of departure. From the point H1 to the right on a horizontal line lay 1 - 5 cm and put a point of H2. Point link H2 a straight line with a point 2 and point N. The line of departure can be done rounded, this line is in the drawing shown by the dotted line.

 Collar with pointed ends, slightly behind the neck. This collar is intended for products with an open neck (Fig. 188, a).

 The length of the collarDraw a horizontal line on which lay a bushel of poluobhvat neck plus 29 cm, and dots A and A1 - (18 + 29 = 47 cm). Through points A and A1 is carried out vertical lines down (Fig. 188, b).

 The width of the collar. From point A down the vertical line lay 15 cm and put the H-point. Through the point N to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with a vertical line drawn through point A1. The point of intersection denoted H1.

 Line vrachevanie. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 6.5 cm and put a point A2. From the point A1 to the left on a horizontal line lay 9.5 cm and put a point A3. The distance between the points A2 and A3 is divided into three equal parts, the points of division denoted A4 and A5. Through the points A4 and A5 is carried out vertically to the bottom line, the point of intersection with the bottom line indicate the N2 and N3. From the point A4 down in a vertical line lay 6.5 cm and put a point A6. From point A5 lay down 5 cm and put a point A7.Points A2 and A6 connect with a dotted line to divide a dotted line between these points in half, from the points of division down the line А2А6 raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1.3 cm, and put a point A8. Points A2, A8, A6, A7, A3 connect the smooth concave line.

 The middle line of the collar. From point A down the vertical line delay of 5.5 cm and put a point A9. The points A9 and A2 connect in a straight line.

 The line of departure. The points A9 and H2 connect smooth convex line. From point A1 down in a vertical line lay 9 cm and put the point a10. Point a10 and H2 connect the dotted line, divide it into three equal parts. From the left of the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay the 1.0 - 1.2 cm, and put a point A11. Point H2, A11, a10, connect a smooth line.

 Line neck backless. From the lowest point of the neck of the back down the middle of the back lay 1 cm (Fig. 188,). From the highest point of the neck right at the shoulder slice, lay 2 see Points 1 and 2 connect a smooth line.

 The curved neckline of the front. From the highest point of the neck to the left at the shoulder slice, lay 2 cm (Fig. 188, d). From point 2 on the line of mid front, make a notch with a radius of 22 - 24 cm, put the point A and connect it with a dotted line from point 2. Dotted line divide in half. From the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 - 1.5 cm, and connect the obtained point of the smooth line with points 2 and A.

 Cutting and processing a set of collars (Fig. 189). The collar consists of two parts: the top and bottom of the collar. Sometimes the stiffness of the collar cut out a gasket from any dense fabric.

When cutting the middle of the upper and lower collars placed on to fold fabric in an equity or cross thread. The seams are added at 0.5 - 1.0 cm.

Primetyvajut the gasket to the underside of the lower collar. The top collar is folded with the lower right sides inside. At a distance of 2 cm from the edge of the departure lay a hand line ahead of the needle, the size of the stitches of 0.5 - 0.7 cm Then lay the second hand place at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge of the flight, slightly Posiva collar, the size of the stitches 0,2 - 0,3 cm, the First line is removed and on the second paving machine line. Thread smachivaniya removed, cut corners, laying side seam cut lines to the engine.The sections of the lower collar is cut to 0.2 cm, then turn the collar on the front side, on the edge of spawn, forming edge with a width of 1 - 2 mm from the upper part of the collar, the collar priorivet. At a distance of 2 cm from the line of vrachevanie collar lay a hand line, slightly Posiva collar. The slices are trimmed.

Collar stachivaya in the neck in several ways.

The collar can be vacilate with a scythe or podkralas bake.

The middle of the collar pin and primetyvajut to the line of the neck. Then the collar is applied Podkayne or slash bake face to the side of the collar, primetyvajut and pritachivajut at a distance of 0.6 cm from the edge. The sections of the collar are cut, bake bent towards the inside, the seam zametyvayut and priorivet. Slice bakey bends and sutured to the product.

You can vacate collar in the neck in another way. The lower collar with the gasket umatyvaet and stachivaya in the neck. The gasket from the side seam cut, the seam is folded in the direction of the collar and priorivet. The cut of the collar buckle and sew hidden stitches to machine stitches.

 One-piece collar with sharp sides. A product with a collar shown in Fig. 190. Shift collars tailor together with shelves.

 Line primaqiune.From the point B4 down in the middle of the shelves lay 10 - 12 cm and put the point a (Fig. 190, b). Point And connect the dotted line with the point B3 and continue this line up. From the point B3 on this line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2cm and put a point A1 (В3А1 = 18 : 3 + 2 = 8 cm). From the point A1 to the left and right upon the earth perpendicular to the line AA1. From the point A1 to the left perpendicular postpone 1 cm and put a point A2. Point A2 connect the smooth line by point B3.

 The middle line of the collar. From the point A1 to the right of the perpendicular lay of 8 cm and put a point A3. From point A3 up raise up to the line А1А3 perpendicular with a length of 0.8 cm and put a point A4. The points A4 and A2 connect the smooth concave line.

 The line of departure. From point A to the right along a horizontal line delay 2 - 2.5 cm and put a point A5. Through the point A5 down, spend a vertical line.

Through point B4 to the right hold horizontal line on which lay 3.5 cm, and put a point A6. Through the point A6 parallel to the line AA1 of the auxiliary conducting line, which lay 18 - 19 cm, and put a point A7. From the point A7 to the right raise up perpendicular to the line А4А7, which lay 3 cm, and put a point a Point A8 A8 connect smooth curved line from point A4 and a straight line with a point Q4.

Point A6 connect the dotted line with a point A5, the dotted line between these points is divided from the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.3 cm, connect the obtained point of the smooth line with points A6 and A5.

 One-piece collar with rounded edges. A product with a collar shown in Fig. 191.

 Line primaqiune.From the point B4 down in the middle of the shelves lay 10 - 12 cm and put the point a (Fig. 191, b). Point And connect the dotted line with the point B3 and continue this line up. From the point B3 on this line, lay up 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2cm and put a point A1 (В3А1 = 18 : 3 + 2 = 8 cm). From the point A1 to the left and right upon the earth perpendicular to the line AA1. From the point A1 to the left perpendicular postpone 1 cm and put a point A2. Point A2 connect the smooth line by point B3.

 The middle line of the collar. From the point A1 to the right of the perpendicular lay of 8 cm and put a point A3. From the point A3 to restore the normal length of 0.8 cm and put a point A4. The points A4 and A2 connect the smooth concave line.

 The line of departure. Through point And to the right to hold horizontal line on which they lay 2 - 2.5 cm, and put a point A5. Through the point A5 down, spend a vertical line.

From the point B4 lay down 2 cm and put a point A6. From the point B4 to the line the middle shelves continue up to 2 cm and put a point A7. Through points A6 and A7 hold right horizontal line, which lay to the right from 2 to 4 cm, and put the points A8 and A9. Point A8 connect the dotted line with the point A4, the dotted line between these points is divided in half, the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm Point A4, 0,5, A8, B4, A9 and A5 connect smooth lines.

 One-piece collar with narrow sides. A product with a collar shown in Fig. 192.

 Line primaqiuneFrom the point B4 down in the middle of the front lays 10 - 12 cm and put the point a (Fig. 192, b). Point And connect the dotted line with the point B3 and continue this line up. From the point B3 on this line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2cm and put a point A1 (В3А1 = 18 : 3 + 2 = 8 cm). From the point A1 to the left and right upon the earth perpendicular to the line AA1. From the point A1 to the left by the perpendicular lay of 0.5 cm and put a point A2. Points A2 and B3 to connect a smooth line.

 The middle line of the collar. From the point A1 to the right of the perpendicular lay 7 cm and put a point A3. From point A3 upon the earth perpendicular to the line А1А3 length of 0.5 cm and put a point A4. The points A4 and A2 connect the smooth concave line.

 Line of departure. From point A to the right along a horizontal line delay 2 - 2.5 cm and put a point A5. From the point B4 down in the middle of the front lay 1 cm and put a point A6. From the point A6 to the right hold horizontal line on which lay 5 cm, and put a point A7. Cut А6А7 divide in half and put a point A8. Point A7 and A4 connect the dotted line. From the point A7 up on the dotted line delay of 1.5 cm and put a point A9. The distance between the points A9 and A4 divided in half, the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm.The resulting point connect a smooth line with points A9 and A4. Point A7 connect the dotted line with the point A5. From the point A7 down on the dotted line postpone 1 cm and put a point a10. Point a10, A8, A9 connect straight lines. The distance between the points a10 and A5 is divided from the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.4 cm Obtained point connect a smooth line with points a10 and A5.

 Shift collar deep neck. A product with a collar shown in Fig. 193.

 Line primaqiuneFrom the point B4 down in the middle of the front lay 20 to 25 cm and put a point A (Fig. 193, b). Point And connect the dotted line with the point B3 and continue this line up. From the point B3 on this line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2cm and put a point A1 (В3А1 = 18 : 3 + 2 = 8 cm). From the point A1 to the left and right upon the earth perpendicular to the line AA1. From the point A1 to the left by the perpendicular lay of 0.5 cm and put a point A2. Point A2 connect the smooth line by point B3.

 The middle line of the collar. From the point A1 to the right of the perpendicular lay 7 cm and put a point A3. From point A3 upon the earth perpendicular to the line А1А3 length of 0.5 cm and put a point A4. Point A4, and connect A smooth concave line.

 Line of departure. From the point B4 down in the middle of the front lay 2 cm and put a point A5. Through the point A5 to the right hold horizontal line on which lay 6 cm and put a point A6. Cut А5А6 divide in half, down from the points of division conduct a vertical line where you postpone 1 cm and put a point A7. Point A4 connect a straight line with a point A6. The points A6, A7, And connect straight lines.

 Cutting and sewing one-piece collar.The lower collar cut out along with the shelf. The seams add lines primaqiune 0.5 cm in the midline of the collar of 1.0 - 1.5 cm, along the line of departure of 0.5 - 1.0 cm In the corners make the notch N (Fig. 194.)

Collar cut out exactly on the same thread as the bottom collar. Smatyvay all the product, then smatyvay the middle line of the lower collar and umatyvaet it in the neck. Doing a fitting.

Process all item (dress or blouse). Grind off the lower collar on the middle line, the seams rautureau on both sides. The lower collar stachivaya into the neck of the back (the seam width is 0.5 cm). The seam is bent towards the bottom of the collar and priorivet. You must ensure that when setting the bottom collar no pleats.

Grind off the collar on the middle line, the seam rautureau face put it on the front side of the lower collar and namachivajut at a distance of 2 cm from the slices of departure, then a second namachivajut at a distance of 0.5 cm from the slices, slightly Posiva collar. The first line of namachivanija removed and the second paving machine line. Corners are cut in the corners make the notch, turn the collar on the front side, on the edge of spawn, forming the edge of the upper collar width 1 - 2 mm, and priorivet. The lower edge of the lower collar concealed stitches sutured to the neck.The line LL1 collar bends towards the inside of 1.0 - 1.5 cm and paving machine line, priorivet and in several places it is attached to the product. Line ЛВ3 collar hem to the shoulder seam. The bottom collar is attached in several places to the dress.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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