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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Dress pants

The drawing of the pattern for this dress (Fig. 69) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat neck  18 Breast height  27
Poluobhvat chest  48 The center of the chest  9,5
Poluobhvat hips  53 The length of the dress  110
Back length to the waist line  38 Sleeve length  58
Front length to the waist line  43 Girth hands  29
Back width.  18 Seat height  28
Shoulder length  13,5    


 Construction drawing front and back. On the left side of a sheet of paper, 7 cm from the upper edge and 15 inches from the left of the cut, spend a vertical line, on which lay the yardstick length (110 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 70). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line.

 The width of the dress. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm free customized fit and put a point B. 
AB = 48 + 5 = 53, see 
Through the point To spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line and put the point H1. 

 Back length to the waist line. From point A down the line an lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 1 cm and old point T (at = 38 + 1 = 39 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line ВН1, the point of intersection denoted T1.

 Line step. From T point down the line an lay measure seat heights plus a 2.5 cm and put a point sh. 
TS = 28 a + 3.5 = 31.5 cm. 
Through point W to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line ВН1, the point of intersection represent SH1. 

 Line of the hips. From point W on the vertical up line lay 1/3 of the measurements seat height + 2 cm and put a point B.
SB = 28 : 3 + 2 = 11,3 cm 
Through point B to the right spend a horizontal line to the line ВН1 and put the point B1. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right of the line AB lay the measure of the width of the back plus 1.5 cm and put the point A1. 
AA1 = 18 a 1.5 = 19.5 cm 

 Width of the openings. From the point A1 to the right of the line AB lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 0.7 cm and put a point A2. 
A1A2 = 48 : 4 + 0,7 = 12,7 cm 
From the points A1 and A2 hold down the vertical line. 

 The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right along a horizontal line delay '/z measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point A3.
AA3 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see 
From point A3 raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm, and put a point A4. 
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 1 = 2.8 cm 
Angle АА3А4 divide in half, from point A3 at the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.2 cm and set point A5. 
А3А5 = 18 : 10 - 0,2 = 1.6 cm 
Points A4, A5 And connect a smooth concave line. 

 The shoulder cut of the back. From point A1 down in a vertical line lay 2.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 1.5 cm - for high shoulders, 3.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. the Point A4 and the P connect a straight line, on which lay the measure the shoulder length plus 1.6 - 2 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 cm on landing, and put a point P1. 
А4П1 = 13,5 + 1,6 + 0,5 = 15,6 cm 

 Build Darts from the shoulder cut of the back , see Fig. 196 in the section "Simulation"

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm (48 : 4 + 8 = 20 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm (48 : 4 + 7 = 19 cm). 
Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection with the line an denote G1, with a line width of openings - G2 and line ВН1 - G3. 

 Cut the armhole of the back. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2cm and put a point P2. 
ГП2 = GP : 3 + 2 = 19,5 : 3 + 2 = 8,5 see
The angle at the point П2ГГ4 divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.5 cm and put a point P3. 
ГП3 = 12,7 : 10 + 1,5 = 2.8 cm 
Line ГГ2 divided in half, the breaking point denoted G4. Points P1, P2, P3, G4, connect a smooth line. 

 Cut the armhole of the front. From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5.5 cm and put a point P4. 
Г2П4 = 48 : 4 + 5,5 = 17,5 cm 
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm (48 : 4 + 5 = 17 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6 cm (48 : 4 + 6 = 18 cm). 
From the point P4 to the left hold horizontal line on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest and put a point P5. 
П4П5 = 48 : 10 = 4,8 cm 
From the point of G2 up lay 1/3 of the line Г2П4 and put a point P6. 
Г2П6 = Г2П4 : 3 = 17,5 : 3 = 5,8 cm
Points P5 and P6 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half П5П6, from the points of division perpendicular to the right raise up on 1 see Get point 1. Angle Г4Г2П6 halve, from a point G2 on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm and put a point A7. 
Г2П7 = 12,7 : 10 + 0,8 = 2,1 see 
the Point P5, 1, P6, P7, G4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 Slice the neck of the front. From the point G3 up lines H1B lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 2cm and put the point B1. 
Г3В1 = 48 : 2 + 2 = 26 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 1 cm (48 : 2 + 1 = 25 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 3cm (48 : 2 + 3 = 27 cm). 
From the point of G2 up lines Г2А2 delay value of the segment Г3В1 and put a point B2. Points B1 and B2 connect the auxiliary straight line. 
From the point B1 to the left of the line В1В2 lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point B3. 
В1В3 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see 
point B1 down in a vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.5 cm and put a point Q4. 
В1В4 = 18 : 3 + 2,5 = 8,5 see
Points B3 and B4 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half В3В4. The breaking point connect the dotted line with the point B1. From point B1 on the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.6 cm and put a point B5. 
В1В5 = 18 : 3 + 1,6 = 7,6, see 
Point B3, B5, B4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G3 to the left in horizontal lines lay the measure of center of the chest plus 0.5 cm and put a point G5 (9,5 + 0,5 = 10 cm). From point G5 up spend a vertical line, the point of its intersection with a line В1В2 represent B6. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point B6 down in a vertical line delaying the measure height of the breast (27 cm) and put a point G6. 

 Shoulder cut line top of Darts. From the point B6 down postpone 1 cm and put a point V7. Points B7 and B3 connect by a straight line. Points B7 and P5 connect the dotted line. From the point P5 to the right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of В3В7, minus 0.3 cm and put a point B8. 
П5В8 = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm
Point G6 and B8 connect the dotted line, the continuation of which from point lay G6 value cut В7Г6, and put a point B9. Points B9 and A5 connect with a straight line. 

 The line side of the slice. From the point of G4 is lowered perpendicular to the line of the bottom, the point of intersection with the line of the waist, hips, line of the step and bottom line represent, respectively, T2, B2, R2, N2. 

 The calculation of the width of dress pants on the hips. To measure the poluobhvat hips add 3 - 4 cm for loose fit. From this amount, subtract the width of the dress you received when creating drawings backrest and shelves between points B and B1. The result is distributed equally between the front and back (53 + 3 = 56 cm; 56 - 53 = 3 cm; 3 : 2 = 1.5 cm). 
From the point B2 to the left and to the right on the hip line lay at 1.5 cm and dots B3 and B4. From points B3 and B4 hold down the vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line. The point of intersection with the line of step and underline denote SH3, Ш4 and H3 and H4. 

 The waist line. From the point T2 to the left and right waist lay on 2 - 2,5 cm and put points T3 and T4. Points T3 and 74 connect the straight lines with the point G4 and the dotted lines with points B3 and B4. Segments Т3Б4 and Т4Б3 divide in half, from the points of division in the direction of line sides raise perpendiculars, on which lay 0.5 cm plotting points connect smooth lines with points B3, T4 and B4, T3. 

 Line fasteners. B1 from the line up on a vertical line delay of 2 - 3 cm and put a point B5. From points B5 and B4 hold right horizontal line, which lay at 2.5 cm and connect the resulting points with a straight line. At a distance of 6 - 8 cm apart outline loop. 

 Line front the cut. From a point SH1 to the right hold horizontal line on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 1cm and put a point Ш5. 
Ш1Ш5 = 53 : 10 + 1 = 6,3 cm
SH1 from point up in a vertical line lay a distance equal to Ш1Ш5, and put a point Ш5. Point Ш5 and Ш6 connect the dotted line, divide the segment Ш5Ш6 into three equal parts, from the right of the dividing point to the left upon the earth perpendicular to the line Ш5Ш6, which lay their 1 see the resulting point, connect a smooth line with points 5 and Ш5. From the point Ш5 down, spend a vertical line, the intersection of it with the underline denote N5. 

 Fold line front halves. Line Ш3Ш5 divided in half, the point of division denote Ш7. Through the point Ш7 spend a vertical line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of the waist, hips and bottom represent letters of T5, B6, h6. 

 Auxiliary line of the middle slice. From the point W to the left along a horizontal line delay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 1cm and put a point sh8. 
ШШ8 = 53 : 10 + 1 = 6,3 cm 

 fold Line of the rear halves. Line Ш8Ш4 divided in half, the point of division denote Ш9. Through the point Ш9 spend a vertical line. The point of intersection of this line with the lines of the waist, hips and bottom denote T6, B7, N7.

 The extension of the line step. From the point sh8 left on a horizontal line delay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 2cm and put a point Ш10. 
ШШ10 = 53 : 10 + 2 = 7,3 cm
From point Ш10 is lowered down the vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection denoted H8. 
Angle БШШ10 divide in half, from point W along the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 0.5 cm and put a point Ш11. 
ШШ11 = 53 : 10 + 0,5 = 5,8 cm 
T Point, Ш11 and Ш10 connect a smooth concave line.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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