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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Elegant dress with insert

In Fig. 71 depicts a fancy dress with deep neck, elongated collar and insert. The insert can be made of lace fabric, you can embroider with pearls, or wool, matching dresses. Dress can be stitched with sleeves and without them. 

 Lines style (Fig. 72). The drawing of the pattern of this dress take the pattern shift dress size and put on her a-line style. 

 Before (see Fig. 72, a). Top tuck stand in the side cut. From the waist to the armhole line the side of the slice divided in half. The breaking point connects a straight line with the top of the upper tuck. The pattern for this line is cut, the upper tuck lay. 

 Back. From the middle of the neck of the back down the middle line lay 3 - 5 cm and put the point A.
From the line of the left armhole at the shoulder cut lay 5 - 6 cm and put the point A1. Points A and A1 connect the dotted line, divide the segment AA1 into three equal parts, from the right of the dividing point down upon the earth perpendicular to the dotted line, which lay 1.5 - 2.0 cm and put a point A2. Points A, A2 and A1 connect a smooth concave line. 
The pattern of the shelves with translated encircle tuck on a clean sheet of paper and proceed to the construction of the lower collar. 

 The lower collar (see Fig. 72, b). From the middle of the neck down the midline of the front lay 20 to 25 cm and put a point A. From the line to the right armhole at the shoulder cut lay 5 - 6 cm and put the point A1. Points A and A1 connect the dotted line.
The line of the shoulder cut shelves and continue right. From the point A1 to the right of this line lay the collar width of 9 - 10 cm and put a point A2. From point And raise up perpendicular to the line AA1. From point A perpendicular to the right lay the collar width of 9 - 10 cm and put a point A3. Point direct connect A2 from A3, continue this line beyond point A3 to 2 - 3 cm and put a point A4. The points A4 And connect with a straight line.
From the middle of the neck down the midline of the front lays 10 - 12 cm and put a point A5. Through the point A5 to the left, spend a horizontal line to the intersection with A1A line and put a point A6. А5А6 line will be the line of insertion. The lower collar cut out along with the shelf.
The pattern backless round on a clean sheet of paper to the chest (Fig. 73). From the point A (see Fig. 72, a) down the line mid-back delay value of the segment A1A2 (drawing shelves) and put a point A3 (see Fig. 73). The line of the shoulder cut, continue to the right. From the point A1 to the right of the line delay value of the segment A1A2 (drawing shelves) and put a point A4. 
From the line of the neck backless АА2А1 in several places, lay the value of the segment A1A2 and put the additional point. 
Then point A4 via the support points are linked with a dotted line with the point A3.
From the point A3 to the right of the dotted line delay of 1.5 - 2.0 cm and put a point A5. Points A5 and connect with a straight line. From the point A4 to the left along the dotted line lay 3 cm and put a point A6. Points A6 and A1 connect by a straight line. Points A5 and A6 connect with a solid line. The lower collar is cut out separately from the backrest. 

 The layout pattern and cutting fabric (Fig. 74). When the width of the fabric 140 cm product size 50 3 growth 1 m 50 cm cloth.
When the width of the fabric 90 cm need two lengths of fabric. Upper and lower collars backless, with this width of fabric cuts out the common thread from the fabric remaining after cutting back, as all other parts of the fabric remaining after cutting the shelves. In Fig. 74 shows a layout pattern of the dress with fabric width 140 cm
Fold the fabric in half width fold on the left side. An average slice of laid back to the fold of the fabric. On the right side, at a distance of 4 - 5 cm from the edges, the middle slice of the stack a shelf. To save fabric to the lower shelf collar podtraivaet nemestrina area of the lower collar, but strictly common thread.
The pattern of the upper collar is placed on the transverse filaments. Under the collar, cut out the gasket. The lower collar is placed back on the same thread that the top collar. To the left above back to the fold of the fabric stack panel. Cut slanting strips for rolica, the width of these strips in fit for 2.5 - 3.0 cm Piping armholes, backs and shelves are cut from the tissue located between the shelf and back. The facing of the armhole shelves - bridging.

 Sewing. Smatyvay middle sections of the front of the dress from the neckline to the hem, smatyvay Darts, shoulder and side sections. Smatyvay parts of the lower collar of the back and umatyvaet it in the neck, at the shoulder sections smatyvay him to the lower collar of the shelf. 
Do a first fitting, after the elimination of defects start sewing dresses. Sew Darts, zametyvayut them and priorivet. Sew the side sections, the seams rautureau and overcast.
Grind off parts of the lower collar of the back, seam rautureau. Stachivaya lower collar into the neckline of the back, iron the seam towards the collar. The shoulder cut along with sew lower collar seam rautureau. 
The lower the spread collar and cut it at the top of the collar. Allowances to the collar shown in Fig. 74.
Piping for processing armhole sew, the seams rautureau. External cut obrazek bends inside by 0.5 cm, zametyvayut, prostrachivajut, priorivet applied to the underarm, primetyvajut and pritachivajut on the line of the seam allowance. Allowances a little cut down from the armhole make a few nasechek, the basting is removed, piping folded inside out on the edge of spawn, forming edge with a width of 1 - 2 mm from part top. Processed slices obrazek sew hidden stitches for the armhole.
To the underside of the lower collar primetyvajut gasket. The upper collar, sew in the middle back, seam rautureau, then the upper collar impose a face on the front side of the bottom collar, namachivajut it on the bottom collar on the line of the seam allowance slightly Posiva the upper collar, grind, thread namachivanija removed the gasket from the side seam cut lines to the engine, corners are cut in the ledge of the collar make nadziejko, turn the collar on the front side, on the edge of spawn, forming edge with a width of 1 - 2 mm from the upper part of the collar. Collar priorivet. The cut neck backless collar bends inwards a little Posiva and sew hidden stitches to seam vrachevanie the bottom of the collar. The inner section of the upper collar to buckle inside by 0.5 cm, and prostrachivajut priorivet. At the top the upper sections of the collar sew cross stitches to the shoulder seam, bottom middle seam shelves. The rest of the collar in several places attached to the dress.
Hem bottom of the dress, stachivaya zip. Dress iron. 
The top of the insert along the line of the seam allowance on bends inside out and sew cross stitches. If the fabric is not very dense, then the box cuts out the lining, in this case the seam allowance to be sewed to the lining. Insert priorivet, edge call and overcast. The inset is embroidered with pearls. Ksli is an inset of lace fabric, it is sewn on the dress, on the edge of the overcast. 
For decoration under the collar, you can pin the flower.
The flower can be drawn from the cord itself. For this of fabric dress is cut oblique bakey width of 2,5 - 3,0 cm Bakey sew between the seams rautureau. Bake fold in half face inside, smatyvay and sew from the fold to 0.7 - 0.8 cm Slice a little cut, bake turn on the front side, slightly priorivet. From the resulting cord spread flower type Daisy petals. 
In the middle of the flower, you can sew a few beads of pearls.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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