The drawing of the pattern of the jacket (Fig. 129) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

 Draw the pattern of the back and shelves. On the left side of the sheet of paper 10 centimeters from the upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the jacket (63 cm) and place points A and N (Fig. 130). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 The width of the jacket. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 6cm and put a point At (48 + 6 = 54 cm). Through the point In spend a vertical line, the point of intersection with the line of the bottom indicate H1.

 Length to the waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 1 cm and put a point T (38 + 1 = 39 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line, the point of intersection with the line ВН1 denote T1. 

 Line of the hips. From point T down on a vertical line lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right is carried out in a horizontal line, the intersection of this line with the line ВН1 denote B1. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the measure of the width of the back plus a 1.3 cm and put a point A1.
AA1 = 18 + 1,3 = 19,3 cm 

 Width of the openings. From the point A1 to the right of the line AB lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 0.9 cm and put a point A2. 
A1A2 = 48 : 4 + 0,9 = 12,9, see 
Through the points A1 and A2 hold the vertical line. 

 The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right of the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.7 cm and put a point A3. 
AA3 = 18 : 3 + 0,7 = 6,7, see 
Through point A3 is carried out a vertical line on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.8 cm, and put a point A4. 
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 0,8 = 2,6 cm
Angle АА3А4 divide in half, from point A3 at the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.2 cm and set point A5. 
А3А5 = 18 : 10 - 0,2 = 1.6 cm 
Points A4, A5 and connect a smooth line. 

 The shoulder cut of the back. From point A1 down in a vertical line lay 2.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 1.5 cm - for high shoulders, 3.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. 
the Point A4 and the P connect a straight line, on which lay the measure the shoulder length plus 1.6 - 2 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 cm on the landing and put a point P1. 
А4П1 = 13,5 + 2 + 0,5 = 16 cm.

 The construction of tuck from the shoulder cut of the back , see Fig. 196 in the section "Simulation". 

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 8 = 20 refer 
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8.5 cm (48 : 4 + 8,5 = 20.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm (48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm). 
Through the point G is carried out in a horizontal line, the point of intersection with the line an denote G1, with a line width of openings - G2 and line ВН1 - G3. 

 Cut the armhole of the backrest. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2cm and put a point P2. 
ГП2 = 20,1 : 3 + 2 = 8,7 cm 
Angle П2ГГ2 divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.5 cm and put a point P3. 
ГП3 = 12,9 : 10 + 1,5 = 2.8 cm 
Cut ГГ2 divide in half and put a point G4 (12,9 : 2 = 6.5 cm). Points P1, P2, P3, G4, connect a smooth line. 

 The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6cm and put a point P4. 
Г2П4 = 48 : 4 + 6 = 18 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5.5 cm (48 : 4 + 5,5 = 17.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6.5 cm (48 : 4 + 6,5 = 18.5 cm). 
From point P4 hold the left horizontal line, which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P5 (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). 
From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance Г2П4 and put a point P6. 
Г2П6 = Г2П4 : 3 = 18 : 3 = 6 cm.
Points P5 and P6 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half П5П6 from the dividing point to the right raise up perpendicular to this line, on which lay 1 cm, put a dot 1. Angle Г4Г2П6 halve, from a point G2 on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm and put a point A7.
Г2П7 = 12,9 : 10 + 0,8 = 2,1 see 
the Point P5, 1, P6, P7, G4 connect a smooth line. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From the point G3 up the line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest, plus a 2.5 cm and put the point B1. 
Г3В1 = 48 : 2 + 2,5 = 26,5 cm
From the point of G2 up lines Г2А2 lay a segment equal to segment Г3В1, and put a point B2. Points B1 and B2 connect by a straight line. 
From the point B1 to the left of the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.7 cm and put a point B3. 
В1В3 = 18 : 3 + 0,7 = 6,7 cm 
From a point B1 down in a vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.3 cm and put a point Q4. 
В1В4 = 18 : 3 + 2,3 = 8,3 cm
Points B3 and B4 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half В3В4, point dividing the join the dotted line with the point B1. From point B1 on the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.2 cm and put a point B5. 
В1В5 = 18 : 3 + 1,2 = 7,2, see 
Point B3, B5, B4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G3 to the left in horizontal lines lay the measure of center of the chest plus 0.5 cm and put a point G6 (9,4 + 0,5 = 10 cm). Through the point G6 spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line В1В2, the point of intersection represent B6. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point B6 down in a vertical line delaying the measure height of the breast (27 cm) and put a point G7. 

 Shoulder cut line tuck. From the point B6 down in a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point V7. Points B7 and B3 connect by a straight line. Points B7 and P5 connect the dotted line. From the point P5 to the right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of В3В7 minus 0.3 cm and put a point B8. 
П5В8 = 13,5 - 3,3 - 0,3 = 9,9 cm
Point G7 and B8 connect with a straight line, the continuation of which from point lay G7 a value equal to the segment В7Г7, and put a point B9. Points B9 and A5 connect with a straight line. 

 The auxiliary line side cut. From the point G to the right of the line lay 1/3 of the width of the openings, and put a point G5 (12,9 : 3 = 4.3 cm). From the point G5 is lowered perpendicular to the line of bottom. The point of intersection with the line of the waist, hips and bottom indicate T2, B2, H2. 

 The calculation of the depth of the tucks at the waist. To determine the value of the solution tucks need to find the difference between the width of the scarf on the chest (with allowance for the free fit) and the width of the scarf at your waist line (in this case 54 - 38 = 16). If you allocate all the difference in the required number of tucks, the jacket will fit tightly at the waist. To the waist line you can add 2 - 4 cm in a free fit (38 + 2 = 40 cm), and then subtract the result from the width of the product (54 - 40 = 14 cm). 
The value of the solution front tuck is 0.25 of the total solution tucks (14 x 0.25 = 3.5 cm).
The magnitude of the side-tuck of 0.35 of the total solution tucks (14 x 0.35 = 4.9 cm). 
The value of the solution of the two rear recesses is equal to 0.4 of the total solution tucks (13 ° 0,4=5.6 cm). The value of one rear Darts equal to 5,6 : 2 = 2.8 cm 
 note. If the difference between the poluobhvat chest with allowance for free customized fit and poluobhvat waist is small, then instead of two back Darts to make one. If in the middle back for style seam will be, one of the Darts can be picked up at the seam. On the shelf you can make an extra tuck (in the drawing it is shown by the dotted line). 

 The side sections. To calculate the width of the scarf at the hip line to measure the poluobhvat hips add 2 - 3cm to free fit, from the obtained value subtracted the width of the jacket, obtained during the building of the drawing between the points B and B1 (53 + 3 - 54 = 2 cm). The result is distributed equally between the front and back (2 : 2 = 1 cm). From the point B2 to the left and right postpone 1 cm and put the points B3 and B4. 
From the point T2 to the left and right waist lay on the half of the depth of the solution side tuck and put points T3 and T4. Points T3 and T4 connect straight lines from point G5 and continue the lines up to the line of openings.
Point T3, B4 and T4, B3 connect the dotted lines, line segments Т3Б4 and Б3Т4 divide in half, from the points of division in the direction of line sides restore the perpendiculars to these segments, putting them at 0.5 cm the resulting points connected to the point T3, B4 and T4, B3 smooth lines. From points B3 and B4 is lowered perpendicular to the line of the bottom, the point of intersection with underline denote H3 and H4. 

 The length of the shelves to the waist line. From point B1 down the line В1Н1 lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist plus 1 cm and put a point T5. Points T4 and T5, connect a smooth line. 

 The hips of the front. From point B1 down in a vertical line delay value of the segment Т1Т5 and put a point B5. Point B5 and B3 that connect a smooth line. 

 The bottom line the shelves of the jacket. A vertical line В1Н1 continue down. From the point H1 down the line delay value of the segment Т5Т1 and put a point H5. Point N5 and Н3соединяют a smooth line. 

 Cut the neck and side shelves single-breasted jacket. From the point B4 down in a vertical line lay 1 - 2 cm and put a point O. Point O and B3 connect a smooth line. From a point On the right spend a horizontal line on which the points lay About 3 to 4 cm and put a point O1.
From point T5 and H5 hold right horizontal lines on which they lay 2 - 3 cm, and put the points O2 and O3 and connect them with a straight line. Points O1 and O2 connect as a dotted line, dotted line, divide in half, from the points of division to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points O2 and O1, continue this line up to 0.7 cm and connect its end to a straight line with a point O 

 Cut neckline and side shelves double-breasted jacket. From a point About on a horizontal line lay 8 cm and put a point O4. From a point On the right of the line lay 2 see Point 2 connect a smooth line by point B3. From point T5 and H5 to the right along the horizontal lines delay to 7 cm and put the points O5 and O6. The points O5 and O6 connect with a straight line. Point O5 and O4 connect the dotted line, dotted line, divide in half, from the points of division to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points O5 and O4 and continue this line up to 1 see the end of the line connect a straight line with a point 2.

 The design of the Darts on the shelf. Through the point G6 down spend a vertical line to the hip line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of waist and hips refer T6 and B6. From the point G6 down along the vertical line lay 5 cm From the B6 up points on a vertical line lay 5 cm, dot 5. From the point T6 to the left and right of the line Т5Т4 lay in the half depth front tuck, put points T7 and T8 and connect them by straight lines with points 5. 

 The design of the Darts on the back. The distance between the points G and G1 is divided from the dividing point to the left along a horizontal line postpone 1 cm and put a point G8. Point G8 spend a vertical line to the hip line. The point of intersection with the line of waist and hips refer T9 and B7. From the point T9 to the left and right waist lay on the half of the depth of one rear tuck and put points T10 and T11. From point 8 down vertical lines lay 2 cm From the point B7 up vertical lines lay 3, see Point 2 and 3 connect the straight lines with points T10 and T11.
To build the second rear tuck distance between the points T11 and T3 is divided in half, the dividing point T12 to the left and right waist lay on the half of the depth of the second rear tuck and put points T13 and T14. Through the point of division conduct a vertical line, the point of intersection with the line Г1Г3 indicate Г9, hips - B8. From the point Г9 down the line lay 2 cm, from the point B8 up the line lay 3, see Point 2 and 3 connect the straight lines with points T13 And T14. 

 Construction drawing patterns double seam sleeves. Before the creation of the drawing pattern sleeves, you need to make a preliminary calculation. 

 Sleeve width at the top equal measure girth hands, plus 8 - 9 cm (29 + 9 = 38 cm). 

 Sleeve width at the bottom equal measure of wrist circumference plus 8 cm (18 + 8 = 26 cm). 

 Sleeve length. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay scoop sleeve length 60 cm and put points A and N (Fig. 131). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 Sleeve width. From point A to the right lay 1/2 of the width of the sleeve (preliminary calculation) and put a point In (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through the point In hold down vertical line, point of intersection with the line of the bottom of the sleeves denote H1. 

 The line of the elbow. From point A down the vertical line delay measurements length sleeves to the elbow plus 2cm and put a point L (32 + 2 = 34 cm). Through the point L, hold right horizontal line, the intersection of this line with the line ВН1 denote L1. 

 The height of the top part of the sleeve. From point A down the vertical line lay 1/4 of the depth of the armhole and put the point O. 
AO = 20 4 x 3 = 15 cm.
Through the point On the right spend a horizontal line, the intersection of this line with the line ВН1 denote O1. 

 The top part of the sleeve. Lines AO and VO1 is divided into three equal parts. The dividing point of the line AO denote the O2 and O3. The points of division lines SP1 denote the O4 and O5. The line AB is divided, the breaking point denoted A1. From a point On the left continue a horizontal line, lay on it for 4 cm and put a point A6. Through the point O5 to the right hold horizontal line on which lay 4 cm and put a point O7. The points A1, O3, O6 connect the dotted lines. The dotted line between the points O6 and O3 divided in half, the dividing point down a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm.The resulting point connect a smooth line with points O3 and O6. The dotted line between the points O3 and A1 is divided, the breaking point denoted A2. Point A2 connect the dotted line with point A. Divide the line into three equal parts, the lower end of the division designate A3. The points A1 and A4 connect the dotted line, divide the dotted line between these points in half, from the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay a 1.2 - 1.3 cm and put a point A4. Points O3, A3, A1, A4, O4, O7, connect a smooth line.

 The front section of the upper half of the sleeve. From the point N up vertical lines lay 2 cm and put a point of H2. From the point H2 to the left hold horizontal line on which lay 4 cm and put a point H3. From point L left, hold horizontal line on which lay 2 cm and put a point L2. Points A6, A2, H3 connect straight lines. 

 The elbow section of the upper halves of the sleeves. From the point L1 to the right hold horizontal line on which lay 4 cm and put a point L3. The point O7 and L3 connect the dotted line. From the point O7 down along the dotted line lay 9 cm, put a point 9. From the point N to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the width of the sleeve hem (on a preliminary calculation) plus 1 cm and put a point H4 (26 : 2 + 1 = 14 cm). Points H4 and connect the 9-dashed line, dotted line, divide in half, from the points of division to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 - 1.2 cm and connect the resulting point to a smooth line with points 9 and H4.

 The bottom line is. The points H3, H2, H4 connect a smooth line. 

 Fold line front of the sleeve. From point L to the right horizontally lay 2 cm and put a point L4. Point O, L4, H2 connect straight dotted lines. 

 The front edge of the lower halves of the sleeve. From the points, L4 and H2 to the right lay for 3 cm, dots A8, L5, N5 and connect them with straight lines. 

 The ulnar edge of the lower halves of the sleeves. From the point O5 to the left spend a horizontal line. From point A8 to the right horizontally lay the width of the sleeve (preliminary calculation) minus the width of the upper halves of the sleeves (38 - 27 = 11 cm) and put a point E9. 
From the point L5 to the right horizontal delay value of the segment О8О9 minus 1 cm and put a point L6 (11 - 1 = 10 cm).
From H2 to the right of the line Н2Н4 lay the width of the sleeve at the bottom on a preliminary calculation minus the width of the upper halves of the sleeve hem (26 - 18 = 8 cm) and put a point h6. Point h6, L6, E9 connect straight lines. Line L6, E9 continue up to a point its intersection with the extension of the line О5О7 represent the A10. The distance between the points A8, A9 divided into three equal parts. Point A10 connect a smooth line with the left point of division and a point A8. 

 Draw the pattern of the collar to the single-breasted jacket. On the left side spend a vertical line, which lay 8 - 10 cm, and put points A and N (Fig. 132). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 The length of the collar. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point At (18 + 1,5 = 19,5 cm). Through the point In spend a vertical line, the point of intersection with the lower line indicate H1. 

 Line vrachevanie collar. From the point N up on a vertical line lay 1 cm, put a dot 1. From the point N to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point of H2. From point N1 up vertical lines lay 3 cm, dot 3. Point 3, H2, 1 connect a smooth line. 

 Line of departure of the collar. AB line, continue to the right by 1 - 3 cm and put the point B1. Point B1 and 3 connect with a straight line.

 Note. Draw the pattern of the collar to the double breasted suit similar to the construction drawing of the pattern of the collar to the single-breasted suit, but to the length of the collar add not 1.5 cm, 2 - 3 cm.