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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Jacket autumn suit (with one layer of batting)

The drawing of the pattern of this costume (Fig. 133) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat neck  18 Front length to the waist line  43
Poluobhvat chest  48 Shoulder length  13,5
Poluobhvat hips  53 Back width.  18
The center of the chest  9,5 Girth hands  29
Breast height  27 Sleeve length to elbow  32
Jacket length  65 Sleeve length  60
Back length to the waist line  38 The circumference of the wrist  18


 Draw the pattern of the back and shelves. On the left side of the sheet of paper 10 centimeters from the upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the jacket (65 cm) and place points A and N (Fig. 134). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 The width of the jacket. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm and put a point At (48 + 8 = 56 cm). Through the point In spend a vertical line, the point of intersection with the line of the bottom indicate H1. 

 Length to the waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay measure the length of the back to the waist line, plus 1.5 cm put a point T (38 at + 1.5 = 39.5 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line, the point of intersection with the line ВН1 denote T1. 

 Line of the hips. From point T down on a vertical line lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right is carried out in a horizontal line, the intersection of this line with the line ВН1 denote B1. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the measure of the width of the back plus 1.8 cm and put a point A1.
AA1 = 18 + 1,8 = 19,8 cm 

 Width of the openings. From the point A1 to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 2.2 cm and put a point A2. 
A1A2 = 48 : 4 + 2,2 = 14.2 cm 
Through the points A1 and A2 is carried out vertical lines down. 

 The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right of the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.2 cm and put a point A3. 
AA3 = 18 : 3 + 1,2 = 7,2 cm 
Through point A3 is carried out a vertical line on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point A4. 
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 1 = 2.8 cm
Angle АА3А4 divide in half, from point A3 at the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck and put a point A5. 
А3А5 = 18 : 10 = 1.8 cm 
Points A4, A5 and connect a smooth line. 

 The shoulder cut of the back. From point A1 down vertical line delay of 2.5 cm for normal shoulder length, 1.5 cm for the high shoulders, 3.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. the Point A4 and the P connect a straight line on which the point A4-lay measure the shoulder length plus 2 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 cm on the landing and put a point P1 (13,5 + 2 + 0,5 = 16 cm). 

 The construction of tuck from the shoulder cut of the back see Fig, 196 in the section "Simulation"

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 9 = 21, refer 
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9.5 cm (48 : 4 + 9,5 = 21.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8.5 cm (48 : 4 + 8,5 = 20.5 cm). 
Through the point G is carried out in a horizontal line, the point of intersection with the line an denote G1, with a line width of openings - G2 and line ВН1 - G3. 

 Cut the armhole of the backrest. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2cm and put a point P2. 
ГП2 = GP : 3 + 2 = 21 : 3 + 2 = 9 see 
Angle П2ГГ2 divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.6 cm and put a point P3. 
ГП3 = 13,8 : 10 + 1,6 = 3 cm 
Cut ГГ2 divided in half, the breaking point denoted G4. Points P1, P2, P3, G4, connect a smooth line. 

 The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm and put a point P4. 
Г2П4 = 48 : 4 + 7 = 19 see
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6.5 cm (48 : 4 + 6,5 = 18.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm (48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm). 
From point P4 hold the left horizontal line, which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P5 (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). 
From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance Г2П4 plus 0.5 cm and put a point P6. 
Г2П6 = Г2П4 : 3 + 0,5 = 19 : 3+ 0,5 = 6,8 see
Points P5 and P6 connect a dotted line to divide a dotted line between these points in half, from the dividing point to the right raise up perpendicular to this line, which postpone 1 cm and put 1 point. Angle Г4Г2П6 target in half, from the point G2 on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm and put a point A7. 
Г2П7 = 13,8 : 10 + 0,8 = 2.2 cm 
Points P5, 1, P6, P7, G4 connect a smooth line. 

 Line Boca. From the point G to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of the width of the armhole plus 1 cm and put a point G5 (14,2 : 3 + 1 = 5.7 cm). Through the point G5 down, spend a vertical line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of the waist, hips and bottom indicate T2, B2, H2. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From the point G3 up the line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 3.5 cm and put the point B1. 
Г3В1 = 48 : 2 + 3,5 = 27,5 cm 
For the hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest, plus a 2.5 cm (48 : 2 + 2,5 = 26.5 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 4.5 cm (48 : 2 + 4,5 = 28.5 cm). 
From the point of G2 up lines Г2А2 lay a segment equal to segment Г3В1, and put a point B2. Points B1 and B2 connect by a straight line. 
From the point B1 to the left of the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.2 cm and put a point B3. 
В1В3 = 18 : 3 + 1,2 = 7,2 cm 
From a point B1 down in a vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.5 cm and put a point Q4. 
В1В4 = 18 : 3 + 2,5 = 8,5 see
Points B3 and B4 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half В3В4, point dividing the join the dotted line with the point B1. From point B1 on the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.3 cm and put a point B5. 
В1В5 = 18 : 3 + 1,3 = 7,3, see 
Point B3, B5, B4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G3 to the left in horizontal lines lay the measure of center of the chest plus 1 cm and put a point G6 (with 9.5 + 1 = 10.5 cm). Through the point G6 hold up the vertical line to the line В1В2, the point of intersection with this line indicate B6. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point B6 down in a vertical line delaying the measure height of the breast (27 cm) and put a point G7. 

 Shoulder cut line tuck. From the point B6 down in a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point V7. Points B7 and B3 connect by a straight line. Points B7 and P5 connect the dotted line. From the point P5 to the right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of В3В7, minus 0.3 cm and put a point B8. 
П5В8 = 13,5 - 3,3 - 0,3 = 9,9 cm
Point G7 and B8 connect with a straight line, the continuation of which from point lay G7-size cut В7Г7 and put a point B9. Points B9 and A5 connect with a straight line. 

 The length of the shelves to the waist line. From point B1 down the line В1Н1 lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist plus 1 cm and put a point T3. Points T3 and T2, connect a smooth line. 

 The hips of the shelves. From point B1 down in a vertical line delay value of the segment Т1Т3, and put a point B3. The points B3 and B2 connect a smooth line. 

 Line the bottom of the product. A vertical line В1Н1 continue down. From the point H1 down the line delay value of the segment Т1Т3 and put a point H3. The points N2 and N3 connect a smooth line. 

 Line Board. From points B4 and H3 hold right horizontal line, which lay 3 to 3.5 cm, and put point O and O1. Point O1 connect a straight line with a point O continue this line up to 0.5 cm and connect the obtained point of the smooth line by point Q4. 

 Construction drawing of the pattern sleeve similar to the construction patterns of the sleeves to the jacket (see Fig. 131).



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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