The drawing of the pattern of the jacket (see Fig. 125 the figure to the left) must be removed following measurements:

 Draw the pattern of the back and shelves. On the left side of a sheet of paper, stepping on 6 cm from the upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the jacket (70 cm) and place points A and N (Fig. 142, a). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line.

 The width of the jacket. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm free customized fit, and put a point At (48 + 5 = 53 cm). Through the point In down spend a vertical line, the intersection of it with the underline denote H1. 

 Back length to the waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 1 cm and put a point T (38 + 1 = 39 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line, the point of its intersection with a line ВН1 denote T1. 

 Line of the hips. From point T down on a vertical line lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right is carried out in a horizontal line, the point of its intersection with a line ВН1 denote B1. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the measure of the width of the back plus 1.5 cm and put the point A1.
AA1 = 18 a 1.5 = 19.5 cm 

 Width of the openings. From the point A1 to the right of the line AB lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 1 cm and put a point A2. 
A1A2 = 48 : 4 + 1 = 13 see 
Through the points A1 and A2 hold down the vertical line. 

 The level of the blades. From point A down the vertical line delay 4/10 measurements of the length of the back to the waist line and put a point At (38 : 10 x 4 = 15.2 cm). 

 A medium cut backless. From point A to the right by the line AA1 delay of 0.5 cm and put a point A0. Point A0 connect a smooth line with point (hunched figures lay 1 cm, for figures with flat backs construction of cut backs starting from point A). From T point to the right waist postpone 1 cm and put a point T2. Points T2 and connect a smooth line. Through the points T2 and B hold a straight line down the point of intersection of this line and the bottom line is denoted H2. 

 The cut of the neckline backless. From the point A0 to the right along the line AB. lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point A3. 
А0А3 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see
Through point A3 is carried out a vertical line up, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm, and put a point A4. 
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 1 = 2.8 cm 
Angle АА3А4 divide in half, from point A3 at the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.2 cm and set point A5. 
А3А5 = 18 : 10 - 0,2 = 1.6 cm 
Points A4, A5, A0 connect a smooth concave line. 

 Shoulder cut. From point A1 down vertical line delay of 2.5 cm for normal shoulder length, 1.5 cm for the high shoulders, 3.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. the Point A4 and the P connect a straight line, which from the point A4 to the right lay the measure the shoulder length plus 1.6 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 cm for landings and put a point P1. 
А4П1 = 13,5 + 1,6 + 0,5 = 15,6 cm 

 Build Darts from the shoulder cut of the back , see Fig. 196 in the section "Simulation". 

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 8 = 20 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8.5 cm (48 : 4 + 8,5 = 20.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm (48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm). 
Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line, the intersection point of this line and EN denote G1, with a line width of openings - G2 and line ВН1 - G3. 

 Cut the armhole of the back. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2cm and put a point P2. 
ГП2 = GP : 3 + 2 = 20 : 3 + 2 = 8,7 see
Angle П2ГГ2 divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.5 cm and put a point P3. 
ГП3 = 13 : 10 + 1,5 = 2.8 cm 
Cut ГГ2 divided in half, the breaking point denoted G4. Points P1, P2, P3, G4, connect a smooth line. 

 The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6cm and put a point P4. 
Г2П4 = 48 : 4 + 6 = 18 cm 
For the hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5.5 cm (48 : 4 + 5,5 = 17.5 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6.5 cm (48 : 4 + 6,5 = 18.5 cm). 
From point P4 hold the left horizontal line, which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P5 (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance Г2П4 and put a point P6 (18 : 3 = 6 cm).
Points P5 and P6 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half П5П6 from the dividing point to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 cm, put a dot 1. Angle П6Г2Г halve, from a point G2 on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm and put a point A7. 
Г2П7 = 13 : 10 + 0,8 = 2,1 see 
the Point P5, 1, P6, P7, G4 connect a smooth line. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From the point G3 up the line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest, plus a 2.5 cm and put the point B1. 
Г3В1 = 48 : 2 + 2,5 = 26,5 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest, plus 1.5 cm (48 : 2 + 1,5 = 25,5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 3.5 cm (48 : 2 a + 3.5 = 27.5 cm). 
From the point of G2 up lines Г2А2 lay a segment equal to segment Г3В1, and put a point B2. Points B1 and B2 connect by a straight line. 
From the point B1 to the left of the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point B3. 
В1В3 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see 
point B1 down in a vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.3 cm and put a point Q4. 
В1В4 = 18 : 3 + 2,3 = 8,3 cm
Points B3 and B4 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half В3В4, point dividing the join the dotted line with the point B1. From point B1 on the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.2 cm and put a point B5. 
В1В5 = 18 : 3 + 1,2 = 7,2, see 
Point B3, B5, B4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G3 to the left on a horizontal line delay measure the distance between the protruding points of the chest plus 0.5 cm and put a point G5 (9,5 + 0,5 = 10 cm). From point G5 hold up a vertical line, the point of its intersection with a line В1В2 represent B6. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point B6 down in a vertical line delaying the measure height of the breast (27 cm) and put a point G6. 

 Shoulder cut line tuck. From the point B6 down in a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point V7. Points B7 and B3 connect by a straight line. Points B7 and P5 connect the dotted line. From the point P5 to the right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of В3В7, minus 0.3 cm and put a point B8. 
П5В8 = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm
Point G6 and B8 connect with a straight line, the continuation of which point G6 defer an amount equal to В7Г6 segment and put a point B9. Points B9 and A5 connect with a straight line. 

 The auxiliary line side cut. From the point G to the right of the line lay 1/3 of the width of the openings, and put a point G7 (13 : 3 = 4.3 cm). From the point of G7 is lowered perpendicular to the line of bottom. The point of intersection of the perpendicular with the line of the waist, hips and bottom denote T3, B2, H3. 

 The calculation of the depth of the tucks at the waist. To determine the value of the solution tucks need to find the difference between the width of the scarf on the chest (with allowance for the free fit) and the width of the scarf at the waist (with allowance for free customized fit). In this case: 48 + 5 = 53; 38 + 2 = 40 cm; 53 - 40 = 13 cm the Value the solution all - tucks equal to 13 cm minus 1 cm slice in the middle of the back. The remaining 12 cm are distributed on the front, back and side Darts. The value of the solution front tuck is 0.25 of the total solution tucks (12 x 0,25 = 3 cm).The value of the solution side tuck equal to 0.4 of the total solution tucks (12 x 0.4 = 4.8 cm). The value of the solution tucks on the back of 0.35 of the total solution tucks (12 x 0.35 = 4.2 cm).

 The side cut. To calculate the width of the scarf at the hip line to measure the poluobhvat hips add 3 cm to free fit, from the obtained value subtracted the width of the jacket, obtained during the building of the drawing between the points BB1 (53 + 3 - 53 = 3 cm). The result is distributed equally between the front and back: 3 : 2 = 1.5 cm From the point B2 to the left and right delay to 1.5 cm and dots B3 and B4.
From the point T3 to the left and right waist lay on the half of the depth of the solution side tuck and put points T5 and T4. Points T5 and T4 connect the straight lines with the point of the G7 and the dotted lines with points B3 and B4. Segments Т5Б3 and Т4Б4 divide in half, from the points of division in the direction of line sides restore the perpendiculars to these segments, which lay at 0.5 cm plotting points connect smooth lines with points T5, B4 and T4, B3. From N3 to the left and right on a horizontal line delay to 3 cm and put the points N4 and N5. Points H4 and H5 connect the straight lines with points B3 and B4.

 The length of the shelves to the waist line. From point B1 down the line В1Н1 lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist plus 1 cm and put a point T6. Points T6 and T5, connect a straight line. 

 The hips of the shelves. From point B1 down in a vertical line delay value of the segment Т1Т6, and put a point B5. Point B5 and B3 connect by a straight line. 

 Line the bottom of the jacket. A vertical line В1Н1 continue down. From the point H1 down the line delay value of the segment Т1Т6, and put a point h6. Point h6 and H4 connect with a straight line. 

 Line side. From points B4 and N6 conduct the right horizontal line, which lay at 2.5 cm, plotting points connect with a straight line. 

 Making Darts on the back. The distance between the points G and G1 is divided, from the point of division is carried down the vertical line, the point of intersection of this line with the line of waist and hips refer to T7 and B6. From point 8 down vertical lines lay 2 see point B6 up on a vertical line lay 3, see dot 2 and 3. From the point T7 to the left and right waist lay on the half of the depth of the back Darts and put points T8 and T9. Points T8 and T9 connect the straight lines with points 2 and 3. 

 The design of the tuck on the shelf. Through the point G5 hold down the vertical line to the hip line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of waist and hips refer T10 and B7. From the point G6 down along the vertical line lay 5 cm From the point B7 up the same line lay 5 cm dot 5 and 5'. From the point T10 to the left and right waist lay on the half depth front tuck and dot T11 and T12. Points T11 and T12 connect the straight lines with points 5 and 5'. 

 Line podraza on the shelf. From the point T6 lay down 5 - 6 cm and put a point T13. From the point T13 to the left, hold the line, parallel lines Т6Т5, the point of intersection with line side represent the T14. 
Top tuck was transferred to the waistline, for what end tuck at the waist is connected to the upper end of the tuck. The pattern on this line is cut, the top dart closed. 

 Pocket. The length of the pocket. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay 17 - 18 cm and put points A and N (Fig. 142, b). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 The width of the pocket. From point A to the right along a horizontal line delay 16 - 17 cm and put a point A1. Through the point A1 is carried out a vertical line down the point of intersection with the lower line indicate H1. From points H and H1 up into the pocket and set aside for 3 see On these points make the curve of the pocket. 

 Valve length. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, which lay 4 cm and put points A and N (see Fig. 142, b). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 Valve width. From point A to the right along a horizontal line delay value of the segment AA1 (pocket drawing) and put a point A1. Through the point A1 is carried out a vertical line to the intersection with the horizontal line going from point N, the intersection point denoted H1. 
The distance between the points H, H1 is divided in half, the dividing point is lowered perpendicular to the line НН1, which lay 2 cm and put a point of H2. From points H and H1 up vertical lines lay 2 cm dot 2 and 2'. Point A, 2, H2, 2', A1 connect as shown in the drawing. 

 Construction drawing of the pattern sleeve seeThe jacket attached at the waist. 

 The layout pattern and the seam shown in Fig. 143.