The drawing of the pattern of this blouse (Fig. 34) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Before the creation of the drawing pattern blouse, to make a preliminary calculation. 

 Blouse width is equal to the measure of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm (48 + 5 = 53 cm). 

 Back width is equal to the measure of the width of the back, plus 1.5 cm (18 + 1,5 = 19,5 cm). 

 The width of openings equal to 1/4 of the measure poluobhvat chest plus 1 cm (48 : 4 + 1 = 13 cm). 

 The width of the front equal to the width of the blouse minus the width of the back and armholes (53 - 19,5 - 13 = 20.5 cm). 

 Construction drawing patterns backless. On the left side of the sheet of paper 5 centimeters from the upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the back to the waist line plus 19 - 20 cm (38 + 20 = 58 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 35, a). 
Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 Back length to the waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay measure the length of the back to the waist line (38 cm) plus 0.5 cm and put a point T (38 + 0,5 = 38.5 cm). 
Through the point T right spend a horizontal line. 

 Back width. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the width of the back (on a preliminary calculation) and put a point A (AA = 19.5 cm). 
Through the point A down, spend a vertical line. 

 The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 
From point A raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.2 cm, and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 10 + 1,2 = 3 cm.
Angle AAA divide in half, from point A line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.1 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 10 - 0,1 = 1.7 cm 
Point A, A, And connect a smooth concave line. 

 Shoulder cut. From the point A down on a vertical line lay 1.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 0.5 cm for the upper shoulders or 2.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. 
the Point P A and connect with a straight line. From the point A line AB postpone the measure the shoulder length plus 1.6 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 cm on the landing and put a point P. 
AP = 13,5 + 1,6 + 0,5 = 15,6 cm

 The construction of tuck from the shoulder cut , see Fig. 196. 

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat breast plus 9 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 9 = 21, refer 
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9.5 cm (48 : 4 + 9,5 = 21.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8.5 cm (48 : 4 + 8,5 = 20.5 cm). 
Through the point G to the left, spend a horizontal line to the intersection with line EN, the point of intersection represent G. From the point G to the right is carried out a horizontal line of arbitrary length. 

 The width of the openings. From the point G to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point G (13 : 2 = 6.5 cm). 
From the point G lowered perpendicular to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection of the perpendicular with the line of the waist and bottom line respectively designate T and N. 

 The upper section of the sleeve. A straight line UP continue to the right. From the point P on this line lay scoop sleeve length (58 cm) and put a point P. From the point P with a radius equal to the segment PP, conduct the arc. From the point P down in an arc lay 1/4 of the measurements of the length of the sleeve plus 4 cm and put a point P.
PP = 58 : 4 + 4 = 18,5 cm 
Point P connect a smooth line with a point P. 

 Cut the bottom of the sleeves. Through the point P carried out perpendicular to the line PP on which lay half the measurements of the circumference of the wrist plus 3cm, and put a point P (9 + 3 = 12 cm). 

 The waist line. From the point T the left on line TT lay 2.5 cm (for all sizes) and put a point T. Point T and G connect the dotted line. 

 Line podraza sleeves. From the point G to the right along a horizontal line lay 2 cm and put a point G. From the point G vispo dotted line lay 1/8 measurements of poluobhvat chest and put a point G.
GG = 48 : 8 = 6 see 
Point G G and connect with a straight line. 

 The lower section of the sleeve. Point G, P connect with a straight line. 

 The line of the elbow. From the point P down the line PP delay measurements length sleeves to the elbow plus 1 cm and put a point L (32 + 1 = 33 cm). 
From point L, drop the perpendicular to the line PP to the intersection with the line GP, the point of intersection with this line indicate L. From the point L left and right delay to 0.5 - 0.8 cm and dots L and L. From the point L up the line LL lay 6 - 7 cm and put a point L. Point L connect the straight lines with dots L and L.

 Construction drawing patterns shelves. On the right side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist line plus 19 - 20 cm (43 + 20 = 63 cm), and put the points In and N (Fig. 35, b). 
Through the points and H to the left, hold the horizontal line. 

 The depth of the armhole. From a point down the line BH lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 2cm and put a point G. 
VG = 48 : 2 + 2 = 26 cm 
For the hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 1 cm (48 : 2 + 1 = 25 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 3cm (48 : 2 + 3 = 27 cm). 
From the point G to the left is carried out a horizontal line of arbitrary length. 

 The width of the shelves. From a point to the left along a horizontal line lay the width of the front (20.5 cm on a preliminary calculation) and put a point A. From the point A lowered perpendicular to the line of the chest, the point of intersection with the line of the chest indicate G. 

 The width of the openings. From the point G left on a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point G (13 : 2 = 6.5 cm).
From the point G lowered perpendicular to the line of the bottom, the point of intersection with the bottom line indicate N. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From a point In the left line WE lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a dot B. 
W = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 
From a point down the vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point W. 
W = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm.
Points B and F connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half WV, point dividing the join the dotted line with point B. From point b on this line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point W. 
W = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see 
Point B, V, W connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G to the left on a horizontal line delay distance equal measure between the protruding points of the chest (9.5 cm), and put a point G. From the point G restore perpendicular to the intersection line A, the point of intersection represent V. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point V down the vertical line delay measurements height chest (27 cm) and put a point G. 

 Shoulder cut to tuck. From the point B down on a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point W. Point V and B connect by a straight line. 

 Shoulder cut to the line of openings. From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6 cm and put the point P. 
HP = 48 : 4 + 6 = 18 cm 
For the hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5.5 cm (48 : 4 + 5,5 = 17.5 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6.5 cm (48 : 4 + 6,5 = 18.5 cm). 
From the point P to the left hold horizontal line on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P. 
PP = 48 : 10 = 4,8 see 
the Point P and V connect the dotted line. From the point P right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of VB, minus 0.3 cm and put a point P. 
PP = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm 

 Line of upper tuck. Point H connect with point P a straight line. The continuation of this line from point G delay value of the segment BG, and put a point P. Tuck the top of the shoulder cut can be transferred to the tuck at the waist line. Translations of Darts, see "Modeling". 

 Shoulder cut top cut sleeves. Point P connect a straight line with a point P and continue this line to the left. From the point P on this line lay scoop sleeve length (58 cm) and put a point P. From the point P radius equal PP, conduct the arc. From the point P down in an arc lay 1/4 measurements length sleeves and put a point P.
PP = 58 : 4 = 14.5 cm. 
Point P connect a smooth line with a point P. 

 Cut the bottom of the sleeves. From the point P raise up perpendicular to the line PP. From the point P down the perpendicular lay half of the measurements of the circumference of your wrist plus 3 inches and put a point P (9 + 3 = 12 cm). 

 The waist line. From a point down the line BH postpone the measure length of the front to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put a point T (43 x 0.5 = 43.5 cm).
From the point G down on a vertical line lay a distance equal to the segment GT with a drawing of the back, and put a point T. Point T and T connect smooth.line. From the point T right at the waist lay 2.5 cm and put a point T. Point T connect the dotted line with a dot G. 

 Line podraza sleeves. From the point G left on a horizontal line lay 2 cm and put a point G. From the point G down along the dotted line lay 1/8 measurements of poluobhvat chest and put a point G. 
GG = 48 : 8 = 6 see 
Point G G and connect with a straight line. 

 The lower section of the sleeve. Point G P and connect with a straight line. From the point G line GP delay value of the segment GP (drawing back), minus the value of the solution tucks and put a point P. Point P P and connect with a straight line. 

 Line the bottom of the shelves. From the point C down the vertical line delay value of the segment TN (drawing back), and put a point N. Point N and N connect a smooth line. 

 Side cut backless. To calculate the width of the scarf at the hip line to measure the poluobhvat hips add 2cm for loose fit (for all sizes), from the obtained value is subtracted poluobhvat hips, obtained during the building of the drawing, shelves and back between the points N, N on the back and H N on the shelf. The result is distributed equally between the front and back (25,7 + 27,3 = 53 cm; 53 + 2 = 55 cm; 55 - 53 = 2 cm; 2 : 2 = 1 cm).
In the drawing of the backrest (see Fig. 35, a) from a point N right spend a horizontal line where you postpone 1 cm and put a point N. Point N and T connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half IN from the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points T and N. 

 Side cut shelves. Line N (see Fig. 35,b) continue to the left. From the point On this line postpone 1 cm and put a point N. Point N and T connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half NT from the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points T and N. 

 The construction of the Darts at the waist , see Fig. 53 in the first article of the section "Dresses". 

 Draw a pattern of diamond-shaped gussets. Spend two mutually perpendicular lines, point of intersection denoted by letter G (Fig. 35, in).
From the point G to the left and right delay value, equal to 1/2 of the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) minus 2 cm (for all sizes) and dot G and G. 
GG = GG = 13 : 2 - 2 = 4.5 cm 
From points G and H make tick marks on the vertical line up and down, with a radius equal to the distance GG (drawing back). The resulting points G and H connect the straight lines with dots G and G. 

 The layout pattern and cutting fabric. Pattern pieces are placed on the fabric so that the direction of the grain lines on the drawing coincide with the direction of the grain lines on the fabric. Cuts out parts, taking into account allowances for seams. The value of the allowances is shown in Fig. 36. 
The correct seam allowance, as well as from the right in the drawing of the cutting pattern depends on the appearance of the product. 

 Sewing. If the bottom of the sleeves sew the same fabric, you need to give allowance to the bottom of the sleeves 3 to 4 cm; if the bottom of the sleeve will be facing, the seam allowance must be equal to 1 cm.
For the best fit the upper section of the front halves of the sleeves are pulled (in the drawing of the pattern Fig. 35, b is the spot shown by hachures). It is necessary to calculate the details of the front face inside and pull the upper section of the sleeve with the iron, first on the upper layer of fabric, then on the bottom. The upper section of the sleeve on the back, if necessary, also you can pull, but only slightly, and only after fitting. 
Before you sweep away the blouse, you must undercut the sleeves on the shelf and the back to neaten, to slices it not showered.
Smatyvay all tuck. After that the back and front fold right sides inwards and smatyvay at the shoulder sections and sleeve sections. 
Chop off the front and the back of the line undercuts. From the end of the undercut shear and smatyvay the lower sections of the sleeves front and back. 
To the first fitting diamond gusset you can not ultimate. When fitting, care must be taken that the shoulder seam and the sleeve seam has been displaced forwards or backwards. After correcting all the flaws start to sewing blouses. Treatment tucks, see "Modeling". Sew shoulder seams and upper sleeve sections, the lower sections of the sleeves and the side sections. Seams rautureau and overcast.
The gusset stachivaya in the undercut after Stacey and resutured seams of sleeves and side seams. The gusset overcast. The edges of the gusset fold with the undercut shelves and backrests facing inward, pin the gusset pins and umatyvaet its frequent stitches in the corners and undercuts can be votati twice. Stachivaya the gusset from the side of the blouse so that the corners of the seam allowances were minimal in order to avoid wrinkles; for strength at the corners can be put under place a piece of cloth. Seam gussets are laid on both sides and rautureau.
To protect the fabric from fraying in the corners of the gusset is sewn again by manual stitches, thread, well-chosen color. Also, only very carefully, it is possible to stitch around the gusset and from the front side.