The drawing of the pattern of this costume (Fig. 138) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

 A preliminary calculation. Before the creation of the drawing pattern jacket with cap long sleeves and detachable barrels, to make a preliminary calculation. 

 The width of the costume on the chest equal measure of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm for loose fit (48 + 5 = 53 cm). 

 Back width equal measure width of back plus 1 cm (18 + 1 = 19 cm). 

 The width of the openings is 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 1 cm (48 : 4 + 1 = 13 cm). 

 The width of the front equal to the width of the costume on the chest minus the width of back and width of the armhole (53 - 19 - 13 = 21 see 

 Construction drawing patterns backless. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the yardstick length (65 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 139). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 19 cm (according to preliminary calculation) and put a point A1. 
Through the point A1 in a vertical line hold down. 

 The cut of the neck. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a point A3. 
AA3 = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm
For shapes with fatty deposits in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra the width of the neck increased by 0.5 cm Through the point A3 is carried out a vertical line on which lay up 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.2 cm, and put a point A4. 
А3А4= 18 : 10 + 1,2 = 3 cm 
Angle АА3А4 divide in half, from point A3 at the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.1 cm and put a point A5. 
А3А5 = 18 : 10 - 0,1 = 1.7 cm, 
the Points A4, A5 and connect A smooth concave line.

 Shoulder cut. From point A1 down in a vertical line lay 1.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 0.5 cm for the upper shoulder, 2.5 cm, for shoulders and put a point P1. Through the points A4 and P spend a straight line on which the point A4-lay measure the shoulder length plus 1.6 cm (tuck) plus 0.5 cm for planting, and put a point P1. 
А4П1 = 13,5 + 1,6 + 0,5 = 15,6 cm 

 Depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 9 = 21 see
Through the point G to the left, spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of an outline G1. From the point G to the right is carried out a horizontal line of arbitrary length. 
From the point G to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the measurements of the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point G2. 
ГГ2 = 13 : 2 = 6.5 cm 
From the point G2 is lowered perpendicular to the line of bottom. The point of intersection with the line of the bottom indicate H1. 

 The waist line. From point A down the line an lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put a point T (38 + 0,5 = 38.5 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line, the intersection of this line with the line Г2Н1 denote T1. 

 Line of the hips. From point T down on a vertical line lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line Г2Н1, the intersection point denoted B1. 

 The upper section of the sleeve. Line А4П continue to the right. From the point P1 on this line lay scoop sleeve length (58 cm) and put a point P2. From point P1 with a radius equal to the segment П1П2, conduct the arc. From the point A2 down in an arc lay 1/4 measurements length sleeves plus 5 cm and put a point P3 (58 : 4 + 5 = 19.5 cm). Points P1 and P3 connect with a straight line. 

 Cut the bottom of the sleeves. Through the point P3 is carried out perpendicular to the line П1П3, which lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat wrist plus 3cm, and put a point P4 (16 : 2 + 3 = 11 cm). 

 Line podraza sleeves. From the point G to the right along a horizontal line lay 2 cm and put a point G3. From the point G2 down the line Г2Т1 lay 1/8 measurements of poluobhvat chest and put the point G4 (48 : 8 = 6 cm). Points G3 and G4 connect with a straight line. 

 The lower section of the sleeve. The point G4 and P4 connect a straight line. 

 The line of the elbow. From the point P1 at the line П1П3 delay measurements length sleeves to the elbow plus 2cm and put a point L (32 + 2 = 34 cm). From point L upon the earth perpendicular to the line П1П3 to the intersection with the line Г4П4, the point of intersection denoted L1. 

 Line tuck. From the point L1 to the right and to the left of the line Г4П4 put off by 0.7 cm and dots L2 and L3. From the point L1 up the line lay 6 cm and put the point L4. Point L4 connect the straight lines with points L2 and L3. 

 The side cut to the waist line. Line А1Г continue down to the hem, the point of intersection with the lines of the waist, hips and bottom indicate T2, B2 and H2. Points T2 and T3 connect by a straight line. 

 The creation of the drawing pattern of the front. On the right side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the jacket, plus 5 cm (65 + 5 = 70 cm) and put the points In and N (Fig. 140, a). Through the points and H to the left, hold the horizontal line. 

 The depth of the armhole. From a point down the line BH lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 2cm and put a point G.
VG = 48 : 2 + 2 = 26 cm 
For the hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 1 cm (48 : 2 + 1 = 25 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 3cm (48 : 2 + 3 = 27 cm). 
Through the point G to the left, spend a horizontal line.

 The width of the front. From a point to the left along a horizontal line lay the width of the front - 21cm (according to preliminary calculation) and put a point A2. Through the point A2 is carried out a vertical line to the intersection with the line of the chest, the point of intersection denoted G1. 

 The width of the openings. From the point G1 to the left on a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point G2 (13 : 2 = 6.5 cm). From the point G2 is lowered perpendicular to the line of the bottom, the point of intersection with the line of the bottom indicate H1. 

 The waist line. From a point down the line BH postpone the measure length of the front to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put a point T (43 x 0.5 = 43.5 cm). From the point G2 down on a vertical line delay period equal to Г2Т1 (drawing back), and put the point T1. Points T and T1 connect by a straight line. 

 Line of the hips. From points T and T1 lay down 1/2 the measurements of the length of the back to the waist line and put point B and B1. Points B and B1 connect by a straight line. 

 Line the bottom of the jacket. From point B1 down in a vertical line delay period equal to Б1Н1 (drawing back), and put a point of H2. Points H2 and H connect with a straight line.

 The cut of the neck. From a point In the left on line BA2 lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put the point B1. 
BB1 = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 
From a point down the line BH lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point B2. 
BB2 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm 
Points B1 and B2 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half В1В2, point dividing the join the dotted line with point B. From point b along the dotted line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point B3. 
ВВ3 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see 
B1, B3 and B2 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G to the left on the line ГГ2 lay the measure of the distance between the protruding points of the chest (9.5 cm) and put a point G3. Through the point G3 spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line at BA2, the point of intersection represent V4. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point B4 down in a vertical line delaying the measure height of the breast (27 cm) and put a point G4. 

 Shoulder cut to tuck. From the point B4 down in a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point B5. Points B5 and B1 connect by a straight line. From the point G1 up lines Г1А2 lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6 cm and put the point P.
Г1П = 48 : 4 + 6 = 18 cm 
For the hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5.5 cm (48 : 4 + 5,5 = 17.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6.5 cm (48 : 4 + 6,5 = 18.5 cm). 
Through the point P to the left carried out a horizontal line on which the point P lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest and put a point P1 (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). Points P1 and B5 connect the dotted line. From the point P1 to the right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of В1В5, minus 0.3 cm and put a point P2. 
П1П2 = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm 
 
 Line tuck. The point G4 and A2 connect in a straight line. From the point G4 on this line lay the cut is equal to the right side of the tuck В5Г4, and put a point P3. Tuck from the shoulder cut shelves can be translated into a line of relief. Translation of tuck, see "Modeling". 

 The shoulder cut and the upper cut sleeve. Connect the point P3 by a straight line with point P1 and continue this line to the left from the point P1 on the value of measurements sleeve length (58 cm) and put a point P4. From point P1 with a radius equal to the segment П1П4, conduct the arc. From point P4, in an arc down lay 1/4 measurements length sleeves and put a point P5 (58 : 4 = 14.5 cm). Point P5 a smooth line connecting point P1. 

 Cut the bottom of the sleeves. From point P5 restore perpendicular to the line П5П1, which lay 1/2 of the measurements of the girth of your wrist plus 3 inches and put a point P6 (16 : 2 + 3 = 11 cm). 

 Line podraza sleeves. From the point G1 to the left on a horizontal line lay 2 cm and put a point G5. From the point G2 down the line Г2Т1 lay 1/8 measurements of poluobhvat chest and put the point G6. Point G5 and G6 connect with a straight line. 

 The lower section of the sleeve. Point P6 G6 and connect with a straight line. From the point G6 on the line Г6П6 lay a distance equal to the segment Г4П4 (drawing back), minus the value of the solution tucks, and put a point A7. Points P7 and P5 connect the smooth concave line. 

 Side cut. Line А2Г1 continue down to the hem, the point of intersection with the lines of the waist, hips and bottom indicate T2, B2 and N3. Point G5 and T2 connect by a straight line. 

 Construction drawing patterns and cutting barrel. Spend two mutually perpendicular lines, point of intersection denoted by letter G (Fig. 140, b). From the point G to the left and right on a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the measurements of the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) minus 2 cm and put points G1 and G2 (13 : 2 - 2 = 4.5 cm). From the point G1 to make a vertical line at the top notch of radius equal to the distance Г3Г4 (drawing back). The resulting point connect straight lines with points G1 and G2.
Through the points G1 and G2 is carried out a vertical line equal to the segment Г2Н1 (drawing back), and put the points H and H1. From the point G1 down the line lay a distance equal to the segment Г2Т1 (drawing back), and a distance equal to the segment Т1Б1 (drawing back), and put the points T and B. Through the points T and B hold right horizontal line to the intersection with the line Г2Н1 and dots T1 and B1. From points T and T1 on the inside of the drawing postpone 1 cm and put points T2 and T3. Points T2 and T3 connect the straight lines with the points G1 and G2. From the points B and B1 to the left and right postpone 1 cm and put the points B2 and B3.Points B2 and B3 connect the dotted lines with points T2 and T3. The dotted lines divide in half, from the points raise perpendiculars to these lines, where delay of 0.4 cm, and connect the points obtained smooth lines with points T3, T2 and B3, B2. From points B2 and B3 is lowered perpendicular to the line of the bottom cutting the barrel and put the points N2 and N3.

 Making a lateral cut. To measure the poluobhvat hips add 2cm for loose fit and subtract the amount of poluobhvat hips, obtained during the building of the drawing pattern of the back, shelves and cutting the barrel. The result is distributed equally between the front and back (53 + 2 = 55 cm; 55 - 19 - 21 - 11 = 4 cm; 4 : 2 = 2 cm). 

 Side cut backless (see Fig. 139). From the point B2 to the right on a horizontal line 2 cm aside and put the point B3. The points B3 and T2 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half Т2Б3 from the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.4 cm, and connect the obtained point of the smooth line with points T2 and B3. Through the point B3 is carried down the vertical line to the bottom line, the point of intersection denoted H3. 

 Side cut shelves (see Fig. 140, a). From the point B2 to the left of the line Б2Б1 lay 2 cm and put a point B3. The points B3 and T2 connect the dotted line, the dotted line is divided in half, the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.4 cm, and connect the obtained point of the smooth line with points T2 and B3. Through the point B3 is carried out a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line and put a point H4. 

 Line side. From points B2 and N to the right lay 2 - 2,5 cm and put the points O and O1. Point O and O1 connect with a straight line and continue up to 0.5 cm Upper end of the line connecting a smooth line with the point B2. The point O1 is a straight line with the point N. 

 The layout pattern and cutting fabric. Pattern pieces are placed so that the direction of grain lines on the drawing coincide with the direction of the grain lines on the fabric. They outline the pattern with chalk. Cuts out parts, taking into account allowances for seams. The value of allowances is shown in Fig. 141. 

 Sewing. The upper section of the sleeve is treated in the same way as the long blouse with cap sleeves and diamond-shaped gusset. The seam in the corners of the shelves and backless netscout and frequent overcast overlock stitches. 
On the shoulder cut of the back and lower cut sleeves lay tuck.. then the front and the back fold right sides inwards and smatyvay shoulder sections and sleeve sections. 
Chop the slices along the lines Г5Г6 and Г3Г4 (see Fig. 139 and 140) pins. From the points G4 and G6 (see the drawing backrest and shelves) smatyvay the lower sections of the sleeves along the lines of the seam.
Pin and primetyvajut cutting flank, starting from the highest point, and then applied to the upper side corners of G1 and G2 to the corners of podreza and frequent stitches primetyvajut their blouses, not zahvatila seam lower edge of sleeves. 
Then split off and smatyvay the side sections of the shelves and back with side sections detachable barrel. In the corners there should not be folds.
Doing a fitting, the fitting must be sure that the shoulder seam and middle seam of the sleeve has not been moved forward or backward. If necessary, release the seam allowance in the back or front (depending on where you moved the seam). 
After correcting all deficiencies start sewing the jacket. Sew Darts in, disperse and rautureau them. Sew shoulder seams, the upper and lower sections of the sleeves, the seams rautureau and overcast.
Cutting the flank begin to participate from the highest point. The lower cut of sleeves lifted and pritachivajut one side of the barrel the outline from the jacket, at the corner foot of the machine is lifted, leaving the needle in the fabric and the jacket is fitted so that it is convenient to stitch the side sections. The other side of the cutting barrel begin to participate from its lower edge. Scribble the outline from the jacket around the foot of the machine is lifted, leaving the needle in the material, and turn the product so that it is convenient to stitch the upper seam of the sleeve. The end of the string is fixed.
In the corners on the seam take less fabric to avoid wrinkles. For strength at the corners can be put under place a piece of cloth. Disperse the seam on both sides and rautureau, then rautureau the bottom seam of the sleeve. 
From the wrong side of the line parts to protect the fabric from fraying you can flash again manual stitches of thread out of fabric articles, or other threads, well-chosen color. Also, only very carefully, you can flash from the front side.