The drawing patterns of these pants (Fig. 121 the figure to the left) must be removed following measurements (in cm):
Poluobhvat waist |
38 |
Length pants to the knee |
59 |
Poluobhvat hips |
53 |
Seat height |
28 |
The length of the pants on the side |
98 |
The width of the pants at the bottom |
18 |
The creation of the drawing pattern of the front halves of trousers. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure pants length (98 cm), and put the points T and N (Fig. 122,a). Through the points T and N hold right horizontal line.
Line step. From T point down the line TN postpone the measure the height of the seat and put a point of sh (TSH = 28 cm). Through point W to the right is carried out in a horizontal line.
The knee line. From T point down the line TN postpone the measure pants length to knee (59 cm) and put a point K. from the point K to the right spend a horizontal line.
Line of the hips. Point W up the line TN measurements lay 1/3 of the height of the seat and put B (28 : 3 = 9.4 cm). Through point B to the right spend a horizontal line.
The width of the pants on the line of the step. From the point W to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat hips, plus 5 cm and put a point SH1.
ШШ1 = 53 : 2 + 5 = 31,5 cm
fold Line. Line ШШ1 divided in half, the point of division denote R2 (31,5 : 2 = 15.75 cm). Through the point ø2 spend a vertical line. The point of intersection with the lines of the waist, thigh, knee and bottom indicate, respectively, T1, B1, K1, H1.
Line front the cut. From a point SH1 to the left on a horizontal line delay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 0.3 cm and set point SH3.
Ш1Ш3 = 53 : 10 + 0,3 = 5.6 cm.
Through the point SH3 spend a vertical line upwards. Point of intersection of the vertical line of the waist and hips represent the T2 and B2. From the point of SH3 up the line Ш3Т2 postpone 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 0.3 cm and put a point Ш4. Point Ш4 and SH1 connects with a dotted line, the dotted line is divided into three equal parts, from the bottom of the dividing point to the left upon the earth perpendicular to the line Ш4Ш1, which lay 0.4 cm Obtained point connect a smooth line with points B2 and SH1.
From the point T2 to the left of the line Т2Т postpone 1 cm and put a point T3. From the point T3 is lowered down the perpendicular, which postpone 1 cm and put a point T4. Point T4 connect the straight line with the point B2.
The waist line. From the point T3 on the line to the left lay Т2Т 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat waist plus 2cm and put a point T5.
Т3Т5 = 38 : 2 + 2 = 21 see
Point T5 and T4 connect the dotted line.
Line tuck. From the line Т1Н1 on the dotted line to the left and right delay to 1.5 cm and put the points T6 and T7. From point T1 down the line Т1Н1 lay 12 - 14 cm and connect the resulting point smooth lines with points T6 and T7.
The bottom line is. From the point H1 to the left and to the right lay 1/2 of the measurements of the width of the bottom of the pants minus 1cm and put the points N2 and N3.
Н1Н2 = Н1Н3 = 18 : 2 - 1 = 8 cm
From point N1 up the line delay of 0.5 cm the resulting point connect straight lines with points of N2 and N3.
Side cut. Point T5, connect a smooth line with point B. Point W connect the dotted line with the point H2. From the intersection of the dashed line and the right KK1 postpone 1 cm and put a point K2. Point K2 connect a smooth line with points III and H2.
The width of the trousers through the knee. Measure the distance between points K1 and K2 from the K1 point to the right of the line lay at the same distance and put a point K3.
Step cut. Point K3, connect a smooth line with points SH1 and N3.
Draw a pattern of the rear halves of the pants. On the right side of the sheet of paper 6 inches from the top of the slice, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure pants length (98 cm), and put the points T and N (Fig. 122, b). Through the points T and N the left spend a horizontal line.
Line step. From T point down the line T delay measurements seat height (28 cm) and put a point W. point W to the left, spend a horizontal line.
The knee line. From T point down the line TN postpone the measure pants length to knee (59 cm) and put a point K. from the point K to the left, spend a horizontal line.
The hips. Point W up the line TN measurements lay 1/3 of the height of the seat and put B (28 : 3 = 9.4 cm). Through point B to the left carried out a horizontal line of arbitrary length.
The width of the line step. From the point W to the left along a horizontal line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat hips, plus 5 cm and put a point SH1.
ШШ1 = 53 : 2 + 5 = 31,5 cm
fold Line. Line ШШ1 divided in half, the point of division denote R2 (31,5 : 2 = 15.75 cm). Through the point ø2 spend a vertical line. The point of intersection of this line with the lines of the waist, thigh, knee and bottom indicate, respectively, T1, B1, K1, H1.
Auxiliary line to the rear of the slice. From a point SH1 to the right lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 0.3 cm and set point SH3.
Ш1Ш3 = 53 : 10 + 0,3 = 5.6 cm.
Through the point SH3 spend a vertical line upwards. The point of intersection of this line with the lines of the hips and waist represent T2 and B2. Line ТТ1 divided into three equal parts. Right point of division denoted T3, is carried out through it, up the vertical line on which lay up 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips minus 1.5 cm,and put a point T4.
Т3Т4 = 53 : 10 in 1.5 = 3.8 cm
Point T4 connect the dotted line with a dot SH3. The intersection of the dotted line with the line of the hips indicate B3. Angle Т2Ш3Ш1 divide in half, from the point of SH3 on the line dividing the angle of lay 1/20 measurements of poluobhvat hips minus 0.8 cm and put a point Ш4.
Ш3Ш4 = 53 : 20 - 0,8 = 1.8 cm
Extension line of the step. From a point SH1 to the left on a horizontal line delay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 2cm and put a point Ш5.
Ш1Ш5 = 53 : 10 + 2 = 7,3 cm
waist. Line Т2Т continue to the right in dotted lines. From point T4 on the line, make a notch at a distance equal measure of poluobhvat waist plus 4 cm, and put a point T5.
Т4Т5 = 38 : 2 + 4 = 23 see
Point T5 and T4 connect the dotted line.
Line tuck. Cut Т4Т5 divided in half, the dividing point down upon the earth perpendicular to the line Т4Т5, which lay 12 - 14 cm, put a dot 14. From the dividing point to the left and to the right along the dotted line lay, 1,5 cm and connect the points obtained smooth lines with a dot 14.
Width at the hip line. Line Б3Б continue to the right. From the point B3 on this line lay a bushel of poluobhvat hips plus 2cm for loose fit and minus the width of the front halves of the pants on the hip line between points ББ2 and put a point B4.
Б3Б4 = 53 + 2 - 25,9 = 29,1 see
the bottom Line. From the point H1 to the left and right delay along the segment, is equal to 1/2 of the measurements of the width of the bottom of the pants plus 1 cm, and put the points N2 and N3.
Н1Н2 = Н1Н3 = 18 : 2 + 1 = 10 cm
Side cut. Point T5, connect a smooth line with a point B4. Point B4 connect the dotted line with the point H2. From the point of intersection of the dotted line and the knee to the left along a horizontal line postpone 1 cm and put a point K2. From the point B4 hold a smooth line through the points K2 and H2.
The width of the trousers through the knee. From the point K1 to the left lay a distance equal to the segment К1К2, and put a point K3.
Stepper cut. Point K3, connect a smooth line from the point N3 and the dotted line with a dot Ш5. From the point K3 up on the dotted line lay a distance equal to К3Ш1 on the front half of the pants minus 1 cm, and put a point Ш6.
Note. If the fabric is not subject to the sling, then lay a distance equal to К3Ш1 without the deduction of one centimeter.
The dotted line between the points K3 and Ш6 divide in half; from the points of division upon the earth perpendicular to the dotted lines, on which lay 0.4 cm Obtained point connect a smooth line with points Ш6 and K3.
The line of the rear cut. Line the back of the slice is performed through the point T4, B3, Ш4, Ш6 a smooth line.
The layout pattern and cutting. At raskroe it is necessary to put the details of the pants so that the lobe filament of the fabric took place on the fold line of the front and rear halves of the pants. Seams to add waist 1 cm, along the side and stepping seams, and 1 - 1.5 cm, hem - 3 - 4 see
Sewing. In order that the trousers sat well, the details of the pants need to smachivaniya to process iron. In Fig. 122 the wavy line indicates the place where it is necessary to pull the details of the pants, and dashed lines - the points where you sucurity pants.
Ironing pants is recommended using a damp protohellenic, at first lightly hold it with a iron to the tissue moistened, then iron to dry the fabric. Sutivana recommended to produce a softer tissue than the one on which iron usually; pulled the pants, on the contrary, more dense fabric.
After the wet-heat treatment of parts of pants beginning to cetywayo. First smatyvay side and step sections, then the front and rear sections (slices of a bow and dampers), all the Darts. On the left hand side seam leave not swept up to the waist line of 15 - 18 cm Doing the fitting. If the pants sit well, start stitching the slices. Grind off the side and stepping cuts, rautureau stitches; then sew the sections of the bow, dampers and Darts, the seams are also rautureau. Stachivaya zipper handle top podkralas sew a facing or waistband. Pants iron.
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