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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Long pants flared slim fit through the knee

The drawing patterns of these pants (Fig. 125) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat waist  38 Length pants to the knee  59
Poluobhvat hips  53 The circumference of the knee  36
The length of the pants on the side  100 Seat height  28


 The creation of the drawing pattern of the front halves of trousers. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the pants (100 cm), and put the points T and N (Fig. 126, a). Through the points T and N hold right horizontal line. 

 Line step. From T point down the line T delay measurements seat height (28 cm) and put a point W. point W to the right is carried out in a horizontal line. 

 The knee line. From T point down the line TN postpone the measure pants length to knee (59 cm) and put a point K. from the point K to the right spend a horizontal line. 

 The hips. Point W up the vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of the seat height and put B (28 : 3 = 9.4 cm). Through the obtained point to the right spend a horizontal line. 

 The width of the line step. From the point W to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat hips, plus 5 cm and put a point SH1. 
ШШ1 = 53 : 2 + 5 = 31,5 cm 

 fold Line. Line ШШ1 divided in half, the point of division denote R2 (31,5 : 2 = 15.75 cm). Through the point ø2 spend a vertical line. The point of intersection with the lines of the waist, thigh, knee and bottom indicate, respectively, T1, B1, K1, H1. 

 Line front the cut. From a point SH1 to the left on a horizontal line delay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 0.3 cm and set point SH3. 
Ш1Ш3 = 53 : 10 + 0,3 = 5.6 cm.
Through the point SH3 is carried up the vertical line. Point of intersection of the vertical line of the waist and hips represent the T2 and B2. From the point of SH3 up the line Ш3Т2 postpone 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 0.3 cm and put a point Ш4. Point Ш4 and SH1 connects with a dotted line to divide a dotted line between the points Ш4 and SH1 into three equal parts. From the right of the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.4 cm Obtained point connect a smooth line with points B2 and SH1.
From the point T2 to the left of the line Т2Т postpone 1 cm and put a point T3. From the point T3 is lowered down the perpendicular, on which lay 1 cm, and put a point T4. Point T4 connect a straight line with a point of BZ. 

 The waist line. From the point T3 to the left of the line Т2Т lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat waist plus 3 inches and put a point T5. 
Т3Т5 = 38 : 2 + 3 = 22 see 
Points T5 and T4 connect the dotted line. 

 Line tuck. From the point T1 to the left and to the right along the dotted line lay at 1.5 cm and put the points T6 and T7. From point T1 down the line Т1Ш2 lay 12 - 14 cm and connect the resulting point smooth lines with points T6 and T7. 

 The width of the trousers through the knee. From the point K1 to the left and right on a horizontal line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat knee length plus 1.5 cm and put the points K2 and K3. 
К1К2 = К1К3 = 18: 2+ 1,5 = 10,5 cm 
Through the points K2 and K3 is carried down a vertical dotted line. The point of intersection of these lines with underline denote N2 and N3. 

 The extension of the pants hem. From the points N2 and N3 to the left and right delay of 0.5 - 2 cm and put points N4 and N5. 

 The bottom line is. From point N1 up delay 0.5 cm and connect the resulting point of straight lines with points H4 and H5. 

 The side cut. Point T5, B, W, K2, and H4 connect a smooth line. 

 Step cut. Point SH1, K3, N5, connect a smooth line. 

 Draw a pattern of the rear halves of the pants. On the right side of the sheet of paper 6 inches from the top of the slice, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the pants (100 cm) and put the points T and N (Fig. 126, b). Through the points T and N the left spend a horizontal line. 

 Line step. From T point down the line T delay measurements seat height (28 cm) and put a point W. point W to the left, spend a horizontal line. 

 The knee line. From point T down on a vertical line lay scoop knee-length (59 cm) and put a point K. from the point K to the left, spend a horizontal line. 

 The hips. Point W up the vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of the seat height and put B (28 : 3 = 9.4 cm). Through point B to the left, spend a horizontal line. 

 The width of the line step. From the point W to the left along a horizontal line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat hips, plus 5 cm and put a point SH1. 
ШШ1 = 53 : 2 + 5 = 31,5 cm 

 fold Line. Line ШШ1 divided in half, the breaking point denoted R2. Through the point ø2 spend a vertical line. The point of intersection with the lines of the waist, thigh, knee and bottom indicate, respectively, T1, B1, K1 and N1. 

 Auxiliary lines medium slice. From a point SH1 to the right lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 0.3 cm and set point SH3. 
Ш1Ш3 = 53 : 10 + 0,3 = 5.6 cm. 
From the point of SH3 raise up perpendicular to the line ШШ1. The point of intersection with the lines of the waist and hips represent the T2 and B2. Line Т2Т1 divided into three equal parts, the right breaking point denoted T3. Through the point T3 is carried up the vertical line on which the point T3 delay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips minus 1.5 cm, and put a point T4. 
Т3Т4 = 53 : 10 in 1.5 = 3.8 cm
Points T4 and SH3 connect the dotted line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of the hips indicate B3. Angle Т2Ш3Ш1 divide in half, from the point of SH3 on the line dividing the angle of lay 1/20 measurements of poluobhvat hips minus 0.8 cm and put a point Ш4. 
Ш3Ш4 = 53 : 20 - 0,8 = 1.8 cm 

 Extension line of the step. From a point SH1 to the left on a horizontal line delay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 2cm and put a point Ш5. 
Ш1Ш5 = 53 : 10 + 2 = 7,3 cm 

 waist. Line Т2Т continue to the right dotted line. From point T4 on the dotted line, make a notch at a distance equal measure of poluobhvat waist, plus 3 cm, and put a point T5. 
Т4Т5 = 38 : 2 + 3 = 22 see 
Points T5 and T4 connect the dotted line. 

 Line tuck. Cut Т4Т5 divided in half, through the point of division at right angles to the line Т4Т5 hold the line, which lay 12 - 14 cm, put a dot 12. From the dividing point to the left and to the right along the dotted line lay at 1.5 cm, I put points T6 and T7 and connect them with smooth lines with point 12. 

 Width at the hip line. Line Б3Б continue to the right. From the point B3 on this line lay a bushel of poluobhvat hips plus 2cm for loose fit and minus the width of the front halves of the pants on the hip line between points ББ2 and put a point B4. 
Б3Б4 = 53 + 2 - 25,9 = 29,1 cm 

 Width of trousers through the knee. From the point K1 to the left and to the right lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat knee length plus 3 cm and put the points K2 and K3. 
К1К2 = К1К3 = 18 : 2 + 3 = 12 see 
Through the points K2 and K3 is carried out by the vertical dashed line to the hem of the pants. The point of intersection of these lines with underline denote N2 and N3. 

 The extension of the pants hem. From the points N2 and N3 to the right and to the left lay 0.5 - 2 cm and put points N4 and N5. 

 The side cut. Point T5, B4, C2 and H5 connect a smooth line. 

 Step cut. Point K3 and Ш5 connect the dotted line. From the point K3 up on the dotted line delay segment equal to the segment К3Ш1 (with a drawing of the front halves of trousers) minus 1 cm, and put a point Ш6. The dotted line between the points K3 and Ш6 divide in half, from the dividing point to the right raise up perpendicular to the line К3Ш6, which lay 0.6 cm and put a point L. the Point Ш6, L, K3, H4 connect a smooth line. 

 An average slice. Point T4, B3, Ш4, SH1 and Ш6 connect a smooth line. 

 The bottom line is. From the point H1 down on a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point h6. Point h6 connect the straight lines with points N5 and N4.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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