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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

One-piece bathing suit with sew-in cups


The drawing of the pattern piece bathing suit (Fig. 5) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat chest  48 Front length to the waist line  43
Poluobhvat under the breast  40 Breast height  27
Poluobhvat waist  38 Seat height  28
Poluobhvat hips  53    


 The creation of the drawing pattern. On the right side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line with vertex at the point d (Fig. 6). Through the point G to the left is carried out a horizontal line, on which lay a bushel of poluobhvat hips plus 1cm, and put a point G which hold down the vertical.
GG = 53 + 1 = 54 cm

 waist Line. From the point G down the vertical line delay period equal to the measure of the length of the front to the waist line measurement minus the height of your chest, plus 4 cm, and put the point T.
GT = 43 - 27 + 4 = 20 cm.
Through the point T to the left spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection of this line with a vertical line going from point G indicate T.

 Line the bottom of the swimsuit. From point T down on a vertical line delay measurements, seat height plus 10 cm and put the H-point.
T = 28 + 10= 38 cm
Through the point N to the left spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the extension of the line GT. The point of intersection represent N.

 Line of the hips. From T point down the line TN postpone the measure, seat height minus 9 cm, and put a point B.
TB = 28 - 9 = 19 cm
Through point B to the left, spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line GUN. The point of intersection represent B.

 Line sides. From the point G to the left on the line GG lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat hips and put a point G (53 : 2 = 26.5 cm). From the point G lowered perpendicular to the line of bottom. The point of intersection of the perpendicular with the lines of the waist, hips and bottom respectively designate T, B and N.

 The length of the swimsuit line Boca. From the point B down vertical lay lines 5 cm and put a point B. Through the point to the left B spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line GUN. The point of intersection represent B.

 A medium cut backless. From the point T right at the waist lay 2 cm and put a point T. Point T connect a straight line with a point G and convex from B.
From the point N right postpone 1 cm and put a point 1. Point B and 1 connect a smooth line.

 Stepper slices. From point 1 to the right along a horizontal line lay 5 cm and put a point N. From the point N to the left on a horizontal line lay 5 cm and put a point N.

 The bottom cuts. Point N and B connect the straight dotted line. Cut NB divide in half, from the points of division upon the earth perpendicular to the line NB, which lay 0.5 cm, and put a point O. the Point O connect a smooth line with points N and B.

 Line tuck. From a point On the left and right of the line NOR delay to 0 8 cm and dots A and O. Point O raise a perpendicular, on which lay 3 to 4 cm, and put a point O. Point O connect the straight lines with dots A and O.
Point B and N connect direct the dotted line, divide the segment BD into three equal parts from the points raise perpendiculars. From the right point of dividing up the perpendicular lay 5 cm from the left point of division 4, see plotting points connect smooth curved line with points B and N.

 The calculation of the solution tucks at the waist. The swimsuit should have a tight fitting shape at the waist, it is necessary to make tucks. The value of the solution tucks equal measure of poluobhvat hips plus 1cm minus the measure of poluobhvat waist (53 + 1 - 38 = 16 cm).
The value of the solution tucks are distributed as follows. To tuck on the back - 3 cm, medium cut backless - 2 cm, front tuck - 4 see the Value of the solution. the side tuck is determined by subtracting from the total solution is the sum of solutions of all other Darts (16 - 3 - 2 - 4 = 7 cm).

 The side sections. From the point C left and right,lay half of the solution side tuck and dot T and T. Point T and T connect straight dotted lines with the point B. Segments TB and TB divide in half, from the points raise perpendiculars, on which side of the line Boca put off by 0.5 cm Then the resulting points connect smooth lines with dots T, B and T.

 Line Darts on the back. The distance between the points T and T divided in half, the point of division denote T. Through the point T spend a vertical line. The point of intersection of the vertical line indicate GG G with the line B - point B. From the point B up vertically, lay 3 inches and put a dot 3. From the point C left and right at the waist lay on the half of the depth of the back Darts (1.5 cm). The resulting points are linked by straight lines with the point G and point 3.

 Line vrachevanie cups. From the point G to the left on the line GG lay 1.5 cm and put a point G. From the point G left on a horizontal line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 3.0 cm and put a point G.
GG = 48 : 4 + 3,0 = 15,0 cm
Cut GG divided in half, the point of division denote G. Through the point G spend a vertical line down on which (from the point G) lay 1/8 measurements of poluobhvat chest, plus 1.5 cm, and put a point G.
GG = 48 : 8 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm.
Point G, G, G connect a smooth concave line. Through the point H left and right spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection of this line with line GN denote G with the line GUN - G, line the middle seam of the back GT - G.

 The calculation of the width of the swimsuit under the bust. The swimsuit should have a tight fitting shape below the bust. It is necessary to measure the distance from the point to the point G G and subtract the value of the solution tucks on the back.
GG = 52,2 - 1,2 = 51 cm.
From the obtained value is subtracted depending poluobhvat under the breast and divide this result in half between the front and rear halves of the swimsuit (51 - 40 = 11 cm; 11 : 2 = 5.5 cm). From the point H left and right lay at 5.5 cm and dots G and G. Through G and G spend a vertical line upwards. The point of intersection with the line GG indicate G and G.

 The upper section. From the point G down the line GT lay 5 - 6 cm and put a point G. Cut GG divided in half. The point of division denote G. Point G and H connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half GG, from the points of division drop the perpendicular, on which lay 2 cm of the Obtained point connect a smooth line with points G and G.
Cut GG divided in half, the point of division denote H and connect it by a straight line with point G. From the points G and G lay down 1 cm and connect the resulting points with a straight line.
Point G and H combine smooth lines with dots T and T.

 The waist line. From T point down the line GN postpone 1 cm and put a point T. Point T and T connect a smooth line.

 Line front tuck. The distance between the points T and T divided in half, the point of division denote T. From the point C left and right lay in the half depth front tuck (4 : 2 = 2 cm) and dots T and T. Through the point T spend a vertical line. Point of its intersection with a line GG indicate G with the line B - B. From the point G down lay 1 cm From the point B up vertically, lay 5 cm Point T and T connect straight lines from point 5 and convex lines with point 1.
Building cups for swimwear similar to the construction of the cups of the brassiere (see Fig. 4, b, C).

 The layout pattern and cutting fabric. Pattern pieces laid on fabric, aligning the direction of the grain lines in the drawing direction of the grain lines on the fabric. Cutting produce without a seam (if the fabric is stretchy) and with a seam allowance of 0.5 cm, if the fabric is cotton. The leotard is made of thin fabric cut out entirely on the lining. The leotard is made of dense elastic tissue lining cut out just the Cup. For cups, in addition to lining, cut out and a strip of thick fabric or a thin layer of foam.
The clasp can be located in the middle back or left side seam. To handle clasps give an allowance of 2 cm Straps cut out width 4 - 5 cm In finished form, their width must be 1.5 - 2 cm For processing (edging) bottom cut slanting strips of cloth width of 2.5 - 3.5 cm processing (edging) the upper sections of the cut out swimsuit Podkayne bar width 3 4 cm For processing cups cut slanting strips with a width of 2 - 3 cm,

 Sewing. Sew side and Central sections of the swimsuit, not zastraivaya allowance for the zipper, sew the lower sections of leotard. Around the lower sections of the oblique strip of cloth.
The cups in the swimsuit and stachivaya treated in the same way as in the bra (see previous article).
The top section of the swimsuit around oblique stripe fabric. In line stachivaya zipper braid zipper or handle the closure as described for swimming trunks.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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