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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

One-piece bathing suits

BUILDING the BASICS of DRAWING PATTERN 

in the drawing pattern one-piece bathing suit (swimsuit) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat neck  18 Back width.  18
Poluobhvat chest  48 Shoulder length  13,5
Poluobhvat waist  38 The center of the chest  9,5
Poluobhvat hips  53 Seat height  28
Back length to the waist line  38 Breast height  27
Front length to the waist line  43    


 Length bathing suit. On the left side of a sheet of paper 5 centimeters from the upper edge spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the back to the waist line plus the merc seat height, plus 11 cm, and put points A and B (Fig. 10). An = 38 + 28 + 11 = 77 see Through points A and hold right horizontal line.

 Width bathing suit. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 0.5 cm and put a point In (48 x 0.5 = 48.5 cm). From the point In down perpendicular to the bottom line, the point of intersection with the bottom line indicate N.

 Back length at the waist. From point A down the line an lay measure the length of the back to the waist line and put the point T. point T right spend a horizontal line, the point of intersection with the line VN indicate T. 

 Line of the hips. From T point down the line an lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line VN, the point of intersection represent B. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right of the line AB lay the measure of the width of the back (18 cm) and put a point A. 

 The width of the openings. From the point A right on a horizontal line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest and put a point A. Through A and A spend a vertical line down. 

 The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 
From point A raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.8 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 10 + 0,8 = 2,6 cm 
O Points and connect a smooth line.

 The shoulder cut of the back. From the point A down on a vertical line lay 3 cm and put a point P. the Point P A and connect with a straight line on which the points lay A measure the shoulder length, and put a point P. 

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 8 = 20 cm 
Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line, the intersection point of this line indicate an H, with a vertical line drawn through the point A - G and the point of intersection with the line VN indicate G. 

 Cut the armhole of the backrest. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2cm and put a point P. 
GP = GP : 3 + 2 = 20 : 3 + 2 = 8,7 see 
Angle AGH divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of the width of the armhole plus 1.3 cm and put a point P. 
HP = 12 : 10 + 1,3 = 2,5 cm 
Line GG divide in half and put a point G. Point P, P, P and G connect a smooth concave line. 

 Cut the armhole of the front. From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6cm and put a point P. 
HP = 48 : 4 + 6 = 18 cm
Through the point to the left P spend a horizontal line, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put 
a point P.
PP = 48 : 10 = 4,8 cm 
From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG and put a point P. 
GP = GP : 3 = 18 : 3 = 6 see 
Point P and P connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half PP from the dividing point to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 cm, getting the point 1. Angle GGP divide in half, from point G line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 0.6 cm and put a point P. 
HP =12 : 10 + 0,6 = 1,8 cm
Point P, 1, P, P, G connect a smooth concave line. 

 Slice the neck of the front. From the point G up delay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 2cm and put a dot B. 
GV = 48 : 2 + 2 = 26 cm
From the point P up the vertical lines of the delay value of the segment HV and put a point W. Points B and F connect with a straight line. 
From the point B to the left along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a point W. 
WW = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 
From point B downwards in a vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2cm and put a point W.
WW = 18 : 3 + 2 = 8 see 
Dots and connect W V smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G the left on line GG lay the measure of center of the chest (9.5 cm) and put a point G. From the point G restore perpendicular to the intersection line VV, the point of intersection represent V. 

 The height of the chest. From the point V down the vertical line delay measurements height chest (27 cm) and put a point G. 

 Shoulder cut line tuck. From the point V down vertically postpone 1 cm and put a point W. Point V W and connect with a straight line. Point V connect the dotted line with a dot P. From the point P right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of VB, minus 0.3 cm and put a point W. 
PV = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm 
Point G W and connect with a straight line, the continuation of which point G delay period equal to VG, and put a point W. Point V P and connect with a straight line. 

 Side cut. From the point G lowered perpendicular to the intersection line BB. The point of intersection with the lines of his waist and hips refer T and B. 

 The value of the solution tucks at the waist. The value of the solution tucks at the waist line equal to the measure of poluobhvat chest measurement minus the poluobhvat waist, plus 0.5 cm (48 - 38 + 0,5 = 10.5 cm). The value of the solution tucks into the side sections equal to 0.3 of the total solution tucks (10.5 x 0.3 = 3.2 cm). The value of the solution front tuck is 0.25 of the total solution tucks (10,5 x 0.25 = 2.6 cm). The value of the solution tucks in medium cut backless equal to 2 cm.The value of the solution tucks on the back equal to the amount of solutions tucks minus the value of the solution tucks to the side, minus the value of the solution front tuck and the value of the solution tucks in medium cut backless: 10,5 - 3,2 - 2,6 - 2 = 2,7 see

 A medium cut backless. From the point N to the right on a horizontal line lay 1 see Get the point 1'. From the point T to the right of the line TT lay 2 cm (the value of the solution tucks in the cut backs), get the point 2. Points A and 2 connect a straight line, the points 2, B and 1' connect a smooth line.

 The expansion of the swimsuit at the hips. Free fit to the standards of poluobhvat hips add 0.5 cm. From the resulting sum deduct the distance obtained when creating drawings between points B and B (53 + 0,5 - 48,5 = 5 cm). The resulting value is distributed equally between the front and back (5 : 2 = 2.5 cm). From the point B left and right lay at 2.5 cm and dots B and B. 

 Lines of the side sections. From the point C left and right delay to 1/2 the depth of the lateral tuck and dot T and T. Point T and T connect straight lines from point G and the dotted lines with points and B B. Segments TB and BT divide in half, from the points of division in the direction of line sides raise perpendiculars, on which lay 1 see plotting points connect smooth lines with dots T, B, T, B. Point B and B lowered down the perpendicular length of 5 cm and dots B and B. 

 Stepper slices. From point 1' to the right of the line N lay 4 - 5 cm and put a point N. From the point N to the left lay the same distance and put a point N. 

 The bottom cuts. Point N and B connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half NB from the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 - 1 cm, and put a point O. the Point N, Oh, B connect a smooth line. 

 Line tuck. From point O up perpendicular lay 3 cm, getting the point O. From a point On the left and right of the line NB delay of 0.8 cm and connect them with straight lines from point O.
Point N and B connect the dotted line, divide the segment BD into three equal parts. From. the right of the dividing point upward raise a perpendicular, on which lay 5 cm from the left of the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 4 see plotting points connect with each other and with points B, N a smooth line. 

 The waist line of the front. From point B down the line VN lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist line (43 cm) and put a point T. Point T and T connect a smooth line. 

 The hips of the front. From the point B down through the middle of the front lay an amount equal to TT segment and put a point B. Point B and B connect a smooth line. 

 Line front tuck. Through the point G spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line BB. The point of intersection with the waist line represent T, hips - B. From the point C left and right lay in the half depth front tuck and dot T and T. From the point G down on a vertical line lay 5 cm from the point B up on a vertical line lay 5 see Point T and T connect smooth curved lines with the upper and lower points. 

 The line of the rear tuck. The distance between points 2 and T divided in half, the point of division denote T. From the point C left and right at the waist line delaying half of the solution back tuck and dot T and T. Through the point T spend a vertical line, the intersection of this line with the line GG indicate G with the line B - B. From the point G down on a vertical line and from a point B lay up to 3 cm, the resulting points are linked by straight lines with points T and T. 

BATHING SUIT WITH DRAPES ALONG THE CHEST LINE

 Drawing lines style. The drawing of the pattern a bathing suit (Fig. 11 the figure to the left) take the pattern bases one-piece bathing suit and it is applied to the line style. Top tuck was transferred to the Breasts. This H connect with point G a straight line (see Fig. 10). The pattern on this line is cut and spread on the value of the solution tucks. Tuck top glued up or shear off the pins. After the tuck is closed, causing all other lines of the style. 

 Before (Fig. 12). From the lowest point of the neck down through the middle of the front lays 10 - 12 cm and put a point A. From the highest point of the neck left shoulder cut lay 7 cm and put a point A. Points A and A connect a smooth concave line. From the point A left shoulder lay cut 4 cm from the line of openings on the side cut lay down 3 cm, respectively receive the points 3 and 4. Points 3 and 4 connect smooth concave line. The line of the side cut continue downward by 3 cm, obtained From point 3' to the right spend a horizontal line. 

 Back (see Fig. 12). From the highest point of the neck right at the shoulder cut lay 7 cm, get the point 7. From the chest line down the middle of the back lay 2 - 8 cm and put a point A. Point A and 7 connect a smooth concave line. From the point 7 to the right at the shoulder lay cut 4 cm from the line of openings on the side cut lay down 3 cm, respectively, getting points 4 and 3. Points 3 and 4 connect smooth concave line. The line of the side cut continue downward by 3 cm, the resulting point 3 connect a smooth line with the line of the cut. 

 The layout pattern and cutting fabric. When the width of the fabric is 140 cm in this bathing suit have the same length bathing suit plus 20 - 30 cm, width 90 cm need two lengths bathing suit. 
The fabric is folded across the width and a bend to the right. The pattern on the fabric stack as shown in Fig. 13. To the part of the front from waist line to bottom line podtraivaet lined with either thin fabric. 

 Sewing. Smatyvay a medium cut back to zip lines, contrary to umatyvaet zipper braid zipper. The cut-out part of the front of the swimsuit is applied to the lining on the edge of spawn and scribbled. Smatyvay the side sections of the swimsuit with lining. Smatyvay tuck on the back. On the shelf tuck smatyvay together with lining. Smatyvay shoulder seams, lay the drape on the chest and do a fitting. After eliminating all the flaws start sewing. Grind off all the sour cream part, cuts in overcast along the seams.
Pokrainini obrazkami process all the slices. Piping face put on the front of the swimsuit, primetyvajut and pritachivajut on 0.5 cm from the slices. The basting is removed, the suture is cut, piping bent towards the inside, on the edge of spawn and prostrachivajut 0.4 cm from the fold. Slices of obcutek bends and sew hidden stitches to suit. Stachivaya the braid and the zipper. Drape on the chest fix. 



SWIMSUIT TWO TISSUE


 lines style. The drawing of the pattern a bathing suit (see Fig. 11, the figure in the center) take the pattern bases one-piece swimsuit and it is applied to the line style. Top tuck transferred to the line side of the slice to the line of the side cut from the armhole to the waist line divide in half, point dividing the join a straight line with a point G (see Fig. 10). The pattern along this line and cut apart. Top tuck or glued joint shear bulavochka. After the tuck is closed, causing all other lines of the style. 

 Back (Fig. 14, a). From the highest point of the neck right at the shoulder cut lay 4 - 5 cm and put the point A. From the breast line down the middle of the back lay 5 - 6 cm and put a point A. Points A and A connect a smooth concave line. From point A to the right at the shoulder cut of the line of openings on the side cut down lay 4 Received, see point 4 connect smooth concave line. From the waist line in the middle of the back and side cut lay down for 5 - 8 cm and connect the dots with a straight line. 

 Before (Fig. 14, b). From the lowest point of the neck down the midline of the front lay 12 - 14 cm and put a point A. From the highest point of the neck left shoulder cut lay 4 - 5 cm and put a point A. Points A and A connect a smooth concave line. From the point A left shoulder cut from the line of openings on the side cut down lay 4 Received, see point 4 connect smooth concave line. From the waist line in the middle of the front and side cut lay down for 5 - 8 cm and connect the dots with a straight line, get the line of the cut front detail. 

 The layout pattern and cutting fabric. When the width of the fabric 120 cm in this bathing suit needs 50 cm of fabric for the top part of the swimsuit and 35 - 40 cm for the lower part of the swimsuit. When the width of the fabric 90 cm to 1 m of fabric for the top and 70 cm to the bottom of the swimsuit. The fabric is folded across the width and a bend to the right. The pattern on the fabric stack as shown in Fig. 15. 

 Sewing. Smatyvay and grind off the top and bottom of the swimsuit, stitch zametyvayut in the direction of the bottom and the front side prostrachivajut 1 - 2 mm from the seam stitching. Smatyvay a medium cut back to zip lines, contrary to umatyvaet zipper braid zipper. Smatyvay shoulder, side stepping and cuts of swimsuit. Doing the fitting, after the elimination of all faults start sewing. Sew the Darts and then all the sour cream part. Pokrainini obrazkami process all the slices. While the front side of the piping is applied on the front side of the swimsuit, primetyvajut and pritachivajut on 0.5 cm from the slices.The basting is removed, the suture is cut, piping bent towards the inside, on the edge of spawn and prostrachivajut 0.4 cm from the fold. The edges of obcutek sew hidden stitches to suit. Stachivaya the braid and the zipper. Along the lines of the Darts sew the belt loops and prodelyvat zone. Through the front you can do lacing.


BATHING SUIT WITH CUTOUTS ON the SIDES 

 Drawing lines style. The drawing of the pattern of this bathing suit (see Fig. 11, the figure on the right) take the pattern bases one-piece swimsuit and it is applied to the line style. Top tuck transferred to the line of openings, this P with drawing basics (see Fig. 10) is connected to the upper end of the tuck. The pattern along this line and cut apart. Tuck top glued up or shear off the pins. After the tuck is closed, causing all other lines of the style. 

 Back (Fig. 16, a). From the highest point of the neck right at the shoulder cut lay 4 - 5 cm and put the point A. connect point a smooth concave line with the point of intersection of the chest line to the middle line of the back. From point A to the right at the shoulder lay cut 4 cm From the armhole down to the side cut lay 3 Received, see point 3 and 4 connect smooth concave line. From the waist line on the side slice up, down, left aside for 6 - 8 cm and connect the resulting points of a smooth concave line. 

 Before (Fig. 16, b). From the lowest point of the neck down the midline of the front lays 10 - 12 cm and put a point A. From the highest point of the neck left shoulder cut lay 4 - 5 cm and put a point A. Points A and A connect a smooth concave line. From the point A left shoulder lay cut 4 cm From the line of openings on the side cut down lay 3 Received, see points 3 and 4 connect a smooth line. From the waist line on the side cut up down and to the right lay for 6 - 8 cm, plotting points connect smooth concave line. 

 The layout pattern and cutting fabric. When the width of the fabric 120 cm in this bathing suit you 85 - 90 cm of fabric. With a width of 90 cm 1 m 60 cm of fabric. The layout pattern shown in the width of the fabric 90 cm (Fig. 17). The fabric is folded across the width and a bend to the right. The middle line of the front combined with the fold of the fabric. 

 Sewing. Smatyvay a medium cut back to zip lines. In incision to closure umatyvaet the braid and the zipper. Smatyvay tuck, shoulder and stepper sections of the swimsuit. Doing the fitting, after the elimination of all faults start sewing. Sew the Darts and then all the sour cream part. Pokrainini obrazkami of a fabric finishing process all slices. Face piping is applied to the underside of the swimsuit, primetyvajut and pritachivajut on 0.5 cm from the slices. The basting is removed, the suture is cut, the facing folded to the front side, on the edge of spawn, forming the edging of the details of the piping towards the inside of 1 - 2 mm.The edge of the piping bends towards the inside, and scribbled primetyvajut 1 mm from the edge.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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