JACKET
the drawing of the pattern sweatshirts women's sleepwear (Fig. 25) must be removed following measurements (in cm):
Poluobhvat neck |
18 |
Back width. |
18 |
Poluobhvat chest |
48 |
Shoulder length |
13,5 |
Poluobhvat hips |
53 |
The center of the chest |
9,5 |
Back length to the waist line |
38 |
Girth hands |
29 |
Front length to the waist line |
43 |
Sleeve length |
50 |
Breast height |
27 |
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Draw the pattern of the back and shelves. On the left side of a sheet of paper, 7 cm from upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the back to the waist line plus 18 - 22 cm, and put points A and N (38 + 18 = 56 cm). Through points A and N right spend a horizontal line (Fig. 26, a).
Width jackets. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 6 - 7cm and put a point B.
AB = 48 + 6 = 54 cm
From point To lowered down the perpendicular on the bottom line, point of intersection represent N.
The waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 1 cm and put a point T (38 + 1 = 39 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line VN, the point of intersection represent T.
The width of the backrest. From point A to the right of the line AB lay the measure of the width of the back plus 1.5 cm and put a point A.
A = 18 a 1.5 = 19.5 cm
Width of the openings. From the point A right on a horizontal line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 1 cm and put a point A.
AA = 48 : 4 + 1 = 13 see
point A and A omit normals of arbitrary length.
The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.8 cm and put a point A.
AA = 18 : 3 + 0,8 = 6,8 cm
From point A raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.8 cm, and put a point E.
AA = 18 : 10 + 0,8 = 2,6 cm
Angle AAA divide in half, from point A line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.3 cm and put a point A.
AA = 18 : 10 - 0,3 = 1.5 cm
Point A, A, And connect a smooth concave line.
The shoulder cut of the back. From the point A down on a vertical line lay 2.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 1.5 cm - for high shoulders or 3.5 cm, for shoulders and put a point P. the Point P A and connect with a straight line, on which lay the measure the shoulder length plus 1.6 - 2 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 cm on landing, and put a point P.
AP = 13,5 + 2 + 0,5 = 16 cm
Construction Darts from the shoulder cut of the back, see Fig. 196.
The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm and put a point G
PG = 48 : 4 + 8 = 20 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8.5 cm (48 : 4 + 8,5 = 20.5 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm (48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm).
Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of an outline G, with a line width of openings - G and line VN - G.
Cut the armhole of the back. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 3 cm and put a point P.
GP = GP : 3 + 3 = 20 : 3 + 3 = 9,6 see
Angle PGG divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.7 cm and put a point P.
HP = 13 : 10 + 1,7 = 3, see
Line GG divided in half, the point of division denote G.
Point P, P, P, G connect a smooth line.
The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6cm and put a point P.
HP = 48 : 4 + 6 = 18 cm
From the point to the left P spend a horizontal line, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P.
PP = 48 : 10 = 4,8 cm
From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the line GP plus 1 cm and put a point P.
GP = GP : 3 + 1 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7 see
Point P and P connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half PP of the points raised up to the right perpendicular to the line PP, which lay 1 cm, getting the point 1.
The angle with vertex at the point G divide in half, from point G line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1 cm and put a point P.
GP = 13 : 10 + 1 = 2.3 cm,
Point P, 1, P, P, G connect a smooth concave line.
The cut of the neckline shelves. From the point P up the line GV lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest, plus a 2.5 cm and put a dot B.
GV = 48 : 2 + 2,5 = 26,5 cm
For the hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest, plus 1.5 cm (48 : 2 + 1,5 = 25,5 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 3.5 cm (48 : 2 a + 3.5 = 27.5 cm).
From the point P up the line GA delay value of the segment HV, and put a point W. Points B and F connect with a straight line.
From the point B to the left of the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.8 cm and put a point W.
WW = 18 : 3 + 0,8 = 6,8 cm
From point B down the vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.5 cm and put a point W.
WW = 18 : 3 + 2,5 = 8,5 see
the Point W and W connect the dotted line, cut VV divided in half. The point dividing the join the dotted line from point B. From point B on this line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.3 cm and put a point W.
WW = 18 : 3 + 1,3 = 7,3 see
the Point W, V, W connect a smooth concave line.
The center of the chest. From the point G left on a horizontal line lay the measure of center of the chest and put the point G. From the point G raise up perpendicular to the line VV, the point of intersection with this line indicate W.
The protruding point of the breast. From the point V down the vertical line delay measurements height chest (27 cm) and put a point G.
Shoulder cut line tuck. From the point B down on a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point W. Point V W and connect with a straight line.
Point V and P connect the dotted line. From the point P right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length, minus the value of cut VV, minus 0.3 cm and put a point W.
PV = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm
Point G W and connect with a straight line, the continuation of which point G delay value of the segment BG, and put a point W. Point V P and connect with a straight line.
The auxiliary line side cut. From the point G to the right of the line GG lay 1/3 of the width of the openings, and put a point G (13 : 3 = 4.3 cm).
From the point G lowered perpendicular to the line of the bottom, the point of intersection with the waist line and bottom line respectively designate T and N.
Side cut. To calculate the width of the scarf at the hip line to measure the poluobhvat hips add 3 cm to free fit, from the obtained value subtracted the width of the fleece obtained in the creation of the drawing between the points N and N (53 + 3 - 54 = 2 cm). The resulting value is distributed evenly between the front and back (2 : 2 = 1 cm). From the point N left and right postpone 1 cm and put points N and N. Point N and N connect straight lines from point G. The intersection of these lines with the waist line represent letters T and T.
The length of the shelves to the waist line. From point B down the line VN lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist plus 1 cm and put a point T (43 + 1 = 44 cm). Point T and T connect a smooth line.
Line the bottom of the shelves. A vertical line VN continue down from point N down the line delay value of the segment TT plus 0.5 cm and put a point N. Point N and N connect a smooth line.
Line Board. From points V and N right conduct horizontal lines on which lay 2.5 - 3 cm, and connect them with a straight line.
Construction drawing dress patterns sleeve (Fig. 26, b). On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of sleeve (56 cm), and put points A and N. Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line.
Sleeve width. From point A to the right along a horizontal line delaying measure girth hands plus 9 cm and put a point In (29 + 9 = 38 cm). From point To lowered perpendicular to the line of the bottom, the point of intersection represent N.
The height of the crown. From point A down the line an lay 3/4 of the depth of the armhole and put the point O.
AO = 20 4 x 3 = 15 cm.
Through the point On the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line VN, the point of intersection represent A.
Line OE divided into six equal parts, the points of division denote O, O, O, O, O. Through each point of division conduct a vertical line to the intersection with the line AB. The intersection points represent A, A, A, A, A.
From the point A up the line OA lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 1 cm and put a point A (15 : 3 - 1 = 4 cm).
From the point A down the line AO lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 1.8 cm and put a point A (15 : 3 - 1,8 = 3.2 cm).
From the point A down the line AO lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 1.3 cm and put a point A (15 : 3 is 1.3 = 3.7 cm).
From the point A up the line OA lay 1/6 of the height of the top part of the sleeves and put a point A (15 : 6 = 2.5 cm).
Line OE divided into three equal parts, the right point of division denote A.
Line of lifts the shoulders. Point On, A, A, A, A, A, A, A connect a smooth line.
The middle line of the sleeve. Line AO continue downward, the point of intersection with the bottom line indicate N.
Line the bottom of the sleeves. The distance between the points N, N divided in half. Of the dividing point is lowered down the perpendicular to the line N and set aside 1 cm Cut ND also divided in half, the dividing point raise a perpendicular to this segment and lay it 1 see plotting points connect smooth lines with points N, N and N.
PANTS
For the drawing pattern of trousers must be removed following measurements (cm):
Poluobhvat waist |
38 |
Length pants to the knee |
59 |
Poluobhvat hips |
53 |
Seat height |
28 |
The length of the pants on the side |
98 |
The width of the pants at the bottom of the model |
18 |
The creation of the drawing pattern of the front halves of trousers. On the left side of the paper spend a vertical straight line, on which lay the measure pants length (98 cm), and put the points T and N. Through the points T and N to the right conduct of a horizontal line of arbitrary length (Fig. 27, a).
Line step. From point T down on a vertical line delay measurements seat height + 1,5 cm and put a point W (28 + 1,5 = 29,5 cm). Through point W to the right is carried out a horizontal line of arbitrary length.
A line knee length. From point T down on a vertical line lay scoop knee-length plus 1.5 cm and put a point K. from the point K to the right is carried out a horizontal line of arbitrary length.
Line of the hips. Point W up the line TN lay 1/3 of the measurements of the seat height plus 1 cm and put B.
SB = 28 : 3 + 1 = 10.3 cm
Through point B to the right is carried out a horizontal line of arbitrary length.
The width of the pants on the line of the step. From the point W to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat hips plus 6 inches and put a point S.
S = 53 : 2 + 6 = 32,5 cm
fold Line. Line S divided in half, the point of division denote S.
S = 32,5 : 2 = 16,25 cm
Through the point S spend a vertical line. The point of intersection with the line of the waist, thigh, knee and bottom respectively designate T, B, C, N.
Line front the cut. From the point S left on a horizontal line delay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 0.5 cm and put a point S.
S = 53 : 10 + 0,5 = 5,8 cm
Through the point S spend a vertical line upwards. The point of intersection with the line of the waist and hips respectively designate T and B. From the point X up the vertical line delay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 0.5 cm and put a point S.
SS = 53 : 10 + 0,5 = 5,8 cm
Point S and S connect the dotted line, divide the distance between them into three equal parts, from the bottom of the dividing point down upon the earth perpendicular to the line SS and lay on it is 0.3 cm. the Obtained point linking a smooth concave line with points B and C. From the point T the left on line postpone 1 cm and put a point T. Point T B and connect with a straight line.
The waist line. From the point T to the right on a horizontal line postpone 1 cm and put a point T.
The bottom line. From the point N left and right lay 1/2 of the measurements of the width of the bottom of the pants minus 0.5 cm and dots N and N (18 : 2 - 0,5 = 8,5 cm). From the point N up the line delay of 0.5 cm the resulting point connect the straight lines with dots N and N.
The side cut. Point T connect a smooth line with point B. Point W connect a straight line with a point N, the point of intersection with the line CC indicate C.
The width of the trousers through the knee. Measure the distance between points C and K, from the point C right on a horizontal line lay the same distance and put a point C.
Stepper cut. Point C N and connect with a straight line. Point C and S connect a smooth line.
Draw a pattern of the rear halves of the pants. On the right side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure pants length (98 cm), and put the points T and N (Fig. 27, b). Through the points T and N the left carried out a horizontal line of arbitrary length.
Line step. From T point down the line TN postpone the merc seat height + 1,5 cm and put a point W (28 + 1,5 = 29,5 cm). Through point W to the left carried out a horizontal line of arbitrary length.
A line knee length. From point T down on a vertical line lay scoop knee-length plus 1.5 cm and put the point To (59 + 1,5 = 60.5 cm). Point left To spend a horizontal line of arbitrary length.
Line of the hips. Point W up the line TN lay 1/3 of the measurements of the seat height plus 1 cm and put B (28 : 3 + 1 = 10.3 cm). Through point B to the left carried out a horizontal line of arbitrary length.
The width of the line step. From the point W to the left along a horizontal line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat hips plus 6 inches and put a point S.
S = 53 : 2 + 6 = 32,5 cm
fold Line. Line S divided in half, the point of division denote S (32,5 : 2 = 16,25 cm). Through the point S spend a vertical line. The point of intersection of the vertical line and the waist, thigh, knee and bottom respectively designate T, B, C, N.
Auxiliary line rear cut. From the point S right on a horizontal line delay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 0.5 cm and put a point S (53 : 10 + 0,5 = 5,8 cm). Through the point S spend a vertical line. The point of intersection with the line of the waist and hips respectively designate T and B. The distance between the points T and T divided into three equal parts, the right point of division denote T. From the point T raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips minus 0.5 cm, and put a point D (53 : 10 - 0,5 = 4,8 cm). Point T and S connect the dotted line.The intersection of the dotted line with the line of the hips indicate B. Angle SSB divide in half, from point S line dividing the angle of lay 1/20 measurements of poluobhvat hips and put a point S (53 : 20 = 2.7 cm).
Extension steps cut. From the point S left on a horizontal line delay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 3 inches and put a point S (53 : 10 + 3 = 8,3 cm).
The waist line. Line TT continue to the right in dotted lines. From the point C on the dotted line, make the notch a distance equal to 1/2 measure of poluobhvat waist plus 6 cm, and put a point T (38 : 2 + 6 = 25 cm).
Width at the hip line. Line BB continue to the right. From the point B right on a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat hips plus 3 cm for loose fit and minus the width of the front halves of the pants on the hip line and put a point B.
BB = 53 + 3 - 26,7 = 29,3 see
the bottom Line. From the point N left and right lay 1/2 of the measurements of the width of the bottom of the pants plus 0.5 cm and put points N and N (18 : 2 + 0,5 = 9,5 cm). From the point N down on the continuation of the line IN delay of 0.5 cm the resulting point connect the straight lines with dots N and N.
Side cut. Point T connect a smooth line with a point B. Point B connect a straight line with a point N. The point of intersection with the line CC indicate C.
The width of the trousers through the knee. From the point K left on a horizontal line delay value of the segment CC, and put a point C.
Step cut. Point K connect a straight line with a point N and the dashed line with the point of Nil. From the point C up
the dotted line lay a distance equal to CS, drawing the front half of the pants and put a point S. The distance between the points C and S divide in half, from the points of division at right angles to the dotted line, hold the line where delay of 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points S and K.
Line the back of the slice. Line the back of the slice is carried out through T, B, S and S a smooth line.
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