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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Pantsuit for tourists with pants below the knees of the "groom"


The drawing of the pattern of this costume (Fig. 149) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat neck  18 The center of the chest  9,5
Poluobhvat chest  48 Girth hands  29
Poluobhvat waist  38 The circumference of the wrist  18
Poluobhvat hips  53 Sleeve length to elbow  32
Back length to the waist line  38 Sleeve length to wrist  58
Front length to the waist line  43 The length of the pants on the side  65
Back width.  18 Length pants to the knee  59
Shoulder length  13,5 Seat height  28
Jacket length  65 Calf circumference  18


JACKET 

 Construction drawing patterns of the back and shelves. On the left side of the sheet of paper back down 6 cm from the upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the jacket (65 cm) and place points A and N (Fig. 150, a). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 The width of the jacket. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm and put the point B.
AB = 48 + 7 = 55 cm 
Through the point In spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection denoted H1. 

 The waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 1 cm and put a point T (38 + 1 = 39 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line, the point of intersection with the line ВН1 denote T1. 

 Line of the hips. From point T down on a vertical line lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line (38 : 2 = 19 cm) and put a point B. point B right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line ВН1, the point of intersection with this line denote B1. 

 Back width. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the measure of the width of the back plus 2.0 cm and put a point A1. 
AA1 = 18 + 2 = 20 cm.

 The width of the openings. From the point A1 to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 1.3 cm and put a point A2. 
A1A2 = 48 : 4 + 1,3 = 13,3 cm 
Through the points A1 and A2 hold down vertical lines of arbitrary length. 

 The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point A3. 
AA3 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see 
From point A3 raise a perpendicular, on which lay from point A3 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.8 cm and put a point A4. 
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 0,8 = 2,6 cm
Angle АА3А4 divide in half, from point А3по line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.3 cm and put a point A4. 
А3А4 = 18 : 10 - 0,3 = 1,5, see 
Points A4, A5 And connect a smooth concave line. 

 The shoulder cut of the back. From point A1 down lay vertical lines 2.5 cm (for normal shoulder length), 1.5 cm (high shoulder), 3.5 cm (sloping shoulders) and put a point P. the Point A4 and the P connect a straight line, on which lay the measure the shoulder length plus 1.6 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 cm on landing, plus 0.7 cm down the shoulder and put a point P1.
А4П1 = 13,5 + 1,6 + 0,5 + 0,7 = 16,3 see 

the construction of the Darts from the shoulder cut of the back, see Fig. 196 in the section "Simulation"

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 9 = 21, refer 
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9.5 cm (48 : 4 + 9,5 = 21.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8.5 cm (48 : 4 + 8,5 = 20.5 cm).
Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection with the line an denote G1, with a line width of openings - G2 and line ВН1 - G3. 

 Cut the armhole of the back. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2cm and put a point P2. 
ГП2 = GP : 3 + 2 = 21 : 3 + 2 = 9 see 
Angle ПГГ2 divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of the width of the armhole plus 1.5 cm and put a point P3. 
ГП3 = 13,3 : 10 + 1,5 = 2.8 cm 
Line ГГ2 divided in half, the breaking point denoted G4. 
Points P1, P2, P3, G4, connect a smooth line. 

 Cut the armhole of the front. From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm and put a point P4. 
Г2П4 = 48 : 4 + 7 = 19 cm 
From the point P4 to the left hold horizontal line on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 0.7 cm down the shoulder and put the point P5. 
П4П5 = 48 : 10 + 0,7 = 5.5 cm. 
From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the line Г2П4 and put a point P6. 
Г2П6 = Г2П4 : 3 = 19 : 3 = 6,3 cm
Points P5 and P6 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half П5П6 from the dividing point to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 cm, and put a point 1. 
Angle П4Г2Г halve, from a point G2 on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm and put a point A7. 
Г2П7 = 13,3 : 10 + 0,8 = 2,1 see 
the Point P5, 1, P6, P7, G4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From the point G3 up lines H1B lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 3.5 cm and put the point B1. 
Г3В1 = 48 : 2 + 3,5 = 27,5 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest, plus a 2.5 cm (48 : 2 + 2,5 = 26.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat breast plus 4.5 cm (48 : 2 + 4,5 = 28.5 cm). 
From the point of G2 up lines Г2А2 delay value of the segment Г3В1 and put a point B2. Points B1 and B2 connect by a straight line. 
From the point B1 to the left of the line В1В2 lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point B3. 
В1В3 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see 
point B1 down in a vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.5 cm and put a point Q4. 
В1В4 = 18 : 3 + 2,5 = 8,5 see
Points B3 and B4 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half В3В4, point dividing the join the dotted line with the point B1. From point B1 on the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.2 cm and put a point B5. 
В1В5 = 18 : 3 + 1,2 = 7,2, see 
Point B3, B5, B4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G3 to the left in horizontal lines lay the measure of center of the chest plus 1 cm and put a point G5 (with 9.5 + 1 = 10.5 cm). From point G5 restore perpendicular to the line Г2Г3 to the intersection with the line В1В2, the point of intersection with this line indicate B6. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point B6 down in a vertical line delaying the measure height of the breast (27 cm) and put a point G6. 

 Shoulder cut line tuck. From the point B6 down postpone 1 cm and put a point V7. Points B7 and B3 connect by a straight line. Points B7 and P5 connect the dotted line. From the point P5 to the right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of В3В7, minus 0.3 cm, plus 0.7 cm and put a point B8. 
П5В8 = 13,5 - 3,5 - 0,3 + 0,7 = 10,4 see
Point G6 and B8 connect with a straight line, the continuation of which from point lay G6 value cut В7Г6 and put a point B9. Points B9 and A5 connect with a straight line. 

 The auxiliary line side cut. From the point of G4 is lowered perpendicular to the line of the bottom, the point of intersection with the line of the waist, hips and bottom indicate T2, B2, H2. 

 Side cut. To calculate the width of the scarf at the hip line to measure the poluobhvat hips add 3 cm for loose fit. From the obtained value subtracted the width of the jacket, obtained during the building of the drawing between the points BB1~ (53 + 3 - 55 = 1 cm). The result is distributed equally between the front and back (1 : 2 = 0.5 cm). From the point B2 to the left and right delay of 0.5 cm and put the points B3 and B4.
From the point T2 to the left and right lay for 2 cm and put points T3 and T4. Points T3 and T4 connect the straight lines with the point G4 and the dotted lines with points B3 and B4. The dotted line between these points is divided in half, from the points raise perpendiculars to the side lines of the flanks, which lay at 0.5 cm plotting points connect smooth lines with points T3, B4 and T4, B3. From points B3 and B4 is lowered down the perpendicular to the line of the bottom, the point of intersection denote H3 and H4. 

 Line Darts on the back. The distance between the points G and G1 are divided in half, the point of division represent the G8. Point G8 spend a vertical line down to the intersection with the line of the hips, the points of intersection with the line of the waist and hips represent T5 and B5. From point T5 to the left and right delay to 1.5 cm, and connect the resulting points by straight lines with the point of the G8 and smooth lines with point B3. 

 The length of the shelves to the waist line. From point B1 down the line В1Н1 lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist line plus 1.0 cm (43 + 1 = 44 cm) and put a point T6. Point. T6 and T4 connect with a straight line. 

 The hips shelves. From point B1 down in a vertical line delay value of the segment Т1Т6 and put a point B6. Point B6 and B3 connect by a straight line. 

 Line the bottom of the shelves. Line В1Н1 continue down. From the point H1 along this line lay the value of the cut Т1Т6 and put a point h6. Point h6 connect a smooth line from the point N3. 

 Line cutting barrel. Line В7Г6 continue to bottom line, the point of intersection with the line of the waist, hips and bottom indicate T7, B7 and H7. Point P6 connect a straight line with a point G6. From the point G6 down along the vertical line lay 5 cm From the point B7 up in a vertical line lay 5 cm dot 5 and 5'. From the point T7 to the left and right waist lay by 1.5 cm the resulting points are linked by straight lines to points 5 and 5'. 
Tuck the top of the shoulder cut close and translate it in the flank cutting (from the cut edge of the armhole). 

 Line side. From points B4 and N6 of right conduct horizontal lines on which lay 2 cm, and connect the resulting points with a straight line. 

 Construction drawing of the pattern sleeve. On the left side spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the sleeve minus 2 cm (58 - 2 = 56 cm) and place points A and N (Fig. 150, b). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 Sleeve width. From point A to the right along a horizontal line delaying measure girth hands plus 9 cm and put a point In (29 + 9 = 38 cm). Through the point In hold down vertical line, the intersection point of this line and the bottom indicate H1. 

 The height of the top part of the sleeve. From point A down the line an lay 3/4 of the depth of the armhole of the backrest (PG cut) and put a point O. 
AO = 21 4 x 3 = 15,6 cm 
Through the point On the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line ВН1, the intersection point of the outline O1. 

 Line elbow. From point A down the line an lay scoop length sleeves to the elbow plus 2cm and put a point L (32 + 2 = 34 cm). Through the point L to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line ВН1, the point of intersection denoted L1. 

 Line of lifts the shoulders. The line OO1 is divided into six equal parts. The points of division denoted O2, O3, O4, O5 and O6. Through each point of division conduct a vertical line to the intersection with the line AB. The point of intersection with the line AB denoted A1, A2, A3, A4, A5. From the point O2 up lines О2А1 lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 1 cm and put a point A6 (15,6 : 3 - 1 = 4.2 cm). From the point A2 down the line А2О3 lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 2 cm and put a point A7 (А2А7 = 15,6 : 3 - 2 = 3.2 cm). From the point A4 down the line А4О5 lay 1/3 of the height of the top part.minus 1.8 cm and put a point A8 (15,6 : 3 - 1,8 = 3.4 cm).From the point A6 up lines О6А5 lay 1/6 of the height of the top part of the sleeves and put a point A9 (15,6 : 6 = 2.6 cm). Point O, A6, A7, A3, A8, A9, O1 connect a smooth line.

 The middle line of the sleeve. Line А3О4 continue downward, the point of intersection of this line with the line of the elbow and bottom denote the L2 and H2. From the point D2 to the right on a horizontal line lay 2 cm and put a point H3. Points H3 and L2 connect with a straight line. 

 Line front cutoff sleeves. From the point H3 to the right lay the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the model (12 cm) and put a point H4. Points H4 and O1 connect the dotted line. From the point of intersection of the dotted line and the elbow to the left through the elbow postpone 1 cm and put a point L3. Point O1, L3 and H4 connect a smooth line. 

 The line of the rear cut sleeves with elbow Darts. From the point H3 to the left upon the earth perpendicular to the line Л2Н3. From the point H2 on this line lay the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the model (12 cm) and put a point H5. 
From point L to the right along a horizontal line 2 cm aside and put the point L4. Point L4 connect the dotted line with the point H5. The intersection of the dotted line represent НН1 h6. 
From the point L4 down on the dotted line delay value of the segment Н5Н6 and put a point L5. From the point L4 to the right on the elbow lay 5 - 6 cm and put a point L6. Point L6 connect a straight line with a point L5. Points L5 and N5 connect a smooth line.

 Construction drawing of the pattern cuffs. Spend a vertical straight line, which lay 4 cm and put points A and N (Fig. 150,). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 The width of the cuff. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the measurements of the girth of your wrist plus 3 inches and put a point At (18 : 2 + 3 = 12 cm). Through the point In spend a vertical line down to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection denoted H1. 

 Construction drawing patterns collar. Spend a vertical line, on which lay 5 cm, and put points A and N (Fig. 150, g). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 The length of the collar. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat neck plus 2cm and put a point A1 (18 + 2 = 20 cm). Through the point A1 is carried out a vertical line down; the point of intersection with a line running from point N, denoted H1.

 Line vrachevanie. From point N1 up vertical lines lay 2 cm and put a point of H2. From the point N to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.5 cm and put a point H3. Point N, H3, H2 connect a smooth line. 

 Line of departure of the collar. From point A down the vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point A2. From the point A1 to the left on a horizontal line delay of 1.5 cm and put a point A3. Point H2 and A3 connect by a straight line and continue that line up on 1 see Point 1 connect smooth curved line with point A2. 

PANTS 

 Construction drawing pattern of the front halves of trousers. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure pants length (75 cm), and put the points T and N (Fig. 151, a). Through the points T and N hold right horizontal line. 

 Line step. From T point down the line TN postpone the measure seat heights plus 0.5 cm and put a point W (28 + 0,5 = 28,5 cm). Through point W to the right is carried out in a horizontal line. 

 The knee line. From T point down the line TN lay scoop knee-length (59 cm) and put a point K. from the point K to the right spend a horizontal line. 

 The hips. Point W up the line TN measurements lay 1/3 of the height of the seat and put B (28 : 3 = 9.4 cm). Through the obtained point to the right spend a horizontal line. 

 The width of the line step. From the point W to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat hips plus 6 inches and put a point SH1. 
ШШ1 = 53 : 2 + 6 = 32,5 cm 

 , fold the front half. Line ШШ1 divided in half, the point of division denote R2 (32,5 : 2 = 16,25 cm). Through the point ø2 spend a vertical line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of the waist, thigh, knee and bottom denote T1, B1, K1, H1. 

 Line front the cut. From a point SH1 to the left on a horizontal line delay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 0.5 cm and put the point of SH3. 
Ш1Ш3 = 53 : 10 + 0,5 = 5,8 cm
Through the point SH3 spend a vertical line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of the waist and hips represent the T2 and B2. From the point of SH3 up the line Ш3Т2 postpone 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 0.5 cm and put a point Ш4 (53 : 10 + 0,5 = 5,8 cm). Point Ш4 and SH1 connects with a dotted line to divide a dotted line between these points into three equal parts, from the bottom of the dividing point down a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points B2 and SH1. From the point T2 to the left of the line Т2Т postpone 1 cm and put a point T3.From the point T3 is lowered down the perpendicular, on which lay 1 cm, and put a point T4. Point T4 connect the straight line with the point B2.

 The waist line. From the point T3 on the line to the left lay Т2Т 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat waist plus 3 inches and put a point T5. 
Т3Т5 = 38 : 2 + 3 = 22 see 
Point T5 connect a straight line with a point T4. 

 Line tuck. From the point T1 to the left and right waist lay at 1.5 cm, I put the points T6 and T7. From point T1 down the line lay 12 Received see point 12 pieces smooth lines with points T6 and T7. 

 The bottom line is. From the point H1 to the left and right are set aside for 1/2 measure of poluobhvat lower leg plus a 2.5 cm and put the points N2 and N3. 
Н1Н2 = Н1Н3 = 18 : 2 + 2,5 = 11,5 cm
From point N1 up delay 0.5 cm, the resulting point connect straight lines with points of N2 and N3. 

 The side cut. Point T5, connect a smooth line with point B. Point W connect a straight line with the point H2; the point of intersection of this line with the line KK1 K2 represent. 

 The width of the trousers through the knee. From the point K1 to the right lay a distance equal to the segment К1К2, and put a point K3. 

 Step cut. Point SH1, K3, H3 connect a smooth line. 

 Draw a pattern of the rear halves of the pants. On the right side of a sheet of paper, stepping 6 cm from upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the pants (70 cm), and put the points T and N (Fig. 151, b). Through the points T and N the left spend a horizontal line. 

 Line step. From T point down the line TN postpone the measure seat heights plus 0.5 cm and put a point sh. 
TS = 28 + 0,5 = 28,5 cm 
Through point W to the left, spend a horizontal line. 

 The knee line. From T point down the line TN lay scoop knee-length (59 cm) and put a point K. from the point K to the left, spend a horizontal line. 

 The hips. Point W up the vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of the seat height and put B (28 : 3 = 9.4 cm). Through point B to the left, spend a horizontal line. 

 The width of the line step. From the point W to the left along a horizontal line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat hips plus 6 inches and put a point SH1. 
ШШ1 = 53 : 2 + 6 = 32,5 cm 

 fold Line. Line ШШ1 divided in half, the breaking point denoted R2. 
ШШ2 = ШШ1 = 32,5 : 2 = 16,25 cm 
Through the point ø2 spend a vertical line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of the waist, thigh, knee and bottom denote T1, B1, K1, H1. 

 Auxiliary line rear cut. From a point SH1 to the right lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 0.5 cm and put the point of SH3. Through the point SH3 up and spend a vertical line. The point of intersection with the line of the waist and hips represent the T2 and B2. Line Т2Т1 divided into three equal parts. Right point of division denoted T3. From point T3 raise a perpendicular, on which lay up 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips minus 1 cm, and put a point T4. 
Т3Т4 = 53 : 10 - 1 = 4,3 cm
Point T4 connect the dotted line with a dot SH3. The point of intersection with the line of the hips indicate B3. Angle Т2Ш3Ш1 divide in half; from the point of SH3 on the line dividing the angle of lay 1/20 measurements of poluobhvat hips minus 0.8 cm and put a point Ш4. 
Ш3Ш4 = 53 : 20 - 0,8 = 1.8 cm 

 Extension line of the step. From point R2 to the left on a horizontal line delay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 2.3 cm and put a point Ш5. 
Ш3Ш4 = 53 : 10 + 2,3 = 7,6 cm 

 waist Line. Line Т2Т continue to the right. From point T4 on this line make the notch a distance equal to the measure of poluobhvat waist, plus 3 cm, and put a point T5.
Т4Т5 = 38 : 2 + 3 = 22 see 

 Line tuck. Line Т4Т5 divide in half, from the points of division at right angles to the line Т4Т5 hold the line, where lay 14 cm From the dividing point on the line left and right lay, 1,5 cm and connect these points by smooth lines with the resulting point 14. 

 Width at the hip line. Line Б3Б continue to the right. From the point B3 to the right on a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat hips plus 2.5 cm for loose fit, minus the width of the front halves of the pants on the hip line between points B and B2, and put a point B4. 
Б3Б4 = 53 + 2,5 - 26,7 = 28,8 see 

 the bottom Line. From the point H1 to the left and to the right lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat tibia plus 3.5 cm and put the points N2 and N3. 
Н1Н2 = Н1Н3 = 18 : 2 + 3,5 = 12,5 cm 
Line Т1Н1 continue down to 0.5 cm the resulting point connect straight lines to points H3 and H2. 

 The side cut. Point T5, connect a smooth line with a point B4. Point B4 connect the straight line with the point H2. The point of intersection with a line denote KK1 K2. 

 The width of the trousers through the knee. From the point K1 to the left on a horizontal line lay a distance equal to the segment К1К2, and put a point K3. 

 Stepper cut. Point K3, connect a straight line from the point N3 and the dotted line with a dot Ш5. From the point K3 up on the dotted line lay a distance equal to К3Ш1 (with a drawing of the front halves of trousers), minus 1 cm (for a guy) and put a point Ш6. The dotted line between the points K3 and Ш6 divided in half; the point of division of a dotted line raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points Ш6 and K3. 

 Line the back of the slice. Line the back of the slice is performed through the point T4, B3, Ш4, Ш6. 

 Construction drawing patterns cuff trousers. On the left side spend a vertical line, on which lay 4.5 cm, and put points A and N (Fig. 151, C). EN - fold line of the cuff. Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 The length of the cuff. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the measurements of calf circumference plus 3 inches and put a point A1 (18 : 2 + 3 = 12 cm). Through the point A1 is carried out a vertical line down the point of intersection of this line with the line of the bottom indicate H1.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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