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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Quilted coat

The drawing of the pattern of this robe (Fig. 20) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat neck  18 Back width.  18
Poluobhvat chest  48 Shoulder length  13,5
Back length to the waist line  38 The gown  105
Front length to the waist line  43 Sleeve length  56
Breast height  27 Girth hands  29
The center of the chest  9,5 Sleeve length to elbow  32


 Draw the pattern of the back and shelves. On the left side of the sheet of paper 5 centimeters from the upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the Bathrobe plus 2 cm, and put points A and N (105 + 2 = 107 cm). Through points A and N right spend a horizontal line (Fig. 21). 

 The width of the robe. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 10 cm free customized fit and put a point B. 
AB = 48 + 10 = 58 cm 
Through the point In spend a vertical line down the point of intersection with the bottom line indicate N. 

 Back length to the waist line. From point A down the line an lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 2cm and put a point T (38 + 2 = 40 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line VN. the point of intersection represent T. 

 Line of the hips. From T point down the line an lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right is carried out in a horizontal line, the point of intersection with the line VN indicate B. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the measure of the width of the back plus 3.5 cm and put a point A.
A = 18 a + 3.5 = 21,5 cm 

 Width of the openings. From the point A to the right of the line AB lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest, plus a 2.5 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 48 : 4 + 2,5 = 14.5 cm.
Through the points A and A spend a vertical line. 

 The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right along the line AB. lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.2 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 3 + 1,2 = 7,2 cm
For shapes with fatty deposits in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra the width of the neck increases at 0.5 cm From point A raise up perpendicular to the line AA which point A lay up 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.8 cm, and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 10 + 0,8 = 2,6 cm 
Angle AAA divide in half, from point A line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.3 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 10 - 0,3 = 1.5 cm 
Point A, A and connect a smooth line. 

 Shoulder cut. From the point A down on a vertical line lay 2.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 1.5 cm - for high shoulders, 3.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. the Point P A and connect with a straight line on which the points lay to the right A measure the shoulder length plus 2 cm for the tuck, plus 1 cm on the descent of the shoulder and put a point P. 
AP = 13,5 + 2 + 1 = 16,5 cm 

 Depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8.5 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 8,5 = 20.5 cm. 
For a hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9 cm (48 : 4 + 9 = 21 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm (48 : 4 + 8 = 20 cm). 
Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of an outline G, with a line width of openings - G and line VN - G. 

 Cut the armhole of the back. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2cm and put a point P. 
GP = 20,5 : 3 + 2 = 8,7 cm 
Angle PGG divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 2 cm, and put a point P. 
HP = 14,5 : 10 + 2 = 3.5 cm.
Cut GHG divide in half and put a point G. Point P, P, P and G connect a smooth line. 

 The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6.5 cm and put a point P. 
HP = 48 : 4 + 6,5 = 18,5 cm 
For the hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6 cm (48 : 4 + 6 = 18 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm (48 : 4 + 7 = 19 cm). 
Through the point to the left P spend a horizontal line, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm).
From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 cut GP and put a point P. 
GP = GP : 3 = 18,5 : 3 = 6,2 see 
the Point P and P connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half PP, from the points of division at right angles to the dotted lines to the right lay 1 cm, getting the point 1. Angle PGG divide in half, from point G line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.3 cm and put a point P. 
HP = 14,5 : 10 + 1,3 = 2.8 cm 
Point P, 1, P, P and G connect a smooth line. 

 Line Boca. From the point G lowered perpendicular to the line of bottom. The point of intersection with the line of the waist, hips and bottom respectively designate T, B and N. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From the point P up the line NOW lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat breast plus 3 inches and put a dot B. 
GV = 48 : 2 + 3 = 27 see 
For hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 2 cm (48 : 2 + 2 = 26 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 4 cm (48 : 2 + 4 = 28 cm).
From the point P up the line GO aside an amount equal to HV segment and put a point W. Points B and F connect with a straight line. From the point B to the left of the line VV lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.2 cm and put a point W. 
WW = 18 : 3 + 1,2 = 7,2 cm 
From point B down the line VN lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.5 cm and put a point W. Point V and V connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half WV, point dividing the join the dotted line from point B. From point B on this line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.3 cm and put a point W.
WW = 18 : 3 + 1,3 = 7,3 see 
the Point W, V and W connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G line GH to the left lay the measure of center of the chest plus 1 cm and put a point G (a 9.5 + 1 = 10.5 cm). Through the point G spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line VV. The point of intersection represent V. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point V down the vertical line delay measurements height chest plus 1 cm and put a point G (27 + 1 = 28 cm). 

 The shoulder cut shelves and line tuck. From the point B down on a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point W. Point V W and connect with a straight line. Point P and V connect the dotted line. From the point P right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of VB, minus 0.3 cm, plus 1 cm and put a point W. 
PV = 13,5 - 3,3 - 0,3 + 1 = 10,9 see 
Point G and V connect a straight line on which the point G up delay period equal to the segment HV, and put a point W. Point V P and connect with a straight line. 

 The waist line shelves. From the point C down the line VN lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist plus 2 cm, and put a point T (43 + 2 = 45 cm). Point T and T connect a smooth line. 

 The hips of the shelves. From the point B lay down a segment equal to segment TC, and put a point B. Point B and B connected, a smooth line. 

 Line the bottom of the shelves. A vertical line VN continue down. From the point N down the line delay value of the segment TT and put a point N. Point N and N connect a smooth line. 

 Line side. Through the point V hold right horizontal line, which lay 2.5 cm, and put a point O. From point N hold right horizontal line, which lay 3 cm, and put a point O. The point About O and connect with a straight line. 
The location of the pocket in the drawing the shelves are shown in figures. 

 Construction drawing of the pattern sleeve. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of sleeve (56 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 22). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 Sleeve width. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the measure of the circumference of the hand plus 11 cm and put a point In (AB = 29 + 11 = 40 cm). From the point In down perpendicular to the bottom line, the point of intersection represent N. 

 The height of the top part of the sleeve. From point A down the line an lay 3/4 of the depth of the armhole of the back and put the point O. 
AO = 20,5 : 4 X 3 = 15,3 cm 
Through the point On the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line VN, the point of intersection represent A. 

 Line elbow. From point A down the line an lay scoop length sleeves to the elbow plus 2cm and put a point L. point L to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line VN, the point of intersection of the lines represent L. 

 Line of lifts the shoulders. Line OE divided into six equal parts, the points of division denote O, O, O, O and O. Through each point of division conduct a vertical line to the intersection with the line AB. The point of intersection denote A, A, A, A and A.
From the point A up the line OA lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 0.5 cm and put a point A (OA = 15,3 : 3 - 0,5 = 4.6 cm). From the point A down the line AO lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 2.3 cm and put a point A (AA = 15,3 : 3 - 2,3 = 2.8 cm). From the point A down the line AO lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 2 cm and put a point A. (AA = 15,3 : 3 - 2 = 3.1 cm). From the point A up the line lay 1/6 of the height of the top part of the sleeves and put a point A (OA = 15,3 : 6 = 2.6 cm). Point On, A, A, A, A, A and A connect a smooth line. 

 The middle line of the sleeve. Line AO continue down. The point of intersection of this line with the line of the elbow represent L. The point of intersection with the bottom line indicate N. From the point N right on a horizontal line lay 2 cm and put a point N. Point N L and connect with a straight line. 

 Line front cutoff sleeves. From the point N right on a horizontal line lay 15 cm (1/2 width of the sleeve at the bottom of the model) and put a point N. Point N and O connect the dotted line. From the point of intersection of the dotted line and the elbow to the left through the elbow postpone 1 cm and put a point L. Point O, L and N connect a smooth line.

 Line the back of the cut sleeve. From the point N left upon the earth perpendicular to the line LN. From the point N on this line lay 15 cm (1/2 width of the sleeve at the bottom of the model) and put a point N. From point L to the right along a horizontal line lay 1.5 - 2 cm and put a point L. Point L and connect with a straight line. Point L and N connect the dotted line. The intersection of the dotted line represent N N. 

 Line elbow tuck. From the point L down on the dotted line delay value of the segment MN, and put a point L. From the point L right on the elbow lay 5 - 6 cm and put a point L. Point L connect a straight line with a point L. Point L N and connect with a straight line. 

 Preparing fabric to cutting. Quilted coat can be made from any opaque tissue. For gaskets you can use a thin layer of foam or batting. One layer of batting or foam is applied to the outer fabric wrong side down and primetyvajut in several places in the vertical and horizontal directions. Sharpened chalk or soap outline line prostukivanie. Silk threads in color of a robe or finishing scribbling on the planned lines. 

 Drawing style lines on patterns (see Fig. 21). Top tuck transferred to the line of openings. Point P G and connect with a straight line. The pattern on this line is cut, tuck top stab with pins. 

 Cutting. All the details of the Bathrobe for kids strictly common thread. For this pattern, cut out the lining. 

 Sewing. Smatyvay tuck in the shoulder cut of the back and in the line of openings. Smatyvay shoulder, side cuts and cuts the sleeves. Umatyvaet collar at the neckline and sleeve armholes. Doing a fitting. After eliminating all the flaws start sewing. Sew Darts, tucks in the shoulder cut of the back zametyvayut and priorivet towards the middle of the back, tuck in the armhole shelves iron down. Sew shoulder, side cuts and cuts, sleeveless, seams rautureau on both sides or cut and overcast on the machine. Allowance of podborta and bottom of the robe bends towards the inside and primetyvajut to Latino or foam.Stachivaya collar and sleeves. Sew the lining seams rautureau. Lining sew hidden stitches. The collar, sleeves, sides and pockets can bind with bias binding, cut from fabric finishes.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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