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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Quilted jacket

The drawing of the pattern for such a jacket (Fig. 23) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat neck  18 Shoulder length  13,5
Poluobhvat chest  48 Sleeve length  58
Back length to the waist line  38 Sleeve length to elbow  32
Front length to the waist line  43 Girth hands  29
Breast height  27 The circumference of the wrist  16
The center of the chest  9,5 The length of the jacket  58
Back width.  18    


 Draw the pattern of the back and shelves. On the left side of a sheet of paper 5 centimeters from the upper edge spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the jacket (58 cm), and put points A and N. Through points A and N right spend a horizontal line (Fig. 24).

 The width of the jacket. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm free customized fit and put a point B. 
AB = 48 + 7 = 55, see 
Through the point To spend a vertical line down the point of intersection with the bottom line indicate N. 

 Back length to the waist line. From point A down the line an lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 2cm and put a point T (38 + 2 = 40 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line VN, the point of intersection represent T. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line delaying the measure width of back plus 2cm and put a point A. 
A = 18 + 2 = 20 cm 

 Width of the openings. From the point A lay right on the line AV 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 2cm and put a point A. 
AA = 48 : 4 + 2 = 14 see 
Through A and A spend a vertical line. 

 Cut neck backless. From point A to the right along the line AB. lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.2 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 3 + 1,2 = 7,2 cm 
For shapes of the body fat in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra the width of the neck increases at 0.5 cm From point A raise up perpendicular to the line A at which point A lay up 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.8 cm, and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 10 + 0,8 = 2,6 cm 
Angle AAA divide in half, from point A line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.3 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 10 - 0,3 = 1,5 cm:
Point A, A and connect a smooth line. 

 Shoulder cut. From the point A down on a vertical line lay 2.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 1.5 cm - for high shoulders, 3.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. the Point P A and connect with a straight line on which the points lay to the right A measure the shoulder length plus 2 cm for the tuck, plus 0.7 cm, and put a point P. 
AP = 13,5+ 2+ 0,7 = 16,2 cm 

 Depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm and put a point G
PG = 48 : 4 + 8 = 20 cm
 To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8.5 cm (48 : 4 + 8,5 = 20.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm (48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm). 
Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of an outline G, with a line width of openings - G and line VN - G. 

 Cut the armhole of the back. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2cm and put a point P. 
GP = PG : 3 + 2 = 20 : 3 + 2 = 8,6 see
Angle PGG divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 2 cm, and put a point P. 
GP = GG : 10 + 2 = 14 : 10 + 2 = 3,4 see 
Line GG divide in half and put a point G. Point P, P, P and G connect a smooth line. 

 The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6cm and put a point P. 
HP = 48 : 4 + 6 = 18 cm 
For the hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5.5 cm (48 : 4 + 5,5 = 17.5 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6.5 cm (48 : 4 + 6,5 = 18.5 cm). 
Through the point to the left P spend a horizontal line, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). 
From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 cut GP and put a point P. 
GP = GP : 3= 18 : 3 = 6 cm.
Point P and P connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half PP, from the points of division at right angles to the dotted lines to the right lay 1 cm, getting the point 1. Angle PGG divide in half, from point G line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.3 cm and put a point P. 
HP = 14 : 10 + 1,3 = 2.7 cm 
Point P, 1, P, P and G connect a smooth line. 

 Line sides. From the point G lowered perpendicular to the line of bottom. The point of intersection with the line of the waist and bottom denote T and N. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From the point P up the line NOW lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest, plus a 2.5 cm and put a dot B. 
GV = 48 : 2 + 2,5 = 26,5 cm 
For the hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest, plus 1.5 cm (48 : 2 + 1,5 = 25,5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 3.5 cm (48 : 2 a + 3.5 = 27.5 cm). 
From the point P up the line GA delay value of the segment HV and put a point W. Points B and F connect with a straight line. From the point B to the left of the line VV lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.2 cm and put a point W. 
WW = 18: 3+ 1,2 = 7,2 cm
From point B down the line VN lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.5 cm and put a point W. Point V and V connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half WV, point dividing the join the dotted line from point B. From point B on this line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.3 cm and put a point W. 
WW = 18 : 3 + 1,3 = 7,3 see 
the Point W, V and W connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G line GH to the left lay the measure of center of the chest plus 1 cm and put a point G (a 9.5 +1 = 10.5 cm). Through the point G spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line VV. The point of intersection represent V. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point V down the vertical line delay measurements height chest plus 1 cm and put a point G (27 + 1 = 28 cm). 

 Shoulder cut line tuck. From the point B down on a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point W. Point V W and connect with a straight line. Point P and V connect the dotted line. From the point P right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length minus the value of the cut VV, minus 0.3 cm, 0.7 cm plus, you end U. 
PV = 13,5 - 3,3 - 0,3 + 0,7 = 10,6 see 
Point G and V connect a straight line on which the point G up delay period equal to the segment HV and put a point W. Point V P and connect with a straight line. 

 The length of the shelves to the waist line. From point B down the line VN lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist 
plus 2 cm, and put a point T (43 + 2 = 45 cm). Point T and T connect a smooth line. 

 Line the bottom of the shelves. A vertical line VN continue down. From the point N down the line delay value of the segment TT and put a point N. Point N and N connect a smooth line. 

 Construction of the line side. Through the point V hold right horizontal line, which lay 2 cm, and put a point O. From point N hold right horizontal line, which lay 2.5 cm, and put a point O. The point About O and connect with a straight line. 

 Construction drawing of the pattern sleeve (Fig. 24, b). On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay scoop sleeve length (58 cm), and put points A and N. Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 Sleeve width. From point A to the right along a horizontal line delaying measure girth hands plus 9 cm and put the point B.
AB = 29 + 9 = 38 cm 
From point To lowered perpendicular to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection represent N. 

 The height of the top part of the sleeve. From point A down the line an lay 3/4 of the depth of the armhole of the back and put the point O. 
AO = 20 4 x 3 = 15 see 
- Through point On the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line VN, the point of intersection represent A. 

 The line of the elbow. From point A down the line an lay scoop length sleeves to the elbow plus 2cm and put a point L. point L to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line WN and put a point L. 

 Line of lifts the shoulders. Line OE divided into six equal parts, the points of division denote O, O, O, O and O. Through each point of division.spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line AB. The point of intersection denote A, A, A, A and A. 
From the point A up the line OA lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 0.5 cm and put a point A. 
OA = 15 : 3 - 0,5 = 4.5 cm 
From point A down the line AO lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 2.3 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 15 : 3 - 2,3 = 2.7 cm 
From the point A down the line AO lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 2 cm and put a point A.
EA = 15 : 3 - 2 = 3 cm 
From a point A up the line lay 1/6 of the height of the top part of the sleeves and put a point A. 
OA = 15 : 6 = 2.5 cm 
Point On, A, A, A, A, A and A connect a smooth line. 

 The middle line of the sleeve. Line AO continue down. The point of intersection of this line with the line of the elbow represent L, the point of intersection with the bottom line indicate N. From the point N right on a horizontal line lay 2 cm and put a point N. Point N connect a straight line with a point L. 

 Line front the cut sleeve. From the point N right on the line NN lay 1/2 of the measurements of wrist circumference plus 4 cm and put a point N. 
NN = 16: 2+ 4 = 12, see 
Point N and O connect the dotted line. From the point of intersection of the dotted line and the elbow to the left through the elbow postpone 1 cm and put a point L. Point L combine smooth lines with dots A and N. 

 Line the back of the cut sleeve. From the point N left upon the earth perpendicular to the line LN. From the point N on this line lay 1/2 of the measurements of wrist circumference plus 4 cm and put a point N. 
NN = 16 : 2 + 4 = 12 cm.
From point L to the right along a horizontal line lay 2 cm and put a point L. Point L connect a straight line with a point O and the dashed line with the point N. The intersection of the dotted line represent N N. 

 The line of the elbow tuck. From the point L down on the dotted line delay value of the segment MN, and put a point L. From the point L right on the elbow lay 5 - 6 cm and put a point L. Point L connect a straight line with a point L. Point L and N connect a smooth line. 

 Cutting. All the details jackets for kids strictly common thread. For this pattern, cut out the lining. 

 Sewing. Smatyvay tuck in the shoulder cut of the back and in the line of openings. Smatyvay shoulder, side cuts and cuts the sleeves. Umatyvaet collar in the neck and the sleeves in the armhole. Doing a fitting. After eliminating the shortcomings start sewing. Sew Darts, tucks in the shoulder cut of the backzametyvayut and priorivet towards the middle of the back, tuck in the armhole shelves iron down. Sew shoulder, side cuts and slices sleeveless, seams rautureau on both sides or cut and overcast on car. Allowance of podborta and bottom of the jacket to buckle towards the inside andprimetyvajut to Latino or foam. Stachivaya collar and sleeves. Grind lining, seams rautureau. Lining sew hidden stitches. The collar, sleeves, sides and pockets can bind with bias binding, cut from fabric finishes.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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