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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Shift dress with Raglan sleeves

The drawing of the pattern for this dress (Fig. 55) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat neck  18 Front length to the waist line  43
Poluobhvat chest  48 Shoulder length  13,5
Poluobhvat waist  38 Back width.  18
Poluobhvat hips  53 Sleeve length  58
The length of the dress  104 The circumference of the wrist  16
Back length to the waist line  38    


 A preliminary calculation. Before the creation of the drawing pattern dress with a Raglan sleeve, it is necessary to make a preliminary calculation. 

 The width of the dress at the chest line is equal to the measure of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm (48 + 5 = 53 cm). 

 Back width is equal to the measure of the width of the back, plus 1.5 cm (18 + 1,5 = 19,5 cm). 

 The width of the openings is 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 0.5 cm (48 : 4 + 0,5 = 12,5 cm). 

 The width of the shelf is equal to the width of the dress at the chest line minus the width of back and width of the armhole (53 - 19,5 - 12,6 = 21 cm). 

 Construction drawing patterns backless. On the left side of a sheet of paper, at a distance of 7 cm from upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the yardstick length (104 cm), and put points A and N. Through points A and N right spend a horizontal line (Fig. 56). 

 Length to the waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put the point T. point T right spend a horizontal line. 

 Length to the hip line. From point T down on a vertical line lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right spend a horizontal line. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the width of the back (on a preliminary calculation) and put a point A (AA = 19.5 cm). 

 The width of the openings. From the point A right on a horizontal line lay the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point A (AA = 12.5 cm). Through A and A spend a vertical line down. 

 Line neck backless. From point A to the right of the line AA lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see 
For shapes with fatty deposits in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra cut A increase of 0.5 cm 
From point A raise a perpendicular on which from the point A up delay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm, and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 10 + 1 = 2.8 cm 
Angle AAA divide in half, from point A line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.3 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18: 10 - 0,3 = 1,5 cm
Point A, A and connect A smooth concave line. 

 Auxiliary line of the shoulder cut. From the point A down on a vertical line lay 4 cm for the normal shoulders, 3 cm high shoulder, 5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. the Point P A and connect with a straight line. 

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm 
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm (48 : 4 + 8 = 20 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm (48 : 4 + 7 = 19 cm). 
Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection of this line with the line G an outline, with the line of openings - G. 

 The line of rise of the neck. From point A on a vertical line up delay of 0.7 cm and put a point A. From the point A vertically up delay 0.7 cm and put a point A. Point A and A connect a smooth concave line. 

 Line of the armhole of the backrest. From the point A line AA lay to the left of 2 cm and put a point A. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the size of a piece GP plus 1 cm and put a point P. 
GP = GP : 3 + 1 = 19,5 : 3 + 1 = 7,5 see
Line GG divide in half and put a point G. Point A, P and G connect the dotted lines. The dotted line between points A and B divided into four equal parts, the points of division denote Oh, O and O. From the point O raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm, and put a point O. The dotted line between points P and H divided in half, the dividing point down, raise a perpendicular of length 1.8 cm and put a point O. Point A, O, O, O and G connect a smooth line. 

 The auxiliary line side cut. Through the point G spend a vertical line down the point of its intersection with the line of the waist, hips and bottom respectively designate T, B and N. 

 The back half of the sleeve. From point P raise a perpendicular to the line AP, which from the point P lay 2 cm and put a point P. Point A P and connect with a straight line and continue this line to measure the shoulder length plus 1 cm and put a point P (of 13.5 + 1 = 14.5 cm). From the point A right on the line lay AO 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest minus 2 cm and put a point P. 
AP = 48 : 10 - 2 = 2.8 cm
From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest minus 4 cm and put a point P. 
HP = 48 : 4 - 4 = 8 see 
Point P P and connect with a straight line and continue that line down. Point P and P connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half PP from the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.4 cm, and put a point P. Point P, P and P connect a smooth line. 

 Sleeve length. From the point P through P and P lay scoop sleeve length (58 cm) and put a point P. 

 Sleeve width at the bottom. From the point P to the line PP raise a perpendicular on which from the point P lay 1/2 of the measurements of the circumference of the wrist plus 3cm, and put a point P. 
PP = 16 : 2 + 3 = 11 cm 
Distance between points P and P divided in half, the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connected to the points P and P a smooth line. 

 Line of the armhole sleeve. From the point P carried out perpendicular to the line PP at which point O with a radius equal to the segment OG, make a notch and put a dot P. Point P and A connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half PO from the bottom of the dividing point to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1.8 cm and put a point O. Point O, O and P connect a smooth concave line. 

 Line of the elbow cut. Point P and P connect the dotted line. From the point P down the line PPP delay measurements length sleeves to the elbow plus 2cm and put a point L.
From point L upon the earth perpendicular to the line PP to the intersection with the dashed line, the point of intersection designated by the letter L. Line LL continue to the left by 1 cm and put a point L. Point P, L and P connect a smooth line. On the line of the elbow can be cut to make a tuck. Mortar tuck - 1.5 - 2 cm, length 5 - 6 cm 

 draw patterns shelves. On the right side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the yardstick length plus 5 - 7 cm, and put points A and N (104 + 5 = 109 cm). Through points A and H to the left, spend a horizontal line (Fig. 57). 

 The depth of the openings. From point A down the line an lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 3.5 cm and put a point G. 
AG = 48 : 2 + 3,5 = 27,5 cm 
For the hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest, plus a 2.5 cm (48 : 2 + 2,5 = 26.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 4.5 cm (48 : 2 + 4,5 = 28.5 cm). Through the point G to the left, spend a horizontal line. 

 The width of the shelves. From point A to the left along a horizontal line lay the width of the shelves (pre-calculation) and put a point A (AA = 21 cm). 

 The width of the openings. From the point I left on a horizontal line lay the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point A (AA = 12.5 cm). Through A and A spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line of the chest. The intersection points represent G and G. 

 The auxiliary line side cut. The distance between the points G and H divide in half and put a point G. Through the point G spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection represent N. From the point G down on a vertical line lay a distance equal segments GT and TB from the drawing. of the backrest (see Fig. 56), and put the points T and B. Through the points T and B hold right horizontal line to the intersection with the line an. The intersection points represent T and B. 

 Line neckline shelves. From point A to the left along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point A.
AA = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7 cm 
From point A down the line an lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.3 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 3 + 2,3 = 8,3 see 
the Point A and A connect the dotted line, divide AA cut in half, from point A through point division is carried out by the dotted line, which lay between a point And 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point A. 
AA = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7,5 cm 
Point A, A, A connect a smooth concave line. 

 Line the center of the chest. From the point G to the left on a horizontal line delay distance equal to the measure of the center of the chest (9.5 cm), and put a point G. Through the point G spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line AA. The point of intersection represent A. From the point A down on a vertical line lay the measure of the height of the chest and put a point G. 

 The line of the shoulder cut and tuck. From the point A down on a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point A. Point A A and connect with a straight line. From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6.5 cm and put a point P.
HP = 48 : 4 + 6,5 = 18,5 cm 
For the hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6 cm (48 : 4 + 6 = 18 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm (48 : 4 + 7 = 19 cm). Through the point P to the left carried out a horizontal line on which the point P to the left lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). 
Point P connect the dotted line with a dot A. From the point P right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length minus the distance between points A and A, minus 0.3 cm and put a point P.
PP = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm 
From point G point P spend a straight line equal to the right side of the tuck, and put a point P. 

 The line of rise of the neck. Line AA continue to the right by 0.7 cm and put a point A. From the point A up from
kladivo 0.7 cm and put a point A. Point A and A connect a smooth concave line. 

 Line of the armhole shelves. From the point A down the line AA lay 3.5 cm and put a point A. Through the point to the left A spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line AG, the point of intersection represent A. From the point A down on a vertical line lay 4 cm and put a point A. Point A connect with point O smooth, slightly convex line. From the point P down the line PG lay cut AA and put a point A. 
From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the value of the distance GP minus 0.8 cm and put a point A. 
GA = GP : 3 - 0,8 = 18,5 : 3 - 0,8 = 5,4 see
Point A and A connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half AA, point of division denote A. From the point E raise up perpendicular to the line AA, which lay 0.4 cm, and put a point A. Point A and G connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half AG, from the points of division down, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1.5 cm, and put a point A. Point A, A, A, A and G connect a smooth line. 

 Front half sleeves. From the point P on a horizontal line to the left postpone 1 cm and put a point P. From the point G left on a horizontal line lay 2 cm and put a point G. Point P G and connect with a straight line and continue that line down. 
From the point P on line PG make a notch with a radius equal to the distance PP with the drawing of the backrest (see Fig. 56), and put a point P. Point P and P connect the dotted line, divide it in half, the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.4 cm, and put a point P. From the point P right at the shoulder slice, lay 2 cm and put a point P.
Point P, P, P and P connect a smooth line and continue this line down from the point P a distance equal measure sleeve length (58 cm), and put a point P. 

 Sleeve width at the bottom. From the point P right raise up perpendicular to the line PP at which point P lay 1/2 of the measurements of the circumference of the wrist plus 3cm, and put a point P. 
PP = 16 : 2 + 3 = 11 cm 
Distance between points P and P divided in half, the dividing point upward raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm, and connect the obtained point of the smooth line with points P and P. 

 Line of the armhole sleeve. From the point P right raise up perpendicular to the line PP. From the point A with a radius equal to the segment AH, on this line make a cut and put a point P. Point P and A connect the dotted line, divide the resulting segment into three equal parts, from the bottom of the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1.5 cm, and put a point A. Point A, A and B connect a smooth concave line. 

 Line elbow cut. Point P and P connect the dotted line. From the point P down the line PP delay measurements length sleeves to the elbow plus 2cm and put a point L. From point L to the right raise up perpendicular to the line PP to the intersection with the dotted line PP the point of intersection represent L. From the point L the left on line LL postpone 1 cm and put a point L. Point P, L and P connect a smooth line. 

 The calculation of the depth of the tucks at the waist. If the dress must be fitted, it is necessary at the waist to do tuck. To determine the value of the solution tucks need to find the difference between the width of the scarf on to the breast line taking into account allowance for the free fit and the width of the scarf on the waist line subject to the allowance for loose fit (48 + 5 = 53 cm; 38 + 2 = 40 cm; 53 - 40 = 13 cm). The value of the solution tucks all equal to 13 cm.
The value of the solution front tuck 0.2 of the total solution tucks (13 x 0.2 = 2.6 cm). The value of the solution side tuck of 0.35 of the total solution tucks (13 x 0.35 = 4.6 cm). The value of the solution of the two rear Darts is 0.45 of the total solution tucks (13 x 0.45 = 5.8 cm). The value of one rear tuck is equal to 5,8 : 2 = 2.9 cm, 

 the Calculation of the width of the dress at the hip line. To measure the poluobhvat hips add 2cm for loose fit. From the obtained value subtracted the width of the dress you received when creating drawings backrest and shelves between points B and B on the back shelf. The result is distributed equally between the front and back: 53 + 2 = 55; 55 - 25,8 (with drawing backless) - 27,2 (drawing shelves) = 2 cm; 2 : 2 = 1 cm.
From the point B in the drawing of the back right postpone 1 cm and put a point B. In the drawing the shelves from the point B to the left to continue the line for 1 cm and put a point B. Through B (in the drawing backrest and shelves) hold down the vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line, getting a point N. 

 Side cut backless (see Fig. 56). From the point T left on a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the magnitude of the solution side tuck (4,6 : 2 = 2.3 cm) and put a point T. Point T connect a straight line with a point G and the dashed line with the point B. Cut TB divide in half, from the points of division to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points T and B. 

 Side cut shelves (see Fig. 57). From the point T to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the magnitude of the solution side tuck (4,6 : 2 = 2.3 cm) and put a point T. Point T connect a straight line with a point G and the dashed line with the point B. Cut GB divide in half, from the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points T and B. 

 The waist line the shelves. From point A down the line an lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put a point T (43 x 0.5 = 43.5 cm). Point T and T connect a smooth line. 

 The hips. From the point B lay down the amount TT and put a point B. Point B and B connect a smooth line. 

 Line the bottom of the dress. From the point C down the line side of the cut lay the value of the cut IN (drawing back) and put a point N. Point N connect a smooth line with the H-point. 

 The construction of the Darts at the waist line similar to the construction of the Darts in the drawing, one-piece dresses (see Fig. 53).



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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