The drawing of the pattern shift dress with set-in sleeves (Fig. 52) must be removed following measurements (in cm):
Poluobhvat neck |
18 |
Back width. |
18 |
Poluobhvat chest |
48 |
Shoulder length |
13,5 |
Poluobhvat waist |
38 |
The length of the dress |
105 |
Poluobhvat hips |
53 |
Girth hands |
29 |
Back length to the waist line |
38 |
Sleeve length |
58 |
Front length to the waist line |
43 |
Length of hand to elbow |
32 |
Breast height |
27 |
The circumference of the wrist |
16 |
The center of the chest |
9,5 |
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Draw the pattern of the back and shelves. On the left side of a sheet of paper, at a distance of 10 cm from upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the yardstick length (105 cm) and put points A and N. Through points A and N right spend a horizontal line (Fig. 53).
The width of the dress. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm free customized fit and put a point B.
AB = 48 + 5 = 53, see
Through the point To spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection represent N.
Back length to the waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 0.5 cm and put a point T (38 + 0,5 = 38.5 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line VN, the point of intersection with this line indicate T.
Line of the hips. From point T down on a vertical line lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line VN, the point of intersection with this line indicate B.
Back width. From point A to the right of the line AB lay the measure of the width of the back plus 1.5 cm and put a point A.
A = 18 a 1.5 = 19.5 cm
Width of the openings. From the point A to the right of the line AB lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 0.5 cm and put a point A.
AA = 48 : 4 + 0,5 = 12,5 cm
Through A and A spend a vertical line down.
The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a point A.
AA = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm
For shapes with fatty deposits in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra width. neck backless increasing at 0.5 cm
From point A raise up perpendicular to the line A at which point A lay up 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.8 cm and put a point A.
AA = 18 : 10 + 0,8 = 2,6 cm
Angle AAA divide in half, from point A line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.3 cm and
put a point A.
AA = 18 : 10 - 0,3 = 1.5 cm
Point A, A and connect A smooth concave line.
Shoulder cut. From the point A down on a vertical line lay 2.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 1.5 cm - for high shoulders, 3.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. the Point P A and connect with a straight line, which (from the point A) lay to the right measure the shoulder length plus 1.6 - 2 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 cm for landings and put a point P.
AP = 13,5 + 1,6 + 0,5 = 15,6 cm
Build Darts from the shoulder cut , see Fig. 196 in the section "Simulation".
The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm and put a point G
PG = 48 : 4 + 7 = 19 see
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm (48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6.5 cm (48 : 4 + 6,5 = 18.5 cm).
Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of an outline G,with a line width of openings - G with the line UN - G.
Note. Measure the depth of the openings, it is possible to control additional yardstick, measure the length of the sides, it is removed from the drawstring at the waist to the underarm, hands minus 2 cm
cut of the armhole of the backrest. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2cm and put a point P.
HP = 19 : 3 + 2 = 8,3 cm
Angle PGG divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.8 cm and put a point P.
GP = 12,5 : 10 + 1,8 = 3.1 cm
Line GG divide in half and put a point G. Point P, P, P and G connect a smooth line.
The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm and put a point P.
HP = 48 : 4 + 5 = 17 cm.
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 4.5 cm (48 : 4 + 4,5 = 16,5 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5.5 cm (48 : 4 + 5,5 = 17.5 cm).
Through the point to the left P spend a horizontal line on which the points lay P 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 cut GP and put a point P.
GP = GP : 3 = 17 : 3 = 5.7 cm
Point P and P connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half PP, from the points of division at right angles to the dotted line lay 1 see Get point 1. Angle PGG divide in half, from point G line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.1 cm and put a point P.
GP = 12,5 : 10 + 1,1 = 2,4 see
the Point P, 2, P, P and G connect a smooth concave line.
Line Boca. From the point G to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the width of the openings, and put a point G (12,5 : 3 = 4.2 cm). From the point G lowered perpendicular to the line of bottom. The point of intersection with the line of the waist, hips and bottom respectively designate T, B and N.
The cut of the neckline shelves. From the point G up on a vertical line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest, plus 1.5 cm and put a dot B.
GV = 48 : 2 + 1,5 = 25,5 cm
From the point P up the line HE lay cut GW and put a point W. Points B and F connect with a straight line. From the point B to the left of the line VV lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.5 cm and put a point W.
WW = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm
From point B down the line VN lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2cm and put a point W.
WW = 18 : 3 + 2 = 8 see
Point W and W connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half WV, point dividing the join the dotted line from point B. From point B on this line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point W.
WW = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see
Point W, W and W connect a smooth concave line.
The center of the chest. From the point G line GH to the left lay the measure of center of the chest (9.5 cm) and put a point G. Through the point G spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line VV, the point of intersection represent V.
The protruding point of the breast. From the point V down the vertical line delay measurements height chest (27 cm) and put a point G.
Shoulder cut line tuck. From the point B down on a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point W. Point V W and connect with a straight line. Point P and V connect the dotted line. From the point P right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of VB, minus 0.3 cm and put a point W.
PV = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm
Point G and V connect a straight line on which the point G up delay value cut GW and put a point W. Point V P and connect with a straight line.
The calculation of the solution tucks at the waist. If the dress must be fitted, it is necessary to make tucks. To determine the value of the solution tucks need to find the difference between the width of the scarf on the chest (including the allowance for free customized fit and width of the scarf at the waist taking into account the allowance for loose fit (48 + 5 = 53 cm; 38 + 3 = 41 cm; 53 - 41 = 12 cm). The value of the solution tucks all equal 12 cm.
The value of the solution front tuck is 0.25 of the total solution tucks (12 x 0,25 = 3 cm). The value of the solution side tuck equal to 0.4 of the total solution tucks (12 x 0.4 = 4.8 cm). The amount of solution back tuck of 0.35 of the total solution tucks (12 x 0.35 = 4.2 cm).
The calculation of the width of the dress at the hip line. To calculate the width of the scarf at the hip line to measure the poluobhvat hips add 2cm for loose fit, from the obtained value subtracted the width of the dress obtained during the creation of the drawing between the points B, B (53 + 2 - 53 = 2 cm). The obtained value (2 cm) is distributed evenly between the front and back (2 : 2 = 1 cm). From the point B left and right postpone 1 cm and put points B and B.
From the point C left and right at the waist line delaying half of the solution side tuck (4,8 : 2 = 2.4 cm) and dots T and T. Point T and T connect straight lines from point G and continue this line to the line of openings. Point T connect the dotted line with a dot B, point C - point B. The distance between these points is divided in half, points in the direction of line sides raise perpendiculars, on which lay 0.5 cm plotting points connect the dots B, C and B, T smooth lines. Through the point B and B spend a vertical line to the bottom line.The point of intersection with the bottom line indicate N and N.
The waist line the shelves. From point B down the line VN lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist line plus 0.5 cm (43 x 0.5 = 43.5 cm) and put a point T. Point T and T connect a smooth line.
The hips of the shelves. From the point B down the vertical lines of the delay value of the segment TT and put a point B. Point B and B connect a smooth line.
Line the bottom of the shelves. A vertical line VN continue down from point N down the line delay value of the segment TT and put a point N. Point N and N connect a smooth line.
Making Darts on the back. The distance between points G and H divided in half, the point of division denote G. Through the point G spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line of the hips. The point of intersection with the lines of waist and hips refer T and B. From the point C left and right lay on the half of the depth of the back Darts (4,2 : 2 = 2.1 cm) and dots T and T. From the point G down on a vertical line lay 1 - 3 cm and put a point G. From the point B up on a vertical line lay 4 see Point T and T connect slightly concave lines with the obtained point and the point G.
Line front tuck. Through the point G down, spend a vertical line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of the waist indicate T, hips - B. From the point C left and right lay in the half depth front tuck (3 : 2 = 1.5 cm) and dots T and T. From the point G down on a vertical line and from a point B up on the same line lay 5 cm of the resulting points are linked by straight lines with points T and T.
Construction drawing tight sleeves. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay scoop sleeve length (58 cm), and put points A and N. Through points A and N right conduct horizontally line (Fig. 54).
Sleeve width. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the measure of the circumference of the hand plus 7 cm and put the point B.
AB = 29 + 7 = 36 cm
From the point In down perpendicular to the bottom line, the point of intersection with the bottom line indicate N.
The height of the top part of the sleeve. From point A down the line an lay 1/4 of the depth of the armhole of the back, plus 1 cm and put the point O.
AO = (19 : 4) x 3 + 1 = 15,4 cm
Through the point On the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line VN, the point of intersection represent A.
The line of the elbow. From point A down the line an lay the measure of the length of the arm to the elbow plus 2cm and put a point L. the Line OE divided into six equal parts, the points of division denote O, O, O, O and O. Through each point of division conduct a vertical line to the intersection with the line AB. The intersection points represent A, A, A, A and A.
From the point A up the line OA lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 1 cm and put a point A (15,4 : 3 - 1 = 4.1 cm).
From the point A down the line AO lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 2.2 cm and put a point A (15,4 : 3 and 2.2 = 2.9 cm).
From the point A down the line AO lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 1.7 cm and put a point A (15,4 : 3 and 1.7 = 3.4 cm).
From the point A up the line OA lay 1/6 of the height of the top part of the sleeves and put a point A (15,4 : 6 = 2.6 cm).
Line OE divided into three equal parts, the right point of division denote A.
Line of lifts the shoulders. Point On, A, A, A, A, A, A and A connect a smooth line.
The middle line of the sleeve. Line AO continue down. The point of intersection of this line with the line of the elbow represent L, with the bottom line - N. From the point N right on a horizontal line lay 2 cm and put a point N. Point N connect a straight line with a point L.
Line front cutoff sleeves. From the point N right on a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the measurements of the circumference of the wrist plus 2 - 3 cm (16 : 2 + 3 = 11 cm) and put a point N. Point N and O connect the dotted line. From the point of intersection of the dotted line and elbow aside 1 cm to the left and put a point L. Point L connect the straight lines with dots A and N.
Line the back of the cut sleeve. From the point N left upon the earth perpendicular to the line LN. From the point N on this line lay 1/2 of the measurements of the circumference of the wrist plus 2 - 3 cm and put a point N. From point L to the right along a horizontal line delay 2 - 2.5 cm and put a point L. Point L connect a straight line with a point O and the dashed line with the point N. The intersection of the dotted line represent N N.
Line elbow tuck. From the point L down on the dotted line delay value of the segment NN and put a point L. From the point L right on the elbow lay 5 - 6 cm and put a point L. Point L connect a straight line with a point L.
Cut LN divide in half, from the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.3 - 0.4 cm Obtained point connect a smooth line with points L and N.
Line the bottom of the sleeve should pass through the point N, N, N.
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