The drawing patterns such shirts (Fig. 147) must be removed following measurements (in cm):
Poluobhvat neck |
18 |
Shirt length |
65 |
Poluobhvat chest |
48 |
Sleeve length |
58 |
Back width. |
18 |
The circumference of the wrist |
16 |
Draw the pattern of the back and shelves. On the left side of a sheet of paper, departing 5 cm from the upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the shirt (65 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 148, a). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line.
The width of the shirt. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm and put the point B.
AB = 48 + 8 = 56 cm
From point To lowered perpendicular to the line of the bottom, the point of intersection denoted H1.
The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the measure of the width of the back plus 2,5 cm and put a point A1.
AA1 = 18 + and 2.5 = 20.5 cm.
, the Width of the openings. From the point A1 to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 2cm and put a point A2.
A1A2 = 48 : 4 + 2 = 14 cm.
Through the points A1 and A2 hold down vertical lines of arbitrary length.
The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point A3.
AA3 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see
Through the point A3 is carried up the vertical line on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.8 cm, and put a point A4.
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 0,8 = 2,6 cm
Angle АА3А4 divide in half, from point A3 at the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.3 cm and put a point A5.
А3А5 = 18 : 10 - 0,3 = 1,5 cm
Points A, A5, and A4 connect the smooth concave line.
The shoulder cut of the back. From point A1 down in a vertical line lay 2.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 1.5 cm - for high shoulders, 3.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. Using the point P and A4 hold a straight line, continue the line for the point P 1 cm and put a point P1.
The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm and put a point G
PG = 48 : 4 + 9 = 21 see
Through the point G spend a horizontal line to the intersection of the lines an and ВН1. The point of intersection with the line G1 of an outline, with the line of openings - G2 and line ВН1 - G3.
Cut the armhole of the back. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2cm and put a point P2.
ГП2 = GP : 3 + 2 = 21 : 3 + 2 = 9 see
Angle П2ГГ2 divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.8 cm and put a point P3.
ГП3 = 14 : 10 + 1,8 = 3.2 cm
Cut ГГ2 divide in half and put a point G4 (14 : 2 = 7 cm).
Points P1, P2, P3 and G4 connect a smooth concave line.
Slice the neck of the front. From the point G3 up lines ВН1 lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 1.5 cm and put the point B1.
HS = 48 : 2 + 2,5 = 26,5 cm
From a point G2 up on a vertical line delay segment equal to the segment Г3В1 (25.5 cm), and put a point B2. Points B1 and B2 connect by a straight line.
From the point B1 to the left on a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point B3.
В1В3 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see
point B1 down in a vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point Q4.
В1В4 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm.
Points B3 and B4 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half В3В4, point dividing the join the dotted line with the point B1. From the point B1 to the left of the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.8 cm and put a point B5.
В1В5 = 18 : 3 + 0,8 = 6,8, see
Point B3, B5, and B4 connect the smooth concave line.
The auxiliary lines of the cut of the armhole shelves. From the point of G2 up lines Г2В2 lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm and put a point P4.
Г2П4 = 48 : 4 + 7 = 19 see
point G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance Г2П4 and put a point P5.
Г2П5 = Г2П4 : 3 = 19 : 3 = 6,3 cm
Angle ГГ2П5 halve, from a point G2 on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.3 cm and put a point P6.
Г2П6 = 14 : 10 + 1,3 = 2.7 cm
Shoulder cut shelves. Point B3 is connected to the point P4. From the point B3 on this line lay the cut is equal to the segment А4П1 (drawing back), and put a point A7.
The cut of the armhole shelves. Point P7, P5, P6 and G4 connect a smooth concave line.
The side cut. From the point of G4 is lowered perpendicular to the line of bottom. The point of intersection with underline denote H2.
Line the bottom of the shirts. From the point H1 to the vertical line В1Н1 continue down to 1.5 cm and put a point H3. Points H3 and H2 connect a smooth line.
Line Board. From points B4 and N3 lay to the right 2 cm and connect the resulting points with straight lines.
Construction drawing of the pattern sleeve. On the left side spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the sleeve minus 2 cm (58 - 2 = 56 cm) and place points A and N (Fig. 148, b). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line.
Sleeve width. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest minus 2 cm and put a point In (48 - 2 = 46 cm). From the point In down perpendicular to the bottom line, the point of intersection with this line indicate H1.
The cut of the top part of the sleeve. From point A down the vertical line lay 1/2 the depth of the armhole of the back, plus 1 cm and put the point O.
AO = 21 : 2 + 1 = 11.5 cm
point On the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line ВН1, the intersection point of the outline O1.
The line AB is divided, the breaking point denoted A1. From point A1 down perpendicular to the bottom line. The point of intersection with the line OO1 O2 denote the point of intersection with the bottom line is - H2. Point O, A1 and A1 connect the dotted lines. Cut ОА1 divided in half, the breaking point denoted O3. Cut А1О1 divided into four equal parts, the points of division denoted O4, O5 and O6.
From point O3 raise up perpendicular to the line ОА1, which lay 1.8 cm and put a point O7. From the point O4 and they raise up perpendicular to the line А1О1, which lay 1.2 cm, and put a point A8. From the point A6 is lowered perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm and put a point E9. Point O, A7, A1, A8, A5, A9 and A1 connect a smooth line.
The side sections. From the point N to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/8 of the width of the sleeves and put a point H3. From the point H1 to the left lay 1/8 of the width of the sleeve and put a dot H4 (46 : 8 = 5.7 cm). Points N3 and N4 connect the straight lines with points O and O1.
Cut the bottom of the sleeves. Cut Н3Н2 divided in half, the dividing point of this line down, raise a perpendicular, on which lay a 1 cm Distance between the points H2 and H4 is divided in half, the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 see dots 1 and 1'. The point of the H3, 1 H2, 1', H4 connect a smooth line.
The incision for closure. From the point H3 to the right of the line Н₃1Н₂ lay 7 cm and put the point H5. Through the point H5 is carried up a vertical line with a length of 7 - 8 see
Construction drawing patterns collar (Fig. 148,). On the left side spend a vertical line, which lay 7 cm and put points A and N. Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line.
The length of the collar. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point A1 (18 + 1 = 19 cm). From point A1 down perpendicular to the bottom line, the point of intersection with this line indicate H1.
Line of departure. The line AA1 continue to the right by 1 - 2 cm and put a point A2. From point A down the vertical line delay of 2 cm and put a point A3. Points A2 and A3 connect the dotted line, the dotted line is divided in half, the dividing point down, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.5 cm the resulting point connect a smooth line with points A3 and A2. Point A2 connect a straight line with a point H1.
Stand width. From point N the line an continue down 3 inches and put a point of H2. Through the point H2 to the right spend a horizontal line.
Post length. Line НН1 continue to the right by 2 cm and put a point H3. From the point N3 is lowered to the lower perpendicular line, the point of intersection with which represent the H4.
Slice the rack. From the point H2 upward on a vertical line delay of 1.5 cm and put a point H5. From the point H4 to the left on a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point h6. From the point of the H4 up on a vertical line delay of 1.5 cm and put a dot H7. Dot H7 is connected to the point N1 smooth convex line. Point H7, h6 and H5 connect a smooth line.
Construction drawing pattern cuff. Spend a vertical straight line, on which lay 6 cm and put points A and N (Fig. 148, g). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line.
The width of the cuff. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat wrist plus 3 to 4 cm and put a point At (8 + 3 = 11 cm). From the point In down perpendicular to the bottom line, the point of intersection with this line indicate H1. From point N1 up on a vertical line and to the left along a horizontal line delay by 1.5 cm plotting points connect smooth concave line.
Layout and cutting. When cutting shirts all items are placed on a common thread on double-folded fabric. Detail of the pattern of the front is placed 0.5 cm from the edges, the middle of the back combined with the fold of the fabric. Add on the seam only on the shoulder cut of the back 0.5 cm Collar and cuffs and cut out a double gasket. Equity carve out a strap for treatment of the cut sleeve. The length of strips equal to the length of the cut plus 1 cm, the width of the laths equal to 3 cm neck shelves make podbot line identified in the drawing by a dotted line. To Walberto cut out the gasket.
Sewing. The shirt must button up from right to left. Podbot smatyvay with padding, folding them wrong side inside. Podbot impose face on the front side of the shirt, primetyvajut and pritachivajut at a distance of 0.5 cm from the slices. The gasket from the side seam cut out, podbot folded inside out on the edge of spawn, forming the edging from front detail with a width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm Edge priorivet. Then sew shoulder seams lapped seam on the front side, zaparivajut part of the back.
The lower collar is folded with the strip underside and inside smatyvay. The top collar is folded face inward with the lower collar and namachivajut it on the lower collar at a distance of 2 cm from the slice landing in the corners. Then
grind the collar, gasket side seam cut out, cut off excess fabric in corners and turn the collar on the front side. On the edge of the collar spawn, forming the edging of parts of the upper collar with a width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm, and priorivet.
The lower collar with the gasket umatyvaet and stachivaya into the neck of a shirt, making a line at a distance of 0.7 cm from the edge. Strip side seam carving, the seam folded in the direction of the collar. From the line of primaqiune collar from the sides make the notch. From nasechek sections of the boards to buckle inside out, cut a strip and sew hidden stitches.
Slice the top of the collar line stand that bends 0.5 cm, primetyvajut at neckline and pritachivajut on a small distance from the edge so that the line of vrachevanie the bottom of the collar to the neck was not visible.
The collar and Board are paving finishing line at a distance of 0.4 cm from the edge. Before vacati sleeve, it is necessary to process the closure sleeve. To the lower section of the closure sleeve facing to wrong primetyvajut and pritachivajut the bar at a distance of 0.4 cm from the edge, bend the bar in half, primetyvajut and pritachivajut to the first seam primaqiune was not visible.
To the upper section of the fastener sleeve pritachivajut the bar in the same way. Both straps folded inside out at the top prostrachivajut, clasp irons.
On the wrong side of the bottom of the gasket cuff is applied, the details metiaut, then placing the upper part of the cuff facing the front of the lower part of the cuff and smatyvay details on three sides, making the stitches at a distance of 1.5 - 2 cm from the slices. Then again pave the outline and a distance of 0.5 cm from the cutoff, Posiva the upper part of the cuff. The first line of smachivaniya parts were removed and the paving machine on the second line. The gasket from the side seam cut out, cut the corners, turn the cuff on the front side.On the edge of the cuff spawn, forming the edge of the top cuff with a width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm Cuff priorivet and pave otdelnuyu line at a distance of 0.4 cm from the edge.
At the upper edge of the sleeve lay 2 - 3 folds, the rest of the sleeves gather at the common thread stitches.
Sleeve umatyvaet and stachivaya in the open armhole lapped seam zaparivajut detail sleeves. The width of the lapped seam of 0.4 - 0.5 cm Smatyvay and then sew the side sections of the shirt and cuts the sleeves lapped seam zaparivajut part of the back.
The lower part of the cuff with the gasket primetyvajut and pritachivajut to the lower cutoff sleeve at a distance of 0.7 cm from the slices, laying side seam carving, the seam is folded in the cuff side. Section of the upper cuff buckle 0.5 cm, primetyvajut and pritachivajut on a small distance from the edge so that the line of vrachevanie the bottom of the cuffs were not visible. Paving finishing line at a distance of 0.4 cm from the edge.
Hem bottom of chemise, spawn loops, sew buttons, shirt irons.
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