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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Storm jacket with top tuck from the shoulder cut from a fabric with water-repellent impregnation

The drawing of the pattern for such a jacket (see Fig. 144, the figure in the center) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat neck  18 Back width.  18
Poluobhvat chest  48 The length of the jacket  70
Back length to the waist line  38 Sleeve length  58
Shoulder length  13,5    


 Draw the pattern of the back and shelves. On the left side of the sheet of paper back down 7 cm from upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the jacket (70 cm); and put points A and N (Fig. 146, a). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line.

 The width of the jacket. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 13 cm for loose fit and put a point B. 
AB = 48 + 13 = 61 see 
Through the point To spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection denoted H1. 

 Back length to the waist line. From point A down the line an lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 3 inches and put a point T (38 + 3 = 41 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line, the intersection of this line with the line ВН1 denote T1. 

 Back width. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the measure of the width of the back plus 4 cm and put a point A1.
AA1 = 18 + 4 = 22 cm 

 Width of the openings. From the point A1 to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 4.5 cm and put a point A2. 
A1A2 = 48 : 4 + 4,5 = 16,5 cm 
Through the points A1 and A2 hold the vertical line. 

 The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point A3. 
AA3 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm.
From point A3 raise the perpendicular on which from the point A3 postpone 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm, and put a point A4. 
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 1 = 2.8 cm 
Angle АА3А4 divide in half, from point A3 at the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.2 cm and set point A5. 
А3А5 = 18 : 10 - 0,2 = 1.6 cm 
Points A4, A5 And connect a smooth line. 

 The shoulder cut of the back. From point A1 down in a vertical line lay 2.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 1.5 cm - for high shoulders, 3.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. the Point A4 and the P connect a straight line on which the point A4-lay measure the shoulder length plus 2.5 cm (tuck), plus 1 cm (down the shoulder) and put a point P1. 
А4П1 = 13,5 + 2,5 + 1 = 17 see 

 the depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 11 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 11 = 23, see
Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection with the line an denote G1, with a line width of openings - G2 and line ВН1 - G3. 

 Cut the armhole of the back. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2cm and put a point P2. 
ГП2 = GP : 3 + 2 = 23 : 3 + 2 = 9,7 see 
Angle П2ГГ2 divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of the width of the armhole plus 2.3 cm and put a point P3. 
ГП3 = 16,5 : 10 + 2,3 = 4,0 cm 
Line ГГ2 divided in half, the breaking point denoted G4. Points P1, P2, P3, G4, connect a smooth line. 

 The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9 cm and put a point P4. 
Г2П4 = 48 : 4 + 9 = 21 cm 
From the point P4 to the left hold horizontal line on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest and put the point P5 (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). 
From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the line Г2П4 and put a point P6. 
Г2П6 = Г2П4 : 3 = 21 : 3 = 7 see 
the Points P5 and P6 connect the dotted line, dotted line, divide in half, from the points of division to the right, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 cm and put 1 point.
Angle ГГ2П6 halve, from a point G2 on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.7 cm and put a point A7. 
Г2П7 = 16,5 : 10 + 1,7 = 3,4, see 
Point P5, 1, P6, P7, G4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From the point G3 up lines H1B lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 5.5 cm and put the point B1. 
Г3В1 = 48 : 2 + 5,5 = 29.5 cm 
From the point of G2 up lines Г2А2 delay value of the segment Г3В1, and put a point B2. Points B1 and B2 connect by a straight line.
From the point B1 to the left of the line В1В2 lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point B3. 
В1В3 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7,5 cm 
From the point B1 down in a vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 3 inches and put a point Q4. 
В1В4 = 18 : 3 + 3 = 9, see 
Point B3 and B4 connect the dotted line, divide it in half, point dividing the join the dotted line with the point B1. From the point B1 to the left along the dotted line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2cm and put a point B5. 
В1В5 = 18 : 3 + 2 = 8 see 
Point B3, B5, B4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G3 to the left in horizontal lines lay the measure of center of the chest plus 1 cm and put a point G6 (with 9.5 + 1 = 10.5 cm). From the point G6 restore perpendicular to the line В1В2, the point of intersection with this line indicate B6. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point B6 down in a vertical line delay measurements height chest plus 1 cm and put a point G7 (27 + 1 = 28 cm). 

 Shoulder cut line tuck. From the point B6 down postpone 1 cm and put a point V7. Points B7 and B3 connect by a straight line. Points B7 and P5 connect the dotted line. From the point P5 to the right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of В3В7, minus 0.3 cm, plus 1 cm and put a point B8. 
П5В8 = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 + 1 = 11,2 see 
Point G7 and B8 connect with a straight line, the continuation of which from point lay G7 a value equal to the segment В7Г7, and put a point B9. Points B9 and A5 connect with a straight line. 

 Line of the side cut. From the point G to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the width of the armhole plus 1.5 cm and put a point G5 (16 : 3 + 1,5 = 6.8 cm). From the point G5 is lowered perpendicular to the line of the bottom, the point of intersection with the waist line and bottom indicate T2 and H2. 

 The waist line the shelves. From point T1 down in a vertical line delay of 1.5 cm and put a point T3. Point T3 connect a smooth line with the point T2. 

 The length of the jacket hem. From the point H1 to the vertical line continues down to 1.5 cm and put a point H3. Point N3 connecting a smooth line with the point H2. 

 Line side. From points B4 and H3 hold right horizontal line, on which lay 4 - 5 cm and put the points O and O1. Point O and O1 connect with a straight line. 

 Construction drawing of the pattern sleeve. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay scoop sleeve length plus 2 cm (58 + 2 = 60 cm) and place points A and N (Fig. 146, b). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 
From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the width of the openings (drawing backrest and shelves) multiplied by three and minus 3 cm, and put a point B. 
AB = 16.5 x 3 - 3 = 46.5 cm,
Through the point In spend a vertical line down. The point of intersection with the line of the bottom indicate H1. 

 The cut of the top part of the sleeve. From point A down the vertical line lay 3/4 of the depth of the armhole of the backrest (from the drawing) minus 1 cm and put the point O. 
AO = 23,2 : 4 x 3 - 1 = 16,4 cm
From the point On the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line ВН1. The intersection point of the outline O1. The line OO1 is divided into six equal parts, the points of division denoted O2, O3, O4, O5 and O6. Through each point of division conduct a vertical line to the intersection with the line AB. The point of intersection of these lines with the line AB represent. A1, A2, A3, A4 and A5.
From the point O2 up lines О2А1 lay 1/3 of the height of the top part minus 0.5 cm and put a point O7 (16,4 : 3 - 0,5 = 5 cm). From the point A2 down the line А2О3 lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 2.5 cm and put a point A8 (16,4 : 3 - 2,5 = 3 cm). From the point A4 down the line А4О5 lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 2.2 cm and put a point E9 (16,4 : 3 and 2.2 = 3.3 cm). From the point A6 up lines О6А5 lay 1/6 of the height of the sleeve crown plus 0.5 cm and put a point A10 (16,4 : 6 + 0,5 = 3.2 cm). Point O, O7, A8, A3, A9, A10, A11, connect a smooth line.
Line А3О4 continue downward, the point of intersection with underline denote H2. 

 The side sections and the bottom of the sleeves. From points H and H1 inside of the drawing set aside for 3 to 4 cm and put points N3 and N4. Points N3 and N4 connect the straight lines with points O and O1. 
The distance between points H3 and H2 is split, the dividing point is lowered down the perpendicular, on which lay a 1 cm Distance between the points H2 and H4 is divided in half, the dividing point upward raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 see dots 1 and 1'. The point of the H3, 1 H2, 1', H4 connect a smooth line. 

 Pockets. The location and size of patch pockets on the front and on the sleeve indicated in the figure. 

 Draw a pattern of the lower collar. Spend a horizontal line, on which lay a bushel of poluobhvat neck plus 3 inches and put points A and A1 (Fig. 146,). Through points A and A1 hold down the vertical line. 

 Width of lower collar. From point A down the vertical line delay of 10 cm and put the H-point. Through the point N to the right is carried out in a horizontal line, the intersection of this line with a vertical line going from point A1, denoted H1. 

 Line vrachevanie collar. From the point N up vertical lines lay 2 cm and put a point of H2. From the point H1 to the left on a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point H3. From point N1 up on a vertical line delay of 1.5 cm and put a point H4. The points N2, N3 and N4 connect a smooth line. 

 Line of departure of the collar. From point A up continue the line for 1 cm and put a point A2. From point A1 down vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point A3. From the point A3 to the right, hold the horizontal line on which lay 4 cm, and put a point A4. Points A2 and A4 connect a smooth line. The points A4 and H4 connect with a straight line.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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