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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Storm jacket without the top tuck the batting

The drawing of the pattern for such a jacket (see Fig. 144 the figure to the left) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat neck  18 Back width.  18
Poluobhvat chest  48 The length of the jacket  70
Back length to the waist line  38 Sleeve length  58


 Draw the pattern of the back and shelves. On the left side of a sheet of paper, departing 5 cm from the upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the jacket (70 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 145, a). Through points A and N right spend a horizontal line.

 The width of the jacket. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 14 cm and put the point B. 
AB = 48 + 14 = 62, see 
point To spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection denoted H1. 

 The waist line. From point A down the line an lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 3 inches and put a point T (38 + 3 = 41 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line ВН1, the point of intersection denoted T1. 

 Back width. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the measure of the width of the back plus 4.5 cm and put a point A1. 
AA1 = 18 + 4,5 = 22,5 cm 

 the Width of the openings. From the point A1 to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 4.5 cm and put a point A2. 
A1A2 = 48 : 4 + 4,5 = 16,5 cm 
Through the points A1 and A2 hold the vertical line. 

 The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.8 cm and put a point A3. 
AA3 = 18 : 3 + 1,8 = 7,8 cm
From point A3 raise the perpendicular on which from the point A3 postpone 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm, and put a point A4. 
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 1 = 2.8 cm 
Angle АА3А4 divide in half, from point A3 at the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.2 cm and set point A5. 
А3А5 = 18 : 10 - 0,2 = 1.6 cm
Points A4, A5 And connect a smooth concave line. 

 Shoulder cut. From point A1 down in a vertical line lay 2.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 1.5 cm - for high shoulders, 3.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. the Point A4 and the P connect a straight line, continue this line 2 cm to the right and put a point P1. 

 The depth of the armhole. From the point P down the line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 11 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 11 = 23 see 
Via the left and right spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection with the line an denote G1, with a line width of openings - G2 and line ВН1 - G3. 

 Cut the armhole of the backrest. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2cm and put a point P2. 
ГП2 = 23 : 3 + 2 = 9,7 cm 
Angle П2ГГ2 divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 2.3 cm and put a point P3. 
ГП3 = 16 : 10 + 2,3 = 3.9 cm, 
Cut ГГ2 divided in half, the breaking point denoted G4. 
Points P1, P2, P3 and G4 connect a smooth line. 

 The auxiliary line side cut. Through the point G4 spend a vertical line down the point of intersection of this line with the line of the waist and bottom indicate T2 and H2. 

 A medium cut backless. From the point N to the right of the line НН1 lay 2 cm and put a point H3. Point and H3 And connect with a straight line. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From the point G3 up on a vertical line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 4.5 cm and put the point B1. 
Г3В1 = 48 : 2 + 4,5 = 28.5 cm. 
From the point of G2 up on a vertical line delay segment equal to the segment Г3В1, and put a point B2. Points B1 and B2 connect by a straight line. 
From the point B1 to the left on a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.8 cm and put a point B3. 
В1В3 = 18 : 3 + 1,8 = 7,8 cm
From point B1 down in a vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 3 inches and put a point Q4. 
В1В4 = 18 : 3 + 3 = 9, see 
Point B3 and B4 connect the dotted line, divide the segment in half В3В4, point dividing the join the dotted line with the point B1. From point B1 on the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2cm and put a point B5. 
В1В5 = 18 : 3 + 2 = 8 see 
Point B3, B5, B4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The shoulder cut shelves. From the point of G2 up lines Г2А2 lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9 cm and put a point P4. 
Г2П4 = 48 : 4 + 9 = 21 see
The point of B3 and A4 connect with a straight line. From the point B3 on the line delay value of the segment А4П1 minus 0.5 cm and put a point P5. 

 The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance Г2П4 and put a point P6. 
Г2П6 = Г2П4 : 3 = 21 : 3 = 7 cm 
Angle Г4Г2П6 halve, from a point G2 on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.6 cm and put a point A7. 
Г2П7 = 16 : 10 + 1,6 = 3,2 see 
the Point P5, P6, P7 and G4 connect a smooth line. 

 The waist line shelves. From point T1 down in a vertical line lay 2 cm and put a point T4. Points T4 and T2 connect a smooth line. 

 Line the bottom of the shelves. A vertical line В1Н1 continue down. From the point H1 down the line lay 2 cm and put a point H4. Points H4 and H2 connect a smooth line. 

 Line cutting coquette. From the point B3 to the left at the shoulder cut lay 6 cm and put a point K. From point G3 down on a vertical line lay 4 cm and put a point K1. From the point K1 to the left and right spend a horizontal line. From the point K1 to the left on a horizontal line lay 10 - 12 cm and put a point K2. Point To the K2 and connect a straight line. From points B4 and K1 to the right lay 2.5 - 3 cm and put the points K3 and K4. The points K3 and K4 connect with a straight line. 

 The back to the waist line tailor double. From T point to the right waist lay 14 - 16 cm and put a point T5. Points T5 and L2 connect the dotted line.

 Construction drawing of the pattern sleeve. On the left side of the sheet carried out of the vertical line, which lay scoop sleeve length plus 2 cm (58 + 2 = 60 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 145, b). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 Sleeve width. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest (48 cm) and put the point B. Through the point In spend a vertical line down the point of intersection of this line with the line of the bottom indicate H1. 

 The cut of the top part of the sleeve. From point A down the line an lay 1/2 armhole depth minus 0.5 cm and put the point O.
AO = 23 : 2 - 0,5 = 11 see 
the dot On the right spend a horizontal line, the intersection of this line with the line ВН1 denote O1. The line AB is divided, the breaking point denoted A1. Through the point A1 spend a vertical line, the point of its intersection with the line of the top part of the sleeves and the bottom line denotes O2 and H2.
Point O, A1 and A1 connect the dotted lines. The dotted line between points O and A1 is divided, the breaking point denoted O3. The dotted line between the points A1 and O1 are divided into four equal parts, the points of division denoted O4, O5, O6. From point O3 raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1.7 cm and put a point O7. From the point O4, raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 cm and put a point A8. From the point A6 is lowered perpendicular on which from the point A6 postpone 0.7 cm and put a point E9. Point O, A7, A1, A8, A5, A9 and A1 connect a smooth line. 

 The side sections of the sleeve. From point N lay to the right 1/8 of the width of the sleeve at the level of the top part and put a point H3 (48 : 8 = 6 cm). The same amount aside from the point H1 to the left and put a point H4. Points N3 and N4 connect the straight lines with points O and O1. 

 Cut the bottom of the sleeves. The distance between the points H3, H2 is split, the dividing point down a perpendicular, on which lay a 1 cm Distance between the points H2 and H4 is divided in half, the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1 see plotting points connect smooth lines with the points H3, H2 and H4.

In Fig. 145 shows a pattern of the hood with all the dimensions needed to construct it. The pattern was given in a reduced form.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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