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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Summer coat with cap sleeves and a tapered gusset

To build a drawing pattern of this coat (Fig. 166) must be removed following measurements (in cm):
 

Poluobhvat neck  18 Back width.  18
Poluobhvat chest  48 Shoulder length  13,5
Back length to the waist line  38 Length coat  104
Front length to the waist line  43 Sleeve length  58
Breast height  27 Sleeve length to elbow  32
The center of the chest  9,5    


 A preliminary calculation. Before the creation of the drawing pattern, to make a preliminary calculation.

 The width of the coat at the chest line is equal to the measure of poluobhvat chest, plus 10 cm for loose fit (48 + 10 = 58 cm).

 Back width is equal to the measure of the width of the back plus 4 cm (18 + 4 = 22 cm).

 The width of the openings is 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest, plus a 2.5 cm (48 : 4 + 2,5 = 14.5 cm).

 Shelves width equal to the width of the coat at the chest line minus the width of back and width of the armhole (58 - 21 - 14,5 = 22.5 cm).

 Construction drawing of the back. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the coat (104 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 167). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line.

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line delay 21 cm (according to preliminary calculation) and put a point A1. Through the point А1проводят vertical line.

 The cut of the neck. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point A3.
AA3 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see
For shapes with fatty deposits in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra the width of the neck increased by 0.5 cm Through the point A3 is carried out a vertical line on which the point A3 up delay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm, and put a point A4.
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 1,5 = 3,3 cm
Angle АА3А4 divide in half, from point A3 at the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.2 cm and set point A5.
А3А5 = 18 : 10 + 0,2 = 2 cm.
The points A4, A5 and connect A smooth concave line.

 Shoulder cut.From point A1 down in a vertical line lay 1.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 0.5 cm for the upper shoulder, 2.5 cm, for shoulders and put a point P. Through the points A4 and P spend a straight line on which the point A4-lay measure the shoulder length plus 1.6 - 2 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 - 1 cm on the landing and put a point P1.
А4П1 = 13,5 + 2 + 0,5 = 16 cm

 Construction Darts from the shoulder cut of the back , see Fig. 196 in the section "Simulation".

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest, plus 10 cm and put a point G.
PG = 48 : 4 + 10 = 22 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 10.5 cm (48 : 4 + 10,5 = 22.5 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9.5 cm (48 : 4 + 9,5 = 21.5 cm).
Through the point G to the left, spend a horizontal line to the intersection with line EN, the intersection point denoted G1. From the point G to the right is carried out a horizontal line of arbitrary length.

 The width of the openings. From the point G to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point G2 (14,5 : 2 = 7,25 cm). Through point G2 spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection denoted H1.

 The waist line. From point A down the line an lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 1 cm and put a point T (38 + 1 = 39 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line Г2Н1. The point of intersection denoted T1.

 The hips. From point T down on a vertical line lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line Г2Н1. The point of intersection denoted B1.

 The middle line of the back. Coat of a straight silhouette with solid or split back line mid-back passes through the point A and T2, the value of cut ТТ2 equal to 0.8 - 1 see Points A and T2 connect by a straight line and continue it to the bottom line. The point of intersection of this line with the line of the hips and bottom denote B2 and H2. The waist, hips and bottom must be perpendicular to the line AT2.

 The upper section of the sleeve. Line А4П continue to the right. From the point P1 on this line lay right scoop sleeve length (58 cm) and put a point P2. From point P1 with a radius equal to the segment П1П2, conduct the arc. From the point A2 down in an arc lay 1/4 measurements length sleeves plus 5 cm and put a point P3 (58 : 4 + 5 = 19.5 cm). Points P3 and P1, connect a smooth line.

 Cut the bottom of the sleeves. Point from L3 down upon the earth perpendicular to the line П1П3 on which lay the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the model (16 cm), and put a point P4.

 Line podraza sleeves. From the point G to the right along a horizontal line lay 2 cm and put a point G3. From the point G2 down on a vertical line 1/8 delay measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 0.5 cm and put a point G4 (48 : 8 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm). Points G3 and G4 connect with a straight line.

 The lower section of the sleeve. The point G4 and P4 connect the dotted line. From a point G3 on the line Г4П4 make a notch with a radius of 16 cm and put a point G5. Point G5 G3 and connect a straight line.

 Line elbow. From the point P1 at the line П1П3 delay measurements length sleeves to the elbow plus 2cm and put a point L (32 + 2 = 34 cm). From point L down upon the earth perpendicular to the line П1П3 to the intersection with the line Г4П4, the point of intersection denoted L1.

 Line tuck. From the point L1 to the left and right delay to 0.7 cm and dots L2 and L3. From the point L1 up lines Л1Л lay 6 cm and put the point L4. Point L4 connect the straight lines with points L3 and L2.

 Side cut. From the point H1 to the right hold horizontal line on which lay the amount of cut НН2, and put a point H3. The point G4 and H3 connect the straight line points of intersection with the line of the waist and hips represent the T3 and B3.

 Construction drawing of the shelves. On the right side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the coat, plus 5 cm (104 + 5 = 109 cm) and put the points In and N (Fig. 168, a). Through the points and H to the left, hold the horizontal line.

 The depth of the armholeFrom a point down the line BH lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat breast plus 3 inches and put a point G.
SH = 48 : 2 + 3 = 27 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 2 cm (48 : 2 + 2 = 26 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 4 cm (48 : 2 + 4 = 28 cm). Through the point G to the left, spend a horizontal line.

 The width of the shelves. From a point to the left along a horizontal line lay the measure of the width of the front (on a preliminary calculation) and put a point A. Through point And spend a vertical line down to the intersection with the line of the chest, the point of intersection denoted G1.

 The width of the openings. From the point G1 to the left on a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the measurements of the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) and put a point G2 (14,5 : 2 = 7,25 cm). Through point G2 spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line, the point of intersection denoted H1.

 The waist line the shelves. From a point down the line BH postpone the measure of the length of the front to the waist plus 1 cm and put a point T (43 + 1 = 44 cm). From the point G2 down the vertical lines of the delay value of the segment Г2Т3 (drawing back) and put the point T1. T point T1 and connect a smooth line.

 The hips. From points T and T1 lay down 1/2 the measurements of the length of the back to the waist line and put point B and B1 (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Points B and B1 connect a smooth line.

 Line the bottom of the coat. From point B1 lay down the amount of cut Б3Н4 (drawing back) and put a point of H2. The points N2 and N, connect a smooth line.

 Slice the neck of the front. From a point to the left of the line ISLANDS lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put the point B1.
BB1 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see
From a point down the line BH lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2cm and put a point B2.
BB2 = 18 : 3 + 2 = 8 cm.
Points B1 and B2 connect the dotted line, divide this line in half, point dividing the join the dotted line with point B. From point b on this line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point B3.
ВВ3 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm.
Points B1, B3, B2 connect a smooth concave line.

 The center of the chest. From the point G to the left on the line ГГ2 lay the measure of the distance between the protruding points of the chest plus 1 cm and put a point G3 (at 9.5 + 1 = 10.5 cm). Through the point G3 spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line VA, the point of intersection represent V4.

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point B4 down in a vertical line delaying the measure height of the breast (27 cm) and put a point G4.

 Shoulder cut line tuck. From the point B4 down in a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point B5. Points B5 and B1 connect by a straight line. From the point G1 up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm and put a point P.
Г1П = 48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm (48 : 4 + 7 = 19 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8 cm (48 : 4 + 8 = 20 cm).
Through the point P to the left carried out a horizontal line on which the point P lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest and put a point P1 (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). Points P1 and B5 connect the dotted line. From the point P1 to the right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of В1В5, minus 0.3 cm and put a point P2.
П1П2 = 13,5 - 3 - 0,3 = 10,2 cm

 Line tuck. The point G4 and A2 connect in a straight line. From the point G4 on this line lay the cut is equal to the right side of the tuck В5Г4, and put a point P3.

 The shoulder cut and the upper cut sleeve. Connect the point P3 by a straight line with point P1 and continue this line to the left from the point P1 on the value of measurements sleeve length (58 cm) and put a point P4. From point P1 with a radius equal to the segment П1П4, conduct the arc. From point P4, in an arc down lay 1/4 measurements length sleeves and put a point P5 (58 : 4 = 14.5 cm). Point P5 connect a straight line from point P1.

 Cut the bottom of the sleeves. From the point P5 to the right raise up perpendicular to the line П5П1, which lay from the point P5 down the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the model (16 cm), and put a point P6.

 Line podraza sleeves. From the point G1 to the left lay 2 cm and put a point G5. From the point G2 down on a vertical line 1/8 delay measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 0.5 cm and put a point G6 (48 : 8 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm). Point G5 and G6 connect with a straight line.

 The lower section of the sleeve. Point P6 G6 and connect with a straight line. From the point G6 on the line Г6П6 lay cut Г4П4 (drawing back) minus the value of the solution tucks at the elbow and put a point A7.
From a point G5 on the line Г6П7 make a notch with a radius equal to the segment Г3Г5 (drawing patterns of the back), and put a point G7. Point G7 and G5 connect with a straight line.

 Cut the bottom of the sleeves. Points P7 and P5 connect with a straight line.

 The side cut. From the point of H2 continue to underline to the left by 2 cm and put a point H3. Points H3 and G6 connect with a straight line.

 Construction drawing of the pattern gussets. Build two mutually perpendicular lines, point of intersection denoted by letter G (Fig. 168, b). From the point G to the left and right on a horizontal line lay 1/2 of the width of the openings (preliminary calculation) minus 2 cm and put points G1 and G2 (14,5 : 2 - 2 = 5,25 cm). From the point G1 to make the tick on vertical line upwards with a radius equal to the distance Г3Г4 (with a drawing of the back, see Fig. 167), and down with a radius equal to the distance Г3Г5 (drawing back). The resulting points are linked by straight lines.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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