Wednesday, 01.05.2024, 19:36
Welcome Guest | Sign Up | Log In

All about sewing

Site menu


Section categories
Sew yourself
The ABCs of sewing
Women's clothing
Sewing for little
Designing men's outerwear
Cutting tailoring modeling women's lightweight clothing
Cutting and sewing of women clothes
Technology women's and children's light clothing
Technology of sewing production
Women's and children's dress
A hundred styles of women's dresses
Fashion tops
The basics of the art of designing clothes
Design basics clothing
Modeling and design artwork for women's and children's clothing
The manufacture of men's and children's costumes
Manufacturer of women's and children's outerwear
Art beautiful dress
According to the laws of beauty
The art of sewing
Design women's coat
Design basics outerwear
National clothes
Search
Log In
Site friends
Statistics

Total online: 1
Guests: 1
Users: 0

Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Summer coat with set-in sleeves

The drawing of the pattern of this coat (Fig. 163 figure on the right) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat neck  18 Back width.  18
Poluobhvat chest  48 Shoulder length  13,5
Back length to the waist line  38 Length coat  106
Front length to the waist line  43 Sleeve length  58
Breast height  27 Sleeve length to elbow  32
The center of the chest  9,5    


 Construction drawing backrest and shelves. On the left side of a sheet of paper, retreating 10 cm from the upper edge, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the coat (106 cm), and put points A and N (Fig. 164). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 The width of the coat. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 9 cm and put the point B. 
AB = 48 + 9 = 57, see 
Through the point To spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line and put the point H1. 

 Back length to the waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay the measure of the length of the coat to the waist line plus 1 cm and put a point T (38 + 1 = 39 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line ВН1. The point of intersection denoted T1. 

 Line of the hips. From T point down the line an lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through point B to the right is carried out in a horizontal line, the point of intersection with the line ВН1 denote B1. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the measure of the width of the back plus 2.7 cm and put a point A1.
AA1 = 18 + 2,7 = 20,7 cm 

 the Width of the openings. From the point A1 to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 2cm and put a point A2. 
A1A2 = 48 : 4 + 2 = 14 see 
Through the points A1 and A2 is carried out vertical lines down. 

 The cut of the neckline backless. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point A3. 
AA3 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see
For shapes with fatty deposits in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra the width of the neck increased by 0.5 cm Through the point A3 up spend a vertical line, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm, and put a point A4. 
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 1 = 2.8 cm 
Angle АА3А4 divide in half, from point A3 at the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck minus 0.2 cm and set point A5. 
А3А5 = 18 : 10 - 0,2 = 1.6 cm 
Points A4, A5, And connect,a smooth concave line. 

 Shoulder cut. From point A1 down vertical line delay of 2.5 cm for normal shoulder length, 1.5 cm for the high shoulders, 3.5 cm for the shoulders and put a point P. the Point A4 and the P connect a straight line on which the point A4-lay measure the shoulder length plus 1.6 - 2 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 - 0.8 cm for planting and put a point P1. 
А4П1 = 13,5 + 2 + 0,5 = 16 cm 

 Construction Darts from the shoulder cut of the back , see Fig. 196 in the section "Simulation"

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 9 = 21 see
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9.5 cm (48 : 4 + 9,5 = 21.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8.5 cm (48 : 4 + 8,5 = 20.5 cm). 
Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line. The intersection of this line and EN denote G1, with a line width of openings - G2 and line ВН1 - G3. 

 Cut the armhole of the back. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2cm and put a point P2. 
ГП2 = GP : 3 + 2 = 21 : 3 + 2 = 9 see
Angle П2ГГ2 divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.7 cm and put a point P3. 
ГП3 = ГГ2 : 10 + 1,7 = 14 : 10 + 1,7 = 3,1 see 
Cut ГГ2 divide in half and put a point G4. Points P1, P2, P3, G4, connect a smooth line. 

 The middle line of the back. Coat of a straight silhouette with a split back or line the middle of the back passes through the point A and T2, the magnitude of the cut ТТ2 equal to 0.5 - 1 cm of the Point A and T2 connect by a straight line and continue it to the bottom line. The point of intersection with the lines of the hips and bottom denote B2 and H2. The waist, hips and bottom must be perpendicular to the line AT2. 

 Side cut. From the point G to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the width of the openings, and put a point G5 (14 : 3 = 4.7 cm). Through the point G5 spend a vertical line to the intersection with the line of the bottom coat, the point of intersection with the lines of the waist, hips and bottom denote T3, B3, H3. Through the point G5 spend a vertical line to the line of openings, and put a point G6. From the point H3 to the right lay the cut НН2 and put a point H4. Through G6, and H4 hold the line of the side cut back, the point of intersection with the lines of her waist and hips represent the T4 and B4. 

 The cut of the armhole shelves. From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7 cm and put a point P4. 
Г2П4 = 48 : 4 + 7 = 19 see 
For hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6.5 cm (48 : 4 + 6,5 = 18.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 7.5 cm (48 : 4 + 7,5 = 19,5 cm). 
Through the point P4 to the left hold horizontal line on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P5 (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). 
From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/3 cut Г2П4 and put a point P6.
Г2П6 = Г2П4 : 3 = 19 : 3 = 6,3 cm 
Points P5 and P6 connect the dotted line, divide this line in half, from the points of division at right angles to the dotted lines to the right postpone 1 cm and put 1 point. Angle П6Г2Г4 halve, from a point G2 on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 of the width of the armhole plus 1.1 cm and put a point A7. 
Г2П7 = ГГ2 : 10 + 1,1 = 14 : 10 + 1,1 = 2,5 see 
Point P5, 1, P6, P7, G4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The cut of the neckline shelves. From the point G3 up on a vertical line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 3.5 cm and put the point B1. 
Г3В1 = 48 : 2 + 3,5 = 27,5 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest, plus a 2.5 cm (48 : 2 + 2,5 = 26.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 4.5 cm (48 : 2 + 4,5 = 28.5 cm). 
From the point of G2 up lines Г2А2 delay value of the segment Г3В1 and put a point B2. Points B1 and B2 connect by a straight line. 
From the point B1 to the left of the line В1В2 lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point B3. 
В1В3 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see 
point B1 down the line В1Н1 lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.5 cm and put a point Q4. 
В1В4 = 18 : 3 + 2,5 = 8,5 see
Points B3 and B4 connect the dotted line, the dotted line is divided in half, the point dividing the join the dotted line with the point B1. From point B1 on the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.5 cm and put a point B5. 
В1В5 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7,5 see 
Point B3, B5, B4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From point G3 along the line Г3Г to the left lay the measure of center of the chest plus 1 cm and put a point G7 (the 9.5 + 1 = 10.5 cm). 
Through the point G7 spend a vertical line, the intersection of this line with the line В1В2 represent B6. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point B6 lay down the measure of the height of the breast (27 cm) and put a point G8. 

 Shoulder cut line tuck. From the point B6 down in a vertical line postpone 1 cm and put a point V7. Points B7 and B3 connect by a straight line. Points B7 and P5 connect the dotted line. From the point P5 to the right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of В3В7, minus 0.3 cm and put a point B8. 
П5В8 = 13,5 - 3,5 - 0,3 = 9,7 cm 
Point G8 and B8 connect with a straight line, the continuation of which point G8 postpone Г8В7 value of the segment and put a point B9. Points B9 and A5 connect with a straight line.

 The waist line the shelves. From point B1 down in a vertical line lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist plus 1 cm and put a point T5 (43 + 1 = 44 cm). Points T5 and T3 connect a smooth line. 

 The hips of the shelves. From point B1 down in a vertical line delay value of the segment Т1Т5 and put a point B5. Point B5 and B3 that connect a smooth line. 

 Line the bottom of the shelves. Line В1Н1 continue down. From the point H1 down the line delay value of the segment Т1Т5 and put a point H5. Point N5 and N3 connect a smooth line. 

 Line side. From points B4 and N5 hold right horizontal line, which lay at 2.5 cm and connect the resulting points with a straight line. 

 Line pockets. Line В6Г7 continue to the waist line and put a point T6. From the point T6 to the left at the waist lay 3 cm and put a point T7. Through point T7 down, spend a vertical line to the hip line, parallel lines В1Н1. From the point T7 down the line lay 4 cm and put the point T8. From the point T8 down the line lay 14 cm and put a point T9. From the point T9 to the left hold horizontal line on which lay 8 cm, and put a point T10. Points T10 and T8 connect with a straight line. 

 Construction drawing of the lower collar. After the neck of the product will sutygina, it is measured. Then the drawing is carried out in a horizontal line, on which lay the length measured neck minus 1 cm, and put points A and b (Fig. 165, a). Through the points A and b is carried out a vertical line down. 

 Width of lower collar. From point A down the vertical line lay the width of the collar 8 cm and put the H-point. Through the point N to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with a vertical line going from point V. the Point of intersection denoted H1. 

 Line vrachevanie. From the point N up vertical lines lay 2 cm and put a point of H2. From the point H1 to the left lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point H3. From point N1 up vertical lines lay 2 cm and put a point H4. Then point H4, H3, H2 connect a smooth line. 

 The line of departure. Line TO continue up to 2 cm and put a point A1. AB line, continue to the right by 2 cm and put the point B1. 
The points A1 and B1 connect a smooth line. Points B1 and H4 connect with a straight line. 

 The middle line of the collar. From point A1 line В1А1 continue to the left by 1 cm and put a point A2, which connect a straight line with a point of H2. 

 Construction drawing patterns double seam of the sleeve. On the left side of the sheet of paper, spend a vertical line, on which lay scoop sleeve length (58 cm) and place points A and N (Fig. 165, b). Through points A and H to the right, hold the horizontal line. 

 Sleeve width. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay the width of the openings (drawing backrest and shelves) multiplied by three, minus 3 inches and put a point B. 
AB = ГГ2 x 3 - 3 = 14 x 3 - 3 = 39 cm.
Through the point In spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line. The point of intersection denoted H1. 

 The height of the top part of the sleeve. From point A down the line an lay 1/4 of the depth of the armhole of the back and put the point O. 
AO = PG : 4 x 3 = 21 4 x 3 = 15,9 cm 
Through the point On the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line ВН1, the intersection point of the outline O1. 

 The line of the elbow. From point A down the line an lay scoop length sleeves to the elbow plus 2cm and put a point L (32 + 2 = 34 cm). Through the point L, hold right horizontal line. The point of intersection with the line L1 represent ВН1.

 Auxiliary lines okata sleeves. The line OO1 is divided into six equal parts. The points of division denoted O2, O3, O4, O5, O6. From each point of division upon the earth perpendicular to the line OO1 to the intersection with the line AB. The point of intersection with the line AB denoted A1, A2, A3, A4, A5. From the point O2 up lines О2А1 lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 1 cm and put a point A6 (15,9 : 3 - 1 = 4.3 cm). From the point A2 down the line А2О3 lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 2.5 cm and put a point A7 (15,9 : 3 - 2,5 = 2.8 cm).From the point A4 down the line А4О5 lay 1/3 of the height of the top part of the sleeve minus 2 cm and put a point A8 (15,9 : 3 - 2 = 3.3 cm). From the point A6 up lines О6А5 lay 1/6 of the height of the top part of the sleeves and put a point A9 (15,9 : 6 = 2.7 cm). Point O, A6, A7, A3, A8, A9 and A1~ connect a smooth line.

 The middle line of the sleeve. Line А3О4 continue down. The point of intersection with the lower line denoted N2, with the line of the elbow L2. From the point D2 to the right lay 2 cm and put a point H3. Points H3 and L2 connect with a straight line. 

 Line front cutoff sleeves. From the point H3 to the right lay the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the model (14 cm) and put a point H4. Points H4 and O1 connect the dotted line. From the point of intersection of the dotted line and the elbow to the left postpone 1 cm and put 1 point. From H4 point up along the dotted line lay 2 cm, put a dot 2. Points O1, 1 and 2 connect a smooth line.

 Line front roll. From the point H4 to the left lay the value of the cut О6О1 and put a point H5. Point N5 and O6 connect the dotted line. From the point H5 on the dotted line up aside 1 cm, put a dot 2'. 

 Line elbow cut sleeves. From point L to the right along a horizontal line lay 2 cm, put a point L3 which connect a straight line with a point O. From a point H3 to the left lay the width of the sleeve at the bottom of the model (14 cm) and put a dot H7. Point H7 and H2 connect a smooth line. 

 Line elbow tuck. From point C3 down the line lay 2 cm and put a point L4. From the point L3 to the right on the elbow lay 5 - 6 cm and put the point L5. Points L3, L4 and L5 connect the straight lines. 

 Line the bottom of the sleeves. Point H7, H2, 2', 2 connect a smooth line.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
Views: 336 | Rating: 0.0/0

Total comments: 0
avatar