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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

Summer jumpsuit with flared trousers

The drawing of the pattern of this Romper (Fig. 127) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat neck  18 The center of the chest  9,5
Poluobhvat chest  48 Length jumpsuit  138
Poluobhvat hips  53 Sleeve length  25
Back length to the waist line  38 Girth hands  29
Front length to the waist line  43 Seat height  28
Back width.  18 Knee length  59
Shoulder length  13,5 Poluobhvat knee  18
Breast height  27    


 The creation of the drawing pattern of the front and back halves of the suit. On the left side of a sheet of paper, 7 cm from the upper edge and 15 inches from the left of the cut, spend a vertical line, on which lay the measure of the length of the Romper plus 2 cm, and put points A and N (138 + 2 = 140 cm). Through points A and N right spend a horizontal line (Fig. 128). 

 The width of the Romper. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay a bushel of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm free customized fit and put a point B. 
AB = 48 + 5 = 53 cm.
Through the point In spend a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom line. The point of intersection denoted H1. 

 Back length to the waist line. From point A down the vertical line lay measure the length of the back to the waist line plus 3 inches and put a point T (38 + 3 = 41 cm). Through the point T right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line ВН1, the point of intersection denoted T1. 

 Line step. From T point down the line an lay measurements seat height plus 3 inches and put a point sh. 
TS = 28 + 3 = 31 see
Through point W to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line ВН1, the point of intersection represent SH1. 

 Line of the hips. Point W up the vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements seat height + 2 cm and put B. 
SB = 28 : 3 + 2 = 11,3 cm 
Through point B to the right spend a horizontal line to the intersection with the line ВН1, the intersection point denoted B1. 

 A line knee length. From T point down the line an lay scoop knee-length plus 1 cm and put the point To (59 + 1 = 60 cm). From the right point To hold the horizontal line to the intersection with the line ВН1, the point of intersection denoted K1. 

 The width of the backrest. From point A to the right of the line AB lay the measure of the width of the back plus 1.5 cm and put the point A1. 
AA1 = 18 a 1.5 = 19.5 cm 

 Width of the openings. From the point A1 to the right of the line AB lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 0.7 cm and put a point A2. 
A1A2 = 48 : 4 + 0,7 = 12,7 cm 
Through the points A1 and A2 hold down the vertical line. 

 Cut neck backless. From point A to the right along a horizontal line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point A3. 
AA3 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see 
From point A3 raise a perpendicular, on which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2cm and put a point A4. 
А3А4 = 18 : 10 + 2 = 3.8 cm 
Angle АА3А4 divide in half, from point A3 at the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 0.8 cm and put a point A5. 
А3А5 = 18 : 10 + 0,8 = 2.6 cm 
From the point A vertical line an continue up to 1 cm and put a point A0. The points A4, A5, A0 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The shoulder cut of the back. From point A1 down in a vertical line lay 1.5 cm - for normal shoulder length, 0.5 cm for the upper shoulder, 2.5 cm, for shoulders and put a point P. the Point A4 and the P connect a straight line, on which lay the measure the shoulder length plus 1.6 - 2 cm for the tuck, plus 0.5 cm (for landing), and put a point P1. 
А4П1 = 13,5 + 1,6 + 0,5 = 15,6 cm 

 Build Darts from the shoulder cut of the back , see Fig. 196 in the section "Simulation"

 The depth of the armhole. From point P downwards in a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9 cm and put a point G 
PG = 48 : 4 + 9 = 21 see
To hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 9.5 cm (48 : 4 + 9,5 = 21.5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 8.5 cm (48 : 4 + 8,5 = 20.5 cm). 
Through the point G to the left and right spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection with the line an denote G1, with a line width of openings - G2 and line ВН1 - G3. 

 Cut the armhole of the back. From point G up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the distance PG plus 2cm and put a point P2. 
ГП2 = GP : 3 + 2 = 21 : 3 + 2 = 9 see
Angle П2ГГ2 divide in half, from point G on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of the width of the armhole plus 1.5 cm and put a point P3. 
ГП3 = 12,7 : 10 + 1,5 = 2.8 cm 
Line ГГ2 divided in half, the breaking point denoted G4. Points P1, P2, P3, G4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 Cut the armhole of the front. From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6cm and put a point P4. 
Г2П4 = 48 : 4 + 6 = 18 cm 
For the hunched figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 5 cm (48 : 4 + 5,5 = 17.5 cm).
For pereghibati figures lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat chest plus 6.5 cm (48 : 4 + 6,5 = 18.5 cm). 
From point P4 hold the left horizontal line, which lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat chest, and put a point P5 (48 : 10 = 4.8 cm). From the point of G2 up on a vertical line lay 1/3 of the line Г2П4 and put a point P6. 
Г2П6 = Г2П4 : 3 = 18 : 3 = 6 cm.
Points P5 and P6 connect a dotted line to divide a dotted line between these points in half, from the dividing point raise a perpendicular, on which lay right 1 cm, and put a point 1. Angle Г4Г2П6 halve, from a point G2 on the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of the width of the armhole plus 0.8 cm and put a point A7. 
Г2П7 = 12,7 : 10 + 0,8 = 2,1 see 
the Point P5, 1, P6, P7, G4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 Slice the neck of the front. From the point G3 up lines H1B lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest, plus a 2.5 cm and put the point B1. 
Г3В1 = 48 : 2 + 2,5 = 26,5 cm
To hunched figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest, plus 1.5 cm (48 : 2 + 1,5 = 25,5 cm). 
For pereghibati figures lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat chest plus 3.5 cm (48 : 2 a + 3.5 = 27.5 cm). 
From the point of G2 up lines Г2А2 delay value of the segment Г3В1, and put a point B2. Points B1 and B2 connect by a straight line. 
From the point B1 to the left of the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1 cm and put a point B3. 
В1В3 = 18 : 3 + 1 = 7, see 
point B1 down in a vertical line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 2.5 cm and put a point Q4. 
В1В5 = 18 : 3 + 2,5 = 8,5 see
Points B3 and B4 connect the dotted line, divide this line in half, point dividing the join the dotted line with the point B1. From point B1 on the line lay 1/3 of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 1.3 cm and put a point B5. 
В1В5 = 18 : 3 + 1,3 = 7,3, see 
Point B3, B5, B4 connect a smooth concave line. 

 The center of the chest. From the point G3 to the left in horizontal lines lay the measure of center of the chest (9.5 cm) and put a point G5. From point G5 restore perpendicular to the line Г3Г2 to the intersection with the line В1В2, the point of intersection with this line indicate B6. 

 The protruding point of the breast. From the point B6 down in a vertical line delaying the measure height of the breast (27 cm) and put a point G6. 

 Shoulder cut line tuck. From the point B6 down postpone 1 cm and put a point V7. Points B7 and B3 connect by a straight line. Points B7 and P5 connect the dotted line. From the point P5 to the right along the dotted line lay measure the shoulder length of the segment minus the value of В3В7, minus 0.3 cm and put a point B8. 
П5В8 = 13,5 - 2,5 - 0,3 = 10.7 cm
Point G6 and B8 connect with a straight line, the continuation of which point G6 defer an amount equal to В7Г6 segment and put a point B9. Points B9 and A5 connect with a straight line. 

 The line side of the slice. From the point of G4 is lowered perpendicular to the line of the bottom, the point of intersection with the lines of the waist, hips, step, knee and bottom indicate, respectively, T2, B2, R2, K2, H2. 

 The calculation of the width of the overalls at the hip line. To measure the poluobhvat hips add 3 cm for loose fit. From the obtained value subtracted the width of the Romper received when creating drawings backrest and shelves between points B and B1. The result is distributed between the front and back (53 + 3 = 56 cm; 56 - 53 = 3 cm; 3 : 2 = 1.5 cm). From the point B2 to the left and to the right on the hip line lay at 1.5 cm and dots B3 and B4. From points B3 and B4 hold down the vertical line to the line of the step, the point of intersection with the line of step SH3 and represent Ш4. 

 The side sections of the upper part of the jumpsuit. From the point T2 to the left and right waist lay 2 cm and put points T3 and T4. Points T3 and T4 connect the straight lines with the point G4 and the dotted lines with points B4 and B3. Segments Т3Б4 and Т4Б3 divide in half, from the points of division in the direction of line sides raise up perpendicular to these segments, which lay at 0.5 cm plotting points connect smooth lines with points B3, T4 and B4, T3. 

 The waist line of the front. From point B1 down the midline of the front lay the measure of the length of the front to the waist plus 3 inches and put a point T5. 

 Line side. From points B4 and B1 to the right conduct of a horizontal line, which lay at 2.5 cm, and connect the resulting points with a straight line. 

 Line front the cut of the pants. Line ШШ1 continue to the right. From a point SH1 to the right of this line lay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 0.5 cm and put a point Ш5. 
Ш1Ш5 = 53 : 10 + 0,5 = 5,8 cm
SH1 from point up in a vertical line lay the same distance and put a point Ш6. Point Ш5 and Ш6 connect the dotted line, the dotted line is divided into three equal parts, from the bottom of the dividing point to the left raise a perpendicular, on which lay 0.4 cm Obtained point connect a smooth line with points B1 and Ш5. 

 Fold line front halves of trousers. Cut Ш4Ш5 divided in half, the point of division denote Ш7. Through the point Ш7 spend a vertical line. The point of intersection of this line with the lines of the waist, thigh, knee and bottom indicate, respectively, T6, B5, K3, N3.

 The width of the trousers through the knee. From the point K3 to the left and right on a horizontal line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat knee length plus 2 cm and put points K4 and K5. 
К3К4 = К3К5 = 18 : 2 + 2 = 11, see 
Through the points K4 and K5 hold down vertical dotted line. The point of intersection with the bottom line indicate the N4 and N5. 

 The extension of the pants hem. From the points N4 and N5 to the left and right delay from 2 to 4 cm and put points h6 and H7. 

 Line the bottom of the front halves of trousers. From the point N3 lay up 1 cm and connect the resulting point by straight lines to points h6 and H7. 

 Side cut front halves. Point T4, B3, K4, N6 connect a smooth line. 

 Step cut the front halves. Point Ш5, K5, H7, connect a smooth line. 

 Auxiliary line rear cut. From the point W to the left along a horizontal line delay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 0.8 cm and put a point sh8. 
ШШ8 = 53 : 10 + 0,5 = 5,8 cm 

 fold Line of the rear halves of the pants. Cut Ш8Ш4 divided in half, the point of division denote Ш9. Through the point Ш9 spend a vertical line. The point of intersection of this line with the lines of the waist, thigh, knee and bottom indicate T7, B6, K6, H8. 

 The extension line of the step. From the point sh8 left on a horizontal line delay 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips plus 2cm and put a point Ш10. 
Ш8Ш10 = 53 : 10 + 2 = 7,3 cm 

 Width of trousers through the knee. From the point K6 to the left and right are set aside for 1/2 measure of poluobhvat knee length plus 4 cm and dots K7 and K8. 
К6К7 = К6К8 = 18 : 2 + 4 = 13 see 
Through K7 and K8 carried out with the vertical dashed lines. The point of intersection of these lines with underline denote H9 and H10. 

 The extension of the pants hem. Between points N9 and N10 to the left and right delay from 2 to 4 cm and put points H11 and H12. 

 Line the bottom of the rear halves of the pants. A vertical line Т7Н8 continue downward by 1 cm, the resulting point connect straight lines with points H11 and H12. 

 The side cut of the back half. Point B4, K8 H12 connect a smooth line. 

 Stepper cut back half. Point K7 connect the dotted line with a dot Ш10. From the point K7 up on the dotted line delay value of the segment К5Ш5 (with a drawing of the front), and put a point Ш11. The dotted line between points Ш11 and K7 is divided from the dividing point to the right raise up perpendicular to this line, which postpone 1 cm and put a point 1. Point Ш11, 1, K7, H11 connect a smooth line. 

 3адний slice. Angle Ш10ШТ divide in half, from point W along the line dividing the angle of lay of 1/10 measurements of poluobhvat hips minus 1.5 cm and put a point Ш12. 
ШШ12 = 53 : 10 in 1.5 = 3.8 cm
T point, Ш12, Ш11 connect a smooth concave line. 

 Construction drawing of the pattern sleeve cm one-Piece dress with set-in sleeves.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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