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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

The construction and processing of Darts


 Tuck from the shoulder cut of the back. The position of the Darts relative to the highest point of the neck is determined by the model or features of a Constitution of women. 
For conditionally proportional figures the distance from the highest point of the neck to tuck is 4 - 4.5 cm 
For figures with exposed blades in a tuck move in the direction of the armhole to the middle of the shoulder cut. 
For shapes with the curvature of the back spine tuck moves to the side of the neck or have it.
The length of the Darts 6 - 8 cm depending on the size of the solution. The smaller solution corresponds to the reduced length of the tuck. Tuck is carried out parallel to the middle of the back. 
Finally, the shoulder cut is made at the manufacturing of curves connecting the points A4 and A1 with a straight line when closed tuck.
From the point A4 (Fig. 196) right at the shoulder cut lay 4 cm and put the point O. From point O down hold a vertical line parallel to the middle of the back, which from the point Of lay 6 cm and put the point O1. From a point On the right at the shoulder cut lay the tuck depth of 1.6 - 2 cm and put a point O2. Point O1 connect a straight line with a point O2 and continue the line up. From point O1 on the line О1О2 delay value of the segment OO1 and put a point O3. Point O3 and P1 connect by a straight line.
If the fabric is to fit, a tuck can be made less deep, and the rest of the fabric at the shoulder cut of the back to collect on a string frequent stitches and sucurity. 
Fabric Dacron difficult to sutivanu, so tuck make deeper and a little longer than usual. Grind it so that the line gradually disappeared. Stefanou a tuck on the front side zametyvayut towards the middle of the back and priorivet through wet protohellenic from the back, slack at the end of the tuck sativum.

 Darts at the waist line of the back and shelves. After stitching the Darts on the waist and the back of their zametyvayut towards the middle of the back. To tuck at the waist line better lay the middle of the tuck from the inside you can nadsech, but even better to delay her iron. Darts at the waist shelves zametyvayut towards the middle of the shelves and handled them the same way that tuck in the waist line of the back, then priorivet through wet protohellenic from the inside, satwiwa slack in the ends. 

 Top tuck. Top tuck, if it is aimed from the shoulder cut, zametyvayut to the side of the neck, but it can expand and resuturing on both sides. On the front side, the tuck can be just waste. 
A tuck from the side of the slice zametyvayut towards the bottom. You must ensure that it is not addictive side seam. For this, after the tuck is done, it be washed and ironed and zametyvayut again, closer to the bend, and only then smatyvay and grind off the side cut.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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