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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

The skirt is straight cut with eight Darts for a figure with high hips

The drawing of the pattern for such a skirt (Fig. 106) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat waist  38
Poluobhvat hips  52
Distance from waist to floor front  100
Distance from waist line to floor at the side  102
Distance from waist line to floor rear  100
Distance from floor to bottom edge of skirt  35
Back length to the waist line  38


Take a sheet of paper, equal in length to the skirt length plus 10 cm, in width equal to the poluobhvat hips plus 4 - 5 cm 

 the Width of the skirt. At the bottom of the sheet of paper carried out a horizontal line where lay the cut is equal to the measure of poluobhvat hips plus 2cm for loose fit (52 + 2 = 54 cm) and put the points H and H1 (Fig. 107). 

 Line sides. From the point N to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat hips plus 3 inches and put a point of H2. 
НН2 = 52 : 2 + 3 = 29, see 
Through the points H, H1 and H2 hold a vertical line upwards. 

 The length of the skirt. From the point N up vertical lines lay the measure of the length of the skirt (100 - 35 = 65 cm) and put the point T. From the point H2 upward on a vertical line lay the measure of the length of the skirt from the side (102 - 35 = 67 cm) and put the point T1. From point N1 up vertical lines lay the measure of the length of the skirt (100 - 35 = 65 cm) and put a point T2. 

 The waist line. Points T, T1 and T2 connect the dotted lines. 

 The hips. From point T1 down the line flanks lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through the point B is carried out in a horizontal line. The intersection of this line and TN denote B1, with a line Т2Н - B2. 

 The calculation of the solution tucks at the waist. To determine the value of the solution tucks at the waist to measure the poluobhvat hips add 2cm for loose fit and subtract the measure of poluobhvat waist (52 + 2 - 38 = 16 cm). 
The value of the solution front tuck 0.15 of the total solution tucks (16 x 0.15 = 2.4 cm).
The value of the solution of the two side Darts is 0.55 of the total solution tucks (16 x 0.55 kg = 8.8 cm). The value of one side tuck will be equal to 8,8 : 2 = 4.4 cm 
the Value of the solution back tuck equal to 0.3 of the total solution tucks (16 x 0.3 = 4.8 cm). 

 Side tuck. From the point T1 to the left and to the right along the dotted line lay on the half of the depth of one side tuck and put points T3 and T4. From point B upward along the vertical line 2 cm aside and put the point B3. Point B3 is connected to the points T3 and T4 slightly concave lines. 

 Tuck front cloth. The dotted line between points T4 and T2 divided in half, through the point of division conduct a vertical line, on which lay a segment of length 12 - 14 cm and put a point T5. From the dividing point to the left and to the right along the dotted line lay on the half depth front tuck and put points T6 and T7. Points T6 and T7 connect slightly concave lines with the point T5. 

 Tuck back the cloth. From the point T to the right along the dotted line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat hips minus 2 cm and put the point T8 (52 : 4 - 2 = 11 cm). Through the point T8 is carried out a vertical line to the line BB1. The point of intersection with the line of the hips denote B4. From the point B4 up on a vertical line lay 2 cm and put a point B5. From the point T8 to the left and to the right along the dotted line lay on the half of the depth of the back Darts and dots T9 and T10. Points T9 and T10 connect slightly concave line with point B5. 

 The second side tuck. The distance between the points T10 and T3 halve, through the point of division conduct a vertical line, the intersection of this line with the line of the hips indicate B6. From the point B6 up on a vertical line 2 cm aside and put the point B7. From the dividing point to the left and to the right along the dotted line lay on the half of the depth of the second side tuck and dot T11 and T12. Points T11 and T12 is connected to point B7 slightly concave lines.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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