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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

The skirt is straight cut with eight Darts for a figure with prominent abdomen


The drawing of the pattern for such a skirt (Fig. 104) must be removed following measurements (in cm):
 

Poluobhvat waist  40
Poluobhvat hips  52
Distance from waist to floor front  103
Distance from waist line to floor at the side  101
Distance from waist line to floor rear  100
Distance from floor to bottom edge of skirt  35
Back length to the waist line  38


 The width of the skirt. At the bottom of the sheet of paper carried out a horizontal line on which the delay period equal to the measure of poluobhvat hips plus 2cm for loose fit, and put the points N and N1 (52 + 2 = 54 cm). Through the points H and H1 hold up the vertical line (Fig. 105). 

 Line sides. From the point N to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat hips and put a point of H2. 
НН2 = 52 : 2 = 26, see 
point D2 up spend a vertical line. 

 The Length Of The Skirt. From the point N up vertical lines lay the measure of the length of the skirt (100 - 35 = 65 cm) and put the point T. From the point H2 upward on a vertical line lay the measure of the length of the side skirt (101 - 35 = 66 cm) and put the point T1. From point N1 up vertical lines lay the measure of the length of the skirt (103-35=68 cm) and put a point T2. 

 The waist line. Points T, T1 and T2 connect the dotted lines. 

 The hips. From point T1 down the line flanks lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through the point B is carried out in a horizontal line. The intersection of this line and TN denote B1, with a line Н1Т2 - B2. 

 The calculation of the solution tucks at the waist. To determine the value of the solution tucks at the waist to measure the poluobhvat hips add 2cm for loose fit and subtract the measure of poluobhvat waist (52 + 2 - 40 = 14 cm).
The value of the solution of the two front Darts equal to 0.25 of the total solution tucks (14 x 0.25 = 3.5 cm) and the value of the solution front tuck side equal to 2 cm 
the size of the solution side tuck equal to 0.4 of the total solution tucks (14 x 0.4 = 5.6 cm).
The amount of solution back tuck of 0.35 of the total solution tucks (14 x 0.35 = 4.9 cm). 

 Side tuck. From the point T1 to the left and to the right along the dotted line, lay on the half of the depth of the side tucks and put points T3 and T4. The resulting points are linked by dotted lines with the point B. the dotted lines Divide in half, from the points of division inside the tuck raise perpendiculars, on which lay 0.5 cm, then a smooth line connecting the points obtained with the points T3, and T4 B, B. 

 Tuck front cloth. The dotted line between points T4 and T2 divided in half, the breaking point denoted T5. From point T5 vertically up delay 0,5 - 0,7 cm and put a point T6. Point T6 connect a smooth line with points T4 and T2. From the point Tawnys spend a vertical dotted line, length 8 - 10 cm and put a point T7. From the point T6 to the left and right of the line lay at 0.75 cm and put points T8 and T9. Points T8 and T9 is connected to the point of T7 slightly concave lines.To construct a second tuck distance between points T8 and T4, divide in half, from the points of division is carried down the vertical line length 7 - 9 cm and put a point T10. From the point dividing the left and right waist postpone 1 cm and put points T11 and T12. Points T11 and T12 is connected to the point T10 smooth slightly concave lines.

 Tuck back the cloth. The dotted line between points T3 and T divide in half, through the point of division conduct a vertical line to the intersection with the line Б1Б2, the point of intersection denote B3. From the point B3 on the vertical up line lay 2 cm and put a point B4. From the point of division of left and right lay on the half of the depth of the back Darts and put points T13 and T14. Points T13 and T14 is connected to the point B4 is slightly concave lines. 

 Note. If the difference between the poluobhvat hips with the addition of 2 cm for loose fit and poluobhvat waist is larger than 16 cm, skirt is recommended to do ten tucks, ie instead of one of the back Darts, to do two.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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