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Home » Articles » Cutting and sewing of women clothes

The skirt is straight cut with eight Darts for a figure with prominent buttocks

The drawing of the pattern for such a skirt (Fig. 100) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

Poluobhvat waist  36
Poluobhvat hips  52
Distance from waist to floor front  100
Distance from waist line to floor at the side  101
Distance from waist line to floor rear  101
Distance from floor to bottom edge of skirt  35
Back length to the waist line  38


Take a sheet of paper, equal in length to the length of the skirt plus 10 - 12 cm, width equal to poluobhvat hips plus 4 - 5 cm 

 the Width of the skirt. At the bottom of the sheet of paper carried out a horizontal line where lay the cut is equal to the measure of poluobhvat hips plus 2cm for loose fit, and put the points N and N1 (52 + 2 = 54 cm). Through the points N and N1 hold the vertical line up (Fig. 101).

 Line sides. From the point N to the right on a horizontal line lay 1/2 scoops of poluobhvat hips plus 2cm and put a point of H2. 
НН2 = 52 : 2 + 2 = 28 cm 
Through the point H2 is carried up the vertical line. 

 The length of the skirt. From the point N up vertical lines lay the measure of the length of the skirt (101 - 35 = 66 cm). From the point H2 upward on a vertical line lay the measure of the length of the side skirt (101 - 35 = 66 cm). From point N1 up vertical lines lay the measure of the length of the skirt (100 - 35 = 65 cm) and put the points T, T1 and T2. 

 The waist line. Points T, T1 and T2 connect the dotted lines. 

 The hips. From point T1 down the line flanks lay 1/2 measurements the length of the back to the waist line and put a point B (38 : 2 = 19 cm). Through the point B is carried out in a horizontal line. The intersection of this line and TN denote B1, with a line Т2Н1 - B2. 

 The calculation of the solution tucks at the waist. To determine the value of the solution tucks at the waist to measure the poluobhvat hips add 2 cm, and then subtract the measure of poluobhvat waist (52 + 2 - 36 = 18 cm). 
The value of the solution front tuck 0.15 of the total solution tucks (18 x 0.15 = 2.7 cm).
The value of the solution side tuck of 0.35 of the total solution tucks (18 x 0.35 = 6.3 cm). 
The value of the solution of the two rear Darts equal to 0.5 of the total solution tucks (18 x 0.5 = 9 cm). The amount of solution back tuck will be 9 : 2 = 4.5 cm 

 Lateral tuck. From the point T1 to the left along the dotted line lay half the depth of the side tuck minus 0.5 cm and put a point T3 (6,3 : 2 - 0,5 = 2,65 cm). 
From the point T1 to the right along the dotted line lay half the depth of the side tuck plus 0.5 cm and put a point T4 (6,3 : 2 + 0,5 = 3,65 cm).
Points T3 and T4 connect the dotted lines with the point B, cuts Т3Б and Т4Б divide in half, from the points of division inside tuck restore the perpendiculars to these segments, which lay at 0.5 cm Then the resulting points connect smooth lines with points T3 and T4 B, B. 

 Tuck front cloth. The dotted line between points T4 and T2 divided in half, through the point of division of the hold auxiliary vertical line, which lay 12 - 14 cm and put a point T5. From the dividing point to the left and to the right along the dotted line lay on the half depth front tuck and put points T6 and T7. Points T6 and T7 connect slightly concave lines with the point T5. Then the dotted lines on either side of the tuck encircle a solid line. 

 Tuck back the cloth. From the point T to the right along the dotted line lay 1/4 measurements of poluobhvat hips minus 2 cm and put the point T8 (52 : 4 - 2 = 11 cm). Through the point T8 conduct auxiliary vertical line to the line BB1, the point of intersection denote B3. From the point B3 on the vertical up line lay 2 cm and put a point B4. 
From the point T8 to the left and to the right along the dotted line lay on one half of the depth of the back Darts and dots T9 and T10. Points T9 and T10 is connected to the point of B4 slightly concave lines.
To build the second rear tuck distance between the points T10 and T3 is divided, from the point of division of left and right lay on the half of the depth of the second rear tuck and dot T11 and T12. 
Through the point of division of the auxiliary hold down the vertical line to the line BB1, the point of intersection represent B5. From the point B5 up on a vertical line lay 2 cm and put a point B6. 
Points T11 and T12 is connected to the point B6 slightly concave lines.



Category: Cutting and sewing of women clothes | Added by: 18.10.2017
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